TEXTILE  TEXTS. 


TEXTILE  TEXTS 


FOR 


COTTON  MANUFACTURERS, 

INGLUDING   SPECIAL  ARTICLES  ON 

CARDING,  SPINNING,  SPOOLING, 
WARPING,  DYEING,  REELING, 

TWISTING  AND  WEAVING 

ALSO 

GENERRL  '  HISTORY, r'  MATHEMflir?Gfl^  TABLES, 
PATENTED     COTTON  MACHINERY 

INTRODUCED  AND  SOLD  BY 

DRAPER  COMPANY. 


HOPEDALE,  MASS.,  U.  S.  A., 
1917. 


Copyright,  1887,  by  GeoPwGE  Draper  &  Sons. 
Copyright,  1889,  by  George  Draper  &  Sons. 
Copyright,  1892,  by  George  Draper  &  Sons. 
Copyright,  1896,  by  George  Draper  &  Sons. 
Copyright,  1901,  by  Draper  Company. 
Copyright,  1903,  by  Draper  Company. 
Copyright,  1907,  by  Draper  Company. 
Copyright,  1917,  by  Draper  Corporation. 


PRINTED  BY 

"MILFORD  journal  COMPANY 
MiLFORD,  Mass. 
itit  GEH  r  CEl%iTER 
-  LIBRARY 


TO   OUR  CUSTOMERS, 

The  Cotton  Manufacturers  of  the  United  States, 

WHOSE  ENTERPRISE  IN 

TESTING     AND     ADOPTING     VALUABLE     IMPROVEMENTS  IN 
MACHINERY     HAS    STIMULATED    THE    DEVELOPMENT  OF 
IMPORTANT    INVENTIONS,     THUS    IMPROVING  THE 
QUiM.ITy    AND  DIMINISHING  THE  ,pdi2T 
OF    THE    FABRICS  PRODUCED, 

THIS,    OUR    TWELFTH   DESCRIPTIVZ  CATALOGUE, 
IS  RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED. 


INTRODUCTORY. 


Plan  View  of  Our  Works,  1913. 

The  various  buildings  shown,  including  their  several 
stories,  contain  over  thirty-three  acres  of  floor  space. 


INTRODUCTORY, 


9 


PREFACE. 

1^  T  is  our  purpose  to  make  this  book  a  compendium 
of  useful  information  for  everyone  connected  with 
the  manufacture  of  cotton  cloth  or  yarns.  While  some 
of  our  specialties  are  applicable  to  woolen,  worsted 
and  silk  manufacture,  we  feel  that  the  cotton  mill  is 
our  legitimate  field  and  broad  enough  to  require 
the  greater  part  of  our  time.  In  connection  with 
the  general  information  furnished,  we  introduce 
descriptions  of  our  machinery,  and  rules  and  tables  of 
interest  to  the  practical  manufacturer.  These  tables 
in  many  cases  are  merely  the  results  of  mathematics 
and  formulae  and  have  been  published  by  us  before. 
Others  are  figured  from  actual  results  gathered  from 
hundreds  of  mills,  and  properly  averaged.  The  latter 
are  of  great  practical  value.  In  this  present  edition, 
new  tables  are  presented  whenever  the  conditions  have 
made  such  change  necessary. 

This  book  is  copyrighted,  and  we  hope  to  see 
that  copyright  respected.  We  expect  to  issue  a 
sufficient  number  of  copies  so  that  all  men  occupying 
responsible  positions  in  Cotton  Mills  may  have  them  on 
request. 

DRAPER  COMPANY. 


10 


INTRODUCTORY. 


LOCATION  OF  HOPEDALE. 


INTRODUCTORY, 


11 


LOCATION  OF  HOPED  Am. 

Hopedale  is  located  in  a  triangle  formed  by  lines 
connecting  Boston,  Worcester  and  Providence.  It  is  34  miles 
from  Boston,  18  miles  from  Worcester  and  26  miles  from 
Providence. 

To  reach  Hopedale  from  Boston,  take  the  Boston  & 
Albany  division  of  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  via  South  Framingham 
to  Milford,  Mass.,  our  adjoining  town;  thence  by  carriage  or 
electric  cars  to  Hopedale,  1 1-2  miles;  or  Boston  and  Worcester 
trolley  line  to  South  Framingham,  22  miles,  and  trolley,  from 
South  Framingham  to  Hopedale,  13  1-2  miles;  or  Boston  & 
Albany  line  to  South  Framingham  and  trolley  to  Hopedale; 
there  are  also  several  trains  per  day  from  Boston  to  Milford 
via  Ashland  and  Hopkinton;  also  another  line  via  Franklin 
to  Milford. 

From  Worcester  take  either  Boston  &  Albany  train  or 
trolley  to  North  Grafton,  6  miles,  thence  change  to  trolley 
line  through  Upton  to  Hopedale,  12  miles. 

From  Providence  take  Providence  &  Worcester  division 
of  N.  Y.,  N.  H.  &  Hartford  R.  R.  to  Uxbridge,  Mass.,  25 
miles,  thence  trolley  to  Hopedale,  7  miles.  Or,  Providence  & 
Worcester  R.  R.  to  Woonsocket,  R.  I.,  16  miles,  thence  by 
trolley  to  Milford,  Mass.,  12  miles,  changing  at  Milford  for 
Hopedale.  Or,  trolley  from  Providence  to  Woonsocket, 
connecting  with  trolley  line  at  Woonsocket  for  Milford,  as 
above. 

We  have  had  this  map  prepared,  in  view  of  frequent 
requests  for  information  as  to  where  Hopedale  is  situated 
and  how  to  reach  it. 

We  extend  a  cordial  invitation  to  our  readers  to  call  and 
see  us. 

TELEPHONE  AND  TELEGRAPH, 
We  can  be  reached  by  either  the  Western  Union  or 
Postal  Telegraph  Company  and  by  the  New  England  Telephone 
and  Telegraph  Company. 


12 


HISTORY. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURE. 

The  Textile  Art  is  one  of  the  oldest  arts  known  to 
mankind.  It  ministers  to  one  of  his  primal  needs,  and  many  a 
pictorial  remnant  of  civilization  that  existed  at  the  dawn  of 
history  bears  on  its  face  some  evidence  of  the  art  of  making 
cloth.  This  art  very  early  reached  a  stage  of  development 
both  as  to  the  texture,  the  material  used,  the  beauty,  and 
utility  of  the  finished  product,  that  would  compare  favorably 
with  the  best  products  of  today.  The  silks  of  ancient  China, 
the  hand  woven  Persian  rugs,  and  the  tapestries  of  the 
middle  ages  are  unrivalled.  The  manufacturer  of  today  has 
discovered  no  new  product  in  this  art. 

The  modern  world,  however,  beginning  in  the  middle  of 
the  eighteenth  century,  and  continuing  to  the  present  day, 
has  brought  about  ever  improving  results  in  the  processes  of 
producing  textile  fabrics.  Modern  civilization  has  made 
two  demands  upon  the  textile  industry;  it  has  required  larger 
and  larger  quantities  of  material  for  old  demands  and  it  has 
created  a  constantly  increasing  diversity  of  new  demands. 
These  requirements  have  been  partly  cared  for  by  more  and 
more  producing  elements  and  partly  by  greater  and  greater 
efficiency  of  those  elements.  The  spinning  wheel  has  been 
replaced  by  the  modern  high  speed  spindle,  and  the  hand  loom 
by  the  power  loom,  and  this  in  turn  has  given  way  to  the 
automatic  loom.  The  product  per  operative  has  been 
increased  a  number  of  thousand  times,  while  the  result 
attained  has  been  very  little  changed.  The  evolution  in  the 
Textile  Art  has  enabled  the  value  of  a  single  unit  in  the 
textile  working  world  to  be  the  productive  equal  of  several 
thousand  of  his  predecessors  of  three  hundred  years  ago. 
This  capacity  of  one  to  do  the  work  of  several  thousand 
leaves  the  several  thousand  free  to  do  other  work 
in  supplying  the  requirements  of  modern  society.  The 
evolution  of  the  industry  has  been  in  the  means  and  not  the 
end  of  the  art.  The  product  as  a  product  has  remained  the 
same,  while  the  means  to  bring  about  the  result  have 
undergone  tremendous  developments.  The  unceasing  effort 
of  the  textile  manufacturer  is  to  increase  the  product  per 
wage  earner  without  sacrificing  the  quality  of  the  product. 
A  very  large  amount  of  the  cloth  today  could  not  be 
distinguished  from  the  product  of  1700.  The  industry  of 
1700,  however,  with  its  now  discarded  methods,  would  have 
needed  the  labor  of  the  entire  country  to  equal  the  product  of 
one  of  our  large  mills  of  the  present  type. 


HISTORY, 


13 


The  most  important  division  of  the  textile  art  in  capital 
involved,  number  of  wage-earners  and  volume  and  value 
of  product  is  cotton  manufacturing.  The  field  of 
activity  of  the  Draper  Company  has  been  in  the  main 
confined  to  this  division  and  its  efforts  have  been  devoted  to 
the  advancement  of  this  art.  There  are  a  large  number  of 
our  machines  doing  service  in  worsted  and  woolen  mills  where 
the  processes  of  manufacture  in  these  materials  parallel  the 
cotton  processes  which  our  machines  perform.  Within  the 
limits  of  our  chosen  field  our  history  has  been  intimately 
connected  with  and  dependent  upon  the  advances  made  here. 
The  Butcher  Temple,  the  Bartlett  let-off,  the  Stearns  pick 
motion,  the  Sawyer  and  Rabbeth  Spindles,  the  Carroll  ring 
and  the  Northrop  Loom,  all  marking  distinct  advances  over 
prior  devices,  have  all  been  brought  out  and  introduced  by  us. 

Beginning  in  1816,  nearly  one  hundred  years  ago,  in  the 
early  and  struggling  days  of  the  cotton  industry  in  the  United 
States,  we  find  Ira  Draper 
working  on  improvements  in 
the  art  of  making  cotton  cloth. 
Ira  Draper,  son  of  Abijah 
Draper,  an  officer  of  the  war  of 
independence,  was  born  in 
Dedham,  December  29th,  1764. 
He  moved  to  Weston,  Mass., 
in  1808,  where  he  spent  the 
rest  of  his  life.  He  was  of  an 
inventive  turn  of  mind,  taking 
out  a  number  of  patents,  but 
devoting  his  main  attention  to 
the  textile  industry.  In  1816 
he  took  out  his  first  loom  and 
loom  temple  patent,  which,  as 

was  the  custom  at  that  time,  jj^^  Draper. 

covered    several  distinct 

improvements,  the  most  important  of  which  was  the  loom 
temple.  This  patent  showed  a  temple  of  the  so-called  star 
wheel  type,  having  a  row  of  pins  or  teeth  in  it,  which  held 
the  cloth,  and  was  mounted  on  the  breast  beam  so  that  it  was 
largely  self-acting.  The  temples  in  use  up  to  this  time  had 
been  of  the  stretcher  type,  made  of  two  pieces  of  wood  with 
teeth  in  the  opposing  ends,  which  were  inserted  in  the  cloth 
by  the  weaver,  and  which  had  to  be  taken  off  and  re-adjusted 
as  often  as  the  temples  travelled  a  short  distance  from  the 
fell  of  the  cloth.  Ira  Draper  was  the  pioneer  in  recognizing 
the  need  of  such  an  improvement  and  put  into  operation  the 


14 


HISTORY, 


first  rotary  temple.  This  improvement  was  a  very  important 
one,  as  it  enabled  a  weaver  to  double  the  number  of  looms 
that  he  could  run.  The  business  of  introducing  these 
improved  loom  temples  was  carried  on  by  Ira  Draper  from 
Weston,  Mass.,  for  about  fifteen  years.    On  the  first  of  April, 

1829,  he  took  out  another  patent  on  loom  temples,  covering  an 
improvement  in  the  mounting  of  his  early  device. 

In  1830  Ira  Draper  sold  these  two  patents  to  his  eldest 
son,  James  Draper,  who  at 
once  undertook  to  put  them  ^ 
on  the  market  and  bring  them 
to  the  attention  of  the  cotton 
manufacturers  of  that  time. 
In  the  first  number  of  the 
first  volume  of  the  Boston 
Transcript  published  July  24, 

1830,  there  appears  an 
advertisement  of  James 
Draper,  bringing  these  temples 
to  the  attention  of  the  textile 
trade.  He  continued  the 
business  until  March,  1837, 
when  he  took  into  partnership 
his  half  brother,  E.  D.  Draper, 
who  assumed  the  real  control 
of  the  business. 

In  1842  E.  D.  Draper  moved 
to  Hopedale,  Mass.,  becoming 
a  member  of  the  Hopedale 
Community  established  by  the 
Rev.  Adin  Ballou;  and  in  1853 
George  Draper  moved  to 
Hopedale,  joining  with  his 
brother  and  forming  the 
partnership  of  E.  D.  & 
G.  Draper  to  sell  loom  temples 
and  other  improvements  in 
cotton  machinery. 

George  Draper  was  born 
in  Weston,  Mass.,  August  16, 
1817,  and  died  June  7,  1887. 
He  started  early  in  life  in  a 
cotton  mill,  getting  practical 
experience  which  proved  to  be 
so  valuable  to  him  later  in  his  great  work  of  cheapening  the 
processes  and  bettering  the  products  of  cotton  machinery. 


E.  D.  Draper. 


George  Draper, 


HISTORY, 


15 


He  started  at  14  years  of  age  at  North  Uxbridge,  and 
afterwards  became  manager  of  the  Union  Mill  at  Walpole, 
and  left  there  to  become  overseer  of  weaving  at  Three 
Rivers.  He  then  made  his  first  venture  of  introducing 
patented  improvements  in  cotton  machinery.  In  1837  he 
found  a  position  as  operative  in  the  Massachusetts  Cotton 
Mills  at  Lowell.  He  next  was  put  in  charge  of  the 
fancy  weaving  at  the  Harris  Woolen  Company  Mills  of 
Woonsocket,  R.  I.,  and  later  became  Superintendent  of  a 
mill  of  the  Otis  Company  at  Ware,  Mass.,  and  then 
Superintendent  of  all  their  mills.  On  October  28,  1840,  and 
again  February  21,  1842,  he  took  out  patents  which  embodied 
i  mprovements  on  the  same  type  of  temple  which  Ira  Draper 
had  originally  invented  in  1816. 

Meantime  Elihu  and  Warren  W.  Butcher  of  North 
Bennington,  Vermont,  had  taken  out  two  patents  on  an 
entirely  new  type  of  loom  temple;  one  patent  dated 
December  18,  1851,  and  the 
other  and  more  important  of 
the  two  December  28,  1852. 
These  were  the  first  temples 
provided  with  cyhndrical 
rolls;  the  temples  were  so 
constructed  as  to  be 
reciprocated  by  the  lay  in  the 
process  of  weaving.  In  this 
way  they  were  able  to  hold  the 
cloth  much  nearer  the  last  pick 
than  any  prior  temples.  The 
appearance  in  the  field  of  a 
formidable  rival  that  bade  fair 
to  be  a  serious  competitor  in 
the  temple  business,  led  to  the 
purchase  by  E.  D.  &  G.  Draper 
in  1854  of  Elihu  Dutcher's 
interest  in  the  temple  patents  and  business  and  the  firm  of 
W.  W.  Dutcher  &  Company,  comprising  W.  W.  Dutcher, 
E.  D.  and  G.  Draper,  was  formed  to  manufacture  this  type  of 
loom  temples.  The  temples  were  manufactured  in  North 
Bennington,  Vermont,  until  May  1856,  when  Mr.  Dutcher 
moved  to  Hopedale;  the  firm  of  E.  D.  &  G.  Draper  had  the 
agency  for  the  sale  of  these  temples  to  the  mills.  Mr. 
Dutcher  was  an  able  inventor,  taking  out  over  twenty 
patents,  mostly  on  temples  and  machines  for  making 
temples.  A  line  of  machines  for  setting  temple  teeth 
invented  by   him  is   at  present  in  use.    They  are  today 


W.  W.  Dutcher. 


16 


HISTORY. 


doing  service,  and  are  unduplicated  and  unrivalled.  The 
importance  of  these  inventions  is  best  shown  by  the  fact  that 
this  business  has  continued  the  temple  manufacture  of  the 
United  States,  without  any  departure  from  the  basic 
principle  of  the  original  patents. 

In  1856  the  Hopedale  Community,  which  had  been  in 
existence  for  some  14  years,  had  become  involved  in  financial 
difficulties,  and  E.  D.  &  G.  Draper  assumed  its  debts  and 
assets;  about  this  time  a  brother-in-law  of  the  Drapers, 
Joseph  B.  Bancroft,  who  had  come  to  Hopedale  in  1847, 


Joseph  B.  Bancroft.  ^^^^^^^^  Hopedale 


job  castings  for  the  general  outside  pubMc.  In  1867 
corporations  were  formed  to  take  over  the  three  partnerships; 
the  Dutcher  Temple  Company  succeeded  the  firm  of  W.  W. 
Dutcher  &  Company;  the  partnership  of  the  Hopedale 
Machine  Company  was  incorporated  under  the  same  name, 
and  the  Hopedale  Furnace  Company  as  a  corporation 
succeeded  the  Hopedale  Furnace  Company  as  a  partnership. 

Early  in  1868  E.  D.  Draper  disposed  of  his  interest  in 
the  firm  of  E.  D.  &  G.  Draper,  and  moved  to  Boston; 
in  that  same  year  the  firm  of  George  Draper  and  Son 
was  formed,  by  George  Draper  taking  in  his  eldest  son, 
William  F.  Draper.  The  firm  name  was  changed  in  1876  to 
George  Draper  &  Sons  when  George  A.  Draper,  another  son, 
was  admitted  as  a  member;  in  1880,  Eben  S,  Draper,  a  third 
son,  was  admitted  to  the  firm;  and  in  1887  and  1889  William 
F.  Draper,  Jr.  and  George  Otis  Draper,  sons  of  William  F. 
Draper,  were  admitted  to  the  partnership  of  George  Draper 
&  Sons. 


joined  with  the  two  Drapers  in 
a  partnership  known  as  the 
Hopedale  Machine  Company  to 
manufacture  improvements  in 
cotton  machinery.  At  the 
time  of  the  removal  of  the 
Dutcher  temple  business  to 
Hopedale  a  local  foundry 
became  necessary  to  make  the 
high  grade  castings  needed  for 
temples  and  other  machinery 
manufactured  by  the  Hopedale 
Machine  Company,  so  the 
Hopedale  Furnace  Company 
was  formed  as  a  partnership  in 
1856.    This  company  made  all 


interests,  as  well  as  making 


HISTORY. 


17 


William  F.  Draper  resigned  his  active  position  with  the 
company  July  1,  1907,  and  died  January  28,  1910.  During  his 
connection  with  the  business 


he  filled  many  important 
positions.  For  a  long  time 
he  had  charge  of  the  finances; 
later  he  conducted  the 
experimental  department 
devoted  to  the  perfecting  of 
new  devices;  also  including 
patents  and  patent  litigation; 
for  several  years  he  was 
the  practical  head  of  the 
organization  and  much  of  its 
success  was  due  to  his  ability 
and  untiring  efforts. 

The  business  from  1853, 
when  George  Draper  came  to 


Hopedale  until  his  death  in 

1887,  can  be  roughly  divided        William  F.  Draper. 
into  two  parts,  the  period  up 

to  1870  and  the  period  from  1870  to  1887.  In  the  early 
period  the  largest  share  of  the  business  in  addition  to 
temples  was  in  improvements  of  different  motions  on 
looms  for  plain  weaving.  During  this  time  the  Bartlett, 
Shepard  and  Young  let-offs  and  the  Stearns  shuttle  motion 
were  introduced  and  adopted  by  a  large  share  of  the 
mills.  The  Stearns  shuttle  motion  was  the  successful 
development  of  which  the  patent  of  1846  to  W.  W.  Dutcher 
was  the  pioneer  in  breaking  away  from  the  overhead  pick 
motion,  and  is  now  in  universal  use  in  this  country  in  a 
modified  form.  A  large  business  was  also  done  in  shuttle 
guards,  thick  and  thin  place  preventors,  and  other  loom 
improvements. 

Beginning  about  1870  came  the  tremendous  improvements 
in  the  spinning  room,  with  the  Sawyer  and  later  the  Rabbeth 
spindle  and  Carroll  double  spinning  ring.  These  inventions 
have  practically  driven  mule  spinning  from  America,  except 
on  the  very  finest  niimbers.  The  cheapening  of  the  process 
of  spinning  by  these  inventions  has  been  tremendous,  and  the 
amount  saved  in  the  manufacture  of  yarns  will  run  into  the 
hundreds  of  millions  of  dollars. 

In  the  late  80's  and  early  90's  the  members  of  George 
Draper  &  Sons  again  turned  their  attention  to  the  weave 
room  and  began  a  line  of  very  extensive  and  expensive 
experiments  on  automatic  looms,  which  resulted  in  1894  in 


18 


HISTORY. 


introducing  to  the  cotton  manufacturers  of  this  country  the 
Northrop  Loom.  The  experiments  had  assumed  such  shape 
in  1892  that  the  Northrop  Loom  Company  was  organized, 
but  it  was  not  until  1894  that  the  loom  was  placed  before  the 
textile  trade  in  a  commercial  way. 

In  December  1896  the  present  Draper  Company  was 
organized  under  the  laws  of  Maine,  taking  over  the  property 
and  business  of  the  Hopedale  Machine  Company,  the 
Hopedale  Machine  Screw  Company,  the  Dutcher  Temple 
Company,  the  firm  of  George  Draper  &  Sons,  and  the  United 
States  patents  and  business  of  the  Northrop  Loom  Company. 
Prior  to  this  time  the  Hopedale  Furnace  Company  and  the 
Hopedale  Elastic  Goods  Company  had  both  been  absorbed  by 
the  Hopedale  Machine  Company,  This  united  and  brought 
under  one  corporate  body  all  the  Hopedale  interests,  and 
since  January  1,  1897  all  this  business  has  been  done  by  the 
Draper  Company, 

The  Draper  Company  thus  from  its  earliest  antecedents 
has  been  at  work  on  improving  and  introducing  patented 
improvements  on  existing  devices  and  machines.  The  patent 
law  with  its  term  of  seventeen  years  monopoly  is  very 
inadequate  protection  in  a  finished  art  or  where  the  holder  of 
the  patent  is  unwilling  or  unable  to  continue  his  control  of 
his  chosen  field  by  constant  efforts  at  improvement.  We  try 
to  keep  seventeen  years  ahead  of  the  open  art  by  a  steady 
effort  to  improve  our  product,  cheapen  its  cost  of  manufacture 
and  simplify  its  component  parts,  Hundreds  of  thousands  of 
dollars  and  constant  attention  to  all  possible  improvements, 
coupled  with  a  willingness  and  readiness  to  recognize  and 
adopt  any  improvement  that  will  tend  to  benefit  the 
manufacturer  have  been  the  factors  that  have  kept  our 
machines  far  ahead  of  anything  procurable  in  the  market  to 
accomplish  similar  results,  We  are  as  interested  today  in 
inventions  in  our  line  as  we  ever  have  been  in  the  past.  We 
are  anxious  to  see  any  device  invented  for  use  on  our 
machines.  A  number  of  our  most  important  improvements 
have  been  invented  outside  our  works  and  we  hope  to 
continue  to  have  opportunities  to  purchase  new  ideas  in  our 
line.  Practical  men  in  the  mills,  dealing  with  practical 
problems  that  confront  them  in  their  regular  work,  meet 
these  problems,  study  them,  and  overcome  them,  and  such 
solutions  are  always  interesting,  often  ingenious  and 
sometimes  new  and  patentable.  When  in  our  line,  we  are 
always  interested  in  such  solutions  and  ready  to  examine  and 
report  to  inventors  on  these  devices. 


HISTORY, 


19 


A  new  device  should  be  useful  and  patentable  to  be  of 
value,  A  useful  device  is  one  that  either  cheapens  the  cost 
of  production  without  lowering  the  quality,  or  one  that 
betters  the  quality  without  increasing  the  cost  of  production, 
or  both.  Of  course  the  device  of  greatest  value  is  one  that 
results  in  cheapening  the  product  to  the  manufacturer  so  that 
his  cloth  costs  him  less  per  yard  or  his  yarn  less  per  pound. 
If  the  saving  in  this  way  is  large  the  actual  cost  of 
manufacture  of  the  new  idea  is  relatively  unimportant,  for 
the  manufacturer  is  buying  a  result  rather  than  a  machine. 
Now  granting  the  result  to  be  new  and  useful,  and  thus 
patentable,  to  be  of  real  value  it  should  be  so  novel  that  the 
patent  issued  be  a  broad  patent.  An  idea  that  is  of  the 
greatest  use,  that  saves  the  manufacturer  great  sums  of 
money  each  year,  has  little  salable  value  without  broad 
patent  protection.  The  Company  taking  hold  of  an  idea  of 
this  sort,  introducing  and  perfecting  it,  pushing  it  through 
its  sales  force  and  by  advertising,  only  ends  with  the 
disadvantage,  when  the  device  is  firmly  established  in  the 
market,  of  having  this  heavy  initial  expense  as  a  handicap 
in  competing  with  manufacturers  in  the  same  line  of 
machines  in  an  open  market,  A  device  then  must  be  capable 
of  adequate  patent  protection  to  be  of  salable  value  to 
the  machinery  manufacturer  even  granting  its  producing 
value  to  a  mill  organization.  These  are  the  inventions  that 
command  large  prices  and  make  fortunes  for  inventor  and 
machine  builder  alike;  these  inventions  are  relatively  rare. 

Soon  after  the  invention  and  during  the  early  days  of  the 
introduction  of  some  real  improvement,  there  springs  up  a 
number  of  alternate  ways  to  accomplish  the  new  result. 
These  ways  are  patentable  over  the  original  way,  but  the 
result  being  the  same  may  be  covered  by  the  claims  of  the 
prior  patent.  They  are  of  no  interest  except  to  the  holder 
of  the  early  patent,  and  only  of  interest  to  him  where  they 
suggest  improvements  in  design  or  cheapness  of  manufacture, 
where  they  are  purchased  to  strengthen  the  position  of  the 
broad  patent,  or  where  they  cover  an  improved  construction 
when  the  main  patent  expires. 

The  great  majority  of  ideas  that  are  submitted  yearly  for 
our  examination  and  to  report  on  never  reach  the  Patent 
Office.  A  few  are  so  impractical  and  unmechanical  that  they 
are  of  no  value,  but  the  rest  of  the  ideas  are  so  practical  and 
so  good  that  they  have  been  incorporated  into  the  claims  of 
patents  already  issued  to  other  inventors.  Sometimes  a 
number  of  inventors  hit  upon  a  similar  solution  of  a  difficulty 
which  in  the  nature  of  the  goods  produced  has  arisen  in 


20  HISTORY, 

several  mills  hundreds  of  miles  apart  and  the  controlling 
factor  in  a  case  like  this  is  priority  of  invention. 

During  the  period  of  our  business  relations  with  the 
textile  trade,  manufacturers  have  tried  and  adopted  a  large 
number  of  our  textile  improvements.  These  improvements 
sold  by  us  have  never  cost  a  single  mill  a  single  cent  in  the 
way  of  royalty  to  other  parties,  or  in  the  way  of  defending 
patents  suits.  A  device  bought  from  us  has  brought  with  it 
complete  protection  from  the  expenditure  of  time  and  money 
on  patent  litigation.  Coupled  with  this  immunity  from 
patent  prosecution  we  can  conservatively  state  that  we  have 
cut  in  half  the  cost  of  spinning,  spooling  and  weaving. 


INTERESTING  DATES  IN 
COTTON  MACHINERY  HISTORY, 

The  following  table  of  the  dates  of  important  inventions 
or  events  that  are  of  interest  in  the  history  of  cotton 
manufacturing  runs  down  to  1870.  The  patents  mentioned 
in  the  table  up  to  1790  are  all  English  patents  and  after  that 
date  are  nearly  all  American  patents;  the  few  foreign 
inventions  after  1790  are  specifically  indicated. 


1730— First  cotton  yarn  spun  in  England  by  machinery  by 
Wyatt. 

1733— English  patent  granted  John  Kay  for  the  invention  of 
the  fly  shuttle. 

1738— Patent  granted  Lewis  Paul  for  the  spinning  machinery 

supposed  to  have  been  invented  by  John  Wyatt. 
1742— First  mill  for  spinning  cotton  built  at  Birmingham; 

moved  by  asses;  not  successful. 
1748— Patent  on  a  cylinder  card  as  first  used  by  hand,  granted 

Lewis  Paul. 
1750— Fly  shuttle  in  general  use  in  England. 
1756— Cotton  velvets  and  quiltings  first  made  in  England. 
1760— Stock  cards  first  used  for  cotton  by  James  Hargreaves. 

Drop  box  invented  by  Kay. 

1767  /  Spinning-jenny  invented  by  Hargreaves. 

1769— Richard  Arkwright  obtains  his  first  patent  on  spinning. 


HISTORY. 


21 


1774 —  Bill  passed  in  England  to  prevent  the  export  of  cotton 
machinery. 

1775 —  Second  patent  of  Arkwright  on  carding,  drawing  and 
spinning. 

-J  rrrrq  \  Mule  spinning  invented  by  Samuel  Crompton. 
)  Peele's  patent  on  carding,  roving  and  spinning. 

1782—  Wattes  patent  for  the  steam  engine. 

1783—  Bounty  granted  in  England  for  export  on  certain  cotton 
goods. 

1785 — Power  loom  invented  by  Dr.   Edmund  Cartwright. 

Cylinder  printing  invented  by  Bell.    A  warp  stop-motion 

described  in  Cartwright's  patent. 
1785 — First  application  of  steam  to  driving  textile  machinery 

at  Popplewick  Notts,  England. 
1788 — First  cotton  factory  built  in  the  United  States  at 

Beverly. 

1 789  ^        Island  cotton  first  planted  in  the  United  States. 

\  Samuel  Slater  starts  cotton  machinery  in  New  York. 
1790 — First  cotton  factory  built  in  Rhode  Island  by  Slater. 
1792 — First  American  loom  patent  granted  to  Kirk  and 
Leslie. 

1794 — Cotton  gin  patented  by  Elias  Whitney. 
1801 — Date  given  for  invention  of  the  Jacquard  machine  in 
France.  , 

1803—  Dressing  machine  and  warper  invented  in  England  by 
Radcliffe,  Ross  and  Johnson. 

1804—  First  cotton  mill  built  in  New  Hampshire,  at  New 
Ipswich. 

1805 —  Power  loom  successfully  introduced  in  England  after 
many  failures. 

1806—  First  cotton  mill  built  in  Connecticut,  at  Pomfret. 
1809— First  cotton  mill  built  in  Maine,  at  Brunswick. 
1811— First  cotton  mill  built  at  Fall  River,  Mass. 

1814 —  Cotton  opener  with  lap  attachment  invented  in  England 
by  Creighton. 

1815—  Power   loom  introduced  into  the  United  States  at 
Waltham. 

1816—  *First  loom  temple  of  Ira  Draper  patented  in  the 
United  States. 

1818— Machinery  for  preparing  sewing  cotton  invented  in 

England  by  Holt. 
1822 — First  cotton  factory  erected  at  Lowell. 

( Differential  motion  for  roving  frames  patented  by 
1823  j  Arnold. 

(  First  export  of  raw  cotton  from  Egypt  to  England, 

1824—  Tube  frame  or  speeder  patented  by  Charles  Danforth. 

1825 —  Self-acting  mule  patented  in  England  by  Roberts. 


22  HISTORY. 

1828  ^  -^^^^  spinning  patented  by  John  Thorpe. 

\  Cap  spinning  patented  by  Danforth. 
1829 — *Revolving  loom  temple  improvements   patented  by 

Ira  Draper. 

1832—  Stop-motion  for  drawing  frames  invented  by  Bachelder. 

1833 —  Ring  spinning  frames  first  built  by  William  Mason. 

(  Weft  fork  patented  in  England  by  Ramsbottom  and 
1834  ]  Hope. 

(  Shuttle-changing  loom  by  Reid  and  Johnson. 

f  Automatic  loomi  let-off  of  E.  B.  Bigelow  invented  about 
1840  \  time. 

1  *Important  temple  improvement  patented  by  George 

L  Draper. 

1842 — Weft  fork  perfected  in  England  by  James  Bullough. 
1846 — ^Parallel  shuttle-motion  patented  by  W.  W.  Dutcher. 

1849 —  First  cotton  mill  erected  at  Lawrence. 

1850 —  "^Hayden's  patent  for  railway-head  evener, 

1851 —  ^Reciprocating  temple  patent  of  E.  &  W.  W.  Dutcher. 

1852 —  ^Important  improvement  in  loom  temple  patented  by 
E.  &  W.  W.  Dutcher. 

1853 —  Card-cleaning  patent  of  G.  Wellman. 
1857— *Snell  &  Bartlett's  let-off  patent, 

r  Cheetham.    shuttle-changing    loom   patent;   the  first 
1859  ]       American  attempt  in  this  direction. 
(  "^Williamx  Stearns'  shuttle-motion  patent. 

1862  ^  Shepard's  let-off  patent. 

(  *Card-guide  patent  of  Hervey  Kent. 
1863 — ^George  Draper's  loom  stop-motion;  used  on  every  side 
dagger  loom  in  the  country, 

1865 —  Thomas  Mayor's  patent  on  roving  frame  improvements. 

1866—  *First  spindle  patent,  to  J.  E.  Atwood. 

1867    "^Cottrell  &  Draper's  double  beam  let-off  patent. 

\  ^Important  spindle  patent  granted  Rabbeth  &  Atwood. 
r*W.  F.  Draper's  thin  place  preventer  patent  for  looms. 
I  *First  American  self -threading  shuttle  patent  of  J.  A. 
1868-^  Metcalf. 

*Patent  of  F.  Haythorn,  for  the  first  spinning  frame 
separator. 

{ Important  loom  patent  of  Erastus  B.  Bigelow, 


1869^ 


"^First  bobbin-holder  patent  of  A.  M.  Wade. 
*W.  T.  Carroll's  double  flange  spinning  ring  patent. 


l^*First  inside-catch  shuttle  patent,  to  J.  H.  Coburn. 
1870  ^  original  Walmsley  warper  stop-motion. 

(  Oliver  Pearl's  spindle  patent. 

*These  devices  all  came  under  control  of  Hopedale 
interests  at  some  period  of  their  patent  existence. 


STATISTICS. 


23 


STATISTICS. 

The  statistics  published  in  this  work  were  collected  from 
a  variety  of  sources  and  go  to  prove  the  importance  of  this 
American  industry  and  its  steady  continuous  advance.  The 
technical  tables  have  been  carefully  prepared  and  are  as 
accurate  as  the  nature  of  the  case  will  allow.  They  have  been 
adopted  only  after  careful  inspection;  are  compiled  from  the 
best  sources  available;  and  we  trust  will  continue  to  be  of 
good  service. 


LEGAL  HOLIDAYS  IN  THE 
TEXTILE  STATES. 

There  are  no  national  holidaj^s.  Congress  has  on  different 
occasions  appointed  special  holidays,  and  recently  passed  an 
act  making  Labor  Day  a  legal  holiday  in  the  District  of 
Columbia,  It  has  recognized,  but  not  legalized,  as  holidays 
for  the  District  of  Columbia  certain  days  that  are  very 
generally  established  as  legal  holidays  throughout  the  States. 
The  Presidential  proclamation  of  Thanksgiving  Day  only 
makes  a  legal  holiday  in  the  District  of  Columbia  and  the 
national  territories. 

January  1,  New  Year's  Day.  Legal  holiday  in  all  the 
textile  states  except  Kansas  and  Massachusetts;  and  in 
Maine,  where  it  is  only  a  bank  holiday. 

January  8,  Anniversary  of  the  Battle  of  New 
Orleans.  Louisiana. 

January  19,  Lee's  Birthday.  Alabama,  Georgia, 
Mississippi,  North  Carolina,  South  Carolina  and  Virginia. 

February,  Mardi  Gras.  In  the  Parish  of  Orleans, 
Louisiana, 

February  12,  Lincoln's  Birthday.  California, 
Colorado,  Connecticut,  Delaware,  Illinois,  Indiana,  New 
Jersey,  New  York,  Pennsylvania  and  West  Virginia. 

February  12,  Georgia  Day.  Georgia. 


24 


STATISTICS. 


February  22,  Washington's  Birthday.  All  the  textile 
states. 

March  2,  Anniversary  of  Texas'  Independence. 
Texas. 

Good  Friday,  Alabama,  Connecticut,  Delaware, 
Louisiana,  Maryland,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Tennessee. 

April  12,  Anniversary  of  Halifax  Independence 
Resolutions.    North  Carolina. 

April  13,  Jefferson's  Birthday.  Alabama. 

April  19,  Patriots'  Day.    Maine  and  Massachusetts. 

April  21,  Anniversary  of  the  Battle  of  San  Jacinto. 
Texas. 

April  26,  Confederate  Memorial  Day.  Alabama, 
Georgia,  Mississippi. 

May  10,  Confederate  Memorial  Day.  North  Carolina, 
South  Carolina,  and  the  Second  Friday  in  May  in  Tennessee. 

May  20,  Mecklenburg  Declaration  of  Independence. 
North  Carolina. 

May  30,  Memorial  Day.  All  the  textile  states  except 
Georgia,  Louisiana,  Mississippi,  North  Carolina,  South 
Carolina,  Tennessee  and  Texas. 

June  3,  Jefferson  Davis'  Birthday.  Alabama, 
Georgia,  South  Carolina,  Tennessee,  Texas;  and  a  public 
school  holiday  in  Virginia. 

July  4,  Independence  Day.    All  the  textile  states. 

July,  Fourth  Saturday,  Primary  Election  Day. 
Texas. 

August  16,  Bennington  Battle  Day.  Vermont. 

September,  First  Monday,  Labor  Day.  All  Textile 
states  except  Louisiana,  where  it  is  observed  in  the  Orleans 
Parish. 

September  9,  Admission  Day.  California. 

September  12,  Old  Defenders'  Day.  In  the  City  of 
Baltimore,  Md. 

October  12,  Columbus  Day.  California,  Connecticut, 
Delaware,  Illinois,  Indiana,  Kansas,  Kentucky,  Maryland, 
Massachusetts,  New  Jersey,  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Rhode 
Island,  Texas,  Vermont. 

November  6,  All  Saints'  Day.  Louisiana. 

November,  General  Election  Day.  Legal  holiday 
throughout  the  Textile  States  in  such  years  as  state  or 
national  elections  occur. 


STA  TISTICS. 


25 


November,  Thanksgiving  day.  (Almost  universally 
the  last  Thursday  in  November).    All  the  textile  states. 

December  25,  Christmas  day.    All  the  textile  states. 

Mississippi  has  no  legal  holidays  by  Statute,  but  by 
common  consent  the  4th  of  July,  Thanksgiving  Day  and 
Christmas  are  universally  observed. 

Arbor  Day  is  a  legal  holiday  in  a  few  of  the  textile  states, 
though  in  some  it  is  only  observed  when  designated  by 
proclamation  of  the  Governor. 

There  are  a  number  of  the  states  that  have  by  state  law 
established  legal  holidays  every  Saturday  after  twelve 
o^  clock  noon,  the  laws  varying  in  various  states.  In  California 
in  public  offices;  in  Maryland,  New  York,  New  Jersey, 
Pennsylvania,  Rhode  Island  and  Virginia  it  is  a  banking 
holiday;  also  a  banking  holiday  in  New  Orleans,  La.,  and 
Charleston,  S.  C. ;  in  Louisiana  in  cities  exceeding  10,000 
inhabitants;  in  Tennessee  it  is  a  legal  holiday  for  city  and 
county  offices ;  in  Indiana  from  the  first  Saturday  in  June  to 
the  last  Saturday  in  October  inclusive  for  all  public  offices  in 
counties  having  a  county  seat  of  100,000  or  larger;  in  New 
Hampshire  it  is  a  legal  holiday  in  the  State  offices. 


GENERAL  FACTS  OF  PHYSICS. 

Tenacity  is  proportioned  to  the  area  of  the  cross  section. 

A  freely  falling  body  traverses  a  distance  of  16.08  feet 
the  first  second* 

The  distance  traversed  in  any  number  of  seconds  is  equal 
to  16.08  X  number  of  seconds  squared. 

The  length  of  a  second  pendulum  is  about  39  inches. 

A  horse  power  represents  the  ability  to  raise  33,000 
pounds  one  foot  high  in  one  minute. 

Water  weighs  about  623^  pounds  to  cubic  foot. 

The  pressure  of  the  atmosphere  is  about  15  pounds  to  the 
square  inch. 


26 


STATISTICS. 


Gold  Medal 
Liege  1905 


28 


STATISTICS. 


Gold  Medal 
Milan  1906 


Gold  Medal 
St.  Louis  1904 

We  illustrate  medals  av/arded  Draper  Company  at 
international  expositions,  for  improved  dwellings  for 
employees. 


STATISTICS. 


29 


1801 
1802 
1803 
1804 
1805 
1806 
1807 
1808 
1809 
1810 
1811 
1812 
1813 
1814 
1815 
1816 
1817 
1818 
1819 
1820 
1821 
1822 
1823 
1824 
1825 
1826 
1827 
1828 
1829 
1830 
1831 
1832 
1833 
1834 
1835 
1836 
1837 
1838 
1839 
1840 
1841 
1842 
1843 
1844 
1845 
1846 
1847 
1848 
1849 
1850 


Capital  Invested 
IN  Cotton  Manu- 
facturing IN  THE 
United  States. 


$40,612,984 


$74,500,934 


Value 

OF 

Products. 


Number 

OF 

Spindles. 


$32,000,000 


$46,350,453 


$61,869,184 


4,500 

8,000 

31,000 
87,000 


122,646 
130,000 


220,000 
230,000 


705,000 
1,246,703 
1,750,000 

2,285,337 

2,500,000 
2,751,078 


30 


STATISTICS. 


1851 
1852 
1853 
1854 
1855 
1856 
1857 
1858 
1859 
1860 
1861 
1862 
1863 
1864 
1865 
1866 
1867 
1868 
1869 
1870 
1871 
1872 
1873 
1874 
1875 
1876 
1877 
1878 
1879 
1880 
1881 
1882 
1883 
1884 
1885 
1886 
1887 
1888 
1889 
1890 
1891 
1892 
1893 
1894 
1895 
1896 
1897 
1898 
1899 
1900 


Capital  Invested 
IN  Cotton  Manu- 
facturing IN  THE 
United  States. 


$98,585,269 


$140,706,291 


$208,280,346 


$354,020,843 


$460,842,772 


Value 

OF 

Products. 


$115,681,774 


$177,489,739 


$192,090,110 


$267,981,724 


Number 

OF 

Spindles. 


5,235,727 


$332,806,156 


6,700,557 
7,132,415 


9,415,383 


10,635,435 
11,375,000 
12,150,000 
12,660,000 
13,300,000 
13,375,000 
13,400,000 
13,500,000 
13,550,000 
14,060,000 
14,405,000 
14,640,000 
15,200,000 
15,550,000 
15,700,000 
16,100,000 
16,650,000 
17,150,000 
17,450,000 
18,100,000 
20,000,000 


STATISTICS. 


31 


Capital  Invested 
IN  Cotton  Manu- 
facturing IN  THE 
United  States. 

Value 

OF 

Products. 

1901 
1902 
1903 
1904 
1905 
1906 
1907 
1908 
1909 
1910 
1911 

$822,238,000 

$628,392,000 

Number 

OF 

Spindles. 


20,200,000 
21,400,000 
22,000,000 
22,850,000 
23,687,000 
25,811,681 
26,939,415 
27,964,387 
28,573,435 
28,929,093 
30,803,662 


COMPARISON  OF  CAPITAL  INVESTED  AND  NUMBER 
OF  WAGE  EARNERS  IN  DIFFERENT  TEXTILE 
INDUSTRIES  IN  1910. 

Capital.       Wage  Earners. 

Cotton  and  cotton  small  Wares 

Manufactures   $822, 238, 000  378, 880 

Wool  and  worsted  manufactures..  430,579,000  168,722 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods   163,641,000  129,275 

Silk  manufactures   152,158,000  99,037 

Dyeing  and  finishing   114, 093, 000  44, 046 


Totals 


$1,682,709,000 


819,960 


32  STATISTICS, 


COTTON  MILL  PRODUCTS,  1910. 

ARRANGED  IN  ORDER  OF  YARDS  WOVEN. 

cent- 
intity 

cent- 
ilue 

Square 
Yards 

Rough  Per 
ag-e  of  Qua 

Value 

Rough  Per 
age  of  Vt 

Total  Woven  Goods  

6,348,568,593 

100 

$456, 089,401 

100 

Printers'  and 



Converters  Cloth 

2,224,677,848 

35 

111,097, 889 

24 

Sheetings  and  Shirtings 

■1    AC^A   ofo  forv 

1,484,353, 529 

23 

88,802,985 

20 

Ginghams  

537, 430,  4d3 

Q 
O 

37,939,040 

Q 
O 

Fancy  Woven  Fabrics... 

426,710,359 

7 

47,498,713 

10 

Twills  and  Sateens  

388,314,961 

5 

34,274,107 

7 

Napped  Fabrics  

305,655,864 

5 

25,695,367 

1  icks,  Denims  andStripes 

264,870,508 

4 

27,350,162 

6 

Drills 

SfiQ  407 

4 

17  7fS0  151 

4 

Duck  

162,476,322 

3 

27,485,892 

6 

Upholstery  Goods  

94,840,051 

2 

14,882,842 

3 

Bags  and  Bagging  

63,107,568 

1 

4,862,451 

1 

Mosquito  and  other 

Netting  

59,100,819 

2,103,560 

Cotton  Towels 

52,778,170 

6,037,075 

1 

Cottonades  

25,676,286 

3,343,533 

Corduroy,  Cotton  Velvet 

and  Plush  

19,706,438 



6,965,634 

1 

Pounds. 

Yarns  for  sale  

470,370,995 

109,314,953 

Thread  

23,700,957 

20,516,269 

Twine  

13,715,771 

2,417,391 

Cordage  and  Rope  

7,603,907 

1,164,526 

Cotton  Waste  sold  

310,513,348 

10,874,386 

Tape  and  Webbing  

5,531,674 

All  other  products  

22,483,213 

Total  value  of  all  products  $628, 391, 813 


COMPARISON  OF  DIFFERENT  TEXTILE  INDUSTRIES 

IN  1910. 

Manu-    Value  of  domestic      Exports.          Imports.  Total 

factures.         products.  consumption. 

Cotton     $628,391,813  $34,414,860  $68,380,780  $662,357,733 

Wool        419,743,521      2,123,165    22,058,712  439,679,068 

Silk          196,911,667        976,231    32,963,162  228,898,598 


Totals   $1,245,047,001  $37,514,256  $123,402,654  $1,330,935,399 


STATISTICS. 


33 


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m 
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CO  CD  C<l       0:>  00  rH  (>q  T— I  LO  iO  LO  00  CD  a:i  O  CO  (M 

LO  CD  (M  O  00  CD  O  00  Oi  O  CO  CO  LO  ^  T— I  tr- 00  ^  l>-  Oi  t> 
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CM  O  00  O  CO  Oi       CD  00  00       ^  lO  LO  Oi  as  (Nl  O  O  CD 


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LO  00  as  o  tr- 00  o  c<i  1— I  00  as  (M  as  CO  (M  as  00  CO  (M  ^  o 

T— I  CD  O  CO  CO  LO  O  00  (>3  l:^  00  00  CO  1— I  (Nl  t>- LO  t>- CD  LO  CO 


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I>-  I>       00  CD  T— I       CO  tH  (M  T— I  (M  rH  t— I 


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C^LOt>ast>-(>]C^Cv]C^'^rHi— l(N00aST— lt>-rHT— ICOCNJLO 
C<lI>-^rHaSrHLOt>-COOCDCOT— It-CO-^COT-HLOCDOO 


CO'xt^t>THaST— ICDt>COT— It-THasCDOOCOOOrHCDt^asOO 
C<lOL0t>CDrHO00O-^(MrHT:t<C0L0t>t:-t:-as^L0CD 
LOCDCDt>-^CO^OO^(MasCO^CDCDCOCDOOt>LOCOt:- 


COOO-^OC<l^COCOOOO(MCD^(NI'^^(MOOOt-^t:- 

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34 


STATISTICS. 


IMMIGRANT  ALIENS  ADMITTED  TO  THE  UNITED 
STATES  FOR  THE  YEAR  ENDING  JUNE  30,  1912, 


African  (black)    6,759 

Armenian   5,222 

Bohemian  and  Moravian   8,439 

Bulgarian,  Servian,  Montenegrin   10,657 

Chinese   1,608 

Croatian  and  Slovenian   24,366 

Cuban   3,155 

Dalmatian,  Bosnian,  Herzegovinian   3,672 

Dutch  and  Flemish    10,935 

East  Indian   165 

English   49,689 

Finnish   6,641 

French   18,382 

German    65,343 

Greek   31,566 

Hebrew   80,595 

Irish   33,922 

Italian  (north)   26,443 

Italian  r  south)   135,830 

Japanese   6,172 

Korean   33 

Lithuanian    14,078 

Magyar   23,599 

Mexican   22,001 

Pacific  Islander   3 

Polish   85,163 

Portuguese   9,403 

Roumanian   8,329 

Russian   22,558 

Ruthenian  (Russniak)    21,965 

Scandinavian   31,601 

Scotch   20,293 

Slovak   25,281 

Spanish   9,070 

Spanish-American    1,342 

Syrian   5,525 

Turkish   1,336 

Welsh   2,239 

West  Indian  (except  Cuban)    1,132 

Other  peoples   3,660 


Total   838,172 


STATISTICS. 


35 


IMMIGRANT  ALIENS  ADMITTED  TO  THE  UNITED 

STATES  FOR  THE  YEAR  ENDING  JUNE  30,  1912. 

Alabama   988 

Alaska   276 

Arizona   2,902 

Arkansas   313 

California   28,905 

Colorado   4,215 

Connecticut    23,227 

Delaware   1,081 

District  of  Columbia   1,685 

Florida   5,356 

Georgia   825 

Hawaii   6,654 

Idaho   1,480 

Illinois   67,118 

Indiana   7,753 

Iowa   7,147 

Kansas   2,901 

Kentucky   727 

Louisiana    1,811 

Maine   5,691 

Maryland   5,413 

Massachusetts   70, 171 

Michigan   33,559 

Minnesota   12,149 

Mississippi   329 

Missouri   8,980 

Montana    3,565 

Nebraska   4,490 

Nevada   1,026 

New  Hampshire   6,120 

New  Jersey   47,211 

New  Mexico   757 

New  York   239,275 

North  Carolina   421 

North  Dakota   3,947 

Ohio    38,148 

Oklahoma   681 

Oregon  •  4,138 

Pennsylvania   109,625 

Philippine  Islands   13 

Porto  Rico   1,406 

Rhode  Island   9,795 


36  STA  TISTICS, 

South  Carolina   275 

South  Dakota   1,792 

Tennessee   797 

Texas   22,885 

Utah   2,631 

Vermont   2,847 

Virginia   1,510 

Washington   11,882 

West  Virginia   6,212 

Wisconsin   14,016 

Wyoming   1,051 


Total   838,172 


<iD  a:i  a:> 

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rH  T^i  C<1  CO  as  00 


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1-H  o  o  as  00 
as  as  as  00  00  00 


STA  TISTICS. 


Carpets  and  Rugs. 

<X>  (M  1— 1  T-H  (M  T-H 
0:1  O  ^  O  00  LO 
0  00  00  T— 1 

rH*"  T-T  of  ocT  ocT  t-h" 

T— 1  rH 

0  urs  00  10  u::) 
0  Oi      (M  Oi  t^- 
(M  CD  O^CD^Oi^as^ 

rH^C^Too'oo" 

1 

orsted  Goods. 

CO  00  0  Oi  00  00 
I>C^  00  CN  0  (M 

oT  00"  ctT  oT  i-T  crT 
00  T— 1 1— 1 

in  the  Manufacture  of- 

tH  CD  00  00  T— 1  ^ 

NUMBER  OF  LOOMS. 

Woolen  Goods. 

00  ^  ^  00  LO  00 

^  0  00     u:d  00 

T— 1  tH  !>-  LO  tH 

00"  00  CD  00"  (M" 
00  00  00  00  00  00 

^  CD  00       00  tH 

Used 

Silk  Goods. 

CO  ^  IXM  rH  tH 
0  t-  10       C<J  00 
I>-  (M  00  00 

LcT  oT cT  lo"  T-T 
t>  LO  ^  (>q 

00  00       00  00 
00  t>  -sJH  00 
tH  t:-  T-i 

w           rH  00" 

■0 

Cotton  Goods. 

^  (M  CD  00  00 
10  00  LO  CD  00  ^ 
CD^l>  I>-  00  00  I>- 

\S  oT  iS  ^  t-"  t-" 

CD  10  (M  10 
CD  10  ^  00  (N  rH 

T—l  T— 1  T— 1  tH  tH  tH 

Total. 

00  ^  rH  T—l 
l>-  00  rH  Oi  Oi 
^      C<l  ^  ^ 

\S  cd"  00"  (nT  \S  0" 
th  00  0 

00  CD  10  ^  (M  (M 

00  Oi  tH  00  OS  00 
^  00  rH  (M  (M  CD 
0  00  00  rH 

rH"i-r'^''t>^'~ 

Class  of  Looms 
and  Census. 

0  0  0  0  0 
T-H  0  0  Oi  00  t>- 

00  00  00 

tH  T— 1  T-H  T— 1  T— 1  tH 

0 

Ph 

0  LO  0  0  0  0 
rH  0  0  Oi  00  t> 
05  0:1  OS  00  00  00 
rH  rH  T— 1  T— 1  T— 1  1— 1 

38  STATISTICS. 

ANNUAL   EXPORTS    OF   COTTON   GOODS  TO  THE 
CHINESE  EMPIRE. 

Yards  of 

Year                                                           goods  Value 

1900                                            101,687,030  $5,205,802 

1901                                            201,368,671  10,224,215 

1902                                            326,419,489  16,048,455 

1903                                            181,741,678  8,801,964 

1904                                            248,671,197  13,911,566 

1905                                            562,732,721  33,514,818 

1906                                            270,799,275  16,704,823 

1907                                              38,443,859  2,678,528 

1908                                              79,635,264  4,536,209 

1909                                            154,460,002  9,071,601 

1910                                              65,506,099  4,151,340 

1911                                           110,163,246  7,567,334 


SPINDLES  IN  USE. 
The  total  number  of  spindles  in  use  on  August  31,  1912  as 
given  by  the  International  Federation  of  Master  Cotton 


Spinners'  and  Manufacturers  Associations. 

Great  Britain   55, 317, 083 

United  States   30,313,000 

Germany   10,725,732 

Russia   8,800,000 

France   7,400,000 

India   6,195,214 

Austria   4,797,935 

Italy   4,580,000 

Spain   2,200,000 

Japan   2,191,960 

Switzerland   1,408,456 

Belgium   1,387,654 

Canada   855,293 

Sweden   529,772 

Portugal   480,000 

Holland   453,752 

Denmark   83,684 

Norway   73,568 

Mexico,  Brazil  and  other  countries   2,900,000 


Total   140,693,103 


STATISTICS. 


39 


COMPARISON  OF  THE  GOVERNMENT  ESTIMATE  OF 
THE  COTTON  CROP  WITH  THE  GOVERNMENT 
FINAL  REPORT  OF  THE  CROP  PRODUCED. 


December 

Department  of 
Agriculture 

Final  crop 
statement  of 
Department  of 
Agriculture 

Season 

of  1899-1900 

8,900,000 

9,507,000 

Season 

of  1900-1901 

10,100,000 

10,245,000 

Season 

of  1901-1902 

9,674,000 

9,748,000 

Season 

of  1902-1903 

10,417,000 

10,784,000 

Season 

of  1903-1904 

9,962,000 

10,015,000 

Season 

of  1904-1905 

12,168,000 

13,697,000 

Season 

01  lyuo-iyub 

1  A  1  an  f\c\r\ 
iU,iO<,0UU 

1  A  rZOC  AAA 

iU,  /Zo,UUU 

Season 

of  1906-1907 

12,546,000 

13,305,000 

Season 

of  1907-1908 

11,678,000 

11,325,000 

Season 

of  1908-1909 

12,920,000 

13,432,000 

Season 

of  1909-1910 

10,j088,000 

10,386,000 

Season 

of  1910-1911 

11,426,000 

11,965,000 

Season 

of  1911-1912 

14,885,000 
144,931,000 

16,109,000 
151,243,000 

The  average  underestimate  by  the  Department  of 
Agriculture  for  this  period  of  years  is  just  over  4  per  cent. 

The  number  of  bales  in  the  final  statement  given  here 
does  not  agree  with  the  table  on  the  second  page  following 
because  in  the  present  case  the  returns  are  given  for  the 
number  of  bales  and  in  the  latter  case  the  annual  yield  has 
been  reduced  to  a  statistical  bale  of  500  pounds  net  weight. 


Cloth  of  Prehistoric  Peru. 


40  STATISTICS. 


PRINT-CLOTH  STATISTICS. 


Probable 

Average 

Cost  per 

Margin 

Highest 
Price  of 

Lowest 

Price. 

Price 

Average 

Lb.  of 

Between 

Price  of 

(Not 

per  Lb. 
in  Cents 

Price  of 

Cotton 

Cotton 

Year. 

Print 

Print 

Average 

Middling 

Used 

and 

Cloth 

Cloth 

of  High 

at  7  yds. 

Uplands 

in  Cents, 

Cloth 

in  Cents. 

in  Cents. 

and 

per  Lb. 

per  Lb. 

with  15 

in  Cents 

Low.) 

in  Cents. 

per  cent. 

per  Lb. 

Waste. 

1860 

5^ 
9 

5.44 

38.08 

11. 

12.94 

25.14 

1861 

5.33 

37.31 

13.01 

15.31 

22. 

1862 

141^ 

7 

9.81 

68.67 

31.29 

36.81 

31.86 

1863 

19 

10^ 

15.20 

106.40 

67.21 

79.07 

27.33 

1864 

m/2 

16^ 

23.42 

163.94 

101.50 

119.41 

44.53 

1865 

10 

20.24 

141.68 

83.38 

98.09 

43.69 

1866 

11^ 

14.13 

98.91 

43.20 

50.82 

48.09 

1867 

12 

Q% 

9.12 

63.84 

31.59 

37.16 

26.68 

1868 

9^ 

8.18 

57.26 

24.85 

29.24 

28.02 

1869 

93^ 

8.30  ' 

58.10 

29.01 

34.13 

23.97 
21.77 

1870 

%K 

63^ 

7.14 

49.98 

23.98 

28.21 

1871 

8 

63^ 
7% 

7.41 

51.87 

16.95 

19.94 

31.93 

1872 

9 

7.88 

55.16 

22.19 

26.11 

29.05 

1873 

73^ 

6% 
6g 

6.69 

46.83 

20.14 

23.69 

23.14 

1874 

63^ 

5.57 

38.99 

17.95 

21.11 

17.88 

1875 

6^ 

4% 

5.33 

37.31 

15.46 

18.19 

19.12 

1876 

3^ 

4.10 

28.70 

12.98 

15.27 

13.43 

1877 

^y^ 

4.38 

30.66 

11.82 

13.90 

16.76 

1878 

4 

3.44 

24.08 

11.22 

13.20 

10.88 

1879 

4)^ 
5.87 

3A 
3k 

3.93 

27.51 

10.84 

12.75 

14.76 

1880 

4.51 

31.57 

11.51 

13.54 

18.03 

1881 

33? 

3.95 

27.65 

12.03 

14.15 

13.50 

1882 

3.95 

3?| 

3.76 

26.32 

11.56 

13.60 

12.72 

1883 

3ii 

3.44 

3.60 

25.20 

11.88 

13.98 

11.22 

1884 

3.62 

3.08 

3.36 

23.52 

10.88 

12.80 

10.72 

1885 

3^ 

2.98 

3.12 

21.84 

10.45 

12.29 

9.55 

1886 

3i| 

33^ 

3.31 

23.17 

9.28 

10.91 

12.26 

1887 

3?^ 

314 

3.33 

23.31 

10.21 

12.01 

11.30 

1888 

4 

33^ 

3.81 

26.67 

10.03 

11.80 

14.87 

1889 

4tV 

3>^ 

3.81 

26.67 

10.65 

12.52 

14.15 

1890 

3t% 

3 

3.34 

23.38 

11.07 

13.02 

10.36 

1891 

3rs 

2% 

2.95 

20.65 

8.60 

10.11 

10.54 

1892 

4t^ 

% 

3.39 

23.73 

7.71 

9.07 

14.66 

1893 

4 

2% 

3.30 

23.10 

8.56 

10.07 

13.03 

1894 

3^ 

^¥ 

2.75 

19.25 

6.94 

8.16 

11.09 

1895 

3x^s 

2r5 

2.86 

20.02 

7.44 

8.75 

11.27 

1896 

3 

2t5 

2.60 

18.20 

7.93 

9.33 

8.87 

1897 

oil 

<^\^ 

2H 

2.48 

17.36 

7. 

8.24 

9.12 

1898 

IVs 

2.06 

14.42 

5.94 

6.99 

7.43 

1899 

314 

2% 

2.69 

18.83 

6.88  , 

8.09 

10.74 

1900 

3i| 

2% 

3.21 

22.47 

9.25 

10.88 

11.59 

1901 

3% 

2% 

2.84 

19.88 

8.75 

10.29 

9.59 

1902 

3 

3.11 

21.77 

9. 

10.59 

11.18 

1903 

3% 

3 

3.25 

22.75 

11.18 

13.15 

9.60 

1904 

3 

3.44 

24.08 

11.75 

13.82 

10.26 

1905 

3% 

2ys 

3.12 

21.84 

9.80 

11.53 

10.31 

1906 

4 

3.62 

25.34 

11.50 

13.53 

11.81 

1907 

4.75 

33.25 

12.10 

14.23 

19.02 

1908 
1909 

4^1 

3.35 

23.45 

10.62 

12.49 

10.96 

4 

3 

3.59 

25.13 

12.68 

14.92 

10.21 

1910 

414 

3 

3.89 

27.23 

15.11 

17.77 

9.46 

1911 

3 

3.49 

24.43 

13.08 

15.39 

9.04 

STATISTICS. 


41 


Cotton  Crop  of  the  United  States  Expressed  in  Sta- 
tistical Bales  of  500  Pounds  Net  Weight. 


Crop  in 

Average 

Crop  in 

Average 

Year. 

thousands 

Price  in 

Year. 

thousands 

Price  in 

of  bales. 

Cents. 

of  bales. 

Cents. 

1788-89 

2,000 



1851-52 

2,676.000 

12.14 

1789-90 

3,000 

14.5 

1852-53 

2.993,000 

9.5 

1790-91 

4,000 

26. 

1853-54 

2.643.000 

11.02 

1791-92 

6,000 

26. 

1854-55 

2.588,000 

10.97 

1792-93 

10,000 

29. 

1855-56 

3.069.000 

10.39 

1793-94 

16,000 

32. 

1856-57 

2.746.000 

10.30 

1794-95 

16,000 

33. 

1857-58 

2,879.000 

13.51 

1795-96 

20,000 

36.5 

1858-59 

3.592.000 

12.23 

1796-97 

22,000 

36.5 

1859-60 

4,582,000 

12.08 

1797-98 

30,000 

34. 

1860-61 

3.672,000 

11. 

1798-99 

40,000 

39. 

1861-62 

4,293.000 

13.01 

1799-00 

70,000 

44. 

1862-63 

1.526.000 

31.29 

1800-01 

96,000 

28. 

1863-64 

429,000 

67.21 

1801-02 

110,000 

44. 

1864-65 

286,000 

101.50 

1802-03 

120,000 

19. 

1865-66 

2,000,000 

83.38 

1803-04 

130,000 

19. 

1866-67 

2,062.000 

43.20 

1804-05 

140,000 

20. 

1867-68 

2.242,000 

31.59 

1805-06 

160,000 

23. 

1868-69 

2.101.000 

24.85 

1806-07 

160,000 

22. 

1869-70 

2.703.000 

29.01 

1807-08 

150,000 

21.5 

1870-71 

3.830,000 

23.98 

1808-09 

164,000 

19. 

1871-72 

2.641.000 

16.95 

1809-10 

170,000 

16. 

1872-73 

3,510,000 

22.19 

1810-11 

160,000 

16. 

1873-74 

3.634,000 

20.14 

1811-12 

150,000 

15.5 

1874-75 

3,393.000 

17.95 

1812-13 

150,000 

10.5 

1875-76 

4,122,000 

15.46 

1813-14 

140,000 

12. 

1876-77 

3,971.000 

12.98 

1814-15 

200,000 

15. 

1877-78 

4,282.000 

11.82 

1815-16 

248,000 

21. 

1878-79 

4.556.000 

11.22 

1816-17 

260,000 

29.5 

1879-80 

5,412,000 

10.84 

1817-18 

250,000 

26.5 

1880-81 

6,062,000 

11.51 

1818-19 

334,000 

34. 

1881-82 

4,904.000 

12.03 

1819-20 

320,000 

24. 

1882-83 

6.452.000 

11.56 

1820-21 

360,000 

17. 

1883-84 

5.225.000 

11.88 

1821-22 

420,000 

16. 

1884-85 

5.198.000 

10.88 

1822-23 

370,000 

16.5 

1885-86 

6.030.000 

10.45 

1823-24 

430,000 

11. 

1886-87 

5.977.000 

9.28 

1824-25 

510,000 

15. 

1887-88 

6.516,000 

10.21 

1825-26 

700,000 

21. 

1888-89 

6,736.000 

10.03 

1826-27 

540,000 

11. 

1889-90 

6.888.000 

10.65 

1827-28 

650,000 

9.5 

1890-91 

8.242.000 

11.07 

1828-29 

730,000 

10.25 

1891-92 

8.526,000 

8.60 

1829-30 

700,000 

10. 

1892-93 

6,318.000 

7.71 

1830-31 

770,000 

10. 

1893-94 

7,115,000 

8.56 

1831-32 

780,000 

9.25 

1894-95 

9,480,000 

6.94 

1832-33 

890,000 

10. 

1895-96 

6,798,000 

7.44 

1833-34 

920,000 

IL 

1896-97 

8.281,000 

7.93 

1834-35 

921,000 

13. 

1897-98 

10,775,000 

7. 

1835-36 

1,014,000 

16.5 

1898-99 

10,940,000 

5.94 

1836-37 

1,078,000 

13.25 

1899-00 

8,997,000 

6.88 

1837-38 

1,365,000 

10.14 

1900-01 

9,991,000 

9.25 

1838-39 

1,045,000 

13.36 

1901-02 

10,344,000 

8.75 

1    ceo  AAA 

8.92 

*1  AAO  AO 

190Z-03 

"1  A  C%n  A  AAA 

10,^74,000 

9. 

1840-41 

1,288,000 

9.50 

1903-04 

9,682,000 

11.18 

1841-42 

1,337,000 

7.85 

1904-05 

13,436,000 

11.75 

1842-43 

1,945,000 

7.25 

1905-06 

10,919,000 

9.80 

1843-44 

1,692,000 

7.73 

1906-07 

13,269,000 

11.50 

1844-45 

1,987  000 

5.63 

1907-08 

11,089,000 

12.10 

1845-46 

1,726,000 

7.87 

1908-09 

13,458,000 

10.62 

1846-47 

1,513,000 

11.21 

1909-10 

10,155,000 

12.68 

1847-48 

2,034,000 

8.03 

1910-11 

11,834,000 

15.11 

1848-49 

2,499,000 

7.55 

1911-12 

15,876,000 

13.08 

1849-50 

2,000,000 

11. 

1850-51 

2,041,000 

12.34 

Read  price  column  with  reference  to  first  column  of  year  figures.  Prices 
given  are  for  calendar  year. 


42 


COTTON. 


COTTON. 

Historically  the  source  of  origin  of  the  cotton  plant  is 
shrouded  in  mystery.  It  was  known  in  India  hundreds  of 
years  before  the  Christian  era.  Columbus  found  cotton  in 
the  West  Indies  in  1492;  Cortez  found  it  in  Mexico  in  1519; 
Pizarro  found  it  in  Peru  in  1522,  and  Peruvian  mummies  have 
been  found  wrapped  in  cotton  cloths. 

The  cotton  plant  is  grown  in  the  Southern  states  of  the 
United  States,  in  India,  Egypt,  China,  Brazil,  Peru,  Asiatic 
Russia  and  more  recently  in  Central  and  South  Africa.  Some 
few  thousand  bales  have  also  been  raised  in  Southern 
California.  The  South  Atlantic  and  lower  Mississippi  States 
are  the  real  source  of  the  cotton  supply  of  the  world,  raising 
about  70  percent  of  the  annual  yield  available  for  spinning. 
This  crop  is  the  principal  product  of  these  states,  and  has 
the  highest  ultimate  money  value  of  any  crop  raised  in  the 


COTTON. 


43 


entire  country.  It  furnishes  the  raw  material  for  one  of  our 
most  important  manufacturing  industries,  and  is  our  largest 
item  of  export. 

Botanically  the  cotton  plant  is  of  the  Malvaceae  or 
Mallow  family,  and  its  generic  name  Gossypium  was  given  it 
by  Pliny  during  the  first  century  of  the  Christian  era.  The 
plants  while  naturally  perennial  and  in  some  countries  so 
treated,  are  in  America  cultivated  as  annuals.    The  number 

of  distinct  botanical  species  is 
limited,  but  the  varieties  due 
to  changes  in  soil  and  methods 
of  cultivation  number  over  one 
hundred.  The  long  staple  Sea 
Island  cotton  is  a  distinct 
species,  and  is  generally 
supposed  to  have  been  a  native 
of  the  West  Indies. 

In  the  early  days  of  cotton 
raising  it  was  customary  to 
raise  the  annual  crop  in  one 
place  through  a  series  of  years 
until  the  fertility  of  the  soil 
was  exhausted  and  then  to 
move  to  virgin  territory.  In 
modern  times,  however,  it  has 
become  the  recognized  practice 
to  fertilize  the  fields  and  the 
crop  responds  freely  to  this 
method  of  treatment. 

In  the  cotton  crop  statistics, 
which  we  give,  various  sources 
of  information  have  been  consulted,  and  with  the  early  crops, 
especially,  there  is  quite  a  variation  between  equally  good 
authorities.  The  list  given,  however,  is  accurate  enough  for 
practical  purposes.  The  tables  from 
1870  on  are  copied  by  courtesy  of  the 
late  Colonel  A.  B.  Shepperson,  from 
the  various  editions  of  his  **Cotton 
Facts,"  and  since  his  death  the 
commercial  crop  as  given  by  the 
Shepperson  Publishing  Company  has 
been  followed.  The  prices  from  1821 
are  for  Middling  Upland  in  New 
York  City,  and  the  prices  are  listed 
to  correspond  to  the  first  of  the  dates  in  year  column. 

The  following  are  the  United  States  Official  Cotton 


44 


COTTON. 


Grades,  established  by  the  Department  of  Agriculture  of  the 
United  States  Government: 

Middling  fair 

Strict  Middling 

Good  Middling 

Strict  Good  Middling 

Middling 

Strict  low  middling 
Low  middling 
Strict  good  ordinary 
Good  ordinary. 
These  grades  have  been  officially  adopted  by  the  following 
cotton  exchanges  and  associations: 
New  Orleans  Macon 
Memphis  Mobile 
St.  Louis  Oklahoma 
Charleston  New  England  Buyers 

Natchez  Arkwright  Club 

Little  Rock  Southern  Cotton  Buyers 

Galveston  Fall  River  Cotton  Buyers 

The  picking  of  the  cotton  crop  is  still  carried  on  by  hand. 
It  is  a  very  expensive  and  crude  way  to  gather  the  crop 
costing  millions  of  dollars  annually; 
there  is  no  doubt  that  sometime  in  the 
future  some  genius  will  invent  a 
machine  which  will  save  a  large  share 
of  this  w^aste  of  energy,  and  do  the 
actual  gathering  of  the  fibre  better 
than  it  is  now  done. 

Having  gathered  the  crop  the  next 
process  is  separating  the  lint  from  the 
seed.  The  machines  used  for  this 
process  are  known  as  gins,  and  are  of 
two  distinct  types,  roller  gins  and  saw  gins.  The  roller  gin 
is  the  more  ancient,  and  is  said  to  have  been  used  in  a  crude 
way  by  the  Hindus  from  the  earliest  times.  It  was  a  hand 
process  and  extremely  slow.  The  advent  of  the  saw  gin 
invented  by  Eli  Whitney  revolutionized  the  process,  and  gave 
a  new  impetus  to  cotton  raising  and  cotton  manufacture.  The 
saw  gin  is  more  liable  to  injure  the  fibre,  but  is  still  used 
almost  exclusively  for  the  main  cotton  crop,  the  roller  gin 
being  confined  to  the  long  stapled  Sea  Island  cotton.  Here 
again  is  an  opening  for  any  inventor  who  will  devise  a  gin  that 
will  give  the  product  of  the  saw  gin  and  the  quality  of  the 
roller  gin. 

By  far  the  largest  part  of  the  cotton  crop  is  sold  to  the 


COTTON, 


45 


manufacturer  in  bales.  The  Egyptian  bale  is  packed  to  an 
average  density  of  45  pounds  to  the  cubic  foot,  as  against 
about  22  pounds  for  the  average  American  bale. 

We  think  of  Egypt  as  a  relic  of  the  past,  but  in  the 
baling  of  cotton  our  twentieth  century  Americans  may  well 
pattern  after  Egypt.  While  the  Egyptian  bale  is  in  every 
way  prepared  for  the  accidents  and  wear  and  tear  incident  to 
travel,  the  American  bale  is  anything  but  a  credit  to  the 
American  farmer,  compress  owner  and  exporter. 

A  few  of  the  Southern  cotton  mills  avoid  entirely  the 
baling  of  cotton  by  being  located  in  the  cotton  fields,  the 
cotton  being  carried  directly  from  the  gin  to  the  mills.  The 
advantages  consist  mainly  in  examining  on  the  ground  the 
staple  and  color  of  the  cotton,  and  in  having  an  opportunity 
for  picking  over  and  selecting  from  the  crop  gathered  in  the 
neighborhood. 


An  Alabama  Cotton  Field. 


46 


COTTON. 


REVISED  NEW  ENGLAND  TERMS  FOR  BUYING  AND 
SELLING  AMERICAN  COTTON 
(Except  Sea  Island). 


Accepted  by  the  Arkwright  Club,  the  New  England 
Cotton  Buyers'  Association  and  The  Fall 
River  Cotton  Buyers'  Association, 
in  effect  september  1,  1912. 


NOTICE. 

Sections  designated  Short''  apply  to  short  staple  cotton 
only. 

Sections  designated  ''Long"  apply  to  long  staple  cotton 
only. 

Sections  designated  ''Both"  apply  to  both  long  and  short 
staple. 

CLASSIFICATION. 

1.  (Both.)  The  United  States  Government  standard 
classification  shall  be  used. 

2.  (Both.)  Sales  calling  for  even-running  grades,  or 
made  on  type,  may  contain  5  per  cent,  half  a  grade  below  the 
grade  specified  if  offset  by  an  equal  number  of  bales  half  a 
grade  above  that  specified.  ' 

3.  (Both.)  Sales  calling  for  average  grade,  or  made  on 
type,  may  contain  5  per  cent,  half  a  grade  below  the  lowest 
grade  specified  if  offset  by  an  equal  number  of  bales  half  a 
grade  above  the  highest  grade  specified. 

4.  (Both.)  Any  excess  of  low  grade  may  be  rejected 
by  the  purchaser,  or  claimed  for  at  an  allowance.  If  rejected 
the  seller  is  to  have  the  right  to  replace  and  the  purchaser 
may  require  replacement.  The  cost  and  actual  expenses  of 
handling  rejections  shall  be  paid  by  the  seller. 

5.  (Both.)  Whenever  a  specific  lot  of  cotton  purchased 
by  actual  samples  does  not  equal  the  samples,  the  purchaser 
shall  have  the  right  to  reject  the  lot  if  less  than  one  half  is 
equal  to  the  samples.  If  one  half  or  more  is  equal  to  the 
samples,  the  purchaser  may  reject  the  portion  not  equal  to 
the  samples,  but  in  either  event  samples  of  the  entire  mark 
must  be  exhibited  to  the  seller. 

6.  (Both.)  The  cost  and  actual  expenses  of  handling 
the  rejections  shall  be  paid  by  the  seller,  and  in  case  of 
rejection  the  seller  shall  not  be  called  upon  to  replace. 


COTTON. 


47 


DEFINITION  OF  SHORT  STAPLE  COTTON. 

7.  (Short.)  The  phrase  * 'short  staple/'  as  used  in 
these  terms,  is  hereby  defined  to  mean  any  length  of  staple 
shorter  than  V/^  inch,  regardless  of  the  territory  from  which 
it  is  shipped. 

DEFINITION  OF  LONG  STAPLE. 

8.  (Long.)  The  phrase  ''long  staple,"  as  used  in  these 
terms,  is  hereby  defined  to  mean  \\i  inch  and  longer, 
regardless  of  the  territory  from  which  it  is  shipped. 

DIFFERENCES  BETWEEN  GRADES. 

9.  (Short.)  Differences  between  grades  shall  be  fixed 
on  the  third  Thursdays  of  September,  November  and 
February,  and  shall  be  the  average  of  the  differences  existing 
on  said  dates  in  the  New  York,  New  Orleans,  Memphis  and 
Augusta  Cotton  Exchanges.  Claims  for  allowances  on  grade 
of  short  staple  cotton  shall  be  determined  as  above. 

CLASSERS. 

10.  (Short.)  The  New  England  Cotton  Buyers' 
Association  or  the  Fall  River  Cotton  Buyers'  Association 
shall  employ  three  or  more  cotton  classers,  three  of  whom 
are  to  act  in  each  case,  to  class  or  staple  all  cotton  submitted 
to  them. 

11.  (Short.)  The  classers  shall  not  undertake  to  declare 
the  length  of  any  staple,  but  shall  judge  of  the  length  of 
staple  of  any  lots  submitted  to  them  only  in  comparison  with 
the  length  of  staple  of  a  type  which  has  been  agreed  upon  as 
a  standard  by  the  purchaser  and  seller,  and  which  must  be 
submitted  with  the  samples  of  the  lot  in  question. 

BOARD  OF  APPEAL. 

12.  (Both.)  There  shall  be  a  Board  of  Appeal 
consisting  of  three  members,  as  follows:  One  member  of  the 
New  England  Cotton  Buyers'  Association  or  the  Fall  River 
Cotton  Buyers'  Association  and  one  manufacturer  (with 
alternates  to  serve  in  case  of  the  absence  or  disqualification 
of  either)  and  a  third  to  be  selected  by  them.  The  Board  of 
Appeal  shall  serve  for  one  year  or  until  their  successors  are 
appointed. 

13.  (Both. )  Any  dispute  between  purchaser  and  seller 
as  to  whether  a  shipment  conforms  to  the  terms  of  a  sale, 
the  amount  of  any  allowance,  or  the  interpretation  of  any 
section  of  these  terms,  shall  be  referred  to  the  Board  of 
Appeal  upon  the  request  of  either  party  in  interest.  The 


48 


COTTON, 


decision  of  the  Board  of  Appeal  shall  be  final.  No  person 
interested  in  the  cotton  involved  shall  serve  as  a  member  of 
the  Board  of  Appeal. 

REDRAWN  SAMPLES. 

14.  (Both.)  In  all  cases  where  claims  are  made  for  off 
grade  or  where  cotton  is  rejected,  the  purchaser  shall  furnish 
full-sized,  redrawn  samples  from  each  bale  of  each  mark,  if 
required. 

SHIPMENTS. 

15.  (Both.)  Unless  otherwise  specified,  cotton  sold  for 
prompt  or  immediate  shipment  must  be  shipped  and  bills  of 
lading  dated  within  14  days  from  the  date  of  sale. 

16.  (Both.)  When  a  sale  is  made  for  shipment  in  a 
certain  month  or  months,  cotton  may  be  shipped  at  any  time 
the  shipper  may  elect  during  the  month  or  months  specified, 
but  shipments  must  be  made  and  bills  of  lading  dated  within 
the  month  or  months  specified. 

SHIPPING  WEIGHTS. 

17.  (Both.)  All  sales  shall  be  on  the  basis  of 
guaranteed  invoice  weights. 

18.  (Short.)  All  short  staple  cotton  from  the  States  of 
Texas,  Arkansas  and  Mississippi  (with  the  exception  of  the 
upland  portions)  and  from  the  New  Orleans,  Memphis  and 
St.  Louis  markets  shall  be  sold  on  the  basis  of  53,000  pounds 
for  each  100  bales,  and  from  the  States  of  Oklahoma,  North 
Carolina,  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  Alabama,  Tennessee  and 
the  upland  portions  of  Mississippi  on  the  basis  of  50,000 
pounds  for  each  100  bales;  there  may  be  a  variation  of  5  per 
cent,  either  way,  in  each  case. 

19.  (Long.)  All  long  staple  cotton  shall  be  sold  on  the 
basis  of  53,000  pounds  for  each  100  bales,  with  a  variation  of 
5  per  cent,  either  way. 

20.  (Both.)  If  the  number  of  bales  shipped  does  not 
make  the  weight  as  above  provided,  the  shipper  may  be 
required  to  add  a  sufficient  number  of  bales  to  bring  the  total 
weight  of  the  cotton  delivered  up  to  the  weight  called  for  on 
the  above  basis. 

21.  (Both.)  If  a  less  number  of  bales  than  the  number 
sold  will  give  the  weight  called  for  on  the  above  basis,  the 
purchaser  may  require  that  the  number  of  bales  delivered 
shall  be  reduced  accordingly. 


COTTON, 


49 


22.  (Both.)  Written  notice  of  any  dissatisfaction  with 
respect  to  shipping  weights  under  the  two  preceding  sections 
must  be  given  by  the  purchaser  not  later  than  three  days 
after  receipt  of  invoice. 

SCALES. 

23.  (Both.)  The  purchaser  shall  have  his  scales  tested 
and  certified  by  a  Sealer  of  Weights  and  Measures  at  least 
every  three  months,  and  the  date  when  they  were  last  tested 
shall  be  shown  on  all  weight  and  tare  returns. 

RECEIVING  WEIGHTS. 

24.  (Both.)  Cotton  must  be  weighed  as  promptly  as 
possible,  but  within  48  hours  from  the  time  it  is  taken  from 
the  car,  or  otherwise  unloaded,  and  before  it  is  stored.  The 
receiving  weight  shall  be  tagged  on  each  bale.  There  shall 
be  34  pound  per  bale  allowance  after  48  hours  for  every  day's 
delay  in  weighing. 

25.  (Both.)  All  cotton  must  be  weighed  before  any 
samples  or  bands  have  been  removed. 

26.  (Both. )  All  returns  of  weights  must  be  sworn  to  or 
signed  by  a  sworn  weigher. 

27.  (Both. )  In  case  of  loss  in  weight  separate  detailed 
weight  returns  for  each  mark  showing  the  gross  weight  of 
each  bale  (without  any  deductions  for  dampness,  extra  bands 
or  any  other  cause)  must  be  given  to  the  seller  within  15  days 
after  receipt  of  cotton  by  the  purchaser. 

28.  (Both. )  When  95  per  cent,  of  the  cotton  is  received, 
if  the  balance  of  the  shipment  does  not  arrive  within  the 
next  15  days,  the  weights  shall  be  reported  as  in  Section  27, 
taking  the  average  invoice  weight  for  the  short  bales.  The 
loss  in  weight  shall  be  adjusted  on  this  basis,  and  such  weight 
settlement  shall  be  final. 

29.  (Both.)  If  missing  bales  do  not  arrive  within  30 
days  after  the  date  of  a  claim  for  loss  in  weight,  the 
purchaser  shall  make  a  claim  against  the  transportation 
companies  for  the  number  of  bales  missing  at  that  time,  at 
the  invoice  weight  and  price,  such  claim  to  be  filed  for 
collection  with  the  New  England  Freight  Claim  Bureau, 
either  directly  by  the  purchaser,  or  through  the  seller. 

30.  (Both.)  When  cotton  is  received  by  the  purchaser 
in  a  wet  or  damaged  condition  it  shall  be  immediately  weighed 
and  the  seller  and  the  transportation  company  notified  in 
writing  of  its  condition.    The  cotton  shall  be  receipted  for  by 


50 


COTTON, 


the  purchaser  to  the  transportation  company  under  protest, 
and  the  seller  shall  be  immediately  notified  of  such  protest. 

31.  (Both.)  Such  cotton  shall  be  held,  giving  the 
shipper  an  opportunity  to  investigate;  but  the  purchaser  shall 
not  be  required  to  so  hold  it  for  a  longer  period  than  10  days. 

32.  (Both.)  Upon  request  all  returns  of  weights  must 
be  dated  showing  when  the  cotton  arrived  and  when  it  was 
weighed,  upon  blanks  in  the  following  form: 

33.  (Both.)    Dates  Arrival  and  Weighing. 

  191  

This  is  to  certify  that  B/C  marked   shipped  

191  by  to  

arrived  at  the  mills  and  were  weighed  on  the  dates  shown  below. 

DATE  OF  ARRIVAL.  DATE  WEIGHED. 

 B/C  arrived  191  and  were  weighed  191  weight  

 B/C  arrived  191  and  were  weighed  191  weight  

 B/C  arrived   191.  and  were  weighed  191  weight  

 B/C  arrived  191...... and  were  weighed  191  weight  

 B/C  arrived  191  and  were  weighed  191  weight  

By  

Note.  Printed  blank  forms  like  above  will  be  furnished  by  the  New 
England  or  the  Fall  River  Cotton  Buyers'  Association  on  request. 

CLAIMS— Loss  IN  Weight. 

34.  (Both.)  Claims  for  loss  in  weight  shall  be  made  on 
the  basis  of  each  separate  invoice. 

35.  (Both.)  In  case  of  excessive  loss  in  weight,  i.  e., 
5  pounds  per  bale,  from  the  invoice  weight,  the  cotton  shall 
be  held  and  the  seller  notified  and  given  an  opportunity  to 
reweigh  if  he  desires,  but  the  purchaser  shall  not  be  required 
to  hold  the  cotton  for  the  purpose  of  reweighing  for  a  longer 
period  than  10  days.  Nothing  in  this  section,  however,  shall 
be  construed  to  prohibit  the  seller  from  weighing  a  lot  losing 
less  than  5  pounds  per  bale  if  he  so  desires  and  if  it  is 
practicable.  If  the  cotton  is  held  in  a  heated  warehouse 
proper  allowance  shall  be  made  for  extra  shrinkage. 

36.  (Both.)  If  the  seller  desires  to  reweigh  and  the 
purchaser  cannot  furnish  immediate  access  to  the  cotton,  he 
shall  be  allowed  10  days  to  put  the  cotton  in  position  for 
reweighing.  If  at  the  end  of  10  days  the  purchaser  is  still 
unable  to  afford  access  to  the  cotton,  he  shall  allow  the  seller 
34  pound  per  bale  for  each  day  thereafter  until  the  cotton  is 
accessible  for  reweighing. 

37.  (Both.)  On  reweighed  cotton  there  shall  be  an 
allowance  of  34  pound  per  bale  for  sampling  and  134  pounds 
for  each  band  removed  by  the  purchaser. 


COTTON, 


51 


38.  (Both.)  Claims  for  loss  in  weight  shall  be 
accompanied  by  the  purchaser's  detailed  weight  lists  of  each 
mark  and  by  a  certificate  as  follows: 

39.  (Both).    Form  of  Weight  Return. 

 191  

This  is  to  certify  that  B/C  marked  

invoiced  to  

were  weighed  promptly  (within  48  hours)  after  arrival  and 
before  any  samples  or  bands  were  removed  from  any  of 
the  bales  by  us;  also  that  the  individual  weights  of  the  bales 
as  shown  on  the  attached  detailed  weight  list  are  the  gross 
weights  of  each  bale  and  that  the  scale  on  which  they  were 
weighed  was  last  tested  and  certified  by  a  Sealer  of  Weights 
and  Measures  on  191  


By  

Note.  Printed  blank  forms  like  above  will  be  furnished  on  application 
to  the  New  England  or  the  Fall  River  Cotton  Buyers'  Association. 

40.  (Both.)  If,  on  reweighing  the  reweights  agree  with 
the  original  receiving  weights  within  1  pound  per  bale  (after 
due  allowance  is  made  for  shrinkage,  samples  and  bands,  as 
per  Sections  35  and  37),  the  claim  shall  be  settled  on  the 
original  receiving  weights  and  the  seller  shall  pay  the  cost  of 
reweighing,  and  also  the  charge  for  handling. 

41.  (Both.)  If  their  weights  show  a  gain  between  1  and 
2  pounds  per  bale  over  the  original  receiving  weights  (after 
due  allowance  is  made  for  shrinkage,  samples  and  bands,  as 
per  Sections  35  and  37),  the  claim  shall  be  settled  on  the 
reweights,  the  seller  paying  the  cost  of  reweighing,  the 
purchaser  making  no  charge  for  handling. 

42.  (Both.)  If  the  reweights  show  a  gain  of  more  than 
2  pounds  per  bale  over  the  original  receiving  weights  (after 
due  allowance  is  made  for  shrinkage,  samples  and  bands,  as 
per  Sections  35  and  37),  the  claim  shall  be  settled  on  the 
reweights,  and  the  purchaser  shall  pay  the  cost  of  reweighing 
and  shall  make  no  charge  for  handling. 

43.  (Both.)  The  charge  for  handling  on  reweighed 
cotton  shall  be  the  amount  of  the  actual  cost  to  the  purchaser 
of  handling,  but  not  exceeding  10  cents  per  bale. 

CLAIMS— Tare. 

44.  (Both.)  The  first  10  bales  of  each  mark  of  100 
bales  or  less  taken  out  of  a  car,  or  otherwise  unloaded  at 
destination,  shall  be  tagged  with  a  red  tag  and  indicated  by 


52 


COTTON, 


a  cross  on  return  of  weights  to  the  seller.  If  there  are  more 
than  100  bales  in  the  mark,  a  number  of  bales  equal  to  10  per 
cent,  of  the  mark  shall  be  thus  set  aside,  tagged  and 
indicated. 

45.  (Both.)  When  opened,  the  bagging  and  ties  on  each 
of  the  bales  so  tagged  shall  be  weighed,  and  a  certificate  shall 
be  furnished  the  seller  showing:  {^a)  the  gross  weight  of  each 
bale  at  the  time  of  its  receipt,  {h)  the  number  of  ties  on  each 
bale,  and  {c)  the  weight  of  the  bagging  and  ties  on  each  bale. 
The  certificate  shall  also  state  that  the  bales  so  listed  were 
the  first  unloaded  of  the  mark  and  that  the  bagging  was  dry 
when  weighed.  The  average  gross  tare  per  bale  determined 
in  the  above  manner  shall  be  taken  as  the  average  tare  for 
the  entire  mark. 

46.  (Both.)   Form  of  Tare  Return. 

Tare  Test  on  B/C,  set  aside  191  

by  Mills,  being  part  of   bales 

invoiced  191   by  

Tag  Gross   Number  Weight         Weight  Gross 

Number  Mark.  Weight   Bands  Bands  Bagging  Tare, 

(optional).  of  Bale.  (optional).  (optional.). 


This  is  to  certify  that  the  above  statement  is  correct  and 
that  the  bales  hereon  listed  were  the  first  bales  of  this  mark 
unloaded  at  the  mill  and  that  the  bagging  was  dry  when 
weighed.  The  scale  on  which  they  were  weighed  was  last 
tested  and  certified  by  a  Sealer  of  Weights  and  Measures 
on  191... 


Note.  Printed  blank  forms  like  above  will  be  furnished  on  application 
to  the  New  England  or  the  Fall  River  Cotton  Buyers'  Association. 

47.  (Both.)  All  returns  for  tare  must  be  sworn  to  or 
signed  by  a  sworn  weigher. 

48.  (Both.)  The  allowance  for  tare  shall  be  an  average 
of  24  pounds  per  bale.  The  purchaser  shall  be  reimbursed 
for  all  tare  in  excess  of  this  average  at  the  invoice  value  less 

cent  per  pound. 


COTTON, 


53 


49.  (Both.)  All  claims  for  excess  tare  shall  be 
presented  within  20  days  from  the  date  on  which  the  average 
gross  tare  is  ascertained  as  above,  but  not  later  than  9  months 
from  the  date  of  the  receipt  of  the  cotton. 

50.  (Both.)  Excess  tare  claims  are  entirely  independent 
of  claims  for  loss  in  weight.  Gain  in  weight  of  the  cotton 
itself  may  not  be  applied  against  a  claim  for  excess  tare. 

CLAIMS— Grade  and  Staple  (Short*) 

51.  (Short.)  Claims  for  grade  or  staple  must  be  made 
as  soon  as  possible,  but  not  later  than  30  days  from  the  date 
of  the  receipt  of  the  cotton. 

52.  (Short. )  When  95  per  cent,  of  the  cotton  is  received, 
if  the  balance  of  the  shipment  does  not  arrive  within  30  days, 
claims  for  grade  or  staple  may  be  made  on  the  lot  as  a  whole 
on  the  average  of  the  cotton  received. 

53.  (Short.)  Claims  for  grade  on  any  portion  of  a  mark 
must  be  accompanied  by  samples  of  the  entire  mark.  If 
such  samples  are  not  furnished,  bales  not  exceeding  5  per 
cent  of  the  entire  mark  shall  pass  if  said  bales  are  not  more 
than  one-half  grade  *'off. 

54.  (Short.)  The  seller  must  be  notified  immediately  if 
the  cotton  shows  ''off  grade''  or  ''off  staple''  on  inspection. 
Such  notification  shall  not  be  delayed  until  the  entire  lot  is 
received. 

55.  (Short.)  Claims  for  allowance  on  difference  in 
staple  or  grade  of  short  staple  cotton,  except  IVie-lJ/s 
inches,  shall  be  settled  according  to  the  differences  existing 
at  the  time  of  shipment,  as  provided  in  Section  9. 

56.  (Short.)  Claims  for  allowances  on  differences  on 
cotton  sold  as  IVie-lH  inches  shall  be  settled  (except  in  case 
replacement  is  required,  as  provided  in  Section  61)  on  the 
prevailing  differences  existing  at  the  time  of  shipment, 
provided  no  more  than  15  per  cent,  of  the  mark  is  off. 

57.  (Short.)  If  more  than  15  per  cent,  of  the  mark  is 
off  grade  or  staple,  the  entire  number  of  bales  of  such  cotton 
shall  be  settled  for  by  the  seller  on  the  differences  existing  at 
the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  cotton. 

58.  (Short.)  The  above  terms  for  claims  on  grade  or 
staple  are  not  to  apply  to  long  staple  cotton,  vi{.,  1%  inches 
and  longer;  but  terms  for  tare  and  weight  shall  apply  to 
American  long  staple  cotton,  except  Sea  Island. 

CLAIMS— False,  Mixed,  Water-Packed. 

59.  (Both.)    In  case  of  false-packed,  mixed-packed  or 


54 


COTTON. 


water-packed  bales,  the  purchaser  shall  use  the  portion  of  the 
bale  that  is  right. 

60.  (Both.)  The  inferior  portion  is  to  be  used,  if 
possible,  at  an  allowance;  but  if  not,  the  purchaser  shall 
return  the  inferior  portion  with  tags  and  sworn  statement, 
and  be  paid  for  the  same  at  the  invoice  price  of  sale. 

REPLACEMENT. 

61.  (Both.)  If  cotton  is  rejected  by  the  purchaser  on 
account  of  its  being  a  quality  inferior  to  the  terms  of  sale, 
and  if  a  settlement  is  not  made  with  the  purchaser  at  an 
allowance,  replacement  shall  be  made  of  the  same  weight 
within  5%. 

62.  (Both.)  Replacements  must  be  shipped  promptly, 
but  in  case  of  scarcity  of  the  quality  required  the  seller  shall 
be  allowed  such  additional  time  for  replacement  as  he  may 
show  to  be  necessary,  but  in  any  event  not  over  30  days, 
except  by  agreement  with  purchaser. 

63.  (Both.)  All  actual  expenses  incurred  by  reason  of 
the  necessity  of  replacement  shall  be  borne  by  the  seller. 

ARBITRATION— Short  Staple. 

64.  (Short. )  In  cases  where  the  seller  and  the  purchaser 
cannot  agree  as  to  the  grade  or  staple  of  short  staple  cotton, 
redrawn  samples  shall  be  submitted  to  the  classers,  and  if 
their  decision  is  not  satisfactory  to  both  parties,  or  in  case 
any  dispute  still  exists  between  them,  the  matter  shall  be 
referred  to  the  Board  of  Appeal  upon  request  of  either  party. 

65.  (Short.)  No  person  interested  in  the  cotton  involved 
in  the  arbitration  shall  serve  as  classer. 

66.  (Short.)  The  purchaser  shall  pay  the  total  cost  per 
bale  of  the  arbitration  on  the  number  of  bales  that  are  found 
to  be  equal  to  the  contract,  and  the  seller  shall  pay  at  the 
same  rate  on  the  number  of  bales  found  to  be  not  equal  to  the 
contract.  If  a  bale  is  off  in  grade  and  up  in  staple,  the  seller 
pays  for  what  is  off  in  grade  and  the  buyer  pays  for  stapling. 

67.  (Short.)  In  all  cases  of  arbitration  between  a 
manufacturer  and  a  member  of  the  New  England  Cotton 
Buyers'  Association  or  a  member  of  the  Fall  River  Cotton 
Buyers'  Association  a  charge  of  15  cents  per  bale  shall  be 
made  for  classing  and  15  cents  per  bale  for  stapling.  For 
non-members  the  charge  shall  be  20  cents  for  classing  and  20 
cents  for  stapling. 

68.  (Short.)  In  all  cases  of  arbitration  the  names  of  the 
purchaser  and  seller  shall  not  appear,  nor  shall  the  identifying 


COTTON, 


55 


marks  of  the  cotton  be  known,  but  the  cotton  shall  be 
submitted  to  arbitration  under  bale  numbers  or  lot  numbers, 
as,  for  example,  ''Lot  No.  6." 

INSURANCE. 

69.  (Both.)  Unless  otherwise  specified  on  sale  note,  the 
purchaser  shall  cover  all  his  cotton  with  transit  insurance. 

70.  (Both.)  All  purchases  from  or  via  Atlantic  ports 
shall  be  based  on  the  ''rail  and  water''  insurance  rates. 

71.  (Both.)  All  other  purchases  shall  be  based  on  the 
"all  rail"  insurance  rates,  except  shipments  by  specified 
sailings  from  Gulf  ports. 

72.  (Both.)  The  purchaser  shall  be  reimbursed  for  any- 
extra  insurance  on  shipments  moving  from  or  via  Gulf  ports, 
except  when  the  cotton  is  sold  specifically  as  sailing  or 
shipment  from  such  ports,  in  which  case  there  shall  be  no 
claim  upon  the  seller  for  difference  in  the  insurance  rate. 

BURNT  OR  LOST  COTTON. 

73.  (Both.)  In  all  cases  where  cotton  is  lost  or 
destroyed  in  transit,  the  contract  shall  be  annulled  thereby  to 
the  extent  of  such  loss  or  destruction. 

CLAIMS— Grade  and  Staple  (Long.) 

74.  (Long.)  Claims  for  grade  and  staple  must  be  made 
within  15  days  from  the  date  of  the  receipt  of  the  last  portion 
of  a  shipment,  but  the  seller  must  be  notified  immediately 
if  the  cotton  shows  "off  grade"  or  "off  staple"  on  inspection. 
Such  notification  shall  not  be  delayed  until  the  entire  lot  is 
received. 

75.  (Long.)  Claims  for  allowances  on  differences  on 
staple  cotton  sold  as  13^  inches  or  longer  shall  be  settled 
(except  in  case  replacement  is  required  as  provided  in  Section 
61)  on  the  prevailing  differences  existing  at  the  time  of 
shipment,  provided  no  more  than  15%  of  the  mark  is  off. 

76.  (Long.)  If  more  than  15%  of  the  mark  is  off  grade 
or  staple,  the  entire  number  of  bales  of  such  cotton  shall  be 
settled  for  by  the  seller  on  the  differences  existing  at  the 
time  of  the  arrival  of  the  cotton. 

ARBITRATION— Long  Staple. 

77.  (Long.)  In  case  of  difference  of  opinion  on  cottons 
V/^  inches  or  longer  staple  sold  on  type,  the  purchaser  and 
seller  shall  each  choose  an  arbitrator.  These  two  arbitrators 
shall  agree  on  a  third,  and  if  these  two  cannot  agree  on  a 


56 


COTTON. 


third  arbitrator  they  shall  each  name  an  arbitrator  and  he 
shall  be  chosen  by  lot. 

78.  (Long.)  The  arbitrators  shall  each  be  paid  10  cents 
per  bale.  The  entire  cost  of  arbitration,  including  sampling 
and  other  expenses,  shall  be  borne  by  the  purchaser  and 
seller.  The  purchaser  shall  pay  the  total  cost  per  bale  of  the 
arbitration  on  the  number  of  bales  found  equal  to  the  contract 
and  the  seller  shall  pay  at  the  same  rate  for  the  number  of 
bales  found  not  equal  to  the  contract.  If  a  bale  is  off  in 
grade  and  up  in  staple,  the  seller  pays  for  what  is  off  in  grade 
and  the  buyer  pays  for  stapling. 

79.  (Long.)  In  case  of  any  difference  of  opinion  on  long 
staple  cotton  sold  on  description,  the  purchaser  and  seller 
shall  agree  on  a  type  as  a  standard  of  length  and  character 
before  submitting  the  same  for  arbitration.  The  arbitration 
shall  then  be  decided  by  three  arbitrators  as  provided  for  in 
the  case  of  long  staple  cotton  sold  on  type. 

80.  (Both.'  These  revised  terms  shall  take  effect  on  all 
sales  made  on  and  after  September  1,  1912. 


The  form  of  contract  sale  note  for  staple  gray  goods 
shown  on  pages  57  to  60  inclusive  was  approved  and  adopted 
by  The  National  Association  of  Cotton  Manfacturers,  and 
the  American  Cotton  Manufacturers'  Association  in  1910. 


COTTON. 


57 


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COTTON. 


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COTTON. 


59 


Paragraph  L— PASSING  OF  TITLE  ON  DELIVERY. 
Unless  otherwise  specified,  the  title  to  goods  sold  passes  to 
the  buyer  (subject  to  the  right  of  stoppage  in  transitu) : — 

a.  Upon  delivery  F.  0.  B.  to  carrier,  consigned  to 
buyer,  and  thereafter  goods  are  at  buyer's  risk. 
h.  Upon  arrival  of  goods  at  destination  and  delivery 
to  buyer  of  bill  of  lading  or  of  goods,  in  the  case 
of  goods  to  be  delivered  F.  0.  B.  elsewhere  than 
to  carrier. 

c.  Upon  delivery  of  indorsed  bill  of  lading  or  of  goods, 

in  the  case  of  goods  consigned  to  seller's  order. 

d.  Upon  the  separation  of   the  goods  and  holding 

subject  to  buyer's  order  (the  invoice  to  follow  by 
due  course  of  mail),  in  the  case  of  goods  to  be 
held  or  if  buyer  fails  to  give  shipping  instructions. 

Paragraph  II.— STORAGE  AND  INSURANCE.  Goods 
invoiced  and  held  subject  to  buyer's  orders  shall  be  at  buyer's 
risk,  but  covered  by  fire  insurance  effected  by  sellers  in 
reputable  companies. 

Paragraph  III.— REJECTIONS  AND  CLAIMS.  The 
buyer  cannot  reject  the  goods  for  delay  in  delivery  unless  he 
notifies  the  seller  within  five  business  days  from  receipt  of 
bill  of  lading,  or  of  invoice  if  goods  are  to  be  held.  When 
contract  calls  for  delivery  in  instalments,  the  buyer  cannot 
cancel  the  contract  for  any  default  in  any  one  or  more 
instalments  not  amounting  to  a  substantial  breach  of  contract, 
but  may  cancel  or  replace  at  seller's  expense  any  delivery 
that  is  delayed. 

Buyer  cannot  reject  goods  for  defects  in  quality  or  other 
like  defaults  (a)  if  he  cuts  or  converts  them,  nor  {h)  unless  he 
notifies  seller  within  ninety  days  from  receipt  by  him  or  at 
finishing  works  af  goods  not  held,  or  within  ninety  days  after 
date  of  invoice  if  goods  are  invoiced  and  held;  nor  [c)  unless 
such  defects  amount  to  a  substantial  breach  of  contract. 

Loss  of  right  to  reject  does  not  deprive  the  buyer  of  his 
right  to  claim  damages,  if  any;  but  no  recovery  shall  be  had 
on  any  claim  not  made  within  one  year  from  receipt  of  goods 
or  from  date  of  invoice  if  goods  are  held. 

ALLOWABLE  VARIATIONS  FROM  CONTRACT 

SPECIFICATIONS. 
WIDTH.    The  width  shall  not  vary  anywhere  by  more 
than  %  of  an  inch  below  the  stipulated  width,  nor  more  than 


60 


COTTON, 


%  of  an  inch  above.  The  width  shall  not  be  uniformly  less 
than  the  stipulated  width,  but  must,  in  a  majority  of  places 
in  each  piece,  be  equal  to,  or  greater  than,  the  stipulated 
width.  Goods  shall  be  measured  at  right  angles  to  the 
selvages  when  laid  open  on  a  flat,  horizontal  surface  and 
smoothed  out  by  hand,  but  not  stretched. 

WARP  COUNT.  Except  within  four  inches  of  each 
selvage,  (where  exclusive  of  the  selvage,  the  count  must 
approximate  that  stipulated)  the  number  of  warp  threads  per 
inch  shall  not  vary  anywhere  by  more  than  one  thread  per 
inch  below  the  stipulated  count,  nor  by  more  than  two  threads 
per  inch  above.  The  number  of  threads  in  each  piece  must 
equal  the  stipulated  count  multiplied  by  the  stipulated  width 
plus  the  extra  threads  used  in  the  selvage. 

FILLING  COUNT.  The  number  of  threads  in  the 
filling,  or  weft,  shall  not  vary  anywhere  by  more  than  three 
threads  per  inch  below  the  stipulated  count,  nor  by  more  than 
four  above.  In  the  case  of  sateens,  when  the  count  of  filling 
exceeds  the  count  of  the  warp,  the  allowance  for  variation 
above  specified  shall  be  increased  by  the  same  percentage  that 
the  filling  count  exceeds  that  of  the  warp  count.  In  any  case 
including  sateens,  the  filling  count  per  inch  shall  not  run  below 
the  stipulated  count  throughout  the  piece,  but  must,  in  a 
majority  of  places  in  each  piece,  equal  or  be  more  than,  the 
stipulated  count. 

WEIGHT.  In  case  of  controversy  regarding  the  weight 
of  goods,  decision  shall  be  based  on  goods  which  have  been 
exposed  for  twenty-four  hours  to  normal  atmospheric 
conditions  approximating  a  temperature  of  70  degrees  F.  and 
a  humidity  of  70  per  cent. 


A  cotton  mill,  whether  an  old  one  contemplating  additions 
to  its  existing  equipment  or  a  new  one  starting  to  build  a 
complete  plant,  should  employ  the  services  of  a  competent 
mill  engineer. 

The  question  of  proper  material,  situation  for  the  plant 
itself  and  the  relative  proportions  of  machinery  in  the 
different  departments  is  an  intricate  one,  and  a  great  deal  of 
money  can  be  saved  or  wasted  in  its  solution. 


COTTON  BALE  SHEARS, 


61 


In  the  designing  and  manufacture  of  cotton  machinery 
there  are  well-known  specialists.  The  machinery  field  is  too 
broad  and  complex  for  any  one  company  to  be  able  to  turn 
out  the  best  products  of  every  class.  Realizing  this  we  have 
devoted  our  energies  to  a  few  special  machines  and  feel 
confident  that  in  our  line  we  build  the  best. 


COTTON  BALE  SHEARS. 


When  the  cotton  bale  arrives  at  the  mill  its  contents,  after 
the  ties  that  hold  the  bale  together  have  been  cut,  are  started 
on  a  continuous  journey  through  the  mill. 

We  make  Cotton  Bale  Shears  that  are  specially  designed 
for  the  purpose  of  cutting  these  ties.  The  use  of  a  dull  axe, 
or  a  hammer  and  chisel,  for  this  purpose  is  dangerous  owing 
to  the  liability  of  fire  from  the  flying  of  a  spark  into  the 
highly  inflamable  contents  of  a  cotton  bale.  This  practice 
has  been  in  terms  objected  to  by  insurance  companies.  We 
have  sold  a  large  number  of  Shears,  and  they  have  given 
satisfaction. 


62 


PRE  PARA  TORY  PRO  CESSES. 


OPENING  AND  PICKING. 

One  of  the  most  important  things  to  be  considered  in 
laying  out  the  picker  room  is  the  care  that  must  be  taken  to 
prevent  fire.  The  action  of  the  swiftly  revolving  beaters  is 
very  liable  to  make  sparks  should  any  metallic  substance  be 
fed  in  with  the  cotton.  Hot  bearings  can  also  cause  fires  and 
should  be  guarded  against.  When  a  fire  does  start  it  is  as 
essential  to  keep  the  machine  feeding  out  from  the  beaters  as 
it  is  to  stop  the  cotton  from  going  into  the  beaters.  This 
obviously  diminishes  the  amount  of  cotton  burned  and  so 
reduces  the  heat  of  the  fire  and  the  resultant  damage. 

The  picking  machinery  is  the  heaviest  used  in  the  ordinary 
cotton  mill;  great  care  must  be  used  in  setting  it  up  and 
seeing  that  it  is  properly  leveled.  All  the  revolving  shafts 
should  run  freely  and  the  beaters  should  be  nicely  balanced. 

It  is  essential  that  an  even  lap  be  produced.  A  good 
clean  lap  cannot  be  made  with  an  over-crowded  machine  as 
there  is  neither  time  nor  opportunity  for  dirt  and  leaf  to 
separate  from  the  fibre.  Dirt  should  be  removed  from  under 
the  beaters  with  regularity,  and  cleanliness  in  this  department 
should  be  vigorously  enforced. 

The  use  of  modern  feeders  in  the  picking  room  has 
contributed  more  towards  a  thorough  opening  and  mixing  of 
the  fibre  than  any  other  single  improvement.  A  number  of 
the  mills  now  open  their  bales  in  the  storehouse,  and  by  the 
use  of  air  convey  the  cotton  to  the  picker  room  where  it  is 
distributed  to  the  various  machines  as  the  hoppers  get  empty. 


BELT  HOLE  GUARDS. 


63 


WOOD'S  BELT  HOLE  GUARDS. 

We  have  furnished  thousands  of  these  belt  hole  guards 
originally  patented  by  Mr.  B.  L.  Wood.  We  now  have 
a  large  variety  of  patterns  and  can  meet  the  exact 
requirements  in  each  individual  mill. 


For  Straight  Belts. 


These  belt  hole  guards  have  many  advantages  to 
recommend  them  to  the  mill  owner.  The  rotary  movement 
of  the  covers  of  the  guards  reduces  the  belt  hole  in  size; 
for  instance,  a  two  inch  cross  belt  requires  a  hole  about 
four  inches  wide  and  six  to  ten  inches  in  length.  These 
guards  reduce  the  opening  to  about  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  in  width  by  about  nine  or  ten  inches  in  length, 
making  a  reduction  in  the  area  of  the  opening  from  thirty-two 
square  inches  to  about  six  square  inches. 


For  Crossed  Belts. 


64 


BELT  HOLE  GUARDS. 


One  of  the  results  of  reducing  this  opening  is  that  cotton, 
waste,  yarn  or  any  other  articles  likely  to  be  on  a  mill  floor 
have  just  that  much  less  chance  of  passing  down  on  to  the 
machinery  below.  They  also  prevent  heated  air  from  passing 
from  the  lower  to  the  upper  room,  and  so  simplify  the 
problem  of  humidification  in  both  places. 


As  a  preventive  of  fire  damage  these  guards  are  endorsed 
and  recommended  by  the  Insurance  Companies.  If  a  fire 
should  happen  to  occur  near  them,  they  prevent  flames  from 
passing  either  up  or  down.  The  floor  of  the  room  where 
the  guards  are  used  can  be  flooded  to  a  depth  of  two  inches 
before  water  will  flow  through  the  openings.  In  this  way 
a  small  fire  in  an  upper  story  of  a  mill,  localized  and  put 
out  with  a  moderate  amount  of  water,  would  be  limited- to 
fire  damage.  The  practical  elimination  of  water  damage  in 
such  a  case  may  easily  amount  to  the  saving  of  more  than 
half  the  total  loss  suffered  if  the  belt  hole  guards  had  not 
been  used. 

In  addition  to  the  advantages  of  fire  protection,  and 
protection  from  the  various  articles  passing  through  the  belt 
holes  to  the  lower  floor,  these  guards  have  a  distinct 
advantage  in  their  effect  upon  the  belt.  They  prevent  the 
belt  from  twisting,  keeping  it  true  over  the  pulleys  so  saving 
power,  and  they  also  help  to  keep  the  belt  square  on  the 
pulley  and  prevent  the  belt  from  running  partly  on  the  tight 
pulley  and  partly  on  the  loose,  as  otherwise  often  happens. 

These  guards  are  so  designed  that  they  do  not  need  oiling, 
and  after  being  installed  require  no  attention. 


For  Slanting  Belts. 


OIL  CANS. 


65 


GnXCHELVS  IMPROVED 
THOMPSON  OIL- CAN. 

We  have  manufactured  oil-cans  for  over  fifty  years; 
during  this  period  our  product  has  been  unrivalled  for 
economy  and  durability.  Since  the  expiration  of  the 
Thompson  and  Getchell  patents  the  design  of  our  can  with  its 
removable  air  chamber  and  vent  tube  has  been  copied  by 
other  manufacturers.  Our  quality  of  material,  however,  and 
in  this  way,  the  durability  of  our  product  has  not  been 
copied,  and  the  oil-cans  made  by  certain  manufacturers  are 
sold  for  less  money  than  we  pay  for  the  raw  stock  of  which 
our  product  is  made.  These  cans  get  hard  use  in  and  around 
the  machinery  of  a  mill  and  a  substantially  made  can  is 
well  worth  its  extra  -cost.  We  urge  that  purchasers  give 
consideration  to  length  of  service  as  well  as  design  in  oil-cans, 
and  feel  sure  they  will  pay  the  original  introducers  of  the 
Thompson  can  a  price  that  will  guarantee  them  a  first  class 
durable  article.  See  that  your  Thompson  oil-cans  bear  our 
name. 

II 


66 


CARDING, 


Our  regular  sizes  are  designated  as  follows: 

Large  334  in.  high,  2%  in.  diam.,  holding  3  gills. 

Common  3  2^4  2 

Small  2%  2%  1 

Our  standard  length  of  tube  is  3^4  inches;  other  lengths 
are  made  to  order.  The  delivery  holes  in  the  tubes  are 
made  to  correspond  to  wire  gauge  numbers,  that  is,  a  number 
19  tube  has  a  hole  measuring  number  19  gauge.  Numbers 
19,  20  and  21  are  most  frequently  called  for. 


CARDING. 

The  organization  of  a  modern  card  room  consists  of 
revolving  flat  cards,  drawing  frames,  and  coarse  and  fine 
roving  frames.  Railway  heads  and  lap  winders  are  still  used 
to  some  extent;  the  increasing  use  of  Egyptian  and  other 
long  staple  cottons  has  led  to  a  greater  use  of 
combers.  Cards  are  designed  for  certain  speeds  and 
production  and  should  not  be  driven  beyond  their  capacity; 
no  machine  in  the  mill  is  as  sensitive  to  attempted  over- 
production as  a  card.  The  clothing  will  be  injured  and  the 
product  damaged  by  such  operation. 

As  card  clothing  plays  a  most  important  part  in  the 
results  gained  on  a  carding  machine,  only  the  best  grades 
should  be  used  and  the  grinding  should  be  carefully  attended 
to.  Plenty  of  time  should  be  taken  and  the  grinder  should 
have  only  what  he  can  do  carefully  and  thoroughly.  He 
should  be  urged  first,  to  be  sure  of  the  quality  of  his  work, 
making  the  quantity  distinctly  secondary  to  good  work. 
Grinding  once  in  two  or  three  weeks  keeps  up  the  standard 
of  the  product  and  fully  pays  for  the  time  and  labor. 

Roving  frames  should  be  carefully  set  up  and  firmly  in 
place.  All  the  parts  should  be  level  and  in  line.  The  sharp 
edges  of  the  steel  rolls  should  be  removed  by  rubbing  the 
rolls  lengthways  with  whiting  and  oil,  or  a  piece  of  card 
clothing.  All  bearings  should  be  properly  oiled,  being 
careful  to  leave  no  oil  where  it  can  damage  the  product.  The 
machines  should  be  run  some  time  without  work  in  them  to 
limber  up  all  the  running  parts;  each  spindle  and  flyer  should 


CARDING, 


67 


have  individual  attention.  If  in  this  preliminary  work-out 
any  weak  or  damaged  parts  are  discovered  they  should  be  at 
once  replaced  so  that  the  machine  will  start  producing 
without  a  weak  place  in  it.  Hot  bearings  damage  the 
machine,  are  productive  of  fire,  and  should  be  watched  for 
carefully.  Attention  to  the  covering  of  the  top  rolls  will 
detect  any  uneven  places  and  save  trouble  later. 

The  general  increase  in  the  use  of  metallic  rollers  is  in  a 
large  measure  doing  away  with  just  this  trouble. 


CARD  CLOTHING. 


English  Counts. 

Points  per  Square 
Foot. 

American  No.  of 
Wire. 

60s 

43,200 

28 

70s 

50,400 

30 

80s 

57,600 

31 

90s 

64,800 

32 

100s 

72,000 

33 

110s 

79,200 

34 

120s 

86,400 

35 

130s 

93,600 

36 

68 


CARDING. 


RULES  FOR  CARDERS. 
To  determine  the  number  of  hanks  or  decimal  parts  ofJianks  to  the  povndfor 
carding,  drawing,  stubbing,  roving  and  yarn,  according  to  a  given 
number  of  yards  reeled  or  measured: — 

Multiply  the  number  of  yards  by  8|  and  divide  by  their  weight  in 
grains;  the  quotient  will  be  the  hanks  or  decimal  parts  of  hanks  required- 
One  yard  of  No.  1  roving  or  yarn  weighs  8^  grains. 
To  ascertain  what  number  of  yarn  will  be  produced  from  a  given  drawing  or 
sliver: — 

Measure  off  a  convenient  number  of  yards  of  sliver,  multiply  this 
number  by  extent  of  drawing  on  roving  and  spinning  heads,  then  multiply 
by  8|  and  divide  by  the  weight  in  grains,  which  will  give  the  number  of 
yarn  produced  from  the  given  sliver.  Example:  Take  two  yards  of  sliver 
weighing  20  grains,  and  suppose  it  is  to  be  drawn  5  on  roving  and  10  on 
spinning. 

2x5xl0x8i=833.3,-f-20=No.  41.6,  the  number  of  yarn. 
To  determine  what  weight  a  given  length  of  drawing,  slubbing,  roving  or 
yarn  should  be  to  equal  a  given  number  of  hanks  or  decimal  parts  of 
hanks: — 

Multiply  the  given  number  of  yards  in  length  by  8^  and  divide  by  the 
number  of  hanks  or  decimal  parts  of  hanks  required ;  the  quotient  will  be 
the  weight,  in  grains,  of  the  given  length  of  drawing,  roving  or  yarn. 
To  number  the  yarn  produced  from  roving: — 

Reel  or  measure  off  a  convenient  number  of  yards  of  roving;  multiply 
this  number  by  extent  of  drawing  on  spinning  heads.  This  product 
multiplied  by  8§  and  divided  by  the  weight,  will  give  the  number  of  yarn 
which  would  be  made  from  the  roving.  Example:  Suppose  5  yards  of 
roving  weigh  20  grains,  and  the  draught  is  10.  Then  5x10x8|=416.6,-t-20= 
20.8,  the  number  of  the  yarn. 

Given,  the  weight  of  lap  from  the  picker,  and  draught  and  doublings  from  the 
card  to  the  spinning  frame:  To  find  the  weight  at  any  given  point  and 
number  of  yarn  that  will  be  produced: — 
Example:  Weight  of  lap,  9  oz.;  single  carding,  draught,  100;  railway 
head,  draught,  4;  doublings,  14;  first  drawing,  draught,  4,  doublings,  3; 
second  drawing,  draught,  4^,  doublings,  3;  slubbers,  draught,  4;  inter- 
mediates,  doublings,  2,  draught,  5^;  fine  frames,  doublings,  2,  draught,  6|; 
spinning  frames,  draught,  7^;  allowance  for  flyings  and  strippings  in 
carding,  12  per  cent. ;  allowance  for  take  up  by  twist  in  slubbing,  inter- 
mediate, fine  and  spinning  frames,      each,  or  about  f  in  all;  with  the 
following  result  :— 
9x437.5=3937.5  grains  in  1  yard  of  lap. 

3937.5-=-100=39.375  grains  in  1  yard  after  leaving  card,  were  there  no  loss. 
39.375 X. 88=34.65  grains  in  1  yard  after  deducting  12  per  cent,  for  flyings 
and  strippings. 

34.65x14-^4=121.27  grains  in  1  yard  after  leaving  railway  head. 
121.27x3-r4=90.95  grains  in  1  yard  after  leaving  first  drawing. 
90.95  x  3-=-4|=60.63  grains  in  1  yard  after  leaving  second  drawing. 
60.63-4-4x1! X  12=187. 76  grains  in  12  yards  after  leaving  slubbers. 
187.76x2-^-51X31=70.48  grains  in  12  yards  after  leaving  intermediates. 
70.48x2^1  X§f  =22.39  grains  in  12  yards  after  leaving  fine  frames. 
22.39-^7^ X  if  =3.081  grains  in  12  yards  after  leaving  spinning  frames. 
3.081x70=215.67  grains  in  1  hank  after  leaving  spinning  frames. 
700O-i-215.67=32.45  number  of  yarn. 

Rule:  Multiply  the  weight  in  ounces  of  one  yard  of  lap  by  437.5  (grains 
In  an  avoirdupois  ounce),  to  reduce  to  grains;  divide  by  draught  of  card 
and  multiply  by  to  give  weight  with  allowance  for  loss  in  carding;  for 
each  successive  process,  multiply  by  the  doublings  and  divide  by  the 
draught,  and  on  slubbing,  intermediate,  fine  and  spinning  frames  multiply 


CARDING. 


69 


by  if  to  allow  for  increase  in  weight  by  twist;  at  slubbers  multiply  by  12 
for  a  common  number  of  yards  to  weigh;  and  at  spinning  frames  by  70,  to 
give  weight  per  hank,  and  divide  7000  by  the  product  to  determine  the 
number  of  yarn. 

Note. — Roving  and  yarn  contract  in  twisting,  and  an  allowance  should 
be  made  for  this  in  all  computations  for  a  twisted  product.  This  allowance 
will  vary  with  the  number  of  the  yarn  and  amount  of  twist  put  in. 
To  find  the  weight  of  lap  required  to  produce  a  given  number  o^  yaruy  and 

also  the  weight  at  any  given  pointy  the  draught  and  doublings  being 
known: — 

Example  :    Suppose  the  draught  and  doublings  the  same  as  in  the 
preceding,  and  we  wish  to  produce  No.  32.45  yarn. 
7000-^32.45=215.71  grains  per  hank. 
215.71^70=3.081  grains  per  12  yards. 

3.081  xiiX 71=22.39  grains  per  12  yards  after  leaving  fine  frames. 
22.39X35X6|H-2=70.49  grains  i)er  12  yards  after  leaving  intermediates. 
70.49X32X5|-7-2=187.78  grains  per  12  yards  after  leaving  slubbers. 
187.78xMx4-7-12=60.63  grains  per  1  yard  after  leaving  second  drawing. 
60.63x4^-^-3=90.95  grains  per  1  yard  after  leaving  first  drawing. 
90.95x4-f-3=121.27  grains  per  1  yard  after  leaving  railway-head. 
121.27x4-^14=34.65  grains  per  1  yard  after  leaving  card. 
34.65X100X  ^5^=3937. 5  grains  per  1  yard  of  lap. 
3937.5-=-437.5=9  ounces  per  1  yard  of  lap. 

Rule :  Divide  7000  by  the  number  of  yarn  desired,  and  that  quotient  by 
70  to  give  the  weight  of  12  yards;  multiply  by  the  draught  of  each  machine 
and  divide  by  the  doublings ;  for  spinning,  fine,  intermediate  and  slubbing 
frames  multiply  by  f ^  to  allow  for  decrease  in  weight  by  taking  out  the 
twist;  at  second  drawing  divide  by  12  to  give  the  weight  of  one  yard; 
multiply  by  at  the  card  to  allow  for  loss,  and  divide  by  437-5  to  give 
weight  of  lap  required  in  ounces. 


The  tables  for  numbering  roving  which  follow  have 
been  extended  and  adapted  for  numbering  from  weights  in 
tenths  of  grains.  The  twist  in  all  cases  is  1.20  times  the 
square  root  of  the  number. 


70  CARDING. 


TABLE  FOR  NUMBERING  ROVING. 


12  yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

H  V 
rovin" 

12  yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Hank 
rovm^. 

12  yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Hank 
roving. 

12  yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Hank 
rovin^,. 

12  yds. 
we'igh 
grains. 

Hank 
roving. 

1. 

100.00 

9. 

11.11 

16. 

6.25 

23. 

4.35 

80. 

3.33 

.2 

83.33 

.1 

10.99 

.1 

6.21 

.1 

4.33 

.1 

3.32 

'a 

71.43 

.2 

10.87 

.2 

6.17 

.2 

4.31 

9 

3.31 

.6 

62.50 

.3 

10.75 

.3 

6.13 

.3 

4.29 

13 

3.30 

.8 

55.56 

.4 

10.64 

.4 

6.10 

.4 

4.27 

.4 

3.29 

2. 

50.00 

.5 

10.53 

.5 

6.06 

.5 

4.26 

.5 

3.28 

.2 

45.45 

.6 

10.42 

.6 

6.02 

.6 

4.24 

.6 

3.27 

.4 

41.67 

.7 

10.31 

.7 

5.99 

.7 

4.22 

.7 

3.26 

.6 

38.46 

.8 

10.20 

.8 

5.95 

.8 

4.20 

.8 

3.25 

.8 

35.71 

.9 

10.10 

.9 

5.92 

.9 

4.18 

.9 

3.24 

3. 

33.33 

10. 

10.00 

17. 

5.88 

24. 

4.17 

31. 

3.23 

.1 

32.26 

.1 

9.90 

.1 

5.85 

.1 

4.15 

.1 

3.22 

.2 

31.25 

•2 

9.80 

.2 

5.81 

.2 

4.13 

.2 

3.21 

.3 

30.30 

.8 

9.71 

.3 

5.78 

.3 

4.12 

.3 

3.19 

.4 

29.41 

.4 

9.62 

.4 

5.75 

.4 

4.10 

.4 

3.18 

.5 

28.57 

.5 

9.52 

.5 

5.71 

.5 

4.08 

.5 

3.17 

.6 

27.78 

.6 

9.43 

.6 

5.68 

.6 

4.07 

.6 

3.16 

.7 

27.03 

.7 

9.35 

.7 

5.65 

.7 

4.05 

.7 

3.15 

.8 

26.32 

.8 

9.26 

.8 

5.62 

.8 

4.03 

.8 

3.14 

.9 

25.64 

.9 

9.17 

.9 

5.59 

.9 

4.02 

.9 

3.13 

4. 

25.00 

11. 

9.09 

18. 

5.56 

25. 

4.00 

32. 

3.12 

.1 

24.39 

.1 

9.01 

.1 

5.52 

.1 

3.98 

.1 

3.12 

.2 

23.81 

.2 

8.93 

.2 

5.49 

.2 

3.97 

2 

3.11 

.3 

23.26 

.3 

8.85 

.8 

5.46 

.3 

3.95 

13 

3.10 

.4 

22.73 

.4 

8.77 

.4 

5.43 

.4 

3.94 

.4 

3.09 

.5 

22.22 

.5 

8.70 

.5 

5.41 

.5 

3.92 

.5 

3.08 

.6 

2i.'74 

.6 

8.62 

.6 

5.38 

.6 

3.91 

.6 

3.07 

.  4 

21.28 

.7 

8.55 

.7 

5.35 

'  .7 

3.89 

.7 

3.06 

.8 

20.83 

.8 

8.47 

.8 

5.32 

.8 

3.88 

.8 

3.05 

.9 

20.41 

.9 

8.40 

.9 

5.29 

.9 

3.86 

.9 

3.04 

5. 

20.00 

12. 

8.33 

19. 

5.26 

28. 

3.85 

33. 

3.03 

.1 

19.61 

.1 

8.26 

.1 

5.24 

.1 

3.83 

.1 

3.02 

.2 

19.23 

.2 

8.20 

.2 

5.21 

.2 

3.82 

9 

3.01 

.3 

18.87 

.3 

8.13 

.3 

5.18 

.3 

3.80 

;§ 

3.00 

.4 

18.52 

.4 

8.06 

.4 

5.15 

.4 

3.79 

.4 

2.99 

.5 

18.18 

.5 

8.00 

.5 

5.13 

.5 

3.77 

.5 

2.99 

.6 

17.86 

.6 

7.94 

.6 

5.10 

.6 

3.76 

.6 

2.98 

.7 

17.54 

.7 

7.87 

.7 

5.08 

.7 

3.75 

.7 

2.97 

.8 

17.24 

.8 

7.81 

.8 

5.05 

.8 

3.73 

.8 

2.96 

.9 

16.95 

.9 

7.75 

.9 

5.03 

.9 

3.72 

.9 

2.95 

6. 

16.67 

13. 

7.69 

20. 

5.00 

27. 

3.70 

34. 

2.94 

.1 

16.39 

.1 

7.63 

.1 

4.98 

.1 

3.69 

.1 

2.93 

9 

16.13 

.2 

7.58 

.2 

4.95 

.2 

3.68 

.2 

2.92 

13 

15.87 

.8 

7.52 

.8 

4.93 

.3 

3.66 

.3 

2.92 

.4 

15.62 

.4 

7.46 

.4 

4.90 

.4 

3.65 

.4 

2.91 

.5 

15.38 

.5 

7.41 

.5 

4.88 

.5 

3.64 

.5 

2.90 

.6 

15.15 

.6 

7.35 

.6 

4.85 

.6 

3.62 

.6 

2.89 

.7 

14.93 

.7 

7.80 

.7 

4.83 

.7 

3.61 

.7 

2.88 

.8 

14.71 

.8 

7.25 

.8 

4.81 

.8 

3.60 

.8 

2.87 

.9 

14.49 

.9 

7.19 

.9 

4.78 

.9 

3.58 

.9 

2.87 

7. 

14.29 

14. 

7.14 

21. 

4.76 

28. 

3.57 

35. 

2.86 

.1 

14.08 

.1 

7.09 

.1 

4.74 

.1 

3.56 

.1 

2.85 

.2 

13.89 

.2 

7.04 

.2 

4.72 

.2 

3.55 

.2 

2.84 

13.70 

.3 

6.99 

.3 

4.69 

.8 

3.53 

.3 

2.83 

.4 

13.51 

.4 

6.94 

.4 

4.67 

.4 

3.52 

.4 

2.82 

.5 

13.33 

.5 

6.90 

.5 

4.65 

.5 

3.51 

.5 

2.82 

.6 

13.16 

.6 

6.85 

.6 

4.63 

.6 

3.50 

.6 

2.81 

.7 

12.99 

.7 

6.80 

.7 

4.61 

.7 

3.49 

.7 

2.80 

.8 

12.82 

.8 

6.76 

.8 

4.9? 

.8 

3.47 

.8 

2.79 

.9 

19  fV5 
i<5.00 

Q 

Q 
.t7 

4.57 

Q 

.y 

O.-iO 

Q 

2.79 

8! 

12.50 

15. 

6.67 

22. 

4.55 

29. 

3.45 

36. 

2!78 

.1 

12.35 

.1 

6.62 

.1 

4.52 

.1 

3.44 

.1 

2.77 

.2 

12.20 

.2 

6.58 

.2 

4.50 

.2 

3.42 

.2 

2.76 

.3 

12.05 

.3 

6.54 

.8 

4.48 

.3 

8.41 

.3 

2.76 

.4 

11.90 

.4 

6.49 

.4 

4.46 

.4 

3.40 

.4 

2.75 

.0 

11.76 

.6 

6.45 

.5 

4.44 

.5 

8.39 

.5 

2.74 

.6 

11.63 

.6 

6.41 

.6 

4.42 

.6 

3.38 

.6 

2.73 

.7 

11.49 

.7 

6.37 

.7 

4.41 

.7 

3..S7 

.7 

2.72 

.8 

11.36 

.8 

6.33 

.8 

4.39 

.8 

3.36 

.8 

2.72 

.9 

11.24 

.9 

6.29 

.9 

4.37 

.9 

3.34 

.9 

2.71 

CARDING,  71 


TABLE  FOR  NUMBERING  ROVING. 


12  yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Hank 
roving. 

12  yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Hank 
roving. 

12  yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Hank 
roving. 

12  yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Hank 
roving. 

12  yds- 
weigh 
grains. 

Hank 
roving. 

37. 

2.70 

48. 

2.08 

66. 

1.54 

100 

1.00 

190 

.63 

.1 

2.70 

.2 

2.07 

.6 

1.53 

101 

.99 

192 

.52 

.2 

2.69 

.4 

2.07 

66. 

1.52 

102 

.98 

194 

.52 

.3 

2.68 

.6 

2.06 

.5 

1.50 

103 

.97 

196 

.51 

.4 

2.67 

.8 

2.05 

67. 

1.49 

104 

.96 

198 

.61 

.5 

2.67 

49. 

2.04 

.5 

1.48 

105 

.96 

200 

.50 

.6 

2.66 

.2 

2.03 

68. 

1.47 

106 

.94 

202 

.50 

.7 

2.65 

.4 

2.02 

.5 

1.46 

107 

.93 

204 

.49 

.8 

2.65 

.6 

2.02 

69. 

1.45 

108 

.93 

206 

.49 

.9 

2.64 

.8 

2.01 

.5 

1.44 

109 

.92 

208 

.48 

38. 

2.63 

50. 

2.00 

70. 

1.43 

110 

.91 

210 

.48 

.1 

2.62 

.2 

1.99 

.6 

1.42 

111 

.90 

212 

.47 

.2 

2.62 

.4 

1.98 

71. 

1.41 

112 

.89 

214 

.47 

.3 

2.61 

.6 

1.98 

.5 

1.40 

113 

.88 

216 

.46 

.4 

2.60 

.8 

1.97 

72. 

1.39 

114 

.88 

218 

.46 

.5 

2.60 

51. 

1.96 

.5 

1.38 

115 

.87 

220 

.45 

.6 

2.59 

.2 

1.95 

73. 

1.37 

116 

.86 

222 

.46 

.7 

2.58 

.4 

1.95 

.6 

1.36 

117 

.85 

224 

.45 

.8 

2.58 

.6 

1.94 

74. 

1.35 

118 

.85 

226 

.44 

.9 

2.57 

.8 

1.93 

.6 

1.34 

119 

.84 

228 

.44 

39. 

2.56 

52. 

1.92 

75. 

1.33 

120 

.83 

230 

.43 

.1 

2.56 

.2 

1.92 

.5 

1.32 

121 

.88 

235 

.43 

.2 

2.55 

.4 

1.91 

76. 

1.32 

122 

.82 

240 

.42 

.3 

2.54 

.6 

1.90 

.6 

1.31 

123 

.81 

246 

.41 

.4 

2.54 

.8 

1.89 

77. 

1.30 

124 

.81 

250 

.40 

.5 

2.53 

53. 

1.89 

.6 

1.29 

125 

.80 

256 

.39 

.6 

2.53 

.2 

1.88 

78. 

1.28 

126 

.79 

260 

.38 

.7 

2.52 

.4 

1.87 

.6 

1.27 

127 

.79 

265 

.38 

.8 

2.51 

.6 

1.87 

79. 

1.27 

128 

.78 

270 

.37 

.9 

2.51 

.8 

1.86 

.5 

1.26 

129 

.78 

276 

.36 

40. 

2.50 

64. 

1.85 

80. 

1.25 

130 

.77 

280 

.86 

.2 

2.49 

.2 

1.86 

.6 

1.24 

131 

.76 

286 

.85 

.4 

2.48 

.4 

1.84 

81. 

1.23 

132 

.76 

290 

.84 

.6 

2.46 

.6 

1.83 

.6 

1.23 

133 

.76 

296 

.34 

.8 

2.46 

.8 

1.82 

82. 

1.22 

134 

.76 

300 

.83 

41. 

2.44 

55. 

1.82 

.6 

1.21 

136 

.74 

306 

.83 

.2 

2.43 

.2 

1.81 

83. 

1.20 

136 

.74 

310 

.32 

.4 

2.42 

.4 

1.81 

.5 

1.20 

137 

.73 

316 

.32 

.6 

2.40 

.6 

1.80 

84. 

1.19 

138 

.72 

820 

.81 

.8 

2.39 

.8 

1.79 

•6 

1.18 

139 

.72 

330 

.30 

42. 

2.38 

56. 

1.79 

86. 

1.18 

140 

.71 

840 

.29 

.2 

2.37 

.2 

1.78 

.6 

1.17 

141 

.71 

850 

.29 

.4 

2.36 

.4 

1.77 

86. 

1.16 

142 

.70 

360 

.28 

.6 

2.36 

.6 

1.77 

.6 

1.16 

143 

.70 

370 

.27 

.8 

2.34 

.8 

1.76 

87. 

1.15 

144 

.69 

380 

.26 

43. 

2.33 

57. 

1.76 

.6 

1.14 

145 

.69 

390 

.26 

.2 

2.31 

.2 

1.76 

88. 

1.14 

146 

.68 

400 

.25 

.4 

2.30 

.4 

1.74 

.6 

1.13 

147 

.68 

410 

.24 

.6 

2.29 

.6 

1.74 

89. 

1.12 

148 

.68 

420 

.24 

.8 

2.28 

.8 

1.73 

.6 

1.12 

149 

.67 

480 

.23 

44. 

2.27 

58. 

1.72 

90. 

1.11 

150 

.67 

440 

.28 

.2 

2.26 

.2 

1.72 

.5 

1.10 

162 

.66 

460 

.22 

.4 

2.25 

.4 

1.71 

91. 

1.10 

164 

.66 

460 

.22 

.6 

2.24 

.6 

1.71 

.6 

1.09 

156 

.64 

470 

.21 

.8 

2.23 

.8 

1.70 

92. 

1.09 

158 

.63 

480 

.21 

46. 

2.22 

59. 

1.69 

.6 

1.08 

160 

.62 

490 

.20 

.2 

2.21 

.2 

1.69 

93. 

1.08 

162 

.62 

500 

.20 

.4 

2.20 

.4 

1.68 

.6 

1.07 

164 

.61 

525 

.19 

.6 

2.19 

.6 

1.68 

94. 

1.06 

166 

.60 

550 

.18 

Q 
.O 

2  18 

o 
.o 

i.Dl 

1  06 

168 

.60 

575 

17 

46. 

2!l7 

60. 

1.67 

95*. 

l!05 

170 

!59 

600 

;i7 

.2 

2.16 

.5 

1.65 

.5 

1.06 

172 

.58 

625 

.16 

.4 

2.16 

61. 

1.64 

96. 

1.04 

174 

.57 

650 

.16 

.6 

2.15 

.5 

1.63 

.6 

1.04 

176 

.57 

675 

.16 

.8 

2.14 

62. 

1.61 

97. 

1.03 

178 

.66 

700 

.14 

47. 

2.13 

.6 

1.60 

.5 

1.03 

180 

.66 

725 

.14 

.2 

2.12 

63. 

1.59 

98. 

1.02 

182 

.66 

775 

.13 

.4 

2.11 

.5 

1.67 

.5 

1.02 

184 

.64 

825 

.12 

.6 

2.10 

64. 

1.66 

99. 

1.01 

186 

.54 

900 

.11 

.8 

2.09 

.6 

1.55 

.5 

1.01 

188 

.53 

1000 

.10 

72  CARDING, 


TWIST  OF  ROVING. 


Hank 
rov- 

Square 

Twist, 
1.2X 

Hank 
rov- 

Square 

Twist, 
1.2  X 

Hank 
rov- 

Square 

Twist, 
1.2X 

Hank 
rov- 

Square 

Twist, 
1.2  X 

ing. 


root. 

sq. 

ing. 

root. 

eq. 

ing. 

root. 

sq. 

ing. 

root. 

eq. 

root. 

root. 

root. 

root. 

.10 

.316 

.38 

.80 

.894 

1.07 

2.20 

1.483 

1.78 

4.32 

2.078 

2.49 

.11 

.332 

.40 

!82 

!906 

1.09 

2.22 

1.490 

1.79 

4^36 

2.088 

2.51 

.12 

.346 

.41 

.84 

[917 

1.10 

2.25 

1.500 

liso 

4.40 

2.098 

2.52 

.13 

.361 

[43 

.86 

.927 

1.11 

2^28 

1.510 

1.81 

4.44 

2.107 

2*53 

.14 

!374 

I45 

*88 

!938 

l!l3 

2^31 

1.520 

1^82 

4^48 

2^117 

2^54 

.15 

.387 

'46 

[90 

.949 

l!l4 

2.34 

1^530 

1^84 

4^52 

2!  126 

2.55 

.16 

.400 

.48 

.92 

.959 

1*15 

2.37 

1*539 

1.85 

4^56 

2J35 

2.56 

.17 

.412 

.49 

.94 

[970 

1.16 

2!  40 

1^549 

1^86 

4!60 

2.145 

2.57 

.18 

.424 

.51 

.96 

!980 

l!l8 

2^43 

l!559 

1.87 

4.64 

2.154 

2.58 

.19 

.436 

.52 

.98 

*990 

1.19 

2^46 

1*568 

1.88 

4.68 

2.163 

2.60 

.20 

.447 

.54 

1.00 

1*000 

1.20 

2.49 

1*578 

1.89 

4.72 

2.173 

2.61 

.21 

.458 

.55 

1.02 

1.010 

1.21 

2.52 

1.587 

1.90 

4.76 

2.182 

2.62 

.22 

.469 

.56 

1.04 

1.020 

1.22 

2.55 

1.597 

1.92 

4.80 

2.191 

2.63 

.23 

.480 

.58 

1.06 

1.030 

1.24 

2.58 

1.606 

1.93 

4.84 

2.200 

2.64 

.24 

.490 

.59 

1.08 

1.039 

1.25 

2.61 

1.616 

1.94 

4.88 

2.209 

2.65 

.25 

.500 

.60 

1.10 

1.049 

1.26 

2.64 

1.625 

1.95 

4.92 

2.218 

2.66 

.26 

.510 

.61 

1.12 

1.058 

1.27 

2.67 

1.634 

1.96 

4.96 

2.227 

2.67 

.27 

.520 

.62 

1.14 

1.068 

1.28 

2.70 

1.643 

1.97 

5.00 

2.236 

2.68 

.28 

.529 

.63 

1.16 

l!077 

1.29 

2.73 

1^652 

1.98 

5.04 

2.245 

2.69 

.29 

.539 

*65 

1.18 

1.086 

l!30 

2.76 

1*661 

1.99 

5.08 

2.254 

2.70 

.30 

.548 

.66 

1.20 

1.095 

1^31 

2.79 

l!670 

2.00 

5.12 

2.263 

2.72 

.31 

.557 

.67 

1.22 

1.105 

1.33 

2.82 

1.679 

2.01 

5.16 

2.272 

2.73 

.32 

.566 

.68 

1.24 

l]ll4 

l]34 

2.85 

l!688 

2.03 

5.20 

2.280 

2.74 

.33 

.574 

..69 

1.26 

1.122 

1.35 

2.88 

1.697 

2.04 

5.24 

2.289 

2.75 

.34 

.583 

.70 

1.28 

l]l31 

1.36 

2.91 

1.706 

2.05 

5.28 

2.298 

2.76 

.35 

.592 

.71 

1.30 

1.140 

1^37 

2.94 

1.715 

2.06 

5!32 

2.307 

2.77 

.36 

.600 

.72 

1.32 

1.149 

1.38 

2.97 

1.723 

2.07 

5.36 

2.315 

2.78 

.37 

.608 

.73 

1.34 

1.158 

1.39 

3.00 

1.732 

2.08 

5.40 

2.324 

2.79 

.38 

.616 

.74 

1.36 

1.166 

1.40 

3.03 

1.741 

2.09 

5.44 

2.332 

2.80 

.39 

.624 

.75 

1.38 

1.175 

1.41 

3.06 

1.749 

2.10 

5.48 

2.341 

2.81 

.40 

.632 

.76 

1.40 

l!l83 

l!42 

3.09 

1.758 

2.11 

5.52 

2.349 

2.82 

.41 

.640 

.77 

1.42 

lll92 

l!43 

3.12 

1.766 

2.12 

5.56 

2.358 

2.83 

.42 

.648 

.78 

1.44 

1.2CK) 

1^44 

3.15 

1.775 

2.13 

5.60 

2.366 

2.84 

.43 

.656 

.79 

1.46 

1.208 

1.45 

3.18 

1*783 

2.14 

5.64 

2.375 

2.85 

.44 

.663 

.80 

1.48 

1.217 

1.46 

3.21 

1.792 

2.15 

5.68 

2.383 

2.86 

.45 

.671 

.80 

1.50 

1.225 

1^47 

3.24 

1.800 

2.16 

5.72 

2.392 

2.87 

.46 

.678 

.81 

1.52 

1.233 

l!48 

3.27 

1^808 

2.17 

5.76 

2.400 

2.88 

.47 

.686 

.82 

1.54 

1.241 

1.49 

3.30 

1^817 

2.18 

5.80 

2.408 

2.89 

.48 

.693 

.83 

1.56 

1.249 

1.50 

3.33 

l!825 

2.19 

5.84 

2.416 

2.90 

.49 

.700 

.84 

1.58 

1.257 

1.51 

3.36 

l!833 

2.20 

5.88 

2.425 

2.91 

.50 

.707 
.714 

.85 

1.60 

1.265 

1.52 

3.39 

l!841 

2.21 

5.92 

2.433 

2.92 

.51 

.86 

1.62 

1.273 

1.53 

3.42 

1^849 

2.22 

5.96 

2.441 

2.93 

.52 

!721 

!87 

1^64 

1*281 

1^54 

3^45 

1^857 

2^23 

6.00 

2.449 

2.94 

!53 

.*728 

!87 

1^66 

1^288 

L55 

3]  48 

1^865 

2.24 

6.04 

2.458 

2.95 

.54 

.735 

*88 

1^68 

1*296 

1^56 

3!51 

1^873 

2.25 

6.08 

2.466 

2.96 

.55 

.742 

!89 

1.70 

1I3O4 

l!56 

3!  54 

l]881 

2.26 

6.12 

2.474 

2.97 

.56 

!748 

.90 

1.72 

1.311 

1^57 

3.57 

1^889 

2.27 

6.16 

2.482 

2.98 

.57 

!755 

.91 

1^74 

1^319 

1^58 

3!60 

l!897 

2^28 

6^20 

2.490 

2.99 

.58 

!762 

!91 

1.76 

1.327 

1^59 

3.63 

1^905 

2.29 

6.24 

2.498 

3.00 

.59 

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[92 

1.78 

1.334 

1^60 

3.66 

1^913 

2I3O 

6.28 

2.506 

3.01 

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[93 

1^80 

1.342 

1^61 

3.69 

1^921 

2I3I 

6.32 

2.514 

3.02 

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[94 

1^82 

1.349 

1^62 

3^72 

1.929 

2^31 

6.36 

2.522 

3.03 

!62 

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[94 

1^84 

1.356 

1^63 

3^75 

1.936 

2^32 

6.40 

2.530 

3.04 

.63 

!794 

[95 

l!86 

1*364 

1^64 

3^78 

1^944 

2.33 

6.44 

2.538 

3.05 

.64 

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1^88 

1^371 

1^65 

3^81 

1*959 

2.34 

6.48 

2.546 

3.05 

!65 

!806 

*97 

1^90 

1*378 

1^65 

3^84 

1^960 

2I35 

6^52 

2.553 

3.06 

[(30 

!812 

*97 

1^92 

1^386 

1^66 

3*87 

1^967 

2^36 

6.56 

2.561 

3.07 

67 

819 

98 

1.94 

1.393 

1^67 

3  90 

1  975 

2  37 

6.60 

2.569 

3.08 

^68 

1825 

.*99 

l.*96 

1^400 

\M 

im 

l!982 

2.38 

6.64 

2.577 

3.09 

.ooi 

1  nn 

i.yo 

1  Aon 

i.oy 

Q  OA 

o.yo 

i.yyu 

/i.oy 

6  68 

2  585 

3  10 

.70 

.837 

1.00 

2.00 

1.414 

1.70 

3.99 

1.997 

2.40 

6J2 

21592 

an 

.71 

.843 

1.01 

2.02 

1.421 

1.71 

4.02 

2.005 

2.41 

6.76 

2.600 

3.12 

.72 

.849 

1.02 

2.04 

1.428 

1.71 

4.05 

2.012 

2.41 

6.80 

2.608 

3.13 

.73 

.854 

1.02 

2.06 

1.435 

1.72 

4.08 

2.020 

2.42 

6.84 

2.615 

3.14 

.74 

.860 

1.03 

2.08 

1.442 

1.73 

4.11 

2.027 

2.43 

6.88 

2.623 

3.15 

.75 

.866 

1.04 

2.10 

1.449 

1.74 

4.14 

2.035 

2.44 

6.92 

2.631 

3.16 

.76 

.872 

1.05 

2.12 

1.456 

1.75 

4.17 

2.042 

2.45 

6.96 

2.638 

3.17 

.77 

.877 

1.05 

2.14 

1.463 

1.76 

4.20 

2.049 

2.46 

7.00 

2.646 

3.17 

.78 

.883 

1.06 

2.16 

1.470 

1.76 

4.23 

2.057 

2.47 

7.04 

2.653 

3.18 

.79 

.889 

1.07 

2.18 

1.476 

1.77 

4.26 

2.064 

2.48 

7.08 

2.661 

3.19 

CARDING,  73 


TWIST  OF  ROVING. 


Hank 

TwiBt, 

Twiet, 

FT  fc 

Twist. 

Hank 

Twifit, 

Square 

1.2X 

rov- 

Square 

1.2X 

rov- 

Square 

1.2X 

Square 

1.2X 

ing. 

root. 

eq. 

ing. 

root. 

6q. 

ing. 

root. 

eq. 

ing. 

toot. 

eq. 
root. 

root. 

root. 

root. 

7.10 

2.665 

3.20 

10.62 

3.2o9 

0.91 

14.84 

3.852 

4.62 

19.  <  6 

A  AAK 
4.440 

5.3o 

7.15 

2.674 

3.21 

10.68 

3.268 

3.92 

14.91 

3.861 

4.63 

19.84 

1  IPil 
4.404 

5.36 

7.20 

2.683 

3.22 

10.74 

3.277 

3.93 

14.98 

3.870 

4.64 

1Q  QO 

iy.y4 

1  lAQ 
4.400 

5.36 

7.25 

2.693 

3.23 

10.80 

3.286 

QQl 

o.y4 

1  Pi  AP; 
10. UO 

3.879 

4.66 

OA  AA 

4U.UU 

1  170 
4.41 4 

Pi  Q7 

O.oY 

7.30 

O  7AO 

3.24 

10.86 

3.295 

Q  Q^i 

O.yo 

1  Pi  1  o 
10.14 

Q  QQQ 

,1  A7 
4.01 

OA  AQ 
4U.U0 

4.481 

Pi  QQ 
0.00 

7.35 

2.711 

3.25 

10.92 

3.305 

3.97 

15.19 

3.897 

4.68 

20.16 

1  IQA 

4.4yu 

5.39 

7.40 

2.720 

3.26 

10.98 

3.314 

Q  OQ 

O.yo 

1  Pi  OA 

10.40 

3.906 

4.69 

20.24 

1  IQQ 

4.4yw 

5.40 

7.45 

2.729 

3.28 

11.04 

3.323 

Q  QQ 

o.yy 

1  Pi  QQ 

10. OO 

3.915 

i  7  A 
4.  lU 

20.32 

1  fiAft 
4.0U0 

Pi  /II 

0.41 

7.50 

2.739 

3.29 

11  1 A 

ii.iU 

3.332 

A  AA 
4.UU 

1  Pi  lA 

10.  iU 

3.924 

A  71 

4.1 1 

20.40 

1  P»17 
4.01 1 

K  AO 

0.44 

7.55 

2.748 

3.30 

11  1  A 
ii.lD 

3.341 

A  A1 
4.U1 

1  Pi  ,17 
10. 4< 

Q  QQQ 
O.VOO 

A  70 
4. 1 4 

OA  AQ 

4U.40 

4.040 

Pi  AQ 
0.4o 

7.60 

O  7P:7 
/5.  / 0< 

3.31 

1 1  00 

Q  QP^ 

o.oOU 

A  AO 
4.U4 

1  Pi  Pi  1 
10.04 

Q  QIO 

o.y44 

A  7Q 
4. 1(3 

OA  PiA 
4U.  00 

4.534 

Pi  AA 
0.44 

7.65 

2.766 

3.32 

11.28 

8.359 

\  AQ 
4.Uo 

15.61 

3.951 

4.74 

20.64 

1  KIQ 
4.040 

Pi  AK 

0.40 

7.70 

O  77fi 

3.33 

11.34 

3.367 

A  A/1 
4.U4 

1  Pi  AQ 
lO.DO 

3.960 

A  7Pi 

4.  lO 

OA  70 

4U.  1 4 

1  KPiO 
4.004 

Pi  AR 

0.4d 

7.75 

8.34 

1  1  AC\ 
11. 4U 

3.376 

A  APi 
4.U0 

1  Pi  7Pi 

10.  i  0 

Q  QAO 

o.yoy 

A  7A 
4.  /  0 

OA  QA 

4U.0U 

4.561 

Pi  A17 
0.4/ 

7  QA 

O  7QQ 

4.  <yo 

Q  Q?i 

d.oo 

11  A(K 
11 .40 

3.385 

A  AA 
4.U0 

1  Pi  QO 

10.04 

3.977 

A  77 
4. 1  1 

OA  QQ 

4U. 00 

4.569 

Pi  AQ 

0.48 

<  .oO 

0  QAO 

Q  QA 
O.OO 

1 1  PiO 
11 .04 

Q  QQ  l 

o.oy  4 

/I  A7 
4.Ul 

1  Pi  QQ 

10. oy 

Q  QQA 

o.yoo 

A  7Q 
4. 1 0 

OA  QA 

4u.yo 

4^578 

Pi  AQ 

o.4y 

7.90 

O  Q1 1 

3.37 

1 1  PiQ 
11. Oo 

3.403 

A  AQ 
4.Uo 

1  Pi  QA 

lo.yo 

3.995 

4.79 

21.04 

4.001 

K  p;A 

O.oU 

7.95 

O  QOA 

3.38 

1  1  CKA 
11 .04 

Q  /110 

0.414 

A  AQ 

4.uy 

1  A  AQ 
iD.UO 

4.004 

A  QA 

4.0U 

21.12 

1  ^QA 

4.oyD 

Pi  >^1 
0.01 

O.UU 

O  QOQ 

Q  QQ 

o.oy 

1 1  7A 
11.  <U 

Q  ,401 

0.441 

A  1A 
4.1U 

1  A  1  A 
10.  lU 

4.012 

A  Q1 

4.01 

01  OA 

41. 4U 

4.604 

Pi  p;o 
0.04 

Q  A^ 

O  QQ7 

Q  ACi 

1 1  7A 
11.(0 

3.429 

A  1  O 
4:.  14 

1  A  1  7 
10. 1< 

A  A01 

4.041 

A  QQ 
4.OO 

01  OQ 

41.40 

4.613 

Pi  KA 
0.04 

Q  1  A 

O  Q  lA 

Q  /lO 

1 1  QO 
11.04 

Q  /IQQ 

o.4oO 

A  1  Q 

1A  Oi 
10.44 

A  AQA 
4.U0U 

A  Qi 
4.04 

01  QA 
41.00 

1  A09 
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A  PiPi 
0.00 

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4.000 

Q  /4Q 

1 1  CQ 
11. Oo 

3.447 

11/1 

1A  Q1 
10. Oi 

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4.00 

01  A  A 
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1 1  Q^ 
11. y4 

Q  4  PL  Pi 
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4.00 

01  PiO 
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4.639 

Pi  Pi7 
0.01 

0  Q70 

Q  \^ 
0.40 

1  0  AA 
14. UU 

Q  A(K\ 
0.404 

A.  1A 
4.10 

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1  Q7 
4.01 

01  AA 
41. OU 

4.648 

Pi  PiQ 
0.00 

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3.46 

12.06 

3.473 

A  1  7 
4.1( 

1  A  PiO 
10.04 

A  AA  4 

4.U04 

A  QQ 
4.00 

21.68 

4  656 

Pi  PiQ 

o.oy 

O.iJO 

0  QQA 

Q  <7 

10  10 
14.14 

Q  /1Q1 

O.401 

A  1Q 
4.10 

1A  PiQ 

10. oy 

A  A7Q 
4.UIO 

A  QQ 

4,oy 

01  7A 

41.10 

1  AA^ 

Pi  AA 

O.oU 

Q  lA 

0  QQft 

Q  ^Q 
0.4o 

1 0  1  Q 
14.10 

Q  /IQA 

A  1Q 

4.iy 

1  A  AA 
10.00 

A  AQO 
4.U04 

A  OA 

4.yu 

01  Q  ^ 
41.04 

1  fi7R 
4.D1 0 

Pi  A1 
0.01 

Q  Ar^ 

o.^ 

0  QA7 

Q  ^Q 

o.4y 

10  0.1 
14.44 

Q  /IQQ 

o.4yy 

4  OA 
4.4U 

1A  7Q 
10.  i  0 

A  AQA 

4.uyu 

A  01 

4.yi 

01  QO 

41. y4 

1  AQO 
4.004 

Pi  AO 

0.04 

ft  KA 
O.OU 

0  01  Pi 

Q  f^A 
O.OU 

1  O  QA 
14. oU 

Q  KA7 

A.  01 
4.41 

1A  QA 
10.  OU 

A  AQQ 

4.uyy 

A  QO 

4.y4 

00  AA 

44. UU 

1  AQO 
4.Dyu 

Pi  AQ 
0.00 

0.00 

0  QOl 

Q  r;i 

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10  QA 
14.00 

Q  PilA 
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A.  00 

4:.44 

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A  in7 

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4. yd 

00  AQ 

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1  AQQ 

Pi  A/4 
0.04 

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Q  PiOl 
0.044 

A.  OQ 
4.40 

1  A  01 
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1  1 1  A 
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00  1  A 

44.10 

A  707 
1  Ul 

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0.00 

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10  JQ 
14.40 

Q  KQQ 
0.000 

4  01 

17  ni 

1 1  .Ul 

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4.144 

1  Qp; 
4.yo 

00  0,1 
44.44 

4.716 

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0  QV4 

Q  KL 
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10  Pil 
14.04 

Q  Pill 
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4.25 

17  Aft 
11  .UO 

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4.IO0 

1  OA 

4.yo 

00  QO 
44.04 

1*794. 

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0.00 

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14. OU 

Q  KPiA 
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A.  OA 

17  Iri 

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A  ^  A^ 

4.141 

A  Q7 

4.y  1 

, 22.40 

1  7QR 
4. 1  00 

K  AQ 
O.DO 

Q  QA 

0  QAA 

Q  PiA 
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1  0  AA 
14.00 

Q  KP^Q 
0.000 

A.  07 

17  00 
11 .44 

1  1  PiA 
4.  IOU 

1  QQ 

4.yo 

22.48 

1  711 
4.  t  41 

Pi  AQ 

O.oy 

o.oO 

0  07Pi 

Q 

o.o< 

10  70 
14.  i  4 

P  PiA7 

1  Oft 
4.40 

17  00 

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1  1  PiQ 
4.100 

A  QQ 

4.yy 

22.56 

1  7r.O 
4.  IOU 

Pi  7A 

0.  lU 

Q  QA 

0  QQQ 

Q  p;q 
o.Oo 

1  0  7Q 
14.  lO 

Q  PL7Pi 
O.0(0 

A.  OQ 
4.4y 

I  7  QA 

I I  .oO 

1  1A7 
4.101 

Pi  AA 
O.UU 

22.64 

1  7nft 
'±'  lOo 

Pi  71 
0. 1 1 

o.yo 

O  OQO 

3.59 

1  O  Q  ^ 

14. o4 

Q  PiQQ 

o.Ooo 

1  QA 

1  7  /IQ 
11 .40 

4.175 

Pi  A1 
O.Ul 

22.72 

1  7A7 
4. 1D< 

5.72 

Q  AA 

Q  AAA 

Q  AA 
O.OU 

10  OA 

14. yu 

Q  KOO 

O.oy  4 

4  Q1 

1  7  PiA 
11. OU 

A  1  QQ 
4.IO0 

Pi  no 

0.U4 

22.80 

1  77Pi 

4.  n  0 

Pi  r-o 
0. 1  0 

Q  A?» 

y.uo 

Q  AAQ 
cJ.UUo 

Q  A1 
O.Oi 

1  O  QA 

14. yo 

Q  AAA 

1  QO 
4.04 

17  Pi7 
11 .01 

4.192 

Pi  AQ 
O.UO 

22.88 

1  7QQ 
4. 1  00 

Pi  r'A 
0.  i4 

Q  1A 

y.iu 

Q  A17 

Q  AO 

1  Q  AO 

io.U4 

Q  AAQ 

o.dUo 

1  QQ 
4.O0 

17  A  1 
11 .04 

A  OAA 
4.4UU 

Pi  A/1 

0.U4 

22.96 

1  709 
4.  iy4 

Pi  '~Pi 
0.  <  0 

y.io 

Q  AOPi 

Q  AQ 
O.OO 

1  Q  AQ 

lo.UO 

Q  A1  7 
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A.  Ql 
4.04 

17  71 
11. 1  1 

A  OAQ 
4.4U0 

Pi  APi 
O.UO 

28.04 

1  QAO 

Pi  7A 
0.  ID 

Q  OA 

Q  AQQ 

Q  A/1 
0.04 

13.14 

3.625 

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4.00 

1  7  7Q 

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4.216 

5.06 

23.12 

1  QAQ 
4.OU0 

5.77 

Q  O^N 

Q  A  /(1 

Q  APi 

O.oO 

13.20 

3.633 

A  QA 
4.00 

A  Q7 
4.0/ 

17.85 

4.225 

Pi  A7 

O.Ul 

28.20 

1  Q17 
4.011 

5.78 

Q  QA 

y.cju 

Q  Af^A 
CJ.UOU 

Q  AA 
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13.26 

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17  QO 

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4.233 

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23.28 

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4.040 

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Q  QJ^ 

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Q  APiA 

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4.00 

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4.241 

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o.uy 

28.86 

1  QQQ 
4.O0O 

5.80 

Q  /tA 

Q  AAA 
d.UDO 

Q  AQ 
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13.38 

Q  ap;q 
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A  QQ 

4.oy 

1  Q  AA 
10. UO 

A  OPiA 

4.40U 

Pi  1  A 

o.iu 

28.44 

A  QA^ 

4.041 

P;  Q1 

O.ol 

y.40 

Q  A7  < 
O.U<  -i 

3.69 

13.44 

3.666 

A  1 A 
4.4U 

18.18 

4.258 

Pi  1 1 
0.11 

23.52 

A  CfiA 
4.COU 

5.82 

Q  PiA 

y.ou 

Q  AQO 

Q  7A 
O.  /U 

13.50 

3.674 

A  A\ 
4.41 

18.20 

4.266 
4.274 

Pi  1 0 
0.14 

28.60 

A  QPiQ 
4.0.DO 

5.83 

y.oo 

Q  AQA 

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Q  71 
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13.56 

3.682 

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4.44 

18.27 

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28.68 

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4.000 

5.84 

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Q  AQQ 

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4.40 

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4.288 

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23.76 

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4.014 

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3.73 

13.68 

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4.44 

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4.291 

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28.84 

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5.86 

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4.40 

18.48 

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5.16 

28.92 

1  QQl 

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5.87 

Q  7P\ 

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Q  7Pi 
0. 1  0 

13.80 

Q  71  Pi 

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A  Ad 
4.40 

1 Q  p;x 

10.00 

4.307 

5.17 

24.00 

A  QQO 

4.oyy 

5.88 

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Q  1  QA 

Q  7A 
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13.86 

Q  70Q 

o.  ( 4o 

A  ,-17 
4.4( 

18.62 

4.315 

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O.lo 

24.08 

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5.89 

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Q  1  QQ 

Q  77 

1  Q  QO 

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Q  7Q1 

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A  iQ 
4:.  40 

1  Q  AO 

10.  oy 

4.328 

Pi  1 0 

o.iy 

24.16 

1  Ql  Pi 

4.yio 

5.90 

O  QA 

y.yu 

3.146 

3.78 

13.98 

3.739 

4.49 

18.76 

4.831 

5.20 

24.24 

A  QOQ 

4.y4o 

5.91 

Q  Qf; 
y.yo 

3.154 

3.79 

14.04 

Q  7/1'" 

A  KA 
4.0U 

18.83 

4.839 

Pi  01 

0.41 

24.32 

A  QQO 

4.yo4 

6.92 

10.00 

3.162 

3.79 

14.10 

3.755 

4.51 

18.90 

4.847 

5.22 

24.40 

4.940 

5.93 

10.05 

3.170 

3.80 

14.16 

3.763 

4.52 

18.97 

4.355 

5.23 

24.48 

4.948 

5.94 

10.10 

3.178 

3.81 

14.22 

3.771 

4.53 

19.04 

4.868 

5.24 

24.56 

4.956 

5.95 

10.15 

3.186 

3.82 

14.28 

3.779 

4.53 

19.11 

4.871 

6.25 

24.64 

4.964 

5.96 

10.20 

3.194 

3.83 

14.34 

3.787 

4.54 

19.18 

4.379 

5.26 

24.72 

4.972 

5.97 

10.25 

3.202 

3.84 

14.40 

3.795 

4.55 

19.25 

4.387 

5.26 

24.80 

4.980 

5.98 

10.30 

3.209 

3.85 

14.46 

3.803 

4.56 

19.32 

4.395 

5.27 

24.88 

4.988 

5.99 

10.35 

3.217 

3.86 

14.52 

3.811 

4.57 

19.39 

4.408 

5.28 

24.96 

4.996 

6.00 

10.40 

3.225 

3.87 

14.58 

3.818 

4.58 

19.46 

4.411 

5.29 

25.04 

5.004 

6.00 

10.45 

3.233 

3.88 

14.64 

3.826 

4.59 

19.53 

4.419 

5.30 

25.12 

5.012 

6.01 

10.50 

3.240 

3.89 

14.70 

3.834 

4.60 

19.60 

4.427 

5.31 

25.20 

5.020 

6.02 

10.55 

3.248 

3.90 

14.76 

3.842 

4.61 

19.67 

4.485 

5.32 

25.28 

5.028 

6.03 

74 


SPINNING, 


SPINNING  FRAMES. 

It  is  difficult  to  add  anything  to  the  advice  we  have  been 
giving  in  previous  years  as  to  the  use  and  choice  of  spinning 
frames;  conditions  have  not  changed  materially  since  the 
high  speed  spindle  was  generally  accepted.  Most  of  our 
recommendations  as  to  detail  of  construction  have  been 
adopted  by  the  regular  frame  builders.  As  our  position  is 
often  misunderstood  we  again  call  attention  to  the  fact  that 
we  do  not  build  spinning  frames.  We  furnish  other  builders 
with  spindles,  rings,  separators,  and  lever  screws,  and  also 
supply  them  for  repairs  of  old  frames. 

GENERAL  CARE  OF  FRAMES. 

New  frames  should  be  carefully  leveled  both  ways  before 
starting,  and  old  frames  should  be  gone  over  with  a  level  at 
intervals,  to  see  whether  they  need  re-leveling.  New  frames 
should  be  oiled  lavishly  for  several  days  before  starting 
spinning  and  well  cleaned  before  use  to  prevent  soiling  the 
yarn.  A  new  frame  should  be  scoured  after  running  a  few 
weeks,  wiping  out  all  the  bearings  carefully.  New  frames 
have  tight  fits  and  should  be  watched  to  see  that  the  cylinder 
bearings  do  not  get  hot. 

The  inspection  and  care  of  frames  should  be  systematic, 
starting  at  one  corner  of  the  room  and  taking  each  frame  in 
order. 

CARE  OF  ROLLS. 
New  steel  rolls  may  give  trouble  by  catching  fibre.  If 
so,  they  require  polishing  with  whiting  and  oil  or  sawdust  and 
oil.  The  whiting  should  be  mixed  with  animal  oil  until  it  has 
the  consistency  of  mush.  The  rolls  should  be  removed,  from 
the  frame  and  put  on  stands  made  for  that  purpose.  The 
flutes  should  then  be  filled  with  the  paste,  and  a  piece  of  card 
clothing  also.  The  clothing  should  then  be  rubbed  lengthwise 
of  the  flutes,  and  every  inch  of  the  roll  gone  over  at  least  five 
hundred  times,  keeping  the  card  clothing  well  filled  with 
paste  all  the  while.  If  a  roll  is  scratched,  a  fine  file  should 
be  carefully  used  before  it  is  scoured.  After  the  scouring,  a 
stiff  brush  should  be  used  to  thoroughly  clean  the  flutes. 
When  the  rolls  are  put  back,  a  piece  of  tallow  should  be 
crowded  in  between  the  neck  of  the  roll  and  the  stand.  Good 
spinners  scour  their  rolls  several  times  a  year. 

Leather  top  rolls  can  be  cleaned  while  running,  with  a 
sponge  dipped  in  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  alcohol  and 
water.  Back  rolls  need  not  be  cleaned  more  than  once  a 
week.    It  is  a  mistake  to  use  worn  rolls  as  middle  rolls. 


SPINNING, 


75 


The  middle  rolls  should  be  in  as  good  condition  as  the  front 
rolls.    Back  rolls  are  not  so  important. 

When  sending  worn-out  top  rolls  to  be  re-covered,  they 
should  be  cut  with  a  knife  so  as  to  spoil  the  leather  and  cloth 
as  well,  to  ensure  the  use  of  new  cloth  by  the  roll  coverer. 
The  leather  should  not  be  put  on  too  tight.  Rolls  perceptibly 
soft  to  the  **feer'  are  preferable. 

Extra  top  rolls  should  be  kept  in  boxes  made  to  hold 
them  perpendicularly  and  apart  from  each  other.  The  lid 
should  be  cushioned  on  the  under  side  to  prevent  damage  to 
the  rolls  in  transit. 

Back  and  middle  rolls  should  be  oiled  twice  a  week  on 
their  middle  bearings,  and  once  a  week  on  their  end  bearings. 
Rolls  should  be  placed  so  as  not  to  run  against  the  end  of  the 
lap.  The  condition  of  the  rolls  is  perhaps  as  important  as 
any  other  single  element  in  the  breakage  of  yarn.  Poor  rolls 
will  reduce  the  number  of  spindles  that  an  operative  can  tend. 
It  is  just  as  necessary  to  keep  the  saddles  oiled  as  the  end 
roll  bearings.  The  pressure  of  the  saddles  will  consume 
power  if  they  are  not  lubricated. 

Steel  rolls  should  not  be  allowed  to  accumulate  laps.  By 
keeping  the  steel  rolls  clean  there  will  be  much  less  trouble 
with  roving  winding  up  on  the  middle  roll.  If  laps  get  large 
enough  to  raise  the  roll  it  makes  cut  yarn.  Roving  on  the 
middle  roll  is  difficult  to  remove,  and  if  cut  off,  the  roll  is 
liable  to  be  roughened. 

ROLL  WEIGHTING. 
Stirrup  levers  should  never  rub  on  the  steel  rolls.  Weight 
levers  should  be  kept  level  so  that  the  weights  will  exert 
all  their  force.  If  the  weight  lever  sags,  the  weight  wires 
may  rest  on  the  creel  board.  The  Speakman  lever  screw 
is  the  best  device  known  for  keeping  the  position  of  the 
stirrups  and  weight  levers  properly  regulated. 

ROVING  GUIDES. 
Roving  guides  should  be  carefully  inspected  to  see  that 
that  they  are  not  bent  or  loose,  and  therefore  delivering  too 
near  each  other.  If  too  near,  a  broken  end  may  run  in  and 
make  double  yarn  which,  if  it  gets  into  the  cloth,  may  make 
a  second  and  cause  loss.  The  roving  guide  traverse  should 
be  kept  in  order  so  that  there  will  be  no  dwell  at  the  ends  of 
the  traverse,  thereby  wearing  ridges  in  the  leather  rolls. 

GUIDE  WIRES. 
Guide  wires  should  be  set  so  that  they  will  deliver 
directly  over  the  center  of  the  spindles.   If  the  spindles  are 


76 


SPINNING. 


changed  in  adjustment,  the  guide  wires  must  also  be  changed. 
Guide  wires  should  not  be  used  after  they  are  creased.  They 
should  be  formed  so  as  to  catch  kinks,  or  else  have  a  separate 
kink  catcher  attached  to  the  guide  wire  board.  The  modern 
stamped  metal  guide  wire  boards  are  now  in  general  use  as 
are  guide  board  lifters  and  have  special  advantages. 

SEPARATORS. 
Separators  after  once  set  practically  look  after  themselves. 
They  should  be  kept  clean,  and  if  the  blades  get  bent  out  of 
shape,  they  should  be  straightened. 

RINGS. 

Rings  should  properly  be  set  with  the  spindle  in  the  exact 
centre.  They  will  wear  more  quickly  if  out  of  centre,  and 
will  break  more  ends.  Rings  are  today  mostly  of  the  double 
flange  style,  and  the  majority  are  used  with  plate  holders. 
Some  mills  test  their  rings  for  roundness,  and  refuse  those 
badly  out  of  round. 

If  rings  are  not  made  of  proper  stock  or  properly 
hardened,  they  will  wear  out  rapidly,  and  no  ring 
manufacturer  has  yet  succeeded  in  absolutely  ensuring 
uniformity  in  ring  stock  at  all  times.  Modern  high  speeds 
and  the  change  to  finer  yarns  make  extra  demands  on  ring 
service,  for  small  travelers  wear  rings  faster  than  heavy 
travelers.  Both  rings  and  ring  rails  get  more  or  less  gummy 
and  dirty  in  use.  The  entire  ring  rail  with  its  rings  can  be 
scoured  and  cleaned  by  having  a  trough  of  proper  section 
made,  in  which  the  whole  rail  may  be  washed  in  a  hot  solution 
of  potash  or  sal  soda,  letting  the  rail  soak  at  least  half  an 
hour.    It  can  be  rinsed  later  with  hot  water. 

Some  spinners  will  not  take  the  trouble  to  turn  rings  over 
to  use  the  good  flange  after  the  top  one  is  worn.  As  ring 
manufacturers,  we  should  have  no  objection  to  this  practice  ; 
but  it  is  hardly  economical.  New  rings  have  always  started 
harder  than  old  ones,  no  matter  what  the  method  of  polishing 
or  burnishing.  This  requires  the  use  of  lighter  travelers  at 
the  start,  and  probably  reduces  the  speed  of  the  frame, 
which  is  generally  set  to  starting  conditions. 

Traveler  clearers  should  be  kept  in  proper  relative 
position.  Sometimes  they  get  bent  or  loosened,  according  to 
the  style  of  device  used  for  the  purpose. 

The  ring  rail  should  be  kept  level,  so  that  the  travelers 
will  move  around  on  the  rings  in  a  horizontal  plane.  Careful 
inspection  with  use  of  a  spirit  level  will  assist  in  finding 
errors. 


SPINNING, 


77 


TRAVELERS. 
Some  spinners  put  on  new  travelers  when  the  old  ones 
break  off,  and  others  replace  whole  sets  at  intervals. 
Spinners  can  be  taught  to  detect  worn  travelers  by  feeling  of 
them  when  piercing  an  end,  and  if  they  make  the  change  at 
this  time  they  save  themselves  trouble,  providing  they  are 
running  on  the  first  mentioned  plan.  Until  recent  years,  it 
has  been  customary  to  use  the  same  bow  travelers  and  the 
same  size  ring  flange  for  nearly  all  yarn  numbers.  It  has 
been  found  preferable  to  use  narrow  flanges  with  small  bow 
travelers  for  light  yarn. 

It  is  difficult  to  give  advice  on  the  weight  of  travelers  as 
the  conditions  of  spinning  vary  so  much.  Light  travelers 
make  more  elastic  yarn,  but  it  is  not  always  true  that  light 
travelers  will  reduce  end  breakage.  Heavy  travelers  get 
more  momentum  and  help  out  on  weak  spots  in  the  yarn 
through  the  very  momentum  obtained.  A  heavy  traveler 
winds  a  harder  bobbin.  Any  overseer  can  make  his  own 
experiments  by  trying  different  travelers  on  different  frames, 
keeping  a  record  of  the  ends  broken  down  while  running  and 
while  doffing. 

LIFTING  RODS. 
Lifting  rods  are  often  too  tight  on  new  frames,  and 
should  be  carefully  watched  at  the  start.    Later,  they  may 
stick  from  dirt  or  lint  getting  into  the  bearings,  and  a 
protection  like  the  Shaw  and  Flynn  cleaner  is  advisable. 

SPINDLES. 

New  frames  should  have  their  spindles  banded  and  run 
bare  for  some  hours  before  they  are  set  to  the  rings.  They 
will  need  liberal  oiling  at  the  start,  and  for  the  first  two 
weeks  at  least. 

In  setting  spindles  to  rings,  it  is  customary  to  use  a 
bobbin  with  a  wooden  cylinder  attached,  made  slightly  less 
than  the  rings'  inside  diameter.  Some  spindle  setters  place 
the  ring  rail  at  the  middle  of  the  bobbin  when  setting,  so  that 
any  variation  between  top  and  bottom  is  divided.  A  more 
accurate  method  is  to  set  spindles  to  the  rings  at  the  bottom, 
then  run  the  rail  up.  Any  spindles  not  found  in  the  center  of 
the  rings  will  now  need  papering,  as  they  are  not  in  proper 
line.  By  running  the  rail  up  and  down  a  few  times  and 
re-papering,  spindles  can  be  made  to  run  in  the  center  of  the 
rings  at  all  points.  The  method  of  using  a  spirit  level  on  top 
of  a  spindle  is  not  absolutely  correct  to  meet  the  conditions 
for  the  lifting  rods  may  not  be  perpendicular.    Some  setters 


78 


SPINNING, 


set  the  spindles  with  wooden  bobbins  at  the  center  of  the 
traverse  and  then  let  full  bobbins  be  spun,  noting  whether 
the  rings  are  central  by  seeing  how  the  bobbins  run  in  the 
rings.  Never  forget  that  the  guide  wires  need  careful 
re-setting  after  the  setting  of  the  spindles  is  accomplished. 
Where  only  a  few  spindles  are  changed  in  position  this  is 
sometimes  forgotten. 

Spindles  that  vibrate  indicate  bad  bobbins,  crooked 
blades,  poor  fit  of  bolsters  or  dry  bearings.  A  spindle  fault 
will  often  be  corrected  by  supplying  a  different  bolster. 
While  a  vibrating  spindle  may  be  crooked,  it  does  not  follow 
that  all  crooked  spindles  will  vibrate,  for  the  loose  bearings 
used  accommodate  themselves  to  faults  in  the  spindle.  A 
spindle  which  runs  well  without  a  bobbin  and  badly  with  a 
bobbin,  usually  signifies  some  fault  in  the  bobbin  itself, 
unless  tests  with  several  bobbins  show  the  trouble  is 
elsewhere.  Lack  of  oil  will  make  any  spindle  vibrate, 
whether  straight  or  crooked.  A  vibrating  spindle  wastes  its 
oil  rapidly.  This  can  be  shown  by  holding  a  piece  of  paper 
opposite  the  edge  of  the  whorl.  All  spindles  waste  oil  more 
or  less,  though  we  have  found  by  actual  tests  that  our  snout 
spindles  can  run  at  least  two  months,  if  properly  oiled  at  the 
start.  We  do  not  mean  that  it  is  safe  to  let  them  run  that 
length  of  time,  for  oilers  are  careless.  The  oil  that  is  wasted 
by  running  over  the  base,  and  also  by  being  thrown  off  the 
whorl,  is  not  necessarily  a  disadvantage.  The  bands  absorb 
considerable  of  it  from  the  air,  and  this  causes  the  fibres  of 
the  bands  to  lie  closely,  and  the  bands  wear  longer.  We 
know  this  for  we  have  tested  spindles  that  used  no  oil,  and 
their  bands  would  wear  very  rapidly  by  perceptibly  throwing 
off  loose  fibres. 

As  to  choice  of  oil  for  spindles,  we  know  of  mills  using 
heavy  oil  because  they  had  bad  bobbins  which  caused  the 
spindles  to  vibrate  and  therefore  waste  oil  excessively. 
Heavy  oil  consumes  large  amounts  of  power.  Our  own 
experience  leads  us  to  recommend  light  gravity  oils,  from  30 
to  35.  The  price  should  be  a  small  consideration,  for  cheap 
oil  can  prove  expensive  in  many  ways.  We  have  found 
spindles  so  rusty  from  use  of  oil  with  moisture  in  it  that  they 
used  fifty  per  cent,  more  power  than  the  same  spindles  used 
after  cleaning.  Moisture  in  oil  stains  it  a  dirty,  brownish 
color.  Some  oils  gum  and  stick,  leaving  a  varnish  like 
deposit  on  the  spindle  which  increases  the  power  required  to 
drive  it,  English  spinners  make  a  practice  of  cleaning  out 
spindle  bases  so  frequently  that  their  spindles  are  often 
arranged  so  that  the  lower  end  of  the  base  can  be  removed. 


SPINNING, 


79 


We  believe  this  unnecessary  if  good  oil  is  used.  If  poor  oil 
has  been  used,  it  will  pay  to  clean  the  spindles  thoroughly. 
This  may  be  done  by  taking  bolsters  out  and  soaking  them  in 
benzine,  naphtha,  gasoline,  or  whatever  the  name  may  be  for 
the  cleaning  fluid  ;  or  they  can  be  cleaned  by  blowing  a  steam 
jet  through  them.  The  spindle  bases  can  be  pumped  out  by  a 
syringe,  and  if  there  is  much  dirt  in  the  bottom  it  can  be 
swabbed  out  by  waste  on  a  stick.  Bases  can  also  be  removed 
and  cleaned  with  a  steam  jet  if  that  is  thought  preferable. 

The  second  hand  should  be  held  responsible  for  the 
correction  of  vibrating  spindles.  With  the  Draper  type,  the 
adjustment  of  the  bearing  usually  corrects  vibration.  With 
other  types,  new  bolsters  may  be  necessary,  and  with  either 
type,  a  badly  crooked  spindle  should  be  replaced.  Spindle 
bases  should  be  kept  reasonably  clean,  for  the  lint  sometimes 
gets  sucked  in  between  the  whorl  and  the  base  to  such  an 
extent  as  to  slow  the  spindle  and  make  slack  yarn. 

BANDING. 

On  new  frames,  the  cylinder  will  wear  bands  rapidly. 
Bands  will  also  wear  faster  than  usual  when  driving  bare 
spindles  in  starting  up  a  frame.  Care  should  be  taken  to  see 
that  bands  are  made  of  uniform  weight.  If  the  band  boy 
gets  careless,  he  may  neglect  to  put  the  proper  number  of 
strands  in  the  band.  With  marked  bands,  spindles  can  be 
banded  while  running  without  necessarily  having  the  tension 
too  tight. 

We  have  always  recommended  a  band  pull  of  two  pounds 
for  the  ordinary  size  spindle.  This  does  not  mean  that  the 
band  should  only  pull  two  pounds  when  put  on.  It  should 
then  pull  from  three  to  four  pounds,  according  to  the  size. 
We  believe  in  light  bands,  as  they  cannot  be  tied  too  tightly, 
and  also  because  they  will  break  of  themselves  if  getting  too 
tight  in  use.  Bands  act  curiously  in  use,  some  growing 
slacker  through  stretching,  and  others  growing  tighter 
through  absorption  of  oil  and  by  loading  up  with  lint.  If 
bands  are  near  a  vibrating  spindle,  they  will  get  more  oil 
than  usual  and  these  bands  will  grow  tighter  than  others. 
Spinners  have  advised  brushing  the  cylinders  at  periods 
to  prevent  accumulation  of  lint  by  the  bands.  Inspection 
should  prevent  the  making  of  slack  yarn  through  too  slack 
bands;  slack  yarn  is  one  of  the  greatest  evils  in  cotton  mill 
practice.  It  should  be  detected  by  the  spinner  or  the  spooler 
tender,  but  sometimes  it  gets  by  into  the  warp  where  one  end 
may  cause  the  weaver  continual  labor  and  trouble  until  the 
whole  warp  is  woven  out.    The  second  hand  should  go  over 


80 


SPINNING, 


the  bands  when  frames  are  stopped  for  cleaning,  cutting  off 
all  which  are  too  tight  or  too  loose. 

Recently  a  number  of  frame  makers  have  furnished  frames 
with  the  spindles  driven  by  tape,  with  an  idler  to  take  up  the 
slack.  The  advantage  gained  is  in  having  a  greater  driving 
surface  on  the  whorl  and  in  the  more  even  tension  of  the 
tape.  Frames  have  also  been  introduced  using  a  round  band 
to  drive  four  spindles  and  an  idler  interposed  to  take  up  the 
slack.  This  style  of  banding  has  not  gone  into  general  use 
as  yet. 

BOBBINS. 

New  bobbins  should  be  tested  before  use,  as  they  may 
change  materially  after  shipment.  They  should  also  be 
tested  at  intervals  while  in  use.  Bad  bobbins  not  only  make 
spindles  vibrate,  wasting  their  oil  and  running  dry,  but  they 
also  rise  on  the  spindles,  causing  the  yarn  to  run  down  over 
the  bottom  and  also  making  slack  yarn.  Bobbins  may  also 
be  perfectly  concentric  and  straight,  but  rise  on  the  spindles 
because  they  do  not  fit  properly.  There  are  many  conflicting 
theories  about  the  proper  fit  of  bobbins.  The  same  theory 
will  not  fit  all  cases,  for  spindles  vary  in  design.  Short 
spindles  usually  have  a  tapering  top,  while  long  spindles 
have  a  cylindrical  top.  Bobbins  will  often  drive  well  with  a 
taper  top  spindle  fitting  closely  at  the  top,  while  they  might 
drive  better  on  a  cylindrical  top  spindle  if  fitting  loosely.  It 
is  not  intended  that  the  bobbin  should  be  driven  by  the  cup, 
although  it  does  no  harm  if  the  bobbin  fits  both  the  cup  and 
the  whorl.  If  the  bobbin  is  too  small  for  the  whorl  and  gets 
wedged  down  on  it,  it  will  often  shake  loose  and  rise  much 
worse  than  a  bobbin  which  fits  loosely.  If  a  bobbin  is  to  fit 
loosely  at  the  whorl,  it  should  fit  tight  at  the  top.  Poor 
bobbins  can  be  reamed,  but  they  should  be  tested  after 
reaming  and  thrown  away  if  they  do  not  then  run  well. 

Bobbins  should  be  made  from  thoroughly  seasoned  stock . 
Warp  bobbins  should  be  at  least  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  in 
diameter,  for  yarns  number  28  and  under.  They  should  have 
some  protection  at  the  bottom  in  the  shape  of  a  ring  or  its 
equivalent  to  prevent  splitting.  The  upper  bearing  should  be 
at  least  three  quarters  of  an  inch  long.  Bobbins  ought  to 
be  oil  soaked  as  well  as  shellacced.  The  difference  in  life 
will  more  than  offset  the  difference  in  cost. 

Hastings'  patent  metal  bushed  filling  bobbin  introduced 
by  us  is  of  importance  on  Northrop  Looms.  The  feature  of 
its  construction  is  the  insertion  of  a  metal  bushing  in  the  base 
of  the  bobbin  opposite  the  rings  on  the  exterior.  This 


SPINNING. 


81 


bushing  co-operates  with  the  rings  to  hold  the  wood  in  place 
when  subjected  to  extremes  of  heat  or  moisture  and  thus 
secures  greater  durability. 

Bobbins  for  use  with  centrifugal  clutch  spindles  should  be 
made  with  the  hole  in  the  base  of  such  size  that  its  diameter 
is  larger  than  the  spindle  clutch  when  closed  and  smaller 
than  the  clutch  when  opened.  This  reduces  the  amount  of 
reaming  and  also  allows  the  bobbins  to  be  carried  at  a  uniform 
level  on  the  spindles.  This  has  two  advantages;  it  gives  the 
full  length  of  traverse  and  maximum  load  on  the  bobbin;  and 
where  the  filhng  feeler  is  used  locates  the  bunch  at  the 
proper  point  on  all  the  bobbins;  the  hole  at  the  bottom  of  the 
bobbins  should  be  slightly  rounded  over  or  chamfered  on  the 
inside. 

At  the  tops  the  fit  should  be  such  that  the  bobbins  will 
drop  down  on  the  spindle,  but  not  to  be  loose  enough  to 
vibrate.  The  length  of  the  top  bearing  should  not  be  less 
than  one  and  one-eighth  inches;  this  measurement  to  be  the 
actual  bearing  on  the  spindle.  With  the  spindle  having  six 
inch  blade  and  straight  bearing  at  the  top,  the  bottom  of  top 
bearing  in  the  bobbin  should  clear  the  top  of  shoulder  on  the 
spindle  one-eighth  inch. 

The  bottom  of  the  bobbin  where  bored  out  to  take  in  the 
expanding  segments  which  make  up  the  centrifugal  clutch 
should  be  bored  sufficiently  deep  so  that  it  cannot  by  any 
possibility  come  down  on  to  the  top  of  the  segments.  To 
insure  this  result  the  depth  of  the  bore  should  be  at  least 
one-eighth  inch  more  than  the  distance  from  the  top  of  the 
segments  to  the  shoulder  of  the  spindle  on  which  the  bottom 
of  the  bobbin  rests. 


GENERAL  DETAILS. 
Loose  pulleys  should  have  their  collars  set  snugly  and 
their  bearings  kept  well  fitted.  They  should  be  a  little  less 
in  diameter  than  the  tight  pulleys,  as  they  do  no  work  and  do 
not  need  so  tight  a  belt,  A  shaking  pulley  can  communicate 
wear  and  vibration  to  the  whole  frame.  The  driving  pulley 
should  be  of  good  size,  else  it  will  need  a  tight  belt, 
consuming  more  power  at  the  cylinder  bearing.  If  frames 
are  to  run  at  high  speed,  they  should  have  large  cylinders, 
even  if  this  necessitates  wider  frames.  The  improvement  in 
rings  and  spindles  allows  an  increase  in  speed  beyond  the  old 
standards.  Black  oil  must  always  be  considered  as  evidence 
of  unnecessary  wear,  except  in  cases  where  the  bearings 
are  new. 


82 


SPINNING, 


PURCHASE  OF  NEW  FRAMES. 

There  are  several  excellent  makes  of  spinning  frame  sold 
in  this  country.  Some  of  the  builders  buy  their  spindles, 
rings,  separators  and  lever  screws  from  us.  Others  supply 
their  own.  Even  those  who  make  their  own  specialties,  will 
usually  furnish  our  parts,  if  the  buyers  insist.  We  know  our 
spindles  are  superior  to  any  manufactured,  because  we  have 
not  only  had  more  experience  than  any  other  builder  in  the 
making  and  testing  of  spindles,  but  we  employ  processes 
which  are  superior,  several  of  which  are  protected  by  patents. 
We  urge  the  choice  of  our  spindles  to  customers,  from  our 
knowledge  of  their  detail  as  well  as  their  design.  We  furnish 
all  the  standard  varieties. 

As  to  rings,  we  are  equally  positive  as  to  recommendation 
of  our  own  product,  and  for  similar  reasons.  We  explain 
more  in  detail  in  another  section  of  this  book. 

Our  Rhoades-Chandler  separators  are  well  known  and 
unequalled  in  efficiency. 

Our  lever  screws  are  copied  since  our  patent  expired,  but 
we  believe  the  product  of  our  shops  is  more  accurately  made 
and  more  carefully  inspected  than  those  made  by  others,  for 
we  have  a  special  department  for  turned  work  of  this  nature, 
in  which  the  entire  equipment  is  of  tools  of  our  own  design 
and  manufacture. 

Referring  to  general  details  of  the  frame,  it  is  growing 
customary  in  foreign  countries  to  use  frames  of  great  length 
with  many  spindles.  We  doubt  the  expediency  of  this 
movement.  There  may  be  a  slight  saving  in  floor  space,  but 
the  additional  power  demands  a  tighter  belt,  there  is  more 
torsion  on  the  rolls  and  cylinder,  and  a  greater  proportion  of 
the  spindles  are  stopped  for  doffing  or  other  purposes.  There 
is  more  difficulty  in  keeping  the  long  frames  properly  leveled. 
Purchasers  of  frames  should  anticipate  the  possible  increase 
in  speed  by  having  extra  weight  and  good  width  of  frame, 
with  large  cylinders.  Nearly  all  frames  are  now  made  with 
outside  bearings. 


SPINDLE  POWER. 

In  a  modern  weaving  mill  producing  cotton  goods,  and  of 
sufficient  size  to  be  operated  to  advantage,  the  power  used  in 
the  spinning  room  is  estimated  by  mill  engineers  to  average 
about  forty-five  per  cent  of  the  total  power  used  in  the  mill. 


SPINNING, 


83 


Given  proper  conditions,  there  is  but  little  difference  in 
power  consumed  between  the  several  standard  types  of  high 
speed  spindles  of  similar  size.  We  have  tried  numerous 
variations  in  size  and  fit  of  the  various  parts,  but  find  that 
if  we  loosen  the  fit  of  the  bearings  to  save  power  under 
certain  conditions,  we  get  more  vibration.  Nothing  yet 
tested  has  equalled  our  present  type,  taking  consumption  of 
power  and  smoothness  of  running  into  consideration. 
Variations  in  power  between  different  types  of  spindles  of 
the  same  general  class  are  slight,  compared  with  the 
variations  produced  by  improper  conditions.  If  the  spindle 
is  crooked  it  will  vibrate  more  and  take  more  power.  Large, 
heavy  spindles  take  more  power  than  lighter  spindles. 

As  to  the  conditions  of  use,  possibly  poor  oil  is  the  most 
common  consumer  of  power.  A  combination  of  low  gravity 
oil  with  the  rust  produced  by  moisture  or  acid  represents 
about  the  maximum  of  evil.  For  years  we  have  recommended 
spindle  users  to  buy  a  good  light  oil.  The  best  is  none  too 
good.  The  difference  in  price  between  a  good  oil  and  a  poor 
oil  is  as  nothing  compared  with  the  real  saving  obtainable. 
We  now  refer  to  our  standard  spindles  with  bearings  enclosed 
in  an  oil  bath.  Sawyer  and  other  double  rail  spindles  require 
heavier  oil  on  the  upper  bearings, 

A  tight  band  pull  adds  to  the  power  consumed,  in  fact  it 
may  run  to  excessive  limits.  Spinners  are  better  trained 
than  formerly  and  a  band  pull  of  from  six  to  ten  pounds  is 
not  of  as  frequent  occurrence  as  years  ago. 

Poor  bobbins  consume  power  by  causing  the  spindles  to 
vibrate,  and  so  do  rings  that  are  out  of  center.  The  other 
elements  of  the  frame,  such  as  the  cylinder  and  rolls,  take 
more  power  if  the  bearings  are  poorly  oiled,  or  if  the  rolls 
are  too  heavily  weighted.  A  tight  driving  belt  on  the  pulley 
will  add  to  the  whole  power  of  the  frame. 

The  work  put  on  the  spindle  by  the  act  of  spinning— that 
is,  carrying  the  thread  and  traveler  around  the  ring,  is  an 
important  element  in  power  consumption,  but  it  is  a  necessary 
element  and  not  easily  modified  except  by  variation  in  the 
weight  of  the  traveler  and  the  size  of  the  ring.  The  pull  on 
the  yarn  varies  in  proportion  to  the  diameter  of  the  bobbin 
compared  with  the  diameter  of  the  ring,  especially  when 
spinning  near  the  bare  bobbin.  The  modern  practice  of 
spinning  with  larger  bobbins  and  larger  ring  diameters  adds  to 
power  used,  unless  the  speed  be  reduced.  The  question  of 
speed  enters  into  the  question  of  power;  that  is,  the  power 
consumed  per  product  is  larger  as  the  speed  increases.  The 
power  consumed  by   a  frame  varies  with  conditions  of 


84 


SPINNING, 


atmosphere  and  temperature.  Excess  of  moisture  in  the  air 
causes  the  bands  to  become  tighter.  When  a  mill  gets  cold 
over  night,  the  oil  congeals  more  or  less,  making  the  frames 
harder  to  start  in  the  morning.  Bands  also  contract  while  at 
rest.  Spindles  consume  less  power  after  running  some  time, 
as  they  smooth  their  bearings  and  cure  any  trouble  in  tight 
or  cramped  bearings. 

PRACTICAL  METHODS  OF  POWER  TESTING. 
If  data  are  needed  to  determine  what  style  or  size  of 
spindle  is  to  be  used,  it  is  advisable  to  consult  the  maker  of 
the  spindles  as  to  the  data  he  himself  has  obtained.  The 
power  tests  of  a  whole  frame  for  this  purpose  are  apt  to  be 
misleading,  for  the  spindles  themselves  consume  but  a 
fraction  of  the  whole  power,  and  there  may  be  serious 
variations  in  other  parts  of  the  frame.  These  variations 
are  certainly  present  where  one  frame  is  tested  against 
another. 

If  the  tests  be  made  to  determine  the  selection  of  an  oil, 
it  is  best  to  make  them  on  the  same  frame  and  the  same 
spindles,  changing  the  oil  in  the  bases  with  thorough  cleansing 
between.  Interesting  tests  may  be  made  to  show  the 
difference  between  a  frame  as  ordinarily  run  and  the  same 
frame  after  being  put  into  proper  condition.  In  order  to  have 
the  test  amount  to  anything  it  should  be  made  by  a  man  who 
takes  pains  to  have  the  conditions  uniform,  or  by  a  man  who 
has  had  sufficient  experience  to  allow  for  variations  in 
conditions  ;  for  instance,  a  frame  tested  Monday  morning 
would  show  worse  results  than  on  Tuesday  morning,  simply 
because  resting  over  Sunday  would  affect  the  bands  and  also 
the  oil,  if  the  mill  were  cool  in  the  interim.  Frames  as  a 
rule  run  lighter  in  the  afternoon  than  in  the  morning,  and 
they  run  lighter  on  a  warm,  sunny  day  than  on  a  cool,  muggy 
day. 

Since  there  are  many  possibilities  for  unexpected 
variations,  it  is  well  not  only  to  make  several  tests,  but 
to  definitely  compare  the  different  elements  of  power 
consumption  which  make  up  the  total.  To  do  this,  it  is 
advisable  to  know  in  each  test  how  much  power  is  consumed 
by  the  rolls,  gearing  and  builder ;  how  much  by  the  drag  of 
the  yarn  ;  and  how  much  by  the  load  on  the  spindle.  We 
advise  the  following  method  of  power  testing  to  meet  these 
conditions. 

Take  records  of  the  power  for  several  minutes  just  before 
doffing  time;  then  take  the  records  for  several  minutes  after 
doffing.    Take  all  readings  when  the  rail  is  at  the  center  of 


SPINNING. 


85 


the  traverse.  By  adding  these  records  and  dividing  by  2,  the 
average  power  of  the  frame  while  spinning  is  approximately 
obtained.  Now,  break  the  ends  down,  and  keep  the  rolls 
running  and  record  the  power.  Next,  throw  the  rolls  and 
builder  out  of  gear  and  run  the  spindles  with  their  bobbins. 
The  difference  between  the  latter  two  records  will  give  the 
power  consumed  by  the  rolls,  gears  and  builder.  Now,  take 
the  empty  bobbins  off  and  replace  them  with  the  full  bobbins, 
running  the  spindles  without  rolls  as  before.  By  adding  this 
record  to  the  record  of  the  empty  bobbins  without  rolls,  and 
dividing  by  2,  we  have  the  power  taken  by  the  average  weight 
of  the  yarn  load  and  bobbins  with  the  spindles.  Now,  take 
the  bobbins  off  and  run  the  spindles  bare.  Subtracting  this 
record  from  the  former  one  will  show  the  power  taken  by  the 
average  yarn  load  and  bobbin.  If  necessary  to  differentiate 
further,  it  is  possible  to  get  the  power  of  the  average  yarn 
load  without  the  bobbin,  by  putting  bare  bobbins  on  the 
spindles  and  finding  the  actual  power  taken  by  the  bobbins 
without  yarn.  If  the  power  taken  by  the  average  yarn  load, 
bobbin  and  spindle,  is  subtracted  from  the  average  of  the 
entire  power  while  spinning,  after  eliminating  the  power  of 
the  rolls,  gears  and  builder,  it  is  possible  to  determine  the 
power  taken  by  the  drag  of  the  traveler  and  the  resistance  of 
the  air  to  the  yarn  while  spinning.  The  power  taken  by  the 
cylinder  can  be  easily  found  by  cutting  off  bands  and  running 
the  cylinder  by  itself. 

If  these  elements  of  power  consumed  are  sub-divided  on 
comparative  tests,  it  is  easy  to  see  whether  the  conditions 
are  uniform,  for  there  should  be  no  perceptible  variation 
between  the  power  taken  by  any  of  these  elements  with  the 
same  spindles. 

Spindles  of  different  construction  show  curious  variations 
in  the  division  of  power  between  these  elements.  It  is  easy 
to  discover  what  type  of  spindle  carries  its  yarn  best  and 
which  one  is  best  adapted  to  meet  the  strain  of  the  pull  of 
the  yarn.  It  must  always  be  borne  in  mind  that  the 
percentage  of  gain  by  one  frame  of  spindles  over  another  by 
no  means  shows  the  true  proportionate  worth  of  the  spindles 
themselves,  for  a  spindle  that  is  materially  better  than 
another  has  its  percentage  reduced  when  several  other 
elements  of  power  consumption  are  added  into  the  total  result. 

In  testing  oils,  it  is  not  necessary  to  spin  if  a  quick  test 
is  wanted,  as  any  real  difference  in  the  quality  of  the  oil  will 
show  with  the  bare  spindles. 

No  comparative  power  tests  are  of  the  slightest  use 
unless  the  band  tension  is  the  same,  or  unless  proper  variation 


86       •  SPINNING. 

of  proportion  is  figured.  A  band  scale  is  indispensable.  In 
preparing  a  frame  for  tests,  it  should  be  accurately  leveled, 
cleaned  and  scoured.  The  spindles,  rings  and  guide  wires 
should  be  set  with  accuracy.  The  spindles  themselves  should 
be  cleaned  by  removing  all  the  oil  and  dirt  with  a  pump  and 
swab,  or  steam  jet.  If  the  spindles  have  been  adjusted 
badly,  the  fit  should  be  made  uniform.  New  bands  should  be 
applied,  running  them  enough  to  take  out  the  first  stretch, 
then  carefully  weighing  and  cutting  off  any  abnormally  tight 
or  loose  bands  till  the  average  is  as  near  the  standard  two 
pounds  as  possible.  The  band  tension  should  be  weighed  at 
least  twice  a  day  while  testing,  and  the  average  pull  made 
uniform  by  new  bands,  as  necessary. 

If  spindles  with  adjustable  bearings  are  tested  against 
spindles  with  straight  bearings,  the  looseness  of  fit  in  the 
adjustable  bearings  should  be  made  as  uniform  as  possible 
with  the  average  fit  in  the  other.  We  mention  this  because 
we  have  seen  spindles  submitted  for  comparative  tests  in 
which  the  fits  were  much  looser  than  in  the  regular  trade 
practice.  A  loose  bearing  will  reduce  power,  unless  the 
looseness  is  carried  to  sufficient  extent  to  seriously  affect  the 
running  of  the  spindle. 

The  size  of  the  band  affects  the  power  problem,  not 
only  because  it  is  tied  tighter,  but  also  because  there  is 
more  air  resistance.  The  weight  of  a  spindle  is  not  as 
important  as  the  size  of  its  bearing.  We  have  seen  spindles 
made  so  small  and  short  at  the  bearing  that  they  consumed 
more  power  than  larger  spindles  because  they  had  to  be 
fitted  tightly  in  their  bearings  to  prevent  vibration.  If  a 
spindle  blade  vibrates  through  the  actual  bending  of  the 
blade  itself,  it  will  consume  much  power.  The  taper  bearing 
blade  is  stronger  than  any  other  in  comparison  with  the 
average  size  of  its  bearing. 

We  have  given  special  attention  to  the  subject  of  power 
ever  since  the  Sawyer  spindle  was  invented.  The  tests 
during  this  period  have  included  comparisons  to  determine 
the  value  of  different  inventions,  many  of  which  have  never 
been  seen  by  our  customers.  There  are  certain  general 
conclusions  reached  by  these  comparisons  which  may  have 
value  as  preventing  the  repetition  of  useless  experiments. 

Ball  bearing  spindles  offer  an  interesting  field  for  power 
tests.  There  is  no  question  that  ball  bearing  spindles  can 
be  made  to  run  with  light  consumption  of  power;  but  they 
are  expensive  in  construction,  and  it  is  difficult  to  make  them 
in  large  lots  so  that  they  will  run  uniformly. 

Oilless  bearing  spindles  have  been  found  to  consume 


SPINNING. 


87 


little  power,  but  their  bands  wear  out  rapidly  and  so  far  as 
our  own  experience  has  determined  there  are  objections  not 
yet  met  satisfactorily. 

Anti-friction  step  bearings  are  common  as  inventions, 
but  the  vertical  friction  of  a  spindle  is  so  little  that  it  is 
hardly  perceptible  in  the  general  showing. 

Spindles  have  been  constructed  with  bearings  and 
fits  so  loose  that  they  could  be  driven  to  speed  by  the 
ordinary  store  twine,  but  they  had  certain  peculiarities  and 
eccentricities  of  motion  so  that  they  would  not  run  constantly 
in  the  center  of  the  ring.  Spindles  can  be  designed  to  run 
well  for  short  periods  that  would  wear  out  rapidly  in  constant 
use.  Others  may  run  well  for  a  few  days,  but  are  so 
designed  that  they  cannot  hold  oil. 

To  anticipate  possible  suggestions,  will  say  that  we  have, 
covering  a  long  period,  tried  spindles  with  loose  bearings  and 
tight  bearings;  long  bearings  and  short  bearings;  bolsters 
with  many  degrees  of  looseness;  bolsters  locked,  unlocked 
and  spring  locked;  spindles  with  pointed  steps  and  flat  steps; 
bolsters  with  different  packings,  no  packings,  and  many 
forms  of  spring  packings;  spindles  with  self -adjustable  fits; 
spindle  blades  with  different  tapers,  different  lengths  and 
different  diameters — in  fact,  almost  every  mechanical 
variation  that  the  ingenuity  of  many  minds  has  been  able  to 
suggest. 

POWER  CONSUMPTION  ANALYZED. 
In  spinning  No.  28  yarn  in  1%  inch  ring  with  a  band 
tension  of  2  lbs.,  the  power  units  are  approximately  as 


follows: 

Power  consumed  by  cylinder,   2.5  per  cent. 

Bands  and  bare  spindles,   50. 

Bare  bobbins,   2.5 

Average  yarn  load,   15. 

Traveler  pull,   22. 

Rolls,  builder  and  gearing,   8. 


100 

The  proportions  will  vary  according  to  the  oil,  the  size  of 
ring,  speed,  etc. 

It  is  difficult  to  advise  just  how  much  power  will  be 
taken  by  any  given  conditions,  because  the  range  of  actual 
experience  in  power  testing  is  too  limited  to  cover  the  many 
possible  combinations.  Neither  is  it  safe  to  figure  out  this 
proportionate  variation  to  allow  for  differences  in  conditions. 


SPINNING. 


For  example,  it  is  proper  to  assume  that  increase  of  speed 
will  increase  the  power  taken  inversely  as  the  square  of  the 
speeds.  In  actual  practise,  the  results  do  not  conform  to 
this  assumption;  not  for  any  fault  in  the  laws  of  science,  but 
because  of  changes  in  conditions  which  may  not  always  be 
taken  into  consideration.  For  instance,  if  we  start  with  a 
certain  band  tension,  at  a  certain  speed,  an  increase  of  speed 
will  lessen  the  band  tension.  An  increase  of  speed  will  also 
raise  the  temperature  of  the  oil.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the 
power  taken  by  any  one  spinning  frame  does  not  increase  in 
the  degree  expected,  but  in  a  less  degree. 


PRODUCTION  TABLES. 

The  details  of  the  figures  given  for  production  and  speeds 
do  not  coincide  with  those  given  by  any  other  authority.  In 
order  to  prepare  them  we  asked  for  information  from  every 
mill  in  this  country  having  frame  spindles,  and  while  a 
statistical  table  must  necessarily  conform  to  some  rule  of 
progression,  the  results  indicated  can  be  paralleled  by  actual 
facts. 

These  tables  are  not  made  up  from  average  results,  but 
rather  represent  a  high  average,  though  not  a  maximum. 
Most  tables  figure  out  revolutions  of  the  front  rolls  in 
decimals,  from  an  assumed  spindle  speed.  Our  tables  give 
roll  speed,  spindle  speed  and  hank  production  in  even  figures 
for  greater  convenience  of  application.  The  warp  twist  is 
figured  from  the  ordinary  warp  twist  table  up  to  and 
including  No.  35.  This  standing  is  made  by  multiplying  the 
square  root  of  the  number  of  the  yarn  by  4.75.  The  use  of 
longer  stapled  cotton  for  numbers  above  35  has  led  to  a 
reduction  in  twist  for  finer  yarns.  In  our  tables  we  use  a 
twist  from  Nos.  40  to  80,  figured  by  multiplying  the  square 
root  of  the  number  of  the  yarn  by  4.50.  From  36s  to  39s, 
inclusive,  the  twist  is  graduated  between  the  two  standards. 
From  80  to  110  the  twist  is  figured  by  multiplying  the  square 
root  of  the  number  of  the  yarn  by  4.25. 

It  is  impossible  to  meet  all  the  conditions  of  twist  in  a 


SPINNING. 


89 


table  of  this  nature,  as  yarn  is  used  for  so  many  purposes. 
We  have  tried  to  make  it  conform  to  the  practice  of  the 
majority  of  mills. 

The  production  in  hanks  is  necessarily  figured  from  the 
delivery  of  the  front  roll,  making  proper  allowance  for 
doffing,  and  the  contraction  of  the  yarn  due  to  the  twist. 
Of  course  more  time  must  be  allowed  for  doffing  with  coarse 
yarn.  The  revolutions  of  the  spindle  must  be  sufficient  to 
not  only  put  in  the  necessary  twist  per  inch,  but  also  to  wind 
the  yarn  on  the  bobbin. 

In  our  table  of  filling  yarn  the  twist  is  computed  from  a 
varying  standard  as  follows: 

Up  to  and  including  No.  25,  the  mule  filling  twist  of  3.25 
times  the  square  root  is  used,  as  returns  from  the  mills  seem 
to  show  that  the  coarser  numbers  can  be  spun  with  this 
amount  of  slackness,  to  advantage.  From  No.  25  to  No.  30, 
inclusive,  the  twist  is  figured  at  3.50  times  the  square  root, 
and  above  No.  30  at  3.75,  which  is  the  mule  warp  twist. 

It  has  been  thought  useless  to  give  theoretical  spindle 
speeds,  as  the  usual  facilities  for  counting  speed  are  not 
adapted  to  fine  results.  No  variation  is  figured  at  less  than 
one  hundred  turns  per  minute.  This  seems  near  enough,  as 
the  speed  varies,  more  or  less,  from  frame  to  frame  and  from. 
hour  to  hour. 

The  comparative  tables  show  actual  figures  from  mills  as 
compared  with  the  computation  of  estimated  progression. 
Figures  from  the  standard  table  are  first  placed  opposite  the 
number  of  yarn  and  figures  then  follow,  giving  actual  results 
on  the  same  yarn.  We  show  one  or  two  instances  where  the 
mill  results  are  greatly  in  excess  of  our  own  table.  We  could 
have  given  many  more,  if  necessary,  to  prove  our  own 
recommendations  moderate.  It  is  not  safe  to  rely  absolutely 
on  the  spindle  speeds  that  are  quoted  from  the  mills,  as  they 
are  often  estimated,  or  figured  without  allowing  for  slip  of 
bands. 

CONSTANTS. 
While  certain  twist  constants  are  universally  used  in 
figuring  textile  operations,  the  application  of  this  principle, 
is  not,  so  far  as  we  know,  carried  out  for  convenience  in 
other  relations.  Mr.  George  A.  Vaughan,  superintendent  of 
the  Putnam  Mfg.  Co.,  has  sent  us  the  following  data,  which 
he  uses  in  his  own  mill.  By  following  the  same  principle, 
one  could  work  out  other  constants  for  application  in  other 
mills  where  the  conditions  are  different. 


90 


SPINNING, 


PRODUCTION  CONSTANTS. 

CONSTANTS.  SPEEDERS. 

.467  for      "  roll.  Rule— Divide    .467    (slubbers  and 

.421  for  13^  "  roll.  intermediate),  or  .421  (fine  speeders 
and  jacks),  by  the  hank  number  and 
multiply  the  quotient  by  the 
revolutions  per  minute  of  the  front 
roll.  The  result  is  the  production  at 
100  per  cent,  in  lbs.  per  spindle  per 
week  of  60  hours. 

SPINNING  FRAMES. 

.374  fori"  roll.  Rule— Divide   .374   by  number  of 

yarn  and  multiply  the  quotient  by  R. 
P.  M.  of  the  front  roll.  The  result  is 
the  production  at  100  per  cent,  in  lbs. 
per  spindle  per  week  of  60  hours.  For 
week  of  58  hours  the  constant  would 
be  .362  and  for  66  hours,  .411. 

MULES. 

7.143  for  60^' stretch.       Rule— Divide  the  constant  by  the 
7.619  for  64'^  stretch,     number  of  yarn,  and  multiply  the 
7.976  for  67^'  stretch,     quotient  by  the  number  of  stretches 
per   minute.      The   result   is  the 
production  at  100  per  cent,  in  lbs. 
per  spindle  per  week  of  60  hours. 

LOOMS. 

.100  Multiply  100   by  the  number  of 

picks  per  minute  and  divide  by  the 
picks  per  inch.  Result  is  the 
production  at  100  per  cent,  in  yards 
per  week  of  60  hours. 


The  spinning  constants  given  above  allow  no  time  for 
doffing,  etc.  The  table  on  page  96  gives  a  system  of 
progressional  constants  in  which  allowance  for  loss  of  time 
has  been  made  in  conformity  with  the  results  as  shown  in  our 
production  table.  It  will  be  found  useful  for  conditions 
where  it  is  desirable  to  know  what  production  should  be 
obtained  from  frames  having  roll  speeds  which  differ  from 
those  we  have  assumed. 

For  instance,  taking  the  constant  .328  for  No.  28  warp 
yarn  on  58  hours  run  we  find  production  at  the  roll  speed 
given  of  124  turns  as  follows : 


SPINNING.  91 

28)  .328    I  .0117 
28  124 


48  468 
28  234 
  117 


200 


196     1.4508  Ansim\ 

Our  warp  production  table  gives  1.45  or  the  same 
result.  Now  to  find  the  comparative  production  on  No.  28 
warp  yarn  at  120  revolutions  of  the  front  roll,  multiply  .0117 
by  120=1.40. 

For  No.  29  to  No.  34  yarn  the  same  constant  would  be 
used;  that  is  wherever  there  is  a  blank,  use  the  constant 
given  above  it. 


The  figures  of  the  five  following  tables  are  all  made  up 
with  allowances  for  loss  in  doffing  and  for  the  contraction 
of  the  yarn  due  to  the  twist. 

These  tables  are  based  upon  58,  60  and  66  hours  per 
week.  Other  standards  may  readily  be  figured  from  the  60 
hour  column.  For  instance,  54  hours  will  be  one-tenth  less 
than  60 ;  55  hours  one-twelfth  less,  etc. 


92 


SPINNING, 


Production  Table  of  Ring  Warp  Yarn. 


Front  Roll  1  Inch  in  Diameter. 


No.  of  Yarn.  1 

Size  of  Spindle.  1 

Gauge  of  frame.  1 

Diameter  of  1 
ring.  1 

Length  of  1 
traverse.  1 

Twist  per  inch. 

Revolutions  of 
front  roll  per 
minute. 

Revolutions  of 
spindle  per 
minute. 

Hanks  per 
spindle  per 
day  of  10  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin- 
dle per  week 
of  58  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin- 
dle per  week  of 
60  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin- 
dle per  week  of 
66  hours. 

4 

9.50 

204 

6200 

10.50 

15.22 

15.75 

17.32 

10.62 

200 

6800 

10.40 

12.06 

12.48 

13.72 

11^64 

196 

7300 

10^30 

9^95 

10.30 

11.33 

7 

12.57 

192 

7700 

10.20 

8.45 

7i 

9.61 

8 

13!44 

188 

8100 

io!io 

7!32 

7.57 

8.'33 

9 

-g 

14.25 

18* 

8400 

10.00 

6.44 

6.66 

7.33 

10 

d 

.2 

15.02 

180 

8600 

9.80 

5.68 

5.88 

6.46 

11 

CO 

176 

8800 

9^60 

5.06 

523 

5.76 

12 

u 

V 

o 
^1 

16.45 

172 

9000 

9.40 

4.54 

4.70 

5.17 

13 

A 

(N 

o 

17.13 

168 

9000 

9.20 

4.10 

4.24 

4.67 

14 

g 

£ 

17^77 

164 

9000 

9.00 

3.72 

3.85 

4*24 

15 

P 

o 

18^40 

160 

9300 

8!80 

3.40 

3^52 

3^86 

16 

19  [ 

156 

9400 

8^60 

3*11 

3*22 

3.54 

17 

19*58 

152 

9400 

8^40 

2  86 

2  96 

3  26 

18 

20;i5 

148 

9400 

8!20 

2!64 

2!73 

3*.00 

19 

20.71 

144 

9400 

8.00 

2.44 

2.52 

2.77 

20 

21.24 

140 

9400 

7.80 

2.26 

2.34 

2.57 

21 

21.77 

138 

9400 

7.70 

2.12 

2*20 

2.42 

22 

22.28 

136 

9500 

7.60 

2.00 

2.07 

2^28 

23 

22.78 

134 

9500 

7.50 

1^89 

1.95 

2*15 

24 

23.27 

132 

9600 

7.40 

1.78 

1.'85 

2.03 

25 



23.75 

130 

9600 

7^30 

1.69 

1.75 

1.92 

26 

24.22 

128 

9700 

7.20 

1*60 

1^66 

1.82 

27 

24  68 

126 

9700 

7.10 

1.52 

1.57 

1^73 

28 

25^13 

124 

9700 

7!oo 

1.'45 

1*.50 

1^65 

29 

25.58 

122 

9800 

6.90 

1.38 

1.42 

1.57 

30 

26.02 

120 

9800 

6.80 

1.31 

1.36 

1.49 

31 

26.45 

120 

9900 

6.80 

1*27 

1^31 

1^44 

32 

(CD.o< 

118 

10000 

6.70 

1.21 

1.25 

1.38 

33 

CD 

97  9Q 

118 

10100 

6.70 

1.17 

1.21 

1*34 

34 

97  70 

116 

10200 

6.60 

1.12 

l!l6 

1^28 

oO 

m 

V 

9Q  in 

lift 

ilD 

10300 

6.60 

i!o9 

1.  iO 

1*24 

36 

(-1 

\» 
w\ 

9fi  17 

114 

10200 

6.50 

1*04 

1.08 

1*19 

37 

CO* 

tH 

9Q  91 

114 

10100 

6^50 

1.01 

1.05 

l]l5 

oo 

9Q  Q1 

112 

10000 

6  40 

^97 

1  01 

l!ll 

39 

d 

:zi 

CO 

28.38 

112 

10000 

6^40 

!95 

.98 

l'.08 

40 

^1 

28.46 

110 

10000 

6.30 

.91 

.94 

1.03 

41 

28.81 

110 

10000 

6.30 

.89 

.92 

1.01 

42 

29.16 

108 

10000 

6.20 

.85 

.88 

.97 

43 

29.50 

108 

10000 

6.20 

.83 

.86 

.95 

44 

29.65 

106 

10000 

6.10 

.80 

.83 

.91 

45 

30.19 

106 

10000 

6.10 

.78 

.81 

.89 

46 

30.51 

104 

10000 

6. 

.75 

.78 

.86 

47 

30.85 

104 

10000 

6. 

.74 

.76 

.84 

48 

31.18 

102 

10000 

5.90 

.71 

.73 

.81 

49 

31.50 

102 

10000 

5.90 

.69 

.72 

.79 

50 

31.81 

100 

10000 

5.80 

.67 

.69 

.76 

55 

33.37 

96 

10000 

5.60 

.59 

.61 

.67 

60 

34.86 

92 

10000 

5.40 

.52 

.54 

.59 

65 

36.28 

88 

10000 

5.20 

.46 

.48 

.52 

70 

37.65 

84 

10000 

5. 

.41 

.42 

.47 

75 

\e* 

38.97 

80 

9800 

4.80 

.37 

.38 

.42 

80 

»0 

39.08 

78 

9600 

4.70 

.34 

.35 

.38 

85 

rH 

O 
■*J 

39.18 

76 

9400 

4.60 

.31 

.32 

.35 

90 

\a 

40.32 

74 

9400 

4.50 

.29 

.30 

.33 

95 

41.22 

72 

9400 

4.35 

.26 

.27 

.30 

100 

42.50 

70 

9400 

4.20 

.24 

.25 

.27 

SPINNING. 


93 


Comparative  Production  Table  of  Ring  Warp  Yarn. 


No.  of  Yarn.  1 

Size  of  spindle.  1 

Gauge  of  frame.  1 

Diameter  of  1 
ring.  1 

Length  of  1 
traverse.  1 

Twist  per  inch. 

Revolutions  of 
front  roll  per 
minute. 

Revolutions  of 
spindle  per 
minute. 

Hanks  per  spin- 
dle per  day  of 
10  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin- 
dle per  week 
of  58  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin- 
dle per  week 
of  60  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin- 
dle per  week 
of  66  hours. 

6 

3 

1% 

7 
7 

11.64 

196 
180 

7300 
6800 

10.30 

9.95 

10.30 

11.33 
10.10 

10 

3 

2>^ 
1^ 

7 
7 

15.02 

180 
178 

8600 
8500 

9.80 

5.68 

5.88 

6.46 
6.68 

12 

6 

3 

2>^ 
1^ 

7 
6 

16.45 

172 
185 

9000 
8700 

9.40 

4.54 

4.70 

5.17 
5.40 

13 

u 

3 

2% 
2 

7 
7 

17.13 

168 
160 

9000 
8500 

9.20 

4.10 

4.24 

4.67 
4.48 

14 

<D 
O. 

CJ 

u 

3 

2X 

7 

6X 

17.77 

164 
169 

9000 
8100 

9.00 

3.72 

3.85 

4.24 
4.66 

18 

2X 

1^ 

7 
6 

20.15 

148 

150 

9400 
8800 

8.20 

2.64 

2.73 

3.00 
3.37 

30 

2X 

IX 

7 
7 

21.24 

140 
]40 

9400 
9400 

7.80 

2.26 

2.34 

2.57 
2.49 

22 

2X 

IX 

7 
6 

22.28 

136 
136 

9500 
9500 

7.60 

2.00 

2.07 
2.10 

2.28 

25 

2K 

IX 
1^ 

7 

23.75 

130 
130 

9600 
9500 

7.30 

1.69 
1.69 

1.75 

1.92 

26 

2% 

IX 
1^ 

6X 
6 

24.22 

128 
136 

9700 
10000 

7.20 

1.60 

1.66 

L82 
1.80 

28 

2X 

IX 

6X 
5X 

25.13 

124 
122 

9700 
9750 

7.00 

1.45 
1.47 

1.50 

1.65 

30 

2X 

IX 
IX 

6X 
5X 

26.02 

120 
120 
122 

9800 
9750 
10000 

6.80 

1.31 
1.34 

1.36 

1.49 
1.48 

32 

1^ 

IX 

6X 
6 

6X 

26.87 

118 
115 
118 

10000 
9500 
9600 

6.70 

1.21 

1.25 
1.30 

1.38 
1.35 

34 

2X 

1% 

6X 
6X 

27.70 

116 
120 

10200 

9500 

6.60 

1.12 

1.16 
1.20 

1.28 

38 

d 

2% 

6X 
6X 

28.31 

112 
112 

10000 
9700 

6.40 

.97 

1.01 
1.00 

1.11 

40 

u 

2X 

6X 

6X 

28.46 

110 
115 

10000 
10000 

6.30 

.91 
.95 

.94 

1.03 

42 

§■ 

u 

Q 

2K 

iy2 

6 
6 

29.16 

108 
100 

10000 
9200 

6.20 

.85 
.81 

.88 

.97 

60 

2X 

I'A 

6 

6 

31.81 

100 
100 

10000 
10000 

5.80 

.67 
.67 

.69 

.76 

60 

2X 

IK 

6 
6 

34.86 

92 
92 

10000 
10000 

5.40 

.52 
.57 

.54 

.59 

70 

2X 

IX 
1% 

6 

37.65 

84 

83 

10000 
9700 

5. 

.41 

.42 
.46 

.47 

80 

2^ 

IX 
IX 

5K 

39.08 

78 
78 

9600 
9700 

4.70 

.34 

.35 
.36 

.38 

90 

2^ 

IX 
IX 

5>^ 

40.32 

74 

68 

9400 
9400 

4.50 

.29 
.27 

.30 

.33 

100 

2^ 

IX 
IX 

5 

5X 

42.50 

70 
68 

9400 
9400 

4.20 

.24 
.24 

.25 

.27 

94 


SPINNING, 


Production  Table  of  Ring  Filling  Yarn. 


Front  Roll  1  Inch  in  Diameter. 


No.  of  Yarn.  1 

Size  of  Spindle.  | 

Gauge  of  frame.  | 

1    Diameter  of  1 
1          ring.  1 

Length  of  1 
Traverse.  | 

Twist  per  inch. 

Revolutions  of 
front  roll  per 
minute. 

Revolutions  of 
spindle  per 
minute. 

Hanks  per 
spindle  per 
day  of  10  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin- 
dle per  week  of 
58  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin-l 
die  per  week  of  1 
60  hours.  1 

Pounds  per  spin-l 
die  per  week  of  1 
66  hours.  | 

4 

6.50 

240 

5000 

10.00 

14.40 

14.88 

16.37 

5 

7.27 

280 

5400 

10.00 

11.50 

11.95 

13.15 

6 

00 

7.96 

220 

5600 

9.85 

9.58 

9.86 

10.84 

7 

9 

8.60 

214 

5800 

9.86 

8.13 

8.40 

9.24 

8 

9.19 

208 

6000 

9.75 

7.07 

7.31 

8.04 

9 

C 

9.75 

202 

6200 

9.65 

6.24 

6.46 

7.10 

10 

10.28 

196 

6400 

9.60 

5.56 

5.76 

6.33 

11 

. 

10.78 

190 

6500 

*9.50 

5.00 

5.18 

5.70 

12 

11.26 

184 

6600 

9.40 

4.54 

4.70 

5.17 

13 

11.72 

180 

6700 

9.35 

4.15 

4.29 

4.72 

14 

3 

12.16 

176 

6800 

9.25 

3.82 

3.95 

4.35 

15 

12.59 

172 

6900 

9.15 

3.53 

3.65 

4.02 

16 

13. 

168 

7000 

9.05 

3.28 

3.39 

3.73 

17 

13.40 

166 

7100 

9.00 

3.07 

3.17 

3.48 

18 

13.79 

162 

7200 

8.80 

2.84 

2.93 

3.22 

19 

14.17 

158 

7200 

8.70 

2.64 

2.74 

3.02 

20 

14.53 

156 

7300 

8.60 

2.49 

2.58 

2.83 

21 

14.89 

154 

7300 

8.50 

2.84 

2.42 

2.67 

22 

15.24 

152 

7400 

8.40 

2.21 

2.29 

2.52 

23 

15.59 

150 

7400 

8.80 

2.09 

2.16 

2.38 

24 

15.92 

148 

7600 

8.20 

1.98 

2.05 

2.26 

26 

s 

— 

16.25 

146 

7600 

8.10 

1.87 

1.94 

2.13 

26 

% 
a 

17.84 

144 

8000 

7.95 

1.77 

1.83 

2.01 

27 

18.19 

142 

8200 

7.85 

1.68 

1.74 

1.91 

28 

3 

00 

18.52 

140 

8200 

7.75 

1.60 

1.66 

1.83 

oo 

15 

« 

CD 

1Q  ftA 

loo 

OOw 

1  K9 
1.04 

1  K7 

l.Ol 

1  7^1 
l./O 

30 

g 

19.17 

136 

8300 

7.55 

1.45 

1.51 

1.66 

31 

u 

o 

20.88 

134 

8800 

7.45 

1.39 

1.44 

1.58 

32 

«H 

21.21 

132 

8800 

7.85 

1.33 

1.38 

1.52 

33 

ee 

21.54 

130 

8900 

7.25 

1.27 

1.31 

1.44 

34 

21.87 

128 

8900 

7.20 

1.22 

1.27 

1.39 

35 

«H 

22.19 

126 

8900 

7.10 

1.17 

1.21 

1.33 

36 

;^ 

22.50 

124 

8900 

7.00 

1.12 

1.16 

1.28 

37 

22.81 

122 

8800 

6.90 

1.08 

1.11 

1.23 

38 

23.12 

120 

8800 

6.80 

1.03 

1.07 

1.18 

39 

u 
Q 

23.42 

118 

8800 

6.70 

.99 

1.03 

1.13 

40 

23.72 

116 

8800 

6.65 

.96 

J.UU 

1.10 

41 

24.01 

114 

8700 

6.55 

.92 

.96 

1.06 

42 

:^ 

24.30 

112 

8700 

6.40 

.88 

.91 

1.00 

43 

24.59 

110 

8600 

6.30 

.84 

.87 

.96 

44 

24.87 

108 

8600 

6.20 

.81 

.84 

.93 

45 

25.16 

106 

8500 

6.10 

.78 

.81 

.89 

46 

25.43 

104 

8500 

6. 

.75 

.78 

.86 

47 

25.71 

104 

8500 

6. 

.74 

.76 

.84 

48 

25.98 

102 

8400 

5.90 

.71 

.73 

.81 

49 

26.25 

102 

8300 

5.90 

.69 

.72 

.79 

60 

26.52 

100 

8200 

5.80 

.67 

.69 

.76 

55 

27.00 

96 

8200 

5.50 

.58 

.60 

.66 

60 

27.00 

92 

8000 

5.30 

.51 

.53 

.58 

65 

27.00 

88 

7700 

5.10 

.45 

.47 

.52 

70 

27.19 

84 

7400 

4.90 

.40 

.42 

.47 

75 

28.15 

82 

7400 

4.80 

.37 

.38 

.42 

80 

29.07 

80 

7400 

4.60 

.33 

.34 

.37 

86 

29.96 

78 

7400 

4.60 

.31 

.32 

.35 

90 

31.00 

76 

7400 

4.40 

.28 

.29 

.32 

95 

31.68 

74 

7400 

4.40 

.26 

.27 

.30 

100 

32.50 

72 

7400 

4.30 

.24 

.25 

.28 

SPINNING,  95 


Comparative  Production  Table  of  Ring  Filling  Yarn. 


No.  of  Yarn.  1 

Size  of  spindle.  | 

Gauge  of  frame.  1 

Diameter  of  1 
ring.  1 

Length  of  1 
traverse.  1 

Twist  per  inch. 

Revolutions  ot 
front  roll  per 
minute. 

Revolutions  of 
spindle  per 
minute. 

Hanks  per  spin- 
dle per  day  of 
10  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin- 
die  per  week  of 
58  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin- 
dle per  week  of 
60  hours. 

Pounds  per  spin- 
dle per  week  of 
66  hours. 

g 

1  5/ 

I'A 

1 

7.96 

220 
240 

5600 
5600 

9.85 

9.53 
lo!20 

9.86 

10.84 

g 

1  ^ 

1^ 

9.19 

208 
204 

6000 
5600 

9.75 

7.07 

7.31 

7^30 

8.04 

10 

1  5/ 

7 

10.28 

196 
190 

6400 
6250 

9.60 

5  56 
5*. 

5.76 

6.33 

12 

2^ 

IK 

7 
7 

7 

11.26 

184 
185 

6600 
6650 
6800 

9.40 

4.54 
4.60 

4.70 

5.17 
4.75 

14 

2K 

1^ 

A  72 
1  7 

•»-T5 

7 

6 

12.16 

176 
160 
170 

6800 
6400 

9.25 

3.82 
3.75 

3.95 

4.35 
4.07 

16 

A  72 

"/a 

6>^ 

.13 

1 AQ 

166 

7000 
6700 

9.05 

3.28 

3.39 

3.73 
4*.08 

18 

2K 

*78 

6K 

13.79 

162 

7200 
7600 

8.80 

2.84 

2.93 
2.90 

3.22 

20 

2K 

1  7 

*r5 

g 

14.53 

156 
154 

7300 
7200 

8.60 

2.49 

2.58 

2.83 
3.10 

22 

2^ 

1  6 

■••IS 

5>^ 

15.24 

1.52 
172 

7400 
8330 

8.40 

2.21 
2.90 

2.29 

2.52 

24 

2X 

IK 

7 

15.92 

148 

156 

7600 
7800 

8.20 

1.98 

2.05 

2.25 
2.48 

25 

c4 
6 

2X 

I'A 

1  7 

6 
6 

16.25 

146 
148 
156 

7600 
7650 

8.10 

1.87 
1.91 

1.94 
2.10 

2.13 

26 

2^ 

■I  78 

6 
6 

^4 

17.84 

144 
140 

1  d.9 

8000 
7600 
9100 

7.95 

1.77 

1.83 
1.80 

2.01 
2.00 

34 

2X 

6 

21.87 

128 
128 

8900 
9000 

7.20 

1.22 

1.27 
1.28 

1.39 

36 

2^ 

1^ 

1  ?^ 

IH 

\J72, 

64 

22.50 

124 
132 

8900 
8800 
9500 

7.00 

1.12 
1.12 

1.16 
1.23 

1.28 

38 

2X 

IX 
1% 

5A 
6 

23.12 

120 
122 

8800 
8800 

6.80 

1.03 

1.07 

1.18 
1.35 

40 

2X 

1^ 
1% 
IX 

54 
6 

5>^ 

23.72 

116 
110 
118 

8800 
8700 
9500 

6.65 

.96 
.94 

1.00 

1.10 
1.10 

42 

2X 

IH 
V4 
V4 

5>^ 
6 

24.30 

112 
114 
129 

8700 
9000 
9000 

6.40 

.88 
.80 
1.07 

.91 

1.00 

44 

2X 

IK 
V4 

24.87 

108 
103 

8600 
8200 

6.20 

.81 
.81 

.84 

.93 

48 

2% 

V4 
14 

5>^ 

25.98 

102 
103 

8400 
8200 

5.90 

.71 
.74 

.73 

.81 

50 

2X 

14 
IX 

5K 
5A 

26.52 

100 

8200 
8400 

5.80 

.67 
.74 

.69 

.76 

60 

2X 

14 
IX 

5 

27. 

92 
88 

8000 
7300 

5.30 

.61 

.53 

.58 

70 

2% 

14 

5 

27.19 

84 

7400 
7200 
8000 

4.90 

.40 
.34 
.49 

.42 

.47 

IX 

5X 

72 
98 

96  SPINNING, 


Table  of  Constants. 


Number  of  yarn. 

Revolutions  of 
front  roll  recom- 
mended by  our 
warp  table. 

Constant  for  warp 
for  58  hours  pro- 
duction in  pounds. 

Constant  for  warp 
for  60  hours  pro- 
duction in  pounds. 

Constant  for  warp 
for  66  hours  pro- 
duction in  pounds. 

Revolutions  of 
front  roll  recom- 
mended by  our 

filling  table. 

Constant  for  filling 
for  58  hours  pro- 
duction in  pounds. 

Constant  for  filling  1 
for  60  hours  pro-  1 
duction  in  pounds.  | 

Constant  for  filling  1 
for  66  hours  pro-  1 
duction  in  pounds.  | 

204 

OQQ 

.308 

.ooo 

9/1 Q 

.273 

200 

.0\j£i 

.312 

236 

0K(\ 
.ZOU 

.284 

D 

1  OA 

.305 

.315 

.316 

220 

.260 

.268 

.295 

192 

•  OUo 

.318 

.OOvJ 

Ol  A 

266 

97F> 

.302 

g 

188 

.Ol  1 

.321 

.OOO 

OAQ 
ZOo 

272 

OS1 
.ZoL 

.309 

9 

184 

.315 

!326 

.357 

202 

!278 

.287 

.316 

10 

180 

1  QR 

284 

.293 

Q9Q 

w 

176 

.oio 

.326 

IQH 

lyu 

.290 

.300 

<?Qft 

.oou 

12 

172 

1  ftd 
lot 

.296 

.306 

QQ7 
.OO  I 

13 

168 

.328 

360 

1  ftn 

300 

310 

.011 

14 

164 

ft 

.328 

.OOl 

304 

•Oit 

<?/lft 

15 

160 

1  79 
1  iZ 

308 

.318 

.OOU 

16 

156 

.329 

362 

IAS 

312 

.322 

.000 

17 

152 

.330 

.oDO 

1 

.324 

.00  ( 

18 

148 

.331 

364 

162 

316 

326 

.ooy 

19 

144 

.322 

!333 

!365 

158 

!318 

.328 

.361 

20 

140 

156 

.320 

.330 

.363 

21 

138 

.334 

.00/ 

154 

22 

136 

.324 

.335 

.ODO 

152 

23 

134 

150 

24 

132 

148 

25 

130 

.325 

.336 

369 

146 

26 

128 

144 

27 

126 

142 

28 

124 

328 

339 

.373 

140 

29 

122 

138 

30 

120 

136 

31 

120 

134 

.321 

.331 

.364 

32 

118 

132 

.322 

.333 

.365 

33 

118 

130 

.323 

.334 

.367 

34 

116 

128 

.324 

.335 

.000 

35 

116 

340 

•Ol'x 

126 

325 

.336 

.ODa 

36 

114 

124 

.326 

.337 

Q7A 
.O  4U 

37 

114 

122 

327 

.338 

Q71 
.0(1 

38 

112 

19ft 

.328 

339 

.0  iO 

39 

112 

118 

!329 

!340 

.374 

40 

110 

.330 

.341 

.375 

116 

.330 

.341 

.375 

41 

110 

114 

42 

108 

.331 

.342 

.376 

112 

.331 

.342 

.376 

43 

108 

110 

44 

106 

.332 

.343 

.377 

108 

.332 

.343 

.377 

45 

106 

106. 

46 

104 

.333 

.334 

.378 

104 

.333 

.344 

.378 

47 

104 

104 

48 

102 

.334 

.345 

.379 

102 

.334 

.345 

.379 

49 

102 

102 

50 

100 

.335 

.346 

.380 

100 

.335 

.346 

.380 

55 

96 

.337 

.349 

.383 

96 

60 

92 

.339 

.350 

.385 

92 

65 

88 

.341 

.352 

.387 

88 

70 

84 

.343 

.354 

.390 

84 

75 

80 

82 

80 

78 

80 

85 

76 

78 

90 

74 

76 

96 

72 

74 

100 

70 

72 

SPINNING. 


97 


SPINNING  FRAME  DIMENSIONS. 

American  frames  are  built  in  widths  of  36  and  39  inches. 
The  length  varies  slightly  between  different  makes  of  frame, 
so  that  these  figures  must  not  be  relied  upon  as  exact.  They 
are  merely  intended  to  give  a  fair  idea  for  approximate 
figuring. 


NTTMRF.R  OP 

1>  \J  iTA  JJ  Hi  XV       \J  r 

IN. 

GAUGE. 

2%  IN 

GAUGE. 

23/  IN 

GAUGE. 

SPINDLES. 

FT. 

IN. 

FT. 

IN. 

FT. 

IN. 

112 

13 

7 

14 

2 

15 

128 

15 

3 

i  15 

11 

16 

7 

1  AA 
144 

16 

11 

!  17 

8 

1  Q 

0 

160 

18 

7 

19 

5 

20 

3 

20 

3 

21 

2 

99 

1 
1 

192 

21 

11 

22 

11 

23 

11 

208 

i  23 

7 

24 

8 

25 

9 

224 

!  25 

3 

26 

5 

27 

7 

240 

1  26 

11 

28 

2 

29 

5 

256  ' 

28 

7 

29 

11 

31 

3 

272 

,  30 

3 

31 

8 

33 

'1 

288 

!  31 

11 

33 

5 

34 

11 

304  i 

33 

7 

35 

2 

36 

9 

320 

35 

3 

36 

11 

38 

7 

336 

36 

11 

38 

8 

40 

5 

NUMBER  OF 

3  IN.  GAUGE. 

33^  IN.  GAUGE. 

6Y1  IN. 

GAUGE. 

SPINDLES. 

FT. 

IN. 

FT. 

IN. 

FT, 

IN. 

120 

16 

11 

18 

2 

19 

5 

132 

18 

5 

19 

9 

21 

2 

144  i 

19 

11 

21 

5 

22 

11 

156  1 

21 

5 

23 

M 

24 

8 

168 

22 

11 

24 

8 

26 

5 

180 

24 

5 

26 

28 

2 

192 

25 

11 

27 

11 

29 

11 

204 

27 

5 

29 

6M 

31 

8 

216 

28 

11 

31 

2 

33 

5 

228 

30 

5 

32 

35 

2 

240 

31 

11 

34 

5 

36 

11 

252 

33 

5 

36 

38 

8 

264 

34 

11 

37 

8 

40 

5 

276 

36 

5 

39 

42 

2 

The  above  lengths  of  frames  over  all  are  figured  with 
tight  and  loose  pulleys  of  V/2  inch  face.  If  3  inch  face 
pulleys  are  figured,  add  1  inch  to  the  above  lengths. 


98  SPINNING. 


TABLE  OF  NUMBERS  AND  WEIGHTS  OF  SPINNING 
TRAVELERS. 
Weight  of  ten  Travelers,  in  Grains. 


Number. 

Weight 
Grains. 

Number. 

Weight 
Grains,  I 

Number. 

Weight 
Grains. 

Number. 

Weight 
Grains. 

25-0 

1 

iK-0 

8M 

24 

60 

49 

110 

24-0 

1-0 

9 

25 

62 

50 

112 

23-0 

IM 

1 

10 

26 

64 

51 

114 

22-0 

IM 

2 

11 

27 

66 

52 

116 

21-0 

2 

3 

12 

28 

68 

53 

118 

20-0 

4 

13 

29 

70 

54 

120 

19-P 

5 

14 

30 

72 

55 

122 

18-0 

^% 

6 

16 

31 

74 

56 

124 

17-0 

3 

7 

18 

32 

76 

57 

126 

X\J~\J 

g 

20 

1  o 

Oo 

128 

15-0 

9 

23 

34 

80 

59 

130 

14-0 

3M 

10 

26 

35 

82 

60 

132 

13-0 

4 

11 

30 

36 

84 

61 

134 

12-0 

4M 

12 

33 

37 

86 

62 

136 

11-0 

4M 

13 

36 

38 

88 

63 

138 

10-0 

4% 

14 

39 

39 

90 

64 

140 

9-0 

5 

15 

42 

40 

92 

65 

142 

8-0 

16 

44 

41 

94 

66 

144 

7-0 

17 

46 

42 

96 

67 

146 

5% 

18 

48 

43 

98 

68 

148 

6-0 

6 

19 

50 

44 

100 

69 

150 

5-0 

6M 

20 

52 

45 

102 

70 

152 

4-0 

7 

21 

54 

46 

104 

71 

154 

3-0 

7M 

22 

56 

47 

106 

72 

156 

2-0 

8 

23 

58 

48 

108 

i  ^73 

158 

HUMIDITY. 


99 


ARTIFICIAL  HUMIDIFICATION. 

The  humidification  of  a  cotton  mill  is  mainly  artificial  in 
character,  and  is  closely  associated  with  other  conditions  of 
the  atmosphere  which  should  be  considered  with  relation  to 
it.  Artificial  humidification  is  needed  for  several  reasons. 
First,  because  of  loss  of  weight  in  the  cotton  or  cloth  if  the 
air  is  too  dry  and  the  natural  amount  of  moisture  not  present. 
Second,  because  of  trouble  in  the  card  room  from  electricity 
unless  there  is  a  suitable  amount  of  moisture  in  the  air. 
Third,  because  the  moisture  favorably  affects  the  grip  of  the 
cotton  fibers  on  each  other,  making  less  breakage  of  ends  in 
the  spinning  and  weaving  rooms,  and  less  loss  of  fiber  in  the 
form  of  invisible  waste.  Fourth,  because  of  the  freshening 
and  cooling  effect  making  the  air  more  agreeable  to  the 
operatives. 

Considering  the  matter  first  from  the  standpoint  of 
cheap  product,  it  is  possible  that  the  principal  advantage  in 
artificial  humidification  is  in  getting  more  product  from  the 
operative  because  of  the  beneficial  physical  effect  of  a 
suitable  atmosphere,  and  the  lessening  of  labor  required  on 
the  machinery.  The  human  system  is  fed  by  oxygen  in  the 
air.  A  room  may  be  well  moistened,  yet  poorly  ventilated. 
Proper  systems  of  humidification  cleanse  and  cool  the  air  and 
absorb  a  certain  amount  of  soluble  gases.  To  replace  the 
waste  of  oxygen  new  air  must  be  supplied.  If  ventilation  is 
not  continuous  by  means  of  the  methods  in  use,  the  rooms 
should  be  ventilated  before  running  hours  and  the  fresh  air 
humidified  before  the  help  come  in. 

The  same  percentage  of  humidity,  or  the  **relative 
humidity,''  as  it  is  known,  does  not  necessarily  produce  the 
same  physical  result  at  all  temperatures.  A  definite 
percentage  of  humidity  at  one  temperature  may  make  the 
conditions  very  disagreeable  to  the  operative  at  another 
temperature.  The  English  Factory  Laws,  for  instance, 
allow  a  relative  humidity  of  88  per  cent,  at  60  degrees  of  the 
dry  bulb,  but  only  64  per  cent,  at  100  degrees.  The  75  per 
cent,  which  some  accept  as  a  general  standard,  is  only 
authorized  by  the  Cotton  Factory  Act,  at  a  dry  bulb 
temperature  of  less  than  82  degrees.  It  is  generally 
understood  that  the  operatives  prefer  a  temperature  of 
between  70  degrees  and  76  degrees  of  the  dry  bulb,  but  it  is 
not  always  possible  to  regulate  the  temperature  as  desired 
in  hot  weather.    The  use  of  humidification  to  cool  the  air 


100 


HUMIDITY, 


in  hot  weather  often  produces  a  higher  percentage  of 
humidity  than  is  recommended  in  any  standard  table.  The 
cooling  effect  lessens  as  the  humidity  increases.  It  must  be 
understood  that  proper  humidification  is  impossible  unless 
good  thermometers  are  used,  and  unless  the  wet  bulb  is 
properly  moistened,  and  used  with  clean  wicking.  The  wet 
bulb  thermometer  should  be  at  sufficient  distance  so  that  the 
moisture  in  the  wick,  or  the  water  holder,  will  not  affect  the 
dry  bulb.  Wet  and  dry  bulb  thermometers  give  the 
conditions  of  the  atmosphere  in  their  immediate  vicinity.  In 
large  rooms  it  is  necessary  to  have  several  sets  of  apparatus. 
By  having  several  sets,  errors  can  be  readily  found  by 
hanging  them  in  pairs  to  note  whether  they  register  alike. 
A  uniform  standard  of  humidification  assists  the  operation  of 
such  machinery  as  relies  for  its  regularity  of  operation  upon 
climatic  conditions.  Looms  have  a  delicate  adjustment  of 
pick  which  is  affected  by  moisture.  Cards  are  affected  by 
electricity  when  the  air  is  dry.  Spinning  frames  vary  their 
band  tension  as  the  humidification  changes,  etc. 

While  we  give  tables  of  relative  and  actual  humidity, 
the  average  mill  man  merely  needs  to  know  how  low  his  wet 
bulb  thermometer  should  read  by  comparison  with  the  dry 
bulb.  We  have  tried  to  submit  a  table  in  simple,  usable 
form  for  mill  managers,  without  fractions  or  decimals. 

While  our  table  is  not  like  any  other  printed,  it  varies 
but  slightly  from  those  adopted  by  the  leading  makers  of 
humidifying  apparatus,  the  weave  room  standard  being 
similar  to  the  limits  allowed  by  the  English  Cotton  Factory 
Act  used  by  the  American  Moistening  Company,  and  the  first 
two  tables  vary  little  from  those  published  for  use  with  the 
Cramer  Automatic  Regulator. 


HUMIDITY. 


101 


DRAPER  TABLE  OF  RECOMMENDED  HUMIDITY 
For  Cotton  Mill  Conditions. 


WEAVE  ROOM, 


WET  BULB. 


58 
59 
60 

61 

62 
63 
64 
65 

66 

67 
68 
69 
70 
71 
72 

73 

74 
75 

76 

77 
78 

79 

80 
81 


84 

85 

86 
87 


90 


SPINNING 
ROOM. 


WET  BULB. 


56 
57 
58 

59 

60 
61 
62 
63 

64 


67 


70 

71 

72 
73 

74 

75 
76 

77 


81 
82 

83 

84 
85 


87 


We  print  this  table  on  a  stiff  card  for  convenience  of  mill 
superintendents  and  overseers,  and  we  will  furnish  same  on  application. 

RELATIVE  AND  ACTUAL  HUMIDITY. 
In  our  catalogue  of  1887,  we  printed  tables  of  relative  and  actual 
humidity  like  those  in  use  by  the  United  States  Signal  Service  and  have 
reproduced  them  in  later  issues.  These  tables,  however,  are  not  prepared 
by  use  of  the  ordinary  wet  and  dry  bulb  thermometers,  and  vary  slightly 
from  the  English  tables  of  James  Glaisher,  F.  R.  S.  which  are  based  on  wet 
and  dry  bulb  thermometers  similar  to  those  in  ordinary  use.  The  Glaisher 
tables  are  based  on  a  barometric  pressure  of  29  inches,  and  since  they  are 
used  by  the  leading  introducers  of  air  moistening  machinery,  we  prefer  to 
follow  them,  under  the  present  conditions.  In  order  to  condense  we  only 
give  such  readings  as  are  thought  necessary  for  the  conditions  in  Cotton 
Mills. 


102 


HUMIDITY, 


u 

o  •*-> 

1 

o 

.  u 

y 

0  ^ 

i 

u 

0  -M 

0 

bo  fi 

.si 

Cubi 
Air. 

ding 
nome 

S 

ding 
nome 

1 

P  u 

If 

s 

Cub 
Air. 

I 

1 

K 

Rea 
Then 

W 

Rea 
Then 

W 

It 

w 

*H 

O 

T  -"^ 

S8 

0 

Co 

\% 

*o 

CO 
u  0 

0 

V 

c  0 

I 

> 

I 

>• 

V 
V 

0  5 

> 

S 
> 

u 

0) 

bo 

-»-» 

u 

bo 

(U 

Q 

Q 

Q 

Q 

Q 

Q 

60 

60 

100 

5.8 

65 

65 

100 

6.8 

70 

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104 


SPINNING. 


BREAKING  STRENGTH  OF  YARN. 

In  1886  we  prepared  a  breaking  strength  table  after 
testing  samples  from  two  hundred  and  twenty-five 
representative  mills.  We  print  it  alongside  our  present  table 
for  comparison. 

In  1886  there  were  very  few  combers  in  use  in  this 
country,  and  a  large  proportion  of  the  yarn  was  made  from 
single  roving  with  old-fashioned  top  flat  cards,  smaller  rings 
and  lower  speeds  than  are  now  used.  Some  of  these 
conditions  favor  the  quality  of  the  yarn,  but  to  offset  them 
we  have  a  higher  general  skill  in  management,  improved 
machinery  and  better  knowledge  of  how  to  get  good  results 
from  the  machines. 

In  American  mills,  the  breaking  strength  is  ascertained 
by  use  of  a  strength  tester,  operated  by  hand  or  power, 
which  handles  a  skein  made  with  80  revolutions  of  a  reel 
a  yard  and  a  half  in  circumference.  As  the  skein  is  in  the 
form  of  a  loop,  the  machine  really  tests  the  strength  of  160 
strands  of  yarn.  This  number  is  arranged  so  that  the  result 
in  pounds  will  read  just  ten  times  the  result  in  ounces  by 
testing  single  yarn  strands  with  a  single  thread  tester;  for, 
if  we  take  the  result  in  ounces  and  divide  by  16  to  get  the 
quotient  in  pounds,  we  arrive  at  the  same  figures  as  when 
dividing  the  record  of  the  skein  tester  by  160  to  get  the 
single  thread  quotient.  Breaking  strength  is  usually  taken 
by  reeling  skeins  from  at  least  four  bobbins  and  averaging 
the  results  from  all  after  breaking  one  or  more  skeins  from 
each  bobbin.  In  such  a  system  it  is  evident  that  the  average 
result  produced  by  no  means  shows  the  variation  in  single 
yarns.  This  fact  is  emphasized  when  the  same  yarn  is  tested 
by  a  single  thread  tester.  It  must  be  remembered  that  the 
machine  for  testing  the  breaking  strength  of  skeins  cannot 
give  the  actual  average  strength  of  the  yarn,  for  it  is 
impossible  to  get  the  tension  on  all  the  160  separate  yarn 
sections  equal.  A  few  strands  break  first,  bringing  the 
whole  strain  on  a  lesser  number.  The  error  is  fairly 
constant,  so  that  the  machine  answers  for  comparative 
purposes. 

The  hand  driven  tester  is  not  suitable  for  accurate 
comparisons,  for  the  operator  cannot  give  a  steady  motion  to 
the  wheel  under  a  continually  increasing  strain.  We  have 
seen  the  same  yarn  show  wide  comparative  differences  when 
tested  on  a  hand  breaker  and  a  power  breaker.    Owing  to 


SPINNING. 


105 


the  steadier  strain,  the  yarn  breaks  stronger  with  a 
power-driven  tester;  and  it  must  be  remembered  that  our 
table  is  made  up  from  results  so  obtained.  Ours  is  a  Brown 
Bros,  tester  run  at  a  speed  of  190  revolutions  per  minute. 
We  are  glad  at  any  time  to  test  yarn  for  mills  which  have  no 
power  driven  tester  so  that  they  may  see  how  nearly  their 
yarn  comes  to  our  table  when  tested  under  similar  conditions. 
Those  whose  yarn  does  not  break  as  well  as  our  table,  when 
tested  with  a  hand  tester,  need  not  necessarily  assume  that 
their  yarn  is  inferior. 

As  the  usable  value  of  yarn  does  not  consist  in  the 
strength  of  a  combined  number  of  threads  but  in  the 
regularity  of  strength  of  single  threads,  a  single-thread 
yarn  tester  is  desirable.  We  are  agents  for  a  power 
driven  machine  which  automatically  makes  80  breaks  of 
single  threads  drawn  from  six  bobbins  simultaneously. 
Each  break  is  recorded  on  a  chart  and  the  weak  places  in  the 
yarn  are  exposed.  A  single-thread  tester  gives  higher 
results  than  a  skein  tester.  We  have  found  it  to  vary  from 
15  to  20  per  cent.  The  variation  in  single  yarns  is  naturally 
much  greater  than  in  skeins,  since  the  breaking  of  many 
strands  together  necessarily  trends  toward  uniformity.  We 
have  found  yarn  that  broke  in  skeins  from  46  to  54  pounds, 
show  from  4  to  7  ounces  on  a  single-thread  tester,  which  is 
equivalent  to  40  to  70  pounds  on  the  skein.  Skeins  showing 
from  105  to  128  pounds  on  the  skein  tester,  varied  from  12 
ounces  to  20  ounces,  or  from  120  to  200  pounds  on  the 
single-thread  tester.  Yarn  showing  152  to  208  pounds  on 
skein  tests,  varied  from  16  ounces  to  23^^  ounces  on 
single-thread  test,  or  equivalent  to  160  to  235  for  skein  test. 

Variations  in  strength  of  yarn  are  due,  in  part,  to 
variations  in  size,  but  they  do  not  necessarily  follow  the 
variations  in  size  with  uniformity.  Yarn  is  made  weak  by 
lack  of  twist,  and  also  made  weak  by  excessive  twist. 
Different  bobbins  from  the  same  frame  will  vary  on  account 
of  differences  in  rolls,  rings,  travelers,  ring  setting,  etc.  It 
is  not  safe  to  draw  conclusions  from  single  tests  or  single 
lots.  Variations  in  size  or  number  are  important  since  a 
variation  from  standard  may  give  the  mill's  customer  less  or 
more  product  than  called  for.  Variation  in  yarn  is  evidence 
of  improper  selection  of  processes,  or  improper  running  of 
the  machinery  in  the  preparatory  department.  No  one  has 
definitely  settled  by  comparative  tests  the  best  and  most 
economical  method  of  preparing  strong,  even  yarn.  There 
are  still  those  who  claim  that  a  multiplicity  of  doublings 
and  drawings  weakens  the  yarn,   and  it  is  not  proven 


106 


SPINNING. 


just  where  the  doublings  should  be  made.  It  is  possible 
that  we  may  some  day  find  that  a  proper  doubling  and 
evening  of  the  sliver  at  some  particular  stage  of  manufacture 
will  allow  less  processes,  or  less  doublings,  in  other  stages. 

There  is  a  general  impression  that  yarn  wound  from 
a  full  bobbin  is  stronger  than  that  wound  off  nearer  the  bare 
bobbin.  We  have  gone  into  exhaustive  tests  to  determine 
whether  this  theory  is  correct,  and  find  that  while  there  is  no 
uniformity,  the  yarn  first  spun  often  breaks  stronger  while 
actually  finer  in  number.  In  one  test  we  tested  all  the  yarn 
on  four  bobbins  made  from  Middling  cotton,  single  carding, 
twist  24.40,  spun  with  1%  inch  ring,  63^  inches  traverse. 
There  were  17  skeins  of  yarn  on  each  bobbin,  making  68 
skeins  tested  in  all.  The  yarn  averaged  in  number  15.82  and 
the  breaking  strength  averaged  109.  The  weakest  skein 
broke  95  pounds  and  the  strongest  125.  The  number  of  yarn 
varied  from  14.93  to  17.33.  The  first  16  skeins  averaged  in 
number  15.55,  breaking  an  average  of  106.  The  last  sixteen 
skeins  averaged  in  number  16.03,  breaking  113.6. 

To  show  the  difference  between  yarn  tested  under 
different  conditions  of  humidity,  we  took  four  bobbins  of  yarn 
made  from  Good  Middling  cotton  grown  in  South  Carolina, 
single  carding,  28.45  twist,  spun  on  1%  inch  ring,  63^ 
inches  traverse,  dry  bulb  showed  71,  wet  bulb  66.  The 
average  breaking  strength  was  60  pounds  per  skein,  while 
the  average  number  of  the  yarn  was  29.  We  then  kept  this 
yarn  24  hours  in  a  dry  kiln  with  a  temperature  of  120  degrees 
for  that  period.  The  average  breaking  strength  was  now  55 
pounds,  while  the  average  number  was  29.78.  Next,  we 
soaked  the  yarn  five  minutes  under  water,  merely  drying  off 
the  outside  with  a  towel.  It  then  showed  64  pounds  breaking 
strength,  average  number  28.70.  We  next  soaked  the  yarn 
40  hours  under  water  and  it  broke  66.50,  average  number  of 
yarn  26.13.  The  variation  in  the  yarn  numbering  came  from 
the  additional  weight  of  the  water  absorbed.  This  would 
show  the  extremes  of  dryness  and  wetness  to  be  about  10  per 
cent,  below  or  above  the  standard. 

The  warp  yarn  tested  for  the  tables  was  mostly  single 
carded  on  revolving  flat  cards,  and  averaged  about  Strict 
Middling  in  grade.  The  combed  yarn  tests  were  made  from 
American  yarn  sent  in,  which  averaged  slightly  under  Good 
Middling  in  grade.  The  soft-twisted  yarn  was  of  various 
kinds  and  used  for  various  purposes.  In  these  tests  the 
stronger  twisted  filling  was  eliminated.  The  average  twist 
of  the  yarn  tested  was  very  close  to  3.25  times  the  square 
root  of  the  number. 


SPINNING. 


107 


The  most  surprising  thing  about  the  tests  was  the 
strength  of  the  soft  twisted  yarn  in  the  coarser  numbers, 
this  running  at  times  higher  than  our  old  standard  for  warp. 

Owing  to  delay  in  arrival  of  yarn  and  in  getting  proper 
machinery  for  testing,  the  yarn  tested  probably  averaged  an 
aging  of  at  least  six  months.  It  was  kept  in  our  weave  room 
during  this  time  under  fairly  uniform  conditions  of  humidity. 
At  the  time  of  the  tests  the  humidity  in  the  weave  room 
averaged  quite  closely  to  the  humidity  standard  which  we 
recommend  for  the  spinning  room.  Certain  mills  made  much 
more  even  yarn  than  others  on  the  same  numbers.  It  was 
noticed  that  the  combed  yarn  varied  considerably  in  number. 
There  was  not  enough  yarn  supplied  to  make  a  comparative 
test  of  Combed  Egyptian,  Sea  Island  and  American  cotton. 
Sea  Island  and  Fancy  Georgia  cottons  naturally  broke 
stronger  than  the  ordinary  American  grades,  and  also  better 
than  the  Egyptian  grades.  No  attempt  was  made  to  classify 
according  to  length  of  staple.  It  must  be  remembered  that 
these  tables  represent  an  average  breaking  strength, 
although  it  is  natural  that  our  samples  should  largely  come 
from  the  mills  that  are  making  the  better  yarns. 

As  the  yarn  numbers  vary  constantly,  and  as  the  twist 
in  different  classes  of  yarn  is  also  fairly  constant,  the  curve 
plotted  from  the  breaking  strengths  should  also  be  a  constant 
curve.  The  purpose  of  testing  the  hundreds  of  sample  yarns 
sent  has  been  to  find  out  by  the  actual  results  just  what 
constant  curve  will  most  uniformly  meet  the  actual 
conditions.  The  results  given  in  the  tables  are  taken  from 
constant  curves  without  giving  the  decimals,  as  the  strength 
tester  cannot  be  read  to  decimal  results.  Anyone  wishing  to 
make  a  very  careful  or  scientific  comparison  of  yarns  should 
accurately  compute  the  result  to  decimals,  using  the 
following  rules. 


108 


SPINNING. 


STANDARD  WARP  YARN. 

Weigh  the  skein  after  breaking  and  divide  1000  by  the 
weight  to  get  number  of  yarn  (or  use  tables  in  our  book  or 
the  table  printed  on  one  sheet  which  we  supply);  then  add 
this  to  1900  and  divide  by  the  number. 

Example:  Skein  weighs  45.3  grains.  1000  divided  by 
45.3  gives  22.08  the  number  of  the  yarn.  1900+22.08= 
1922.08-^22.08=87.05  which  is  the  standard  breaking  weight 
for  this  number. 

If  several  skeins  are  broken  the  average  weight  can  be 
used. 

For  combed  warp  yarn  the  standard  is  obtained  by 
multiplying  the  number  by  four,  subtracting  from  2600  and 
dividing  the  remainder  by  the  number. 

For  soft  twisted  yarn  the  standard  is  obtained  by 
multiplying  the  number  by  13,  subtracting  from  1900  and 
dividing  the  remainder  by  the  number. 


Our  tables  do  not  give  figures  for  carded  warp  or  soft 
twist  ^bove  number  50.  They  can  be  easily  figured  if 
required.  The  +  and  —  signs  signify  decimals.  For  instance 
62.30  would  be  given  as  62+  while  62.70  would  be  given  as 
63—.  31,51  would  be  given  as  32—  while  31.50  would  be 
given  as  31+  . 


SPINNING. 


109 


DRAPER  TABLES 

OF 

BREAKING  TYEIGHTS  OF  AMERICA:N'  YARNS 
Spun  from  American  Cotton. 
Averaged  from  Sample  Skein  Tests  from 
Several  Hundred  American  Mills. 


w  be  c3 
u 


1000 

1 

500 

2 

333.3 

3 

530 

250 

4 

410 

200 

5 

330 

166.7 

6 

275 

142.9 

7 

237.6 

125 

8 

209 

111.1 

9 

186.5 

100 

10 

168.7 

90.9 

11 

154.1 

83.3 

12 

142 

76.9 

13 

131.5 

71.4 

14 

122.8 

66.7 

15 

115.1 

62.5 

16 

108.4 

58.8 

17 

102.5 

55.6 

18 

97.3 

52.6 

19 

92.6 

50 

20 

88.3 

47.6 

21 

83.8 

45.5 

22 

79.7 

43.5 

23 

75.9 

41.7 

24 

72.4 

40 

25 

69.2 

38.5 

26 

66.3 

37 

27 

63.6 

35.7 

28 

61.3 

34.5 

29 

59.2 

33.3 

30 

57.3 

32.3 

31 

55.6 

31.3 

32 

54 

30.3 

3:3 

52.6 

29.4 

34 

51.2 

28.6 

35 

50 

27.8 

36 

48.7 

27 

37 

47.6 

26.3 

38 

46.5 

25.6 

39 

45.5 

40 

44.6 

24.4 

41 

43.8 

23.8 

42 

43 

23.3 

43 

42.2 

22.7 

44 

41.4 

22.2 

45 

40.7 

21.7 

46 

40 

21.3 

47 

39.3 

20.8 

48 

38.6 

20.4 

49 

37.9 

20 

50 

37.3 

old 


NEW 
o 


634+ 
476— 
381 

318— 
272+ 
238— 
212— 

191 

174— 
159+ 
147+ 
137— 
128— 
120— 
113— 
107— 
101 

96 

914- 
87+ 
84- 
80+ 
77 

74+ 
71+ 
69- 
67— 

64+ 
62+ 
60+ 
59— 
57- 
55+ 
54— 
52+ 
51 

50— 

48+ 
47— 
46— 
45— 
44— 
43— 
42— 
41— 
41- 
40— 
39 


NEW 


863— 

646 

516 

429+ 

367+ 

321 

285— 

256 

232+ 

213- 

196 

182— 

169+ 

158+ 

149— 

140+ 

133— 

126 
120- 
114+ 
109+ 
104+ 
100 
96 

92+ 
89— 


83- 
80- 
77+ 
75— 
72+ 
70-- 
68— 
66— 
64— 
63- 

61 

59+ 
58— 
56+ 
55+ 
54— 
53— 
51+ 
50— 
49— 


NEW 

120  yards 

Weight 
in  Grains. 

Number 
of  Yarn. 

Breaking  ^ 
Weight  ^ 
of  Warp  M 
Yarn. 

1Q  A 

ly.D 

51 

36.6 

19.2 

53 

36.1 

620+ 

18.9 

53 

35.5 

462 

18.5 

54 

34.9 

367 

18.2 

55 

34.4 

304- 

17  0 

i<  .y 

56 

33.8 

258- 

17.5 

57 

33.4 

224- 

17.2 

58 

32.8 

198- 

17 

59 

32.3 

177 

16.7 

60 

31.7 

160— 

16.4 

61 

31.3 

145+ 

16.1 

62 

30.8 

133+ 

15.9 

63 

80.4 

123- 

15.6 

64 

30 

114- 

10.4 

65 

29.6 

106- 

15.2 

66 

29.2 

99- 

14.9 

67 

28.8 

93- 

14.7 

68 

28.5 

87 

14.5 

69 

28.2 

82 

14.0 

70 

27.8 

77- 

14.1 

71 

27.4 

73- 

I 

13.9 

72 

27.1 

70- 

13.7 

73 

26.8 

66+ 

13.5 

74 

26.5 

63 

13.3 

75 

26.2 

60+ 

13.2 

76 

25.8 

57+ 

13 

77 

25.5 

55- 

12.8 

78 

25.3 

53- 

12.7 

79 

24.9 

50- 

12.5 

86 

24.6 

48- 

12.4 

81 

24.3 

46- 

12.2 

82 

24 

45— 

12.1 

83 

23.7 

43— 

11.9 

84 

23.4 

41+ 

]1.8 

85 

23.2 

40- 

11.6 

86 

22.8 

38+ 

11.5 

87 

22.6 

37 

11.4 

88 

22.4 

36— 

11.2 

89 

22.2 

34H 

11.1 

90 

22 

33- 

11 

91 

21.7 

32- 

10.9 

92 

21.5 

31- 

10.8 

93 

21.3 

30- 

10.6 

94 

21.2 

29- 

10.5 

95 

21 

28- 

10.4 

96 

20.7 

27- 

10.3 

97 

20.5 

27- 

10.2 

98 

20.4 

26- 

10.1 

99 

20.2 

25 

10 

100 

20 

no 


SPINNING. 


RULES  FOR  SPINNERS. 

To  find  the  draught  of  a  spinning  frame : — 

Write  down  the  number  of  teeth  in  all  the  driving-wheels, 
and  multiply  them  together.  Then  write  down  the  number 
of  teeth  in  all  the  wheels  that  are  driven,  and  multiply  them 
together  in  like  manner.  If  there  is  any  difference  in  the 
diameter  of  the  rollers,  multiply  the  least,  or  driver's 
product,  by  the  diameter  of  the  back  roller;  and  the  largest 
product,  or  that  of  the  driven  wheels,  by  the  diameter  of  the 
front  roller.  Divide  the  product  of  the  driven  wheels  by 
that  of  the  drivers,  and  the  quotient  will  be  the  draught  of 
the  machine. 

To  change  the  draught-gear  on  a  spinning-frame  ivhen  changing  to  a 
different  numher  of  yarn  and  the  draught  and  roving  have  both  to 
he  altered : — 

Multiply  the  number  of  yarn  being  spun,  by  the  hank 
roving  desired,  and  that  product  by  the  number  of  teeth  in 
the  change  pinion  being  used;  divide  the  product  thus 
obtained  by  the  number  of  yarn  desired,  multiplied  by  the 
hank  roving  being  used.  The  quotient  will  show  the  change 
pinion  required. 

To  change  the  draught  gear  vjhen  changing  from  one  numher  of  yarn 
to  anotJier  without  changing  the  roving : — 
Multiply  the  number  of  teeth  in  the  change  pinion  in  use 
by  the  number  of  yarn  spun.    This  product  divided  by  the 
number  of  yarn  desired  will  give  the  change  pinion  required. 

To  change  the  twist-gear  ichen  changing  to  a  different  numher  of 
yarn : — 

Square  the  number  of  teeth  in  the  present  gear,  and 
multiply  by  the  number  of  yarn  being  spun.  Divide  this 
product  by  the  number  of  the  yarn  desired;  the  square  root 
of  the  quotient  will  show  the  proper  number  of  teeth  for  the 
new  gear. 

To  find  ichat  per  cent,  yarn  contracts  in  tv'isting : — 

Divide  the  number  of  the  yarn  by  the  product  of  the 
draught  and  hank  roving,  and  subtract  the  quotient  from  1, 
Example:   Suppose  No.  28.5  yarn  is  being  spun  from  4-hank 


SPINNING. 


Ill 


roving,  with  a  draught  of  7. 26.  7. 26  X  4=29. 04.  28. 5-f-29. 04= 
0.98,  which  subtracted  from  1.00  leaves  .02,  or  two  per 
cent.  =the  contraction  in  length. 


To  find  the  loss  of  twist  in  spinning : — 

By  the  **loss  of  twist''  is  meant  the  amount  the  actual 
twist  is  less  than  that  found  by  computing  from  the  speed  of 
the  spindle.  Bule:  Divide  1  by  the  circumference  of  the 
bobbin  in  inches.  Example:  Suppose  a  filling  bobbin  is  13^ 
inches  in  circumference  at  the  barrel.  l-f-1.5=0.67=loss 
there.  If  it  is  3  inches  in  circumference  at  the  outside  the 
loss  there=l-^3=0.33.  Average  loss  from  computed  twist 
0.50,  or  half  a  turn  per  inch. 


The  best  way  to  find  the  actual  speed  of  spindles : — 

Make  some  mark  on  the  end  of  the  cylinder  so  an 
assistant  can  turn  it  by  hand  slowly  just  once  around.  Mark 
the  heads  of  several  bobbins,  or  mark  the  whorls  of  the 
spindles,  so  as  to  be  able  to  count  the  average  number  of 
turns  of  the  spindle  to  one  turn  of  the  cylinder.  Then 
multiply  this  number  by  the  revolutions  per  minute  the 
cylinder  makes,  ascertained  carefully  with  a  good  speed- 
counter;  or,  attach  revolving-shaft  of  a  speed-counter  to  tip 
of  spindle  with  a  rubber  tube. 

The  result  obtained  by  either  of  these  methods  is  nearer 
the  actual  speed  of  the  spindle  than  the  result  obtained  from 
computation  in  the  usual  way,  because  of  the  differences  due 
to  the  size  of  the  banding  and  the  angle  of  the  groove  in  the 
whorl. 

To  find  the  length  of  yarn  on  a  bobbin : — 

Multiply  the  circumference  of  the  front  roll  in  inches  by 
the  number  of  revolutions  per  minute,  and  this  product  by 
the  number  of  minutes  required  to  fill  the  bobbin;  divide  by 
36  and  deduct  the  contraction  in  twisting,  and  the  result  will 
be  the  number  of  yards  on  the  bobbin. 


To  determine  the  twist  of  a  spinning  frame : — 

Multiply  the  teeth  in  driven  gears  for  a  dividend;  divide 
this  by  the  teeth  in  cylinder  gear;  then  multiply  this  by  the 
ratio  between  the  cylinder  and  whorl  and  then  divide  by 


112 


SPINNING, 


3.1416  for  a  constant.  This  constant  divided  by  the  twist 
gear  used  will  give  the  twist  in  one  inch  of  yarn,  thus : 

Ratio  between 

Drivers.  cyl.  cyl.  &  whorl. 

85  X  91=7735-^-30  =  257. 8  X  7. 60=1959. 28-f-3. 1416=623. 65 
=  constant. 

This  divided  by  twist  gear  will  give  the  twist  in  one  inch 
of  yarn,  or  divided  by  twist  required  will  give  the  twist  gear. 

To  determine  the  size  of  a  cord^  when  yarn  of  several  differeyit  sizes 
have  been  used  to  make  it : — 

Reduce  each  yarn  to  grains,  add  the  grains  together  and 
divide  1000  by  their  sum;  the  result  will  be  the  size  of  cord. 
Thus: 

12s,  16s  &  18s  twisted  together. 
12s  reduced  to  grains  equals  83.33 
16s  62.50 
18s  55.56 

201.39  divided  into  1000 
equals  4.96  equals  the 
size  of  the  cord. 

One  way  to  determine  a  constant  for  twist : — 

Spin  together  two  rovings  of  the  same  hank,  one  white 
and  one  black;  then  count  the  turns  of  twist  in  one  inch. 
This  multiplied  by  teeth  in  the  twist  gear  will  give  constant; 
this  constant  divided  by  twist  required  will  give  twist  gear  to 
use,  or  dividing  by  twist  gear  used  will  give  twist  in  one  inch 
|f  yarn. 

Another  way  to  find  the  draft  on  a  spinning  frame : — 

Multiply  the  driving  gears  together,  and  this  product  by 
7  if  the  middle  and  back  rolls  are  %  inches  in  diameter,  for  a 
divisor;  multiply  all  driven  gears  together,  and  that  product 
by  8,  if  the  front  rolls  are  one  inch  in  diameter,  for  a 
dividend;  and  the  quotient  will  be  the  draft.  If  you  want  a 
constant  number,  multiply  the  teeth  of  the  change  gears  that 
you  use  on  these  frames  by  the  draft  thus  obtained,  and  the 
result  is  the  constant  number,  thus: 

Back  Front       Draft  of 

Stud  Roll       Roll  Draft     Frame  Constant. 
(70X55X8)  -^-  (20X30X7)  =7.333  X  30=220. 
This  divided  by  draft  required  will  give  gear  to  use. 


SPINNING. 


113 


To  determine  the  product  of  a  spindle  per  week: — 

Divide  the  number  of  revolutions  of  the  front  roll  per 
minute  by  3,  for  a  week  of  60  hours;  the  quotient  will  be  the 
number  of  hanks  per  week;  to  reduce  to  pounds,  divide  by 
the  yarn  number. 

For  weeks  of  different  hours  the  divisors  are  as 
follows :  — 


60  hours,  divisor  =  3. 
58  hours,  divisor  =  3.1 
56  hours,  divisor  =  3.21 
55  hours,  divisor  =  3.27 
54  hours,  divisor  =  3.33 
50  hours,  divisor  =  3.6 


The  result  by  this  rule  makes  allowance  for  loss  in 
doffing,  etc. 


To  determine  the  ratio  between  the  cylinder  and  whorl : — 

Divide  the  diameter  of  the  cylinder  plus  the  diameter  of 
the  band  by  the  diameter  of  whorl  plus  the  diameter  of  band, 
thus. 

Cylinder,  7  in. 

Dia.  of  band  % 


The  whorl  is  i%6  and  band  is  inches,  added  together 
equals  i%6  inches. 

Therefore,  a  cylinder  7  inches  in  diameter,  running  with 
a  whorl  inches  in  diameter  will  turn  the  spindle  7.6 

times. 


Grains.  Drachms.  Ounces.  Pounds.   Ton.   Grammes.  Kilog. 


57 

7^  in.     =  - 

8 


15 

^    —  =  7.6 
16 


Avoirdujjois  TFeight. 


27.34=  1 
437.5  =  16    =  1 
7,000.0  =256    =     16  = 


1 

2000  =  1 


=  1.77184 
=  28.34954 
=  453.59265 


=  907.18 


114 


SPINNING, 


Long  Measure. 


Inches. 

Feet. 

Yards. 

Rods.  Furlongs. 

Mile.  Metres. 

12  = 

1 

=  .3048 

36  = 

3  = 

1 

=  .9144 

198  = 

16.5  = 

5.5 

=  1 

=  5.0291 

7,920  = 

660  = 

220 

=  40    =  1 

=  201.1643 

63,360  = 

5,280  = 

1,760 

=  320    =  8 

1  =  1,609.3145 

DIMENSIONS  OF  CIRCLES. 


Diameter. 

Circum- 
ference. 

Area. 

Diameter. 

Circum- 
ference. 

Area. 

1-64 

.015625 

.04909 

.00019 

3-4 

.75 

2.35619 

.44179 

1-32 

.03125 

.09817 

.00077 

25-32 

.78125 

2.45437 

.47937 

3-64 

.046875 

.14726 

.00173 

13-16 

.8125 

2.55254 

.51849 

1-16 

.0625 

.19635 

.00307 

27-32 

.84375 

2.65072 

.55914 

3-32 

.09375 

.29452 

.00690 

7-8 

.875 

2.74889 

.60132 

1-8 

.125 

.39270 

.01227 

29-32 

.90625 

2.84707 

.64504 

5-32 

.15625 

.49087 

.01917 

15-16 

.9375 

2.94524 

.69029 

3-16 

.1875 

.58905 

.02761 

31-32 

.96875 

3.04342 

.73708 

7-32 

.21875 

.68722 

.03758 

1 

1. 

3.14159 

.78540 

1-4 

.25 

.78540 

.04909 

1-16 

1.0625 

3.33794 

.88664 

9-32 

.28125 

.88357 

.06213 

1-8 

1.125 

3.53429 

.99402 

5-16 

.3125 

.98175 

.07670 

3-16 

1.1875 

3.73064 

1.1075 

11-32 

34375 

1.07992 

.09281 

1-4 

1.25 

3.92699 

1.2272 

3-8 

.375 

1.17810 

.11045 

5-16 

1.3125 

4.12334 

1.3530 

13-32 

.40625 

1.27627 

.12962 

3-8 

1.375 

4.31969 

1.4849 

7-16 

.4375 

1.37445 

.15033 

7-16 

1.4375 

4.51604 

1.6230 

15-32 

.46875 

1.47262 

.17257 

1-2 

1.5 

4.71239 

1.7671 

1-2 

.5 

1.57080 

.19635 

9-16 

1.5625 

4.90874 

1.9175 

17-32 

.53125 

1.66897 

.22166 

5-8 

1.625 

5.10509 

2.0739 

9-16 

.5625 

1.76715 

.24850 

11-16 

1.6875 

5.30144 

2.2365 

19-32 

.59375 

1.86532 

.27688 

3-4 

1.75 

5.49779 

2.4053 

5-8 

.625 

1.96350 

.30680 

13-16 

1.8125 

5.69414 

2.5802 

21-32 

.65625 

2.06167 

.33824 

7-8 

1.875 

5.89049 

2.7612 

11-16 

.6875 

2.15984 

.37122 

15-16 

1.9375 

6.08684 

2.9483 

23-32 

.71875 

2.25802 

.40574 

2 

6.S8319 

3.1416 

SPINNING. 


115 


NUMBERING  YARNS. 

Yarn  is  weighed  by  avoirdupois  weight. 

Silk. 

The  silk-worm  forms  the  cocoon  of  two  parallel  filaments  of  silk;  three 
to  six  cocoons  are  usually  reeled  off  together,  making  a  thread  of  raw  silk 
containing  six  to  twelve  filaments.  One  authority  states  that  500  yards  of 
five  twin  filaments  weigh  about  2.5  grains.  The  number  of  drachms  (27.34 
grains)  that  1000  yards  of  this  raw  silk  weighs  is  the  number. 

Silk  is  sold  in  the  United  States  by  the  number  of  yards  in  one  ounce. 

Sewing  silk  is  numbered  irregularly  by  letters : 
Letter,  000     00      0      A     B     C    D    E   EE   F  FF  G 

Yards  in  one  oz.,      2000  1600  1300  1000  850  650  550  400  330  262  212  125 

Letter  A  silk  has  16,000  yards  in  a  pound,  and  equals  about  a  No.  60 
cotton  sewing  thread  in  weight. 

Silk  that  cannot  be  reeled  is  carded,  spun  and  numbered  like  cotton 
yarn,  and  is  called  spun  silk. 


Linen  and  Jute. 

Barlow's  History  of  "vYeaving,  London  (1878),  gives  the  following  table; 
2^  yards=     1  thread  or  round  of  the  linen  reel. 


300 

=  120 

=1 

cut. 

600 

"     =  240 

"  =2 

**  =  1  heer. 

1,800 

"    =  720 

"  =6 

"  =  3  ' 

'   =1  slip. 

3,600 

=1,440 

"  =12 

"  =  6  * 

'   =2  =lhank. 

7,200 

"  =2,880 

"  =24 

*   =4        =2  =lhasp. 

14,400 

"  =5,760 

"  =48 

<(  —24 

'   =8    "    =4    "    =2    "  = 

1  spyndle. 

The  number  of  cuts  in  one  pound  is  the  number  of  linen  yarn. 

The  number  of  yards  of  linen  yarn  that  weigh  23.33  grains  is  the 
number  of  the  yarn. 

The  numbers  by  which  linen  sewing  threads  are  sold  represent  three 
threads  of  the  number  twisted  together,  that  is,  No.  35  standard  thread  has 
three  strands  of  No.  35  yarn  in  it. 


Table  for  numbering  Linen  Yarn  by  the  weight  in  grains  of 
300  yards  or  i  lea  (or  cut). 


rains.  1 

umber 
fyarn. 

rains.  1 

umber 
fyarn. 

rains.  1 

umber 
fyarn. 

rains.  1 

umber 
fyarn. 

rains. 

umber 
f  yarn. 

rains. 

umber 
f  yarn. 

O 

O 

O 

^  o 

O 

12;  <=> 

O 

^  o 

100 

70. 

260 

26.92 

420 

16.67 

580 

12.07 

800 

8.75 

1500 

4.67 

110 

63.64 

270 

25.93 

430 

16.28 

590 

11.86 

825 

8.48 

1600 

4.37 

120 

58.33 

280 

25. 

440 

15.91 

600 

11.67 

850 

8.24 

1700 

4.12 

130 

53.85 

290 

24.14 

450 

15.56 

610 

11.48 

875 

8. 

1800 

3.89 

140 

50. 

300 

23.33 

460 

15.22 

620 

11.29 

900 

7.78 

1900 

3.68 

150 

46.67 

310 

22.58 

470 

14.89 

630 

11.11 

925 

7.57 

2000 

3.50 

160 

43.75 

320 

21.87 

480 

14.58 

640 

10.94 

950 

7.37 

2250 

3.11 

170 

41.18 

330 

21.21 

490 

14.29 

650 

10.77 

975 

7.18 

2500 

2.80 

180 

38.89 

340 

20.59 

500 

14. 

660 

10.61 

1000 

7. 

2750 

2.55 

190 

36.84 

350 

20. 

510 

13.73 

670 

10.45 

1050 

6.67 

3000 

2.33 

200 

35. 

360 

19.44 

520 

13.46 

680 

10.29 

1100 

6.36 

3250 

2.15 

210 

33.33 

370 

18.92 

530 

13.21 

690 

10.14 

1150 

6.09 

3500 

2. 

220 

31.82 

380 

18.42 

540 

12.96 

700 

10. 

1200 

5.83 

4000 

1.75 

230 

30.43 

390 

17.95 

550 

12.73 

725 

9.66 

1250 

5.60 

5000 

1.40 

240 

29.17 

400 

17.50 

560 

12.50 

750 

9.33 

1300 

5.38 

6000 

1.17 

250 

28. 

410 

17.07 

570 

12.28 

775 

9.03 

1400 

5. 

7000 

1. 

116 


NUMBERING  YARNS. 


Woollen. 


1  yard=l  thread  or  round  of  the  woollen  reel. 
80        =1  knot. 
300        =3|    "    =1  cut. 
1,600    "  =20  =5^   ♦*  =1  run. 

2,000    "  =25         =6|   "  =1^    "  =1  bier. 
The  number  of  runs  in  one  pound  is  the  number  of  woollen  yarn. 
The  number  of  yards  of  woollen  yarn  that  weigh  4.375  grains  is  the 
number  of  the  yarn. 


Table  for  numbering  Woollen  Yarn  by  the  weight  in  grains  of 
twenty  yards,  or  one  fourth  of  a  knot. 


OD 

a 

«0 

a 

00 

CO 

a 

CO 

a 

OQ 

a 

CD 

oc 

a 

0 

s 

1 

a 

3 

2 

a 

3 

•i 

3 

"3 

u 

a 

3 

•3 

u 

i 

o 

« 

o 

o 

O 

O 

Pi 

O 

1 

87.50 

18 

4.86 

35 

2.50 

52 

1.68 

69 

1.27 

86 

1.02 

2 

43.75 
29.17 

19 
20 

4.61 
4.37 

36 
37 

2.43 
2.36 

53 
54 

1.65 

70 

1.25 

87 

1.01 

3 

1.62 

71 

1.23 

88 

.99 

4 

21.87 

21 

4.17 

38 

2.30 

55 

1.59 

72 

1.22 

89 

.98 

5 

17.50 

22 

3.98 

39 

2.24 

56 

1.56 

73 

1.20 

90 

.97 

6 

14.58 

23 

3.80 

40 

2.19 

57 

1.54 

74 

1.18 

91 

.96 

7 

12.50 

24 

3.65 

41 

2.13 

58 

1.51 

75 

1.17 

92 

.95 

8 

10.94 

25 

3.50 

42 

2.08 

59 

1.48 

76 

1.15 

93 

.94 

9 

9.72 

26 

3.37 

43 

2.03 

60 

1.46 

77 

1.14 

94 

.93 

10 

8.75 

27 

3.24 

44 

1.99 

61 

1.43 

78 

1.12 

95 

.92 

11 

7.95 

28 

3.12 

45 

1.94 

62 

1.41 

79 

1.11 

96 

.91 

12 

7.29 

29 

3.02 

46 

1.90 

63 

1.38 

80 

1.09 

97 

.90 

13 

6.73 

30 

2.92 

47 

1.86 

64 

1.37 

81 

1.08 

98 

.89 

14 

6.25 

31 

2.82 

48 

1.82 

65 

1.35 

82 

1.07 

99 

.88 

15 

5.83 

32 

2.73 

49 

1.79 

66 

1.33 

83 

1.05 

100 

.87 

16 

6.47 

33 

2.65 

50 

1.75 

67 

1.31 

84 

1.04 

17 

5.15 

34 

2.57 

51 

1.72 

68 

1.29 

85 

1.03 

The  number  of  yarn  of  different  sizes  represents  the 
proportionate  size  of  No.  1  yarn,  and  to  determine  the  size  or 
number  of  a  thread  composed  of  strands  of  different  numbers 
twisted  together,  it  is  only  necessary  to  add  together  the 
proportionate  sizes  of  the  separate  strands.  A  single  example 
will  illustrate  :  3  run,  4  run,  5  run  and  6  run  twisted  together 
will  make  yarn  the  size  of  Vs  +  H+V^+Vq  of  1  run,  or  '^%o+ 
^%o+^%o+^%o=^y6o  of  1  run  ;  not  quite  so  large  as  one  run, 
but  exactly  57-^-60=.95  run. 

Worsted. 


1  yard,  =1  thread  or  round  of  the  worsted  reel. 
80    "     =80     "    =1  lea  or  knot. 
560    "   =560     "    =7  "  •*  =lhank. 

The  number  of  hanks  in  one  pound  is  the  number  of  worsted  yarn. 
The  number  of  a  worsted  yarn  of  a  given  length  which  equals  in 
weight  a  cotton  yarn  of  the  same  length,  is  equal  to  the  cotton  number 
multiplied  by  1.5.   No.  60  cotton   No.  90  worsted. 

The  number  of  yards  of  worsted  yarn  that  weigh  12.5  grains  is  the 
number  of  the  yarn. 


NUMBERING    YARNS.  117 


Table  for  numbering  Worsted  Yarn   by  the  weight  in  graiivs  of 
twenty  yards,  or  one  fourth  of  a  knot. 


No. 

No. 

No. 

ains. 

No. 

.9 

No. 

No. 

.s 
*s 

of 

9 

of 

"i 

of 

of 

of 

1 

of 

o 

Yarn. 

Yarn. 

Yarn. 

o 

Yarn. 

o 

Yarn. 

Yarn. 

1 

250. 

19 

13.16 

37 

6.76 

55 

4.55 

73 

3.42 

91 

2.75 

2 

125. 

20 

12.50 

38 

6.58 

56 

4.46 

74 

3.38 

92 

2.72 

3 

83.33 

21 

11.90 

39 

6.41 

57 

4.39 

75 

3.33 

93 

2.69 

4 

62.50 

22 

11.36 

40 

6.25 

58 

4.31 

76 

3.29 

94 

2.66 

5 

50. 

23 

10.87 

41 

6.10 

59 

4.24 

77 

3.25 

95 

2.63 

41.67 

24 

10  42 

42 

5.95 

60 

4  17 

78 

3.21 

96 

2.60 

7 

35!71 

25 

lo! 

43 

5.81 

61 

4;io 

79 

3!l7 

97 

2.'58 

8 

31.25 

26 

9.62 

44 

5.68 

62 

4.03 

80 

3.12 

98 

2.55 

9 

27.78 

27 

9.26 

45 

5.56 

63 

3.97 

81 

3.09 

99 

2.52 

10 

25. 

28 

8.93 

46 

5.43 

64 

3.91 

82 

3.05 

100 

2.50 

11 

22.73 

29 

8.62 

47 

5.32 

65 

3.85 

83 

3.01 

105 

2.38 

12 

20.83 

30 

8.33 

48 

5.21 

66 

3.79 

84 

2.98 

110 

2.27 

13 

19.23 

31 

8.06 

49 

5.10 

67 

3.73 

85 

2.94 

115 

2.17 

14 

17.86 

32 

7.81 

50 

5. 

68 

3.68 

86 

2.91 

120 

2.08 

15 

16.67 

33 

7.58 

51 

4.90 

69 

3.62 

87 

2.87 

125 

2. 

16 

15.62 

34 

7.35 

52 

4.81 

70 

3.57 

88 

2.84 

150 

1.67 

17 

14.71 

35 

7.14 

53 

4.72 

71 

3.52 

89 

2.81 

175 

1.43 

18 

13.89 

36 

6.94 

54 

4.63 

72 

3.47 

90 

2.78 

200 

1.25 

Cotton. 

\\  yards  =1  thread  or  round  of  the  cotton  reel. 
120      "     =80     "     =1  skein,  ley  or  lea. 
840      "    =560  =7  8keins=l  hank. 

The  number  of  hanks  in  one  pound,  is  the  number  of  cotton  yarn. 

The  number  of  yards  of  cotton  yarn  that  weigh  8.33  grains,  is  the 
number  of  the  yarn. 

The  numbers  by  which  cotton  sewing  threads  are  sold  represent  three 
threads  of  the  number  twisted  together,  that  is,  No.  60  standard  thread  has 
three  strands  of  No.  60  yarn  in  it.  In  a  six-cord  thread  each  of  the  three 
strands  is  made  up  of  two  threads  twisted  together.  Six  threads  of  No. 
120  make  six-cord  No.  60. 

The  French  system  of  numbering  is  based  on  the  Metric  system.  The 
metre=39.37  inches,  and  is  the  standard  of  length.  The  kilogram  (2.2047 
pounds)  is  the  standard  weight  in  numbering  yarn,  and  the  number  of 
thousand  metres  in  a  kilogram  is  the  number  of  the  yarn.  No.  28  yarn 
would  be  No.  47.42  in  France. 

By  the  various  standards,  No.  1  yarn  has  the  following  numbers  of 
yards  in  one  pound  : 

Cotton  and  spun  silk   840 

Linen   300 

Woollen    1,600 

Worsted    560 

The  following  tables  have  been  carefully  computed,  and 
are,  we  believe,  correct. 

The  tables  for  numbering  cotton  yarn  by  the  weight  of 
one  skein  are  also  printed  separately  for  the  use  of  spinners, 
and  we  will  mail  a  copy  to  any  overseer  on  request. 


118  NUMBERING  YARN 


Comparative  Numbers  of  Yarn  of  different  materials  of  the  same 
weight  per  yard. 


Woollen. 

Worst. 

Linsn. 

KjOZ. 

Woollen. 

w  orst. 

Linen. 

Silk. 

o 

'Si 

3  of 
rds. 

1 

Is  OQ 
O 

"o  u 

3^ 

e«  O 

M  Si 

°° 

Rui 

to 

CO 

o 

o 

P  >» 

Rui 

1  fiOO 

p 

CO 

>H  P 

1 

.525 

1.5 

2.8 

52.5 

71 

37.275 

106.5 

198.8 

3727.5 

2 

1.05 

3. 

5.6 

105. 

72 

37^8 

108. 

201.6 

3780. 

3 

1.575 

4.5 

8.4 

157.5 

73 

38.325 

109.5 

204.4 

3832.5 

4 

2.1 

6. 

11.2 

210. 

74 

38185 

111. 

207.2 

3885. 

5 

2.625 

7.5 

14. 

262.5 

75 

39^375 

112.5 

210. 

3937.5 

6 

3.15 

9. 

16.8 

315. 

76 

39.9 

114. 

212.8 

3990. 

7 

3.675 

10.5 

19.6 

367.5 

77 

4o!425 

115.5 

215.6 

4042.5 

8 

4.2 

12. 

22.4 

420. 

78 

4o!95 

117. 

218.4 

4095. 

9 

4.725 

13.5 

25.2 

472.5 

79 

4:1  Alb 

118.5 

221.2 

4147.5 

10 

5.25 

15. 

28. 

525. 

80 

42! 

120. 

224. 

4200. 

11 

5.775 

16.5 

30.8 

577.5 

81 

42^525 

121.5 

226.8 

4252.5 

12 

6.3 

18. 

33.6 

630. 

82 

43.05 

123. 

229.6 

4305. 

13 

6.825 

19.5 

36.4 

682.5 

83 

43.575 

124.5 

232.4 

4357.5 

14 

7.35 

21. 

39.2 

735. 

84 

44^1 

126. 

235.2 

4410. 

15 

7.875 

22.5 

42. 

787.6 

85 

44.625 

127.5 

238. 

4462.5 

16 

8.4 

24. 

44.8 

840. 

86 

45.15 

129. 

240.8 

4515. 

17 

8.925 

25.5 

47.6 

892.5 

87 

45.675 

130.5 

243.6 

4567.5 

18 

9.45 

27. 

50.4 

945. 

88 

46.2 

132. 

246.4 

4620. 

19 

9.975 

28.5 

53.2 

997.5 

89 

46.725 

133.5 

249.2 

4672.5 

20 

10.5 

30. 

56. 

1050. 

90 

47.25 

135. 

252. 

4725. 

21 

11.025 

31.5 

58.8 

1102.5 

91 

47.775 

136.5 

254.8 

4777.5 

22 

11.55 

33. 

61.6 

1155. 

92 

48.3 

138. 

257.6 

4830. 

23 

12.075 

34.5 

64.4 

1207.5 

93 

48.825 

139.5 

260.4 

4882.5 

24 

12.6 

36. 

67.2 

1260. 

94 

49.35 

141. 

263.2 

4935. 

25 

13.125 

37.5 

70. 

1312.5 

95 

49.875 

142.5 

266. 

4987.5 

26 

13.65 

39. 

72.8 

1365. 

96 

50^4 

144. 

268.8 

5040. 

27 

14.175 

40.5 

75.6 

1417.5 

97 

5o!925 

145.5 

271.6 

5092.5 

28 

14.7 

42. 

78.4 

1470. 

98 

51.45 

147. 

274.4 

5145. 

29 

15.225 

43.5 

81.2 

1522.5 

99 

51.975 

148.5 

277.2 

5197.5 

30 

15.75 

45. 

84. 

1575. 

100 

52.5 

150. 

280. 

5250. 

31 

16.275 

46.5 

86.8 

1627.5 

101 

53.025 

151.5 

282.8 

5302.5 

32 

16.8 

48. 

89.6 

1680. 

102 

53.55 

153. 

285.6 

5355. 

33 

17.325 

49.5 

92.4 

1732.5 

103 

54.075 

154.5 

288.4 

5407.5 

34 

17.85 

51. 

95.2 

1785. 

104 

54.6 

156. 

291.2 

5460. 

35 

18.375 

52.5 

98. 

1837.5 

105 

55.125 

157.5 

294. 

5512.5 

36 

18.9 

54. 

100.8 

1890. 

106 

55.65 

159. 

296.8 

5565. 

37 

19.425 

55.5 

103.6 

1942.5 

107 

56.175 

160.5 

299.6 

5617.5 

38 

19.95 

57. 

106.4 

1995. 

108 

56.7 

162. 

302.4 

5670. 

39 

20.475 

58.5 

109.2 

2047.5 

109 

57.225 

163.5 

305.2 

5722.5 

40 

21. 

60. 

112. 

2100. 

110 

57.75 

165. 

308. 

5775. 

41 

21.525 

61.5 

114.8 

2152.5 

111 

58.275 

166.5 

310.8 

5827.5 

42 

22.05 

63. 

117.6 

2205. 

112 

58.8 

168. 

313.6 

5880. 

43 

22.575 

64.5 

120.4 

2257.5 

113 

59.325 

169.5 

316.4 

5932.5 

44 

23.1 

66. 

123.2 

2310. 

114 

59.85 

171. 

319.2 

5985. 

45 

23.625 

67.5 

126. 

2362.5 

115 

60.375 

173.5 

322. 

6037.5 

46 

24.15 

69. 

128.8 

2415. 

116 

60.9 

174. 

324.8 

6090. 

47 

24.675 

70.5 

131.6 

2467.5 

117 

61.425 

175.5 

327.6 

6142.5 

48 

25.2 

72. 

134.4 

2520. 

118 

6l!95 

177. 

330.4 

6195. 

49 

25.725 

73.5 

137.2 

2572.5 

119 

62.475 

178.5 

333.2 

6247.5 

50 

26.25 

75. 

140. 

2625. 

120 

63. 

180. 

336. 

6300. 

51 

26.775 

76.5 

142.8 

2677.5 

121 

631525 

181.5 

338.8 

6352.5 

52 

27.3 

78. 

145.6 

2730. 

122 

64.05 

183. 

341.6 

6405. 

53 

27.825 

79.5 

148.4 

2782.5 

123 

641575 

184.5 

344.4 

6457.5 

54 

28.35 

81. 

151.2 

2835. 

124 

65.1 

186. 

347.2 

6510. 

55 

28!875 

82.5 

154. 

2887.5 

125 

65!625 

187.5 

350. 

6562.5 

56 

29.4 

84. 

156.8 

2940. 

126 

66.15 

189. 

352.8 

6615. 

57 

29.925 

85.5 

159.6 

2992.5 

127 

66.675 

190.5 

355.6 

6667.5 

58 

30.45 

87. 

162.4 

3045. 

128 

67.2 

192. 

358.4 

6720. 

59 

30.975 

88.5 

165.2 

3097.5 

129 

67.725 

193.5 

361.2 

6772.5 

60 

31.5 

90. 

168. 

3150. 

130 

68.25 

195. 

364. 

6825. 

61 

32.025 

91.5 

170.8 

3202.5 

131 

68.775 

196.5 

366.8 

6877.5 

62 

32.55 

93. 

173.6 

3255. 

132 

69.3 

198. 

369.6 

6930. 

63 

33.075 

94.5 

176.4 

3307.5 

133 

69.825 

199.5 

372.4 

6982.5 

64 

33.6 

96. 

179.2 

3360. 

134 

70.35 

201. 

375.2 

7035. 

65 

34.125 

97.5 

182. 

3412.5 

135 

70.875 

202.5 

378. 

7087.5 

66 

34.65 

99. 

184.8 

3465. 

136 

71.4 

204. 

380.8 

7140. 

67 

35.175 

100.5 

187.6 

3517.5 

137 

71.925 

205.5 

383.6 

7192.5 

68 

35.7 

102. 

190.4 

3570. 

138 

72.45 

207. 

386.4 

7245. 

69 

36.225 

103.5 

193.2 

3622.5 

139 

72.975 

208.5 

389.2 

7297.5 

70 

36.75 

105. 

196. 

3675. 

140 

73.5 

210. 

392 

7350. 

NUMBERING  YARN  119 


Table  for  numbering  Cotton  Yarn  by  the  weight  in  grains  of 
120  yards  or  I  skein. 


weigh 
grains. 

Number 

of 
Yarn. 

liiuycis. 
weigh 
gr&ins. 

£s  um  Der 

OI 

Yarn. 

weigh 
grains. 

riiimDer 
of 
Yarn. 

120yds 
weigh 
grains. 

w  umoer 

of 
Yarn 

120yd3 
weigh 
grains. 

umoer 

of 
Yarn. 

1. 

1000. 

14. 

71.43 

21. 

47.62 

28. 

35.71 

35. 

28.57 

2. 

500. 

.1 

70.92 

.1 

47.39 

.1 

35.59 

.1 

28.49 

3. 

333.3 

.2 

70.42 

.2 

47.17 

.2 

35.46 

.2 

28.41 

4. 

250.0 

.3 

69.93 

.3 

46.95 

.3 

35.34 

.3 

28.33 

5. 

200.0 

.4 

69.44 

,4 

46.73 

.4 

35.21 

.4 

28.25 

5.5 

181.8 

,5 

68.97 

.5 

46.51 

.5 

35.09 

.5 

28.17 

6. 

166.7 

.6 

68.49 

.6 

46.30 

.6 

34.97 

.6 

28.09 

6.5 

153.8 

.7 

68.03 

.7 

46.08 

.7 

34.84 

.7 

28.01 

7. 

142.9 

.8 

67.57 

.8 

45.87 

.8 

34.72 

.8 

27.93 

7.5 

133.3 

.9 

67.11 

.9 

45.66 

.9 

34.60 

.9 

27.86 

8. 

125.0 

15. 

66.67 

22. 

45.45 

29. 

34.48 

36. 

27.78 

.1 

123.5 

.1 

66.23 

.1 

45.25 

.1 

34.36 

.1 

27.70 

.2 

122.0 

.2 

65.79 

.2 

45.05 

.2 

34.25 

.2 

27.62 

.3 

120.5 

.3 

65.36 

.3 

44.84 

.3 

34.13 

.3 

27.55 

.4 

119.0 

.4 

64.94 

.4 

44.64 

.4 

34.01 

.4 

27.47 

.5 

117.6 

.5 

64.52 

.5 

44.44 

.5 

33.90 

.5 

27.40 

.6 

116.3 

.6 

64.10 

.6 

44.25 

.6 

33.78 

.6 

27.32 

.7 

114.9 

.7 

63.69 

.7 

44.05 

.7 

33.67 

.7 

27.25 

.8 

113.6 

.8 

63.29 

.8 

43.86 

.8 

33.56 

J8 

27.17 

.9 

112.4 

.9 

62.89 

.9 

43.67 

.9 

33.44 

.9 

27.10 

9. 

111.1 

16. 

62.50 

23. 

43.48 

30. 

33.33 

37. 

27.03 

.1 

109.9 

.1 

62.11 

.1 

43.29 

.1 

33.22 

.1 

26.95 

.2 

108.7 

•2 

61.73 

.2 

43.10 

.2 

33.11 

.2 

26.88 

.3 

107.5 

.3 

61.35 

.3 

42.92 

.3 

33.00 

.3 

26.81 

.4 

106.4 

.4 

60.98 

.4 

42.74 

.4 

32.89 

.4 

26.74 

.5 

105.3 

•5 

60.61 

.5 

42.55 

.5 

32.79 

.5 

26.67 

.6 

104.2 

.6 

60.24 

•6 

42.37 

.6 

32.68 

.6 

26.60 

.7 

103.1 

.7 

59.88 

.7 

42.19 

.7 

32.57 

.7 

26.53 

.8 

102.0 

.8 

59.52 

.8 

42.02 

.8 

32*47 

.8 

26.46 

.9 

101.0 

.9 

59.17 

.9 

41.84 

.9 

32.36 

.9 

26.39 

10. 

100.0 

17. 

58.82 

24. 

41.67 

31. 

32.26 

38. 

26.32 

.1 

99.01 

•1 

58.48 

.1 

41.49 

.1 

32.16 

.1 

26.25 

.2 

98.04 

.2 

58.14 

.2 

41.32 

.2 

32.05 

.2 

26.18 

.3 

97.09 

.3 

57.80 

.3 

41.15 

.3 

31.95 

.3 

26.11 

.4 

96.15 

.4 

57.47 

.4 

40.98 

.4 

31.85 

.4 

26.04 

.5 

95.24 

.5 

57.14 

.5 

40.82 

.5 

31.75 

.5 

25.97 

.6 

94.34 

.6 

56.82 

.6 

40.65 

.6 

31.65 

.6 

25.91 

.7 

93.46 

.7 

56.50 

.7 

40.49 

.7 

31.55 

.7 

25.84 

.8 

92.59 

.8 

56.18 

.8 

40.32 

.8 

31.45 

.8 

25.77 

.9 

91.74 

.9 

55.87 

.9 

40.16 

.9 

31.35 

.9 

25.71 

11. 

90.91 

18. 

55.56 

25. 

40.00 

32. 

31.25 

39. 

25.64 

.1 

90.09 

.1 

55.25 

.1 

39.84 

.1 

31.15 

.1 

25.58 

.2 

89.29 

.2 

54.95 

.2 

39.68 

.2 

31.06 

.2 

25.51 

.3 

88.50 

.3 

54.64 

.3 

39.53 

.3 

30.96 

.3 

25.45 

.4 

87.72 

.4 

54.35 

.4 

39.37 

.4 

30.86 

.4 

25.38 

.5 

86.96 

.5 

54.05 

.5 

39.22 

.5 

30.77 

.5 

25.32 

.6 

86.21 

.6 

53.76 

.6 

39.06 

.6 

30.67 

.6 

25.25 

.7 

85.47 

.7 

53.48 

.7 

38.91 

.7 

30.58 

.7 

25.19 

.8 

84.75 

.8 

53.19 

.8 

38.76 

.8 

30.49 

.8 

25.13 

.9 

84.03 

.9 

52.91 

.9 

38.61 

.9 

30.40 

.9 

25.06 

12. 

83.33 

19. 

52.63 

26. 

38.46 

33. 

30.30 

40. 

25.00 

.1 

82.64 

.1 

52.36 

.1 

38.31 

.1 

30.21 

.1 

24.94 

.2 

81.97 

.2 

52.08 

.2 

38.17 

.2 

30.12 

.2 

24.88 

.3 

81.30 

.3 

51.81 

.3 

38.02 

.3 

30.03 

.3 

24.81 

.4 

80.65 

.4 

51.55 

.4 

37.88 

.4 

29.94 

.4 

24.75 

.5 

80.00 

.5 

51.28 

.5 

37.74 

.5 

29.85 

.5 

24.69 

.6 

79.37 

.6 

51.02 

.6 

37.59 

.6 

29.76 

.6 

24.63 

.7 

78.74 

.7 

50.76 

.7 

37.45 

.7 

29.67 

.7 

24.57 

.8 

78.12 

.8 

50.51 

.8 

37.31 

.8 

29.59 

.8 

24.51 

.9 

77.52 

.9 

50.25 

.9 

37.17 

.9 

29.50 

.9 

24.45 

13. 

76.92 

50.00 

27. 

37.04 

34. 

29.41 

41. 

24.39 

.1 

76.34 

.1 

49.75 

.1 

36.90 

.1 

29.33 

.1 

24.33 

.2 

75.76 

.2 

49.50 

.2 

36.77 

.2 

29.24 

.2 

24.27 

.3 

75.19 

.3 

49.26 

.3 

36.63 

.3 

29.15 

.3 

24.21 

.4 

74.63 

.4 

49.02 

.4 

36.50 

.4 

29.07 

.4 

24.15 

.5 

74.07 

.5 

48.78 

.5 

36.36 

.5 

28.99 

.5 

24.10 

.6 

73.53 

.6 

48.54 

.6 

36.23 

.6 

28.90 

.6 

24.04 

.7 

72.99 

.7 

48.31 

.7 

36.10 

.7 

28.82 

.7 

23.98 

.8 

72.46 

.8 

48.08 

.8 

35.97 

.8 

28.74 

.8 

23.92 

.9 

71.94 

.9 

47.85 

.9 

35.84 

.9 

28.65 

.9 

23.87 

120  NUMBERING  YARN. 

Table  for  numbering  Cotton  Yarn  by  the  weight  in  grains  of 


120  yards  or  I  skein, 


120yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Number 
of 
Yarn. 

120yds. 
weigh 
graius. 

1 

'dumber 

of 
Yarn. 

120yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Number 
of 
Yarn. 

120yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Number 
of 
Yarn. 

120yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Number 
of 
Yarn. 

42. 



23.81 

49. 

20.41 

56. 

17.86 

63. 

15.87 

70. 

14.29 

.1 

23.75 

.1 

20.37 

.1 

17.83 

.1 

15.85 

.1 

14.27 

.2 

23.70 

.2 

20.33 

.2 

17.79 

.2 

15.83 

.2 

14.25 

.3 

23.64 

.3 

20.28 

.3 

17.76 

.3 

15.80 

.3 

14.22 

.4 

23.58 

.4 

20.24 

.4 

17.73 

.4 

15.77 

.4 

14.20 

.5 

23.53 

.5 

20.20 

.5 

17.70 

.5 

15.75 

.5 

14.18 

.6 

23.47 

.6 

20.16 

.6 

17.67 

.6 

15.72 

.6 

14.16 

.7 

23.42 

.7 

20.12 

.7 

17.64 

.7 

15.70 

.7 

14.14 

.8 

23.36 

.8 

20.08 

.8 

17.61 

.8 

15.67 

.8 

14.12 

.9 

23.31 

.9 

20.04 

.9 

17.57 

.9 

15.65 

.9 

14.10 

43. 

23.26 

50. 

20.00 

57. 

17.54 

64. 

15.62 

71. 

14.08 

.1 

23.20 

.1 

19.96 

.1 

17.51 

.1 

15.60 

.1 

14.06 

.2 

23.15 

.2 

19.92 

.2 

17.48 

.2 

15.58 

.2 

14.04 

.3 

23.09 

.3 

19.88 

.3 

17.45 

.3 

15.55 

.3 

14.03 

.4 

23.04 

.4 

19.84 

.4 

17.42 

.4 

15.53 

.4 

14.01 

.5 

22.99 

.5 

19.80 

.5 

17.39 

.5 

15.50 

.5 

13.99 

.6 

22.94 

.6 

19.76 

.6 

17.36 

.6 

15.48 

.6 

13.97 

.7 

22.88 

.7 

19.72 

.7 

17.33 

.7 

15.46 

.7 

13.95 

.8 

22.83 

.8 

19.69 

.8 

17.30 

.8 

15.43 

.8 

13.93 

.9 

22.78 

.9 

19.65 

.9 

17.27 

.9 

15.41 

.9 

13.91 

44. 

22.73 

61. 

19.61 

58. 

17.24 

65. 

15.38 

72. 

13.89 

.1 

22.68 

.1 

19.57 

.1 

17.21 

.1 

15.36 

.1 

13.87 

.2 

22.62 

.2 

19.53 

.2 

17.18 

.2 

15.34 

.2 

13.85 

.3 

22.57 

.3 

19.49 

.3 

±7.15 

.3 

15.31 

.3 

13.83 

.4 

22.52 

.4 

19.46 

.4 

17.12 

.4 

15.29 

.4 

13.81 

.5 

22.47 

.5 

19.42 

.5 

17.09 

.5 

15.27 

.5 

13.79 

.6 

22.42 

.6 

19.38 

.6 

17.06 

.6 

15.24 

.6 

13.77 

.7 

22.37 

.7 

19.34 

.7 

17.04 

.7 

15.22 

.7 

13.76 

.8 

22.32 

.8 

19.31 

.8 

17.01 

.8 

15.20 

.8 

13.74 

.9 

22.27 

.9 

19.27 

.9 

16.98 

.9 

15.17 

.9 

13.72 

45. 

22.22 

52. 

19.23 

59. 

16.95 

66. 

15.15 

73. 

13.70 

.1 

22.17 

.1 

19.19 

.1 

16.92 

.1 

15.13 

.1 

13.68 

.2 

22.12 

.2 

19.16 

.2 

16.89 

.2 

15.11 

.2 

13.66 

.3 

22.08 

.3 

19.12 

.3 

16.86 

.3 

15.08 

.3 

13.64 

.4 

22.03 

.4 

19.08 

.4 

16.84 

.4 

15.06 

.4 

13.62 

.5 

21.98 

.5 

19.05 

-5 

16.81 

.5 

15.04 

.5 

13.61 

.6 

21.93 

.6 

19.01 

.6 

16.78 

.6 

15.02 

.6 

13.59 

.7 

21.88 

.7 

18.98 

.7 

16.75 

.7 

14.99 

.7 

13.57 

.8 

21.83 

.8 

18.94 

.8 

16.72 

.8 

14.97 

.8 

13.55 

.9 

21.79 

.9 

18.90 

.9 

16.69 

.9 

14.95 

.9 

13.53 

46. 

21.74 

63. 

18.87 

60. 

16.67 

67. 

14.93 

74. 

13.51 

.1 

21.69 

.1 

18.83 

.1 

16.64 

.1 

14.90 

.1 

13.50 

.2 

21.65 

.2 

18.80 

.2 

16.61 

.2 

14.88 

.2 

13.48 

.3 

21.60 

.3 

18.76 

.3 

16.58 

.3 

14.86 

.3 

13.46 

.4 

21.65 

.4 

18.73 

.4 

16.56 

.4 

14.84 

.4 

13.44 

.5 

21.51 

.5 

18.69 

.5 

16.53 

.5 

14.81 

.5 

13.42 

.6 

21.46 

.6 

18.66 

.6 

16.50 

.6 

14.79 

.6 

13.40 

.7 

21.41 

.7 

18.62 

.7 

16.47 

.7 

14.77 

.7 

13.39 

.8 

21.37 

.8 

18.59 

.8 

16.45 

.8 

14.75 

.8 

13.37 

.9 

21.32 

.9 

18.55 

.9 

16.42 

.9 

14.73 

.9 

13.35 

47. 

21.28 

64. 

18.52 

61. 

16.39 

68. 

14.71 

75. 

13.33 

.1 

21.23 

.1 

18.48 

.1 

16.37 

.1 

14.68 

.1 

13.32 

.2 

21.19 

.2 

18.45 

.2 

16.34 

.2 

14.66 

.2 

13.30 

.3 

21.14 

.3 

18.42 

.3 

16,31 

.3 

14.64 

.3 

13.28 

.4 

21.10 

.4 

18.38 

.4 

16.29 

.4 

14.62 

.4 

13.26 

.5 

21.05 

.5 

18.35 

.5 

16.26 

.5 

14.60 

.5 

13.25 

.6 

21.01 

.6 

18.32 

.6 

16.23 

.6 

14.58 

.6 

13.23 

.7 

20.96 

.7 

18.28 

.7 

16.21 

.7 

14.56 

.7 

13.21 

.8 

20.92 

.8 

18.25 

.8 

16.19 

.8 

14.53 

.8 

13.19 

.9 

20.88 

.9 

18.21 

.9 

16.16 

.9 

14.51 

.9 

13.18 

48. 

20.83 

55. 

18.18 

62. 

16.13 

69. 

14.49 

76. 

13.16 

.1 

20.79 

.1 

18.15 

.1 

16.10 

.1 

14.47 

.1 

13.14 

.2 

20.75 

.2 

18.12 

.2 

16.08 

.2 

14.45 

.2 

13.12 

.3 

20.70 

.3 

18.08 

.3 

16.05 

.3 

14.43 

.3 

13.11 

.4 

20.66 

.4 

18.05 

.4 

16.03 

.4 

14.41 

.4 

13.09 

.5 

20.62 

.5 

18.02 

.5 

16.00 

.5 

14.39 

.5 

13.07 

.6 

20.57 

.6 

17.99 

.6 

15.97 

.6 

14.37 

c6 

13.05 

.7 

20.53 

.7 

17.95 

.7 

15.95 

.7 

14.35 

.7 

13.04 

.8 

20.49 

.8 

17.92 

.8 

15.92 

.8 

14.33 

13.02 

.9 

20.45 

.9 

17.89 

.9 

15.90 

.9 

14.31 

-\ 

13.00 

NUMBERING  YARN.  121 


Table  for  numbering  Cotton  Yarn  by  the  weight  in  grains  of 
120  yards  or  I  skein. 


120ya3. 
weigli 
grains. 

Number 
of 
Yarn. 

120yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Number 
of 
Yarn. 

120yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Number 
of 
Yarn. 

120yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Number 
of 
Yarn. 

120yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Number 
of 
Yarn. 

77. 

12.99 

84. 

11.90 

91. 

10.99 

98. 

10.20 

105. 

9.52 

.1 

12.97 

.1 

11.89 

.1 

10.98 

.1 

10.19 

.1 

9.51 

.2 

12.95 

.2 

11,88 

.2 

10.96 

.2 

10.18 

.2 

9.51 

.3 

12.94 

.3 

11.86 

.3 

10.95 

.3 

10.17 

.3 

9.50 

A 

12.92 

.4 

11.85 

.4 

10.94 

.4 

10.16 

.4 

9.49 

.5 

12.90 

.5 

11.83 

.5 

10.93 

.5 

10.15 

.5 

9.48 

.6 

12.89 

.6 

11.82 

.6 

10.92 

.6 

10.14 

.6 

9.47 

.7 

12.87 

.7 

11.81 

.7 

10.91 

.7 

10.13 

.7 

9.46 

.8 

12.85 

.8 

11.79 

.8 

10.89 

.8 

10.12 

.8 

9.45 

.9 

12.84 

.9 

11.78 

.9 

10.88 

.9 

10.11 

.9 

9.44 

78. 

12.82 

85. 

11.76 

93. 

10.87 

99. 

10.10 

106. 

9.43 

.1 

12.80 

.1 

11.75 

.1 

10.86 

.1 

10.09 

.1 

9.43 

.2 

12.79 

.2 

11.74 

.2 

10.85 

.2 

10.08 

.2 

9.42 

.3 

12.77 

.3 

11.72 

.3 

10.83 

.3 

10.07 

.3 

9.41 

.4 

12.76 

.4 

11.71 

.4 

10.82 

.4 

10.06 

.4 

9.40 

.5 

12.74 

.5 

11.70 

.5 

10.81 

.5 

10.05 

.5 

9.39 

.6 

12.72 

.6 

11.68 

.6 

10.80 

.6 

10.04 

.6 

9.38 

.7 

12.71 

.7 

11.67 

.7 

10.79 

.7 

10.03 

.7 

9.37 

.8 

12.69 

.8 

11.66 

.8 

10.78 

.8 

10.02 

.8 

9.36 

.9 

12.67 

.9 

11.64 

.9 

10.76 

.9 

10.01 

.9 

9.35 

79. 

12.66 

86. 

11.63 

93. 

10.75 

100. 

10.00 

107. 

9.35 

.1 

12.64 

.1 

11.61 

.1 

10.74 

.1 

9.99 

.1 

9.34 

.2 

12.63 

.2 

11.60 

.2 

10.73 

.2 

9.98 

.2 

9.33 

.3 

12.61 

.3 

11.59 

.3 

10.72 

.3 

9.97 

.3 

9.32 

.4 

12.59 

.4 

11.57 

.4 

10.71 

.4 

9.96 

.4 

9.31 

.5 

12.58 

.5 

11.56 

.5 

10.70 

.5 

9.95 

.5 

9.30 

.6 

12.56 

.6 

11.55 

.6 

10.68 

.6 

9.94 

.6 

9.29 

.7 

12.55 

.7 

11.53 

.7 

10.67 

.7 

9.93 

.7 

9.29 

.8 

12.53 

.8 

11.52 

.8 

10.66 

.8 

9.92 

.8 

9.2S 

.9' 

12.52 

.9 

11.51 

.9 

10.65 

.9 

9.91 

.9 

9.27 

80. 

12.50 

87. 

11.49 

94. 

10.64 

101. 

9.90 

108. 

9.26 

.1 

12.48 

.1 

11.48 

.1 

10.63 

.1 

9.89 

.1 

9.25 

.2 

12.47 

.2 

11.47 

.2 

10.62 

.2 

9.88 

.2 

9.24 

.3 

12.45 

.3 

11.45 

.3 

10.60 

.3 

9.87 

.3 

9.23 

.4 

12.44 

.4 

11.44 

.4 

10.59 

.4 

9.86 

.4 

9.23 

.5 

12.42 

.5 

11.43 

.5 

10.58 

.5 

9.85 

.5 

9.22 

.6 

12.41 

.6 

11.42 

.6 

10.57 

.6 

9.84 

.6 

9.21 

.7 

12.39 

.7 

11.40 

.7 

10.56 

.7 

9.83 

.7 

9.20 

.8 

12.38 

.8 

11.39 

.8 

10.55 

.8 

9.82 

.8 

9.19 

.9 

12.36 

.9 

11.38 

.9 

10.54 

.9 

9.81 

.9 

9.18 

81. 

12.35 

88. 

11.36 

95. 

10.53 

102. 

9.80 

109. 

9.17 

.1 

12.33 

.1 

11.35 

.1 

10.52 

.1 

9.79 

.2 

9.16 

.2 

12.32 

.2 

11.34 

.2 

10.50 

.2 

9.78 

.4 

9.14 

.3 

12.30 

.3 

11.33 

.3 

10.49 

.3 

9.78 

.6 

9.12 

.4 

12.29 

.4 

11.31 

.4 

10.48 

.4 

9.77 

.8 

9.11 

.5 

12.27 

.5 

11.30 

.5 

10.47 

.5 

9.76 

110. 

9.09 

.6 

12.25 

.6 

11.29 

.6 

10.46 

.6 

9.75 

.2 

9.07 

.7 

12.24 

.7 

11.27 

.7 

10.45 

.7 

9.74 

.4 

9.06 

.8 

12.22 

.8 

11.26 

.8 

10.44 

.8 

9.73 

.6 

9.04 

.9 

12.21 

.9 

11.25 

.9 

10.43 

.9 

9.72 

.8 

9.03 

83. 

12.20 

89. 

11.24 

96. 

10.42 

103. 

9.71 

111. 

9.01 

.1 

12.18 

.1 

11.22 

.1 

10.41 

.1 

9.70 

.2 

8.99 

.2 

12.17 

.2 

11.21 

.2 

10.40 

.2 

9.69 

.4 

8.98 

.3 

12.15 

.3 

11.20 

.3 

10.38 

.3 

9.68 

.6 

8.96 

.4 

12.14 

.4 

11.19 

.4 

10.37 

.4 

9.67 

.8 

8.94 

.5 

12.12 

.5 

11.17 

.5 

10.36 

.5 

9.66 

112. 

8.93 

.6 

12.11 

.6 

11.16 

.6 

10.35 

.6 

9.65 

.2 

8.91 

.7 

12.09 

.7 

11.15 

.7 

10.34 

.7 

9.64 

.4 

8.90 

.8 

12.08 

.8 

11.14 

.8 

10.33 

.8 

9.63 

.6 

8.88 

.9 

12.06 

.9 

11.12 

.9 

10.32 

.9 

9.62 

.8 

8.87 

83. 

12.05 

90. 

11.11 

97. 

10.31 

104. 

9.62 

113. 

8.85 

.1 

12.03 

.1 

11.10 

.1 

10.30 

.1 

9.61 

.2 

8.83 

.2 

12.02 

.2 

11.09 

.2 

10.29 

.2 

9.60 

.4 

8.82 

3 

12.00 

.3 

11.07 

.3 

10.28 

.3 

9.59 

.6 

8.80 

.4 

11.99 

.4 

11.06 

.4 

10.27 

.4 

9.58 

.8 

8.79 

.5 

11.98 

.5 

11.05 

.5 

10.26 

.5 

9.57 

114. 

8.77 

.6 

11.96 

.6 

11.04 

.6 

10.25 

.6 

9.56 

.2 

8.76 

.7 

11.95 

.7 

11.03 

.7 

10.24 

.7 

9.55 

.4 

8.74 

.8 

11.93 

.8 

11.01 

.8 

10.22 

.8 

9.54 

.6 

8.73 

.9 

11.92 

.9 

11.00 

.9 

10.21 

.9 

9.53 

.8 

8.71 

122  NUMBERING  YARN, 

Table  for  numbering  Cotton  Yarn  by  the  weight  in  grains  of 


120  yards  or  I  skein. 


I20yds. 
weigh 
grains. 

Number 

of 
Yam. 

120y(i8. 
weigh 
grains. 



Number 

of 
Yarn. 

120y(is. 
weigh 
grains. 

Number 

of 
Yarn. 

120yds.  [Number 
weigh  1  of 
grains.  Yarn 

120yd8. 
weigh 
grains. 

Numbet 

of 
Yarn. 

115. 

8.70 

140. 

7.14 

180. 

5.56 

350. 

4.00 

400. 

2.50 

.2 

8.68 

.5 

7.12 

181. 

5.52 

252. 

3.97 

405. 

2.47 

.4 

8.67 

141. 

7.09 

182. 

5.49 

254. 

3.94 

410. 

2.44 

.6 

8.65 

.5 

7.07 

183. 

5.46 

256. 

3.91 

415. 

2.41 

.8 

8.64 

142. 

7.04 

184. 

5.43 

258. 

3.88 

420. 

2.38 

116. 

8.62 

.5 

7.02 

185. 

5.41 

260. 

3.85 

425. 

2.35 

.2 

8.61 

143.^ 

6.99 

186. 

5.38 

262. 

3.82 

430. 

2.33 

.4 

8.59 

.5 

6.97 

187. 

5.35 

264. 

3.79 

435. 

2.30 

.6 

8.58 

144.^ 

6.94 

188. 

5.32 

266. 

3.76 

440. 

2.27 

.8 

8.56 

.5 

6.92 

189. 

5.29 

268. 

3.73 

445. 

2.25 

117. 

8.55 

145. 

6.90 

190. 

5.26 

370. 

3.70 

450. 

2.22 

.2 

8.53 

.5 

6.87 

191. 

5.24 

272. 

3.68 

455. 

2.20 

.4 

8.52 

146. 

6.85 

192. 

5.21 

274. 

3.65 

460. 

2.17 

.6 

8.50 

.5 

6.83 

193. 

5.18 

276. 

3.62 

465. 

2.15 

.8 

8.49 

147. 

6.80 

194. 

5.15 

278. 

3.60 

470. 

2.13 

118. 

8.47 

.5 

6.78 

195. 

5.13 

280. 

3.57 

475. 

2.11 

.2 

8.46 

148. 

6.76 

196. 

5.10 

282. 

3.55 

480. 

2.08 

.4 

8.45 

.5 

6.73 

197. 

5.08 

284. 

3.52 

485. 

2.06 

.6 

8.43 

149. 

6.71 

198. 

5.05 

286. 

3.50 

490. 

2.04 

.8 

8.42 

.5 

6.69 

199. 

5.03 

288. 

3.47 

495. 

2.02 

119. 

8.40 

150. 

6.67 

200. 

5.00 

390. 

3.45 

600. 

2.00 

.2 

8.39 

.5 

6.64 

201. 

4.98 

292. 

3.42 

505. 

1.98 

.4 

8.38 

151. 

6.62 

202. 

4.95 

294. 

3.40 

510. 

1.96 

.6 

8.36 

.5 

6.60 

203. 

4.93 

296. 

3.38 

515. 

1.94 

.8 

8.35 

152. 

6.58 

204. 

4.90 

298. 

3.36 

520. 

1.92 

120. 

8.33 

.5 

6.56 

205. 

4.88 

300. 

3.33 

525. 

1.90 

.2 

8.32 

153. 

6.54 

206. 

4.85 

302. 

3.31 

530. 

1.89 

.4 

8.31 

.5 

6.51 

207. 

4.83 

304. 

3.29 

535. 

1.87 

.6 

8.29 

154. 

6.49 

208. 

4.81 

306. 

3.27 

540. 

d.85 

.8 

8.28 

.5 

6.47 

209. 

4.78 

308. 

3.25 

545. 

1.83 

191. 

8.26 

155. 

6.45 

310. 

4.76 

310. 

3.23 

560. 

1.82 

.4 

8.24 

.5 

6.43 

211. 

4.74 

312. 

3.21 

555. 

1.80 

.6 

8.22 

156. 

6.41 

212. 

4.72 

314. 

3.18 

560. 

1.79 

.8 

8.21 

.5 

6.39 

213. 

4.69 

316. 

3.17 

565. 

1.77 

122. 

8.20 

157.^ 

6.37 

214. 

4.67 

318. 

3.14 

570. 

1.75 

.5 

8.16 

.5 

6.35 

215. 

4.65 

320. 

3.12 

575. 

1.74 

123. 

8.13 

158.^ 

6.33 

216. 

4.63 

322. 

3.11 

580. 

1.72 

.5 

8.10 

.5 

6.31 

217. 

4.61 

324. 

3.09 

585. 

1.71 

124. 

8.06 

159. 

6.29 

218. 

4.59 

326. 

3.07 

590. 

1.69 

.5 

8.03 

.5 

6.27 

219. 

4.57 

328. 

3.05 

595. 

1.68 

195. 

8.00 

160.^ 

6.25 

330. 

4.55 

330. 

3.03 

600. 

1.67 

.5 

7.97 

.5 

6.23 

221. 

4.52 

332. 

3.01 

610. 

1.64 

126. 

7.94 

161. 

6.21 

222. 

4.50 

334. 

2.99 

620. 

1.61 

.5 

7.91 

.5 

6.19 

223. 

4.48 

336. 

2.98 

630. 

1.59 

127. 

7.87 

162.^ 

6.17 

224. 

4.46 

338. 

2.96 

640. 

1.56 

.5 

7.84 

.5 

6.15 

225. 

4.44 

340. 

2.94 

650. 

1.54 

128. 

7.81 

163.^ 

6.13 

226. 

4.42 

342. 

2.92 

660. 

1.52 

.5 

7.78 

.5 

6.12 

227. 

4.41 

344. 

2.91 

670. 

1.49 

129. 

7.75 

164. 

6.10 

228. 

4.39 

346. 

2.89 

680. 

1.47 

.5 

7.72 

.5 

6.08 

229. 

4.37 

348. 

2.87 

690. 

1.45 

130. 

7.69 

165.^ 

6.06 

330. 

4.35 

350. 

2.86 

700. 

1.43 

.5 

7.66 

.5 

6.04- 

231. 

4.33 

352. 

2.84 

710. 

1.41 

131.^ 

7.63 

166. 

6.02 

232. 

4.31 

354. 

2.82 

720. 

1.39 

.5 

7.60 

.5 

6.01 

233. 

4.29 

356. 

2.81 

730. 

1.37 

132. 

7.58 

167. 

5.99 

234. 

4.27 

358. 

2.79 

740. 

1.35 

.5 

7.55 

.5 

5.97 

235. 

4.26 

360. 

2.78 

750. 

1.33 

133. 

7.52 

168. 

5.95 

236. 

4.24 

362. 

2.76 

760. 

1.32 

.5 

7.49 

.5 

5.93 

237. 

4.22 

364. 

2.75 

770. 

1.30 

134 

7.46 

169. 

5.92 

238. 

4.20 

366. 

2.73 

780. 

1.28 

.5 

7.43 

.5 

5.90 

239. 

4.18 

368. 

2.72 

790. 

1.27 

135. 

7.41 

170. 

5.88 

340. 

4.17 

370. 

2.70 

800. 

1.25 

.5 

7.38 

171. 

5.85 

241. 

4.15 

372. 

2.69 

820. 

1.22 

136.^ 

7.35 

172. 

5.81 

242. 

4.13 

374. 

2.67 

840. 

1.19 

.5 

7.33 

173. 

5.78 

243. 

4.12 

376. 

2.66 

860. 

1.16 

137.^ 

7.30 

174. 

5.75 

244. 

4.10 

378. 

2.65 

880. 

1.14 

.5 

7.27 

175. 

5.71 

245. 

4.08 

380. 

2.63 

900. 

1.11 

138. 

7.25 

176. 

5.68 

246. 

4.07 

382. 

2.62 

925. 

1.08 

.5 

7.22 

177. 

5.65 

247. 

4.05 

385. 

2.60 

950. 

1.05 

139.^ 

7.19 

178. 

5.62 

248. 

4.03 

390. 

2.56 

975. 

1.03 

.5 

7.17 

179. 

5.59 

249. 

4.02 

395. 

2.53 

1000. 

1.00 

T IV I  ST  TABLES. 


123 


TWIST  TABLE, 


Showing  the  square  root  of  the  numbers  or  counts  from  1  to  140  hanks  in  the  pound, 
with  the  twist  per  inch  for  different  kinds  of  yarn. 


Counts 
or 

Numbers. 

Square 
Root. 

Ordinary 
iwist. 

VV  nitman  s 

jjiXtra 
Twist. 

Mule  Warp 
Twist. 

Mule 
£  ujing 
Twist. 

1 

1.0000 

4.75 

4.50 

4.00 

3.75 

3.35 

2 

1.4142 

6.72 

6.36 

5.66 

5.30 

4.60 

3 

1.7321 

8.23 

7.79 

6.93 

6.50 

5.63 

4 

2.0000 

9.50 

9.00 

8.00 

7.50 

6.50 

5 

2.2361 

10.62 

10.06 

8.94 

8.39 

7.27 

6 

2.4495 

11.64 

11.02 

9.80 

9.19 

7.96 

7 

2.6458 

12.57 

11.91 

10.58 

9.92 

8.60 

8 

2.8284 

13.44 

12.73 

11.31 

10.61 

9.19 

9 

3.0000 

14.25 

13.50 

12.00 

11.25 

9.75 

10 

3.1623 

15.02 

14.23 

12.65 

11.86 

10.28 

11 

3.3166 

15.75 

14.92 

13.27 

12.44 

10.78 

12 

3.4641 

16.45 

15.59 

13.86 

12.99 

11.26 

13 

3.6056 

17.13 

16.22 

14.42 

13.52 

11.72 

14 

3.7417 

17.77 

16.84 

14.97 

14.03 

12.16 

15 

3.8730 

18.40 

17.43 

15.49 

14.52 

12.59 

16 

4.0000 

19.00 

18.00 

16.00 

15.00 

13.00 

17 

4.1231 

19.58 

18.55 

16.49 

15.46 

13.40 

18 

4.2426 

20.15 

19.09 

16.97 

15.91 

13.79 

19 

4.3589 

20.70 

19.62 

17.44 

16.35 

14.17 

20 

4.4721 

21.24 

20.12 

17.89 

16.77 

14.53 

21 

4.5826 

21.77 

20.62 

18.33 

17.18 

14.89 

22 

4.6904 

22.28 

21.11 

18.76 

17.59 

15.24 

23 

4.7958 

22.78 

21.58 

19.18 

17.98 

15.59 

24 

4.8990 

23.27 

22.05 

19.60 

18.37 

15.92 

25 

5.0000 

23.75 

22.50 

20.00 

18.75 

16.25 

26 

5.0990 

24.22 

22.95 

20.40 

19.12 

16.57 

27 

5.1962 

24.68 

23.38 

20.78 

19.49 

16.89 

28 

5.2915 

25.13 

23.81 

21.17 

19.84 

17.20 

29 

5.3852 

25.58 

24.23 

21.54 

20.19 

17.50 

30 

5.4772 

26.02 

24.65 

21.91 

20.54 

17.80 

31 

5.5678 

26.45 

25.05 

22.27 

20.88 

18.10 

32 

5.6569 

26.87 

25.46 

22.63 

21.21 

18.38 

33 

5.7446 

27.29 

25.85 

22.98 

21.54 

18.67 

34 

5.8310 

27.70 

26.24 

23.32 

21.87 

18.95 

35 

5.9161 

28.10 

26.62 

23.66 

22.19 

19.23 

36 

6.0000 

28.50 

27.00 

24.00 

22.50 

19.50 

37 

6.0828 

28.89 

27.37 

24.33 

22.81 

19.77 

38 

6.1644 

29.28 

27.74 

24.66 

23.12 

20.03 

39 

6.2450 

29.66 

28.10 

24.98 

23.42 

20.30 

40 

6.3246 

30.04 

28.46 

25.30 

23.72 

20.55 

41 

6.4031 

30.41 

28.81 

25.61 

24.01 

20.81 

42 

6.4807 

30.78 

29.16 

25.92 

24.30 

21.06 

43 

6.5574 

31.15 

29.51 

26.23 

24.59 

21.31 

44 

6.6332 

31.51 

29.85 

26.53 

24.87 

21.56 

45 

6.7082 

31.86 

30.19 

26.83 

25.16 

21.80 

46 

6.7823 

32.22 

30.52 

27.13 

25.43 

22.04 

47 

6.8557 

32.56 

30.85 

27.42 

25.71 

22.28 

48 

6.9282 

32.91 

31.18 

27.71 

25.98 

22.52 

49 

7.0000 

33.25 

31.50 

28.00 

26.25 

22.75 

50 

7.0711 

33.59 

31.82 

28.28 

26.52 

22.98 

51 

7.1414 

33.92 

32.14 

28.57 

26.78 

23.21 

52 

7.2111 

34.25 

32.45 

28.85 

27.04 

23.44 

53 

7.2801 

34.58 

32.76 

29.12 

27.30 

23.66 

54 

7.3485 

34.91 

33.07 

29.39 

27.56 

23.88 

55 

7.4162 

35.23 

33.37 

29.66 

27.81 

24.10 

56 

7.4833 

35.55 

33.67 

29.93 

28.06 

24.32 

57 

7.5498 

35.86 

33.97 

30.20 

28.31 

24.54 

58 

7.6158 

36.17 

34.27 

30.46 

28.56 

24.75 

59 

7.6811 

36.49 

34  57 

30.72 

28.80 

24.96 

60 

7.7460 

36.79 

34186 

30.98 

29.05 

25117 

61 

7.8102 

37.10 

35.15 

31.24 

29.29 

25.38 

62 

7.8740 

37.40 

35.43 

31.50 

29.53 

25.59 

63 

7.9373 

37.70 

35.72 

31.75 

29.76 

25.80 

64 

8.0000 

38.00 

36.00 

32.00 

30.00 

26.00 

65 

8.0623 

38.30 

36.28 

32.25 

30.23 

26.20 

66 

8.1240 

38.59 

36.56 

32.50 

30.47 

26.40 

67 

8.1854 

38.88 

36.83 

32.74 

30.70 

26.60 

68 

8.2462 

39.17 

37.11 

32.98 

30.92 

26.80 

69 

8.3066 

39.46 

37.38 

33.23 

31.15 

27.00 

70 

8.3666 

39.74 

37.65 

33.47 

31.37 

27.19 

124  TWIST  TABLES. 


TWIST  TABLE. 


Mule 
Filling 
Twifit. 

Counts 
or 

Numbers. 

Square 
Root. 

Ordinary 
Warp 
Twist. 

Whitman's 
Warp 
Twist. 

Extra 
Mule  Warp 
Twist. 

Mule  Warp 
Twist. 

71 

8.4261 

40.02 

37.92 

33.70 

31.60 

27.38 

72 

8^4853 

40.31 

38^18 

33*94 

31^82 

27I58 

73 

8^5440 

40.58 

38^45 

34.18 

32.04 

27^77 

74 

8  ] 6023 

40^86 

38^71 

34.41 

32!  26 

27^96 

75 

8^6603 

4l'l4 

38^97 

34*64 

32^48 

28.15 

76 

8.' 7178 

41^41 

39.23 

34^87 

32^69 

28!33 

77 

8.7750 

41*68 

39!  49 

35.10 

32^91 

28^52 

78 

818318 

41I95 

39^74 

35I33 

33!  12 

28^70 

79 

8.8882 

42.22 

4o!oo 

33^33 

28^89 

80 

8.9443 

42.49 

40.25 

35!  78 

33.54 

29.07 

81 

9.0000 

42.75 

40.50 

36.00 

33^75 

29^25 

82 

9.0554 

43.01 

40.75 

36^22 

33*96 

29^43 

83 

9.1104 

43.27 

41.00 

36^44 

34.16 

29.61 

84 

9]  1652 

43^53 

41^24 

36^66 

34.37 

29.79 

85 

9/2195 

43^79 

41^49 

36^88 

34!  57 

29^96 

86 

9^2736 

44!  05 

41.73 

37*09 

34^78 

30!  14 

87 

9.3274 

44^31 

41.97 

37.31 

34.98 

30^31 

88 

9^3808 

44^56 

42.21 

37!  52 

35!  18 

30^49 

89 

9!  4.340 

44.81 

42.45 

37*74 

35^38 

30^66 

90 

9.4868 

45^06 

42.69 

37I95 

35^58 

30.83 

91 

9  [5394 

45^31 

42.93 

38]  16 

35^77 

31.00 

92 

9^5917 

45.56 

43.16 

38^37 

35!  97 

31.17 

93 

9.6437 

45.81 

43.40 

38.57 

36J6 

31.34 

94 

9.6954 

46.05 

43.63 

38.78 

36.36 

31.51 

95 

9.7468 

46.30 

43.86 

38.99 

36.55 

31.68 

96 

9/7980 

46.54 

44.09 

39.19 

36.74 

31.84 

97 

9.8489 

46/78 

44^32 

39.40 

36]93 

32.01 

98 

9.8995 

47.02 

44.55 

39!60 

37^12 

32.17 

99 

9.9499 

47.26 

44.77 

39.80 

37^31 

32.34 

100 

10.0000 

47.50 

45.00 

40.00 

37I5O 

32.50 

101 

10.0499 

47.74 

45^22 

40.20 

37^69 

32.66 

102 

10.0995 

47.97 

45.45 

40.40 

37.87 

32.82 

103 

10.1489 

48^21 

45.67 

40.60 

38.06 

32.98 

104 

10.1980 

48.44 

45^89 

40.79 

38.24 

33.14 

105 

10.2470 

48.67 

46^11 

40.99 

38.43 

33.30 

106 

10.2956 

48.90 

46^33 

41.18 

38^61 

33.46 

107 

10.3441 

49.13 

46.55 

41.38 

38.79 

33.62 

108 

10.3973 

49.36 

46.77 

41.57 

38.97 

33.77 

109 

10.4403 

49.59 

46.98 

41.76 

39.15 

33.93 

110 

10.4881 

49^82 

47^20 

41.95 

39.33 

34.09 

111 

10.5357 

50!  04 

47^41 

42^14 

39^51 

34.24 

112 

10!  5830 

50.27 

47^62 

42^33 

39^69 

34.39 

113 

10^6301 

50.49 

47.84 

42I52 

39.86 

34.55 

114 

10! 6771 

50.72 

48.05 

42.71 

40.04 

34^70 

115 

10^7238 

50I94 

48*26 

42.90 

40^21 

34.85 

116 

10! 7703 

5l!l6 

48.47 

43.08 

40^39 

35^00 

117 

lo!8167 

51.38 

48.67 

43!  27 

40^56 

35.15 

118 

10*R69^^ 

51.60 

48.88 

43.45 

40I74 

35.30 

119 

10.9087 

51^82 

49.09 

43.63 

40^91 

35.45 

120 

10  Q^4t 

52^03 

49^30 

43^82 

4l!08 

35^60 

121 

11  0()()0 

52^25 

49.50 

44.00 

41*25 

35^75 

122 

11.0454 

52.47 

49.70 

44^18 

41.42 

35^90 

123 

■i-  J. .  \JV\JO 

52^68 

49.91 

44!  36 

41.59 

36^04 

124 

11.1355 

52^89 

50.11 

44.54 

41*73 

36^19 

125 

ll!l803 

53^11 

50.31 

44^72 

41^93 

36^34 

126 

1L2250 

53.32 

50.51 

44^90 

42.09 

36!  48 

127 

11^2694 

53^53 

50.71 

45.08 

42^26 

36^63 

128 

11.3137 

53.74 

50  91 

45.25 

42  43 

36  77 

129 

ll!3578 

53^95 

5L12 

45!43 

42!59 

36!91 

130 

11.4018 

54.16 

51.31 

45.61 

42.76 

37.06 

131 

11.4455 

54.37 

51.50 

45.78 

42.92 

37.20 

132 

11.4891 

54.57 

51.70 

45.96 

43.08 

37.34 

las 

11.5326 

54.78 

51.90 

46.13 

43.25 

37.48 

134 

11.5758 

54.99 

52.09 

46.30 

43.41 

37.62 

135 

11.6190 

55.19 

52.29 

46.48 

43.57 

37.76 

136 

11.6619 

55.39 

52.48 

46.65 

43.73 

37.90 

137 

11.7047 

55.60 

52.67 

46.82 

43.89 

38.04 

138 

11.7473 

55.80 

52.86 

47.99 

44.05 

38.18 

139 

11.7898 

56.00 

53.05 

47.16 

44.21 

38.32 

140 

11.8322 

56.20 

53.24 

47.33 

44.37 

38.45 

TWIST  TABLES.  125 


TWO  PLY. 


No.  of 

No.  of 
twisted 

oC[.  root 

Square  root 

No.  of 

No.  of 
twisted 

Square  root  1 

yarn 
to  be 

01  iiO. 

twisted 

multiplied  by 

tcTbe 

of  No. 
twisted 

multiplied  by 

yarn. 

yarn. 

twist  d. 

yarn. 

4 

5 

6 

twist'd. 

yarn. 

5 

6 

1 

c 
.O 

7A71 

2.83 

3.54 

4.24 

76 

38. 

6.1644 

30.82 

36.99 

o 

1 

4. 

5. 

6. 

77 

38!5 

6!2049 

31.02 

37.23 

Q 

1  K 

1  2247 

4.90 

6.12 

7.35 

78 

39. 

6.2450 

31.22 

37.47 

A 

o 

1  4142 

5.66 

7.07 

8.49 

79 

39!5 

6!2849 

31.42 

37.71 

C 

O 

^.o 

l!5811 

6.32 

7.91 

9.49 

80 

40. 

6!3246 

31.62 

37.95 

O 

o 
o. 

1.7321 

6.93 

8.66 

10.39 

81 

40.5 

6!3640 

31.82 

38.18 

rt 
i 

o.O 

1.8708 

7.48 

9.35 

11.22 

82 

41. 

6.4031 

32.02 

38.42 

Q 
O 

4^ 

2! 

8. 

10. 

12. 

83 

41.5 

6.4420 

32.21 

38.65 

O 

y 

2  1213 

8.49 

10.61 

12.73 

84 

42. 

6.4807 

32.40 

38.88 

10 

o. 

2  2361 

8.94 

11.18 

13.42 

85 

42!5 

6!5192 

32.60 

39.12 

1 1 

x± 

O.O 

2!3452 

9.38 

11.73 

14.07 

86 

43! 

6!5574 

32.79 

39.34 

JL^ 

2.4495 

9.80 

12.25 

14.70 

87 

43.5 

6.5955 

32.98 

39.57 

6.5 

2.5495 

10.20 

12.75 

15.30 

88 

44. 

6.6332 

33.17 

39.80 

14: 

2.6458 

10.58 

13.23 

15.87 

89 

44.5 

6.6708 

33.35 

40.02 

7.5 

2.7386 

10.95 

13.69 

16.43 

90 

45. 

6.7082 

33.54 

40.25 

16 

s! 

2!8284 

11.31 

14.14 

16.97 

91 

45.5 

6.7454 

33.73 

40.47 

2!9155 

11.66 

14.58 

17.49 

92 

46. 

6.7823 

33.91 

40.69 

18 

9! 

3! 

12. 

15. 

18. 

93 

46.5 

6.8191 

34.10 

40.91 

9I5 

12.33 

15.41 

18.49 

94 

47. 

6.8557 

34.28 

41.13 

10! 

3.1623 

12.65 

15.81 

18.97 

95 

47.5 

6.8920 

34.46 

41.35 

21 

lois 

3^2404 

12.96 

16.20 

19.44 

96 

48. 

6.9282 

34.64 

41.57 

11! 

3.3166 

13.27 

16.58 

19.90 

97 

48.5 

6.9642 

34.82 

41.79 

11^5 

3^3912 

13.56 

16.96 

20.35 

98 

49! 

7! 

35. 

42. 

24: 

12! 

3*4(341 

13.86 

17.32 

20.78 

99 

49!5 

7!o356 

35.18 

42.21 

25 

12^5 

Q*p;qp:f: 

14.14 

17.68 

21.21 

100 

50! 

7!o711 

35.36 

42.43 

26 

13! 

14.42 

18.03 

21.63 

101 

5o!5 

7!l063 

35.53 

42.64 

97 

13*5 

3.6742 

14.70 

18.37 

22.05 

102 

51! 

7!l414 

35.70 

42.85 

28 

14! 

3^74^7 

14.97 

18.71 

22.45 

103 

5l!5 

7.1763 

35.88 

43.06 

29 

14^5 

3]gQ79 

15.23 

19.04 

22.85 

104 

52! 

7!2111 

36.06 

43.27 

15! 

3^3730 

15.49 

19.37 

23.24 

105 

52!5 

7*2457 

36.23 

43.47 

31 

15*5 

3^9370 

15.75 

19.69 

23.62 

106 

53. 

7.2801 

36.40 

43.68 

32 

16. 

4] 

16.' 

20. 

24. 

107 

53.5 

7!3144 

36.57 

43.89 

33 

16!5 

4^0620 

16.25 

20.31 

24.37 

108 

54! 

7!3485 

36.74 

44.09 

^J. 

17* 

4^1231 

16.49 

20.62 

24.74 

109 

54!5 

7*3324 

36.91 

44.29 

OO 

17*5 

4*^1333 

16.73 

20.92 

25.10 

110 

55. 

7!4162 

37.08 

44.50 

OD 

is! 

4^2426 

16.97 

21,21 

25.46 

111 

55.5 

7.4498 

37.25 

44.70 

o  / 

4*3012 

17.20 

21.51 

25.81 

112 

56. 

7,4333 

37.42 

44.90 

OO 

19! 

4^3539 

17.44 

21.79 

26.15 

113 

56.5 

7.5166 

37.58 

45.10 

Ot7 

19)5 

4*4159 

17.66 

22.08 

26.50 

114 

57! 

7^5493 

37.75 

45.30 

*U 

20I 

4.4721 

17.89 

22.36 

26.83 

115 

57*5 

7^5329 

37.91 

45.50 

41 

20^5 

4^5277 

18.11 

22.64 

27.17 

116 

53* 

7!6158 

38.08 

45.69 

42 

21! 

4^5326 

18.33 

22.91 

27.50 

117 

53^5 

7^(5435 

38.24 

45.89 

43 

21^5 

4!6368 

18.55 

23.18 

27.82 

118 

59! 

7,QSH 

38.41 

46.09 

44 

22! 

4^(5904 

18.76 

23.45 

28.14 

119 

59^5 

7,71S6 

38.57 

46.28 

45 

22^5 

4^7434 

18.97 

23.72 

28.46 

120 

60! 

7!7460 

38.73 

46.48 

46 

23. 

4!7958 

19.18 

23.98 

28.77 

121 

6o!5 

7!7782 

38.89 

46.67 

47 

23^5 

4!8477 

19.39 

24.24 

29.09 

122 

61! 

7.8102 

39.05 

46.86 

48 

24! 

4!8990 

19.60 

24.49 

29.39 

123 

6l!5 

7.8422 

39.21 

47.05 

49 

24^5 

4!9497 

19.80 

24.75 

29.70 

124 

62! 

7!8740 

39.37 

47.24 

50 

25! 

5! 

20. 

25. 

30. 

125 

62!5 

7.9057 

39.53 

47.43 

51 

25^5 

5!0498 

20.20 

25.25 

30.30 

126 

63! 

7!9373 

39.69 

47.62 

52 

26*. 

5!o990 

20.40 

25.50 

30.59 

127 

63!5 

7!9687 

39.84 

47.81 

53 

26!5 

5^1473 

20.59 

25.74 

30.89 

128 

64! 

8. 

40. 

48. 

54 

27! 

5*1962 

20.78 

25.98 

31.18 

129 

64!5 

8.0312 

40.16 

48.19 

55 

27.5 

5^2440 

20.98 

26.22 

31.46 

130 

65! 

Q*OR9^ 

40.31 

48.37 

56 

28! 

5^2915 

21.17 

26.46 

31.75 

131 

65^5 

40.47 

48.56 

57 

28  !5 

5*3335 

21.35 

26.69 

32.03 

132 

66! 

8.1240 

40.62 

48.74 

58 

29! 

5^3352 

21.54 

26.93 

32.31 

133 

qq\5 

3^1543 

40.77 

48.93 

59 

29!5 

5^4314 

21.73 

27.16 

32.59 

134 

67! 

8.1854 

40.93 

49.11 

60 

3o! 

5^4772 

21.91 

27.39 

32.86 

135 

67!5 

8.2158 

41.08 

49.30 

61 

3o!5 

5*^5227 

22.09 

27.61 

33.14 

136 

68! 

3  2462 

41.23 

49.48 

62 

31! 

5!5678 

22.27 

27.84 

33.41 

137 

68!5 

8.2765 

41.38 

49.66 

63 

3l!5 

5!6125 

22.45 

28.06 

33.67 

138 

69! 

ft'^Ofifi 

41.53 

49.84 

64 

32! 

5*6569 

22.63 

28.28 

33.94 

139 

69!5 

8.3367 

41.68 

50.02 

65 

32!5 

5.7009 

22.80 

28.50 

34.21 

140 

70. 

41.83 

50.20 

66 

33* 

5*744g 

22.98 

28.72 

34.47 

141 

70.5 

8.3964 

41.98 

50.38 

67 

33^5 

5.7879 

23.15 

28.94 

34.73 

142 

71 

8  4261 

42.13 

50.56 

68 

34! 

5!8310 

23.32 

29.15 

34.99 

143 

7l!5 

8!4558 

42.28 

50.73 

69 

34.5 

5.8737 

23.49 

29.37 

35.24 

144 

72. 

8.4853 

42.43 

50.91 

70 

35. 

5.9161 

23.66 

29.58 

35.50 

145 

72.5 

8.5147 

42.57 

51.09 

71 

35.5 

5.9582 

23.83 

29.79 

35.75 

146 

73. 

8.5440 

42.72 

51.26 

72 

36. 

6. 

24. 

30. 

36. 

147 

73.5 

8.5732 

42.87 

51.44 

73 

36.5 

6.0415 

24.17 

30.21 

36.25 

148 

74. 

8.6023 

43.01 

51.61 

74 

37. 

6.0828 

24.33 

30.41 

36.50 

149 

74.5 

8.6313 

43.16 

51.79 

75 

37.5 

6.1237 

24.49 

30.62 

36.74 

150 

75. 

8.6603 

43.30 

51.96 

126  TWIST  TABLES. 


THREJE  PI.Y. 


No.  of 

No.  of 
twisted 

Sq.  root 

Square  root 

No.  of 

No,  of 
twisted 

Sq.  root 

Square  root 

yarn 
to  be 
twist'd. 

of  No. 
twisted 
yarn. 

multiplied  by 

yarn 
to  be 
twist'd. 

of  No. 
twisted 
yarn. 

multiplied  by 

yarn. 

4 

5 

6 

yarn. 

5 

6 

1 

.33 

.5774 

2.31 

2.89 

3.46 

76 

25.33 

5.0332 

25.17 

30.20 

2 

.67 

.8165 

3.27 

4.08 

4.90 

77 

25.67 

5.0662 

25.33 

30.40 

3 

1. 

1. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

78 

26. 

5.0990 

25.50 

30.59 

4 

1.33 

1.1547 

4.62 

5.77 

6.93 

79 

26.33 

5.1316 

25.66 

30.79 

5 

1.67 

1.2910 

5.16 

6.45 

7.75 

80 

26.67 

5.1640 

25.82 

30.98 

6 

2. 

1.4142 

5.66 

7.07 

8.49 

81 

27. 

5.1962 

25.98 

31.18 

7 

2.33 

1.5275 

6.11 

7.64 

9.17 

82 

27.33 

5.2281 

26.14 

31.37 

8 

2.67 

1.6330 

6.53 

8.16 

9.80 

83 

27.67 

5.2599 

26.30 

31.56 

9 

3. 

1.7321 

6.93 

8.66 

10.39 

84 

28. 

5.2915 

26.46 

31.75 

10 

3.33 

1.8257 

7.30 

9.13 

10.95 

85 

28.33 

5.3229 

26.61 

31.94 

11 

3.67 

1.9149 

7.66 

9.57 

11.49 

86 

28.67 

5.3541 

26.77 

32.12 

12 

4. 

2. 

8. 

10. 

12. 

87 

29. 

5.3852 

26.93 

32.31 

13 

4.33 

2.0817 

8.33 

10.41 

12.49 

88 

29.33 

5.4160 

27.08 

32.50 

14 

4.67 

2.1602 

8.64 

10.80 

12.96 

89 

29.67 

5.4467 

27.23 

32.68 

15 

5. 

2.2361 

8.94 

11.18 

13.42 

90 

30. 

5.4772 

27.39 

32.86 

16 

5.33 

2.3094 

9.24 

11.55 

13.86 

91 

30.33 

5.5076 

27.54 

33.05 

17 

5.67 

2.3805 

9.52 

11.90 

14.28 

92 

30.67 

5.5377 

27.69 

33.23 

18 

6. 

2.4495 

9.80 

12.25 

14.70 

93 

31. 

5.5678 

27.84 

33.41 

19 

6.33 

2.5166 

10.07 

12.58 

15.10 

94 

31.33 

5.5976 

27.99 

33.59 

20 

6.67 

2.5820 

10.33 

12.91 

15.49 

95 

31.67 

5.6273 

28.14 

33.76 

21 

7. 

2.6458 

10.58 

13.23 

15.87 

96 

32. 

5.6569 

28.28 

33.94 

22 

7.33 

2.7080 

10.83 

13.54 

16.25 

97 

32.33 

5.6862 

28.43 

34.12 

23 

7.67 

2.7689 

11.08 

13.84 

16.61 

.  98 

32.67 

5.7155 

28.58 

34.29 

24 

8. 

2.8284 

11.31 

14.14 

16.97 

99 

33. 

5.7446 

28.72 

34.47 

25 

8.33 

2.8868 

11.55 

14.43 

17.32 

100 

33.33 

5.7735 

28.87 

34.64 

26 

8.67 

2.9439 

11.76 

14.72 

17.66 

101 

33.67 

5.8023 

29.01 

34.81 

27 

9. 

3. 

12. 

15. 

18. 

102 

34. 

5.8310 

29.15 

34.99 

28 

9.33 

3.0551 

12.22 

15.28 

18.33 

103 

34.33 

5.8595 

29.30 

35.16 

29 

9.67 

3.1091 

12.44 

15.55 

18.65 

104 

34.67 

5.8878 

29.44 

35.33 

30 

10. 

3.1623 

12.65 

15.81 

18.97 

105 

35. 

5.9161 

29.58 

35.50 

31 

10.33 

3.2145 

12.86 

16.07 

19.29 

106 

35.33 

5.9442 

29.72 

35.67 

32 

10.67 

3.2659 

13.06 

16.33 

19.60 

107 

35.67 

5.9722 

29.86 

35.83 

33 

11. 

3.3166 

13.27 

16.58 

19.90 

108 

36. 

6. 

30. 

36. 

34 

11.33 

3.3665 

13.47 

16.83 

20.20 

109 

36.33 

6.0277 

30.14 

36.17 

35 

11.67 

3.4157 

13.66 

17.08 

20.49 

110 

36.67 

6.0553 

30.28 

36.33 

36 

12. 

3.4641 

13,86 

17.32 

20.78 

111 

37. 

6.0828 

30.41 

36.50 

37 

12.33 

3.5119 

14.05 

17.56 

21.07 

112 

37.33 

6.1101 

30.55 

36.66 

38 

12.67 

3.5590 

14.24 

17.80 

21.35 

113 

37.67 

6.1374 

30.69 

36.83 

39 

13. 

3.6056 

14.42 

18.03 

21.63 

114 

38. 

6.1644 

30.82 

36.99 

40 

13.33 

3.6515 

14.61 

18.26 

21.91 

115 

38.33 

6.1914 

30.96 

37.15 

41 

13.67 

3.6969 

14.79 

18.48 

22.18 

116 

38.67 

6.2183 

31.09 

37.31 

42 

14. 

3.7417 

14.97 

18.71 

22.45 

117 

39. 

6.2450 

31.22 

37.47 

43 

14.33 

3.7859 

15.14 

18.93 

22.72 

118 

39.33 

6.2716 

31.36 

37.63 

44 

14.67 

3.8297 

15.32 

19.15 

22.98 

119 

39.67 

6.2981 

31.49 

37.79 

45 

15. 

3.8730 

15.49 

19.36 

23.24 

120 

40. 

6.3246 

31.62 

37.95 

46 

15.33 

3.9158 

15.66 

19.58 

23.49 

121 

40.33 

6.3509 

31.75 

38.11 

47 

15.67 

3.9582 

15.83 

19.79 

23.75 

122 

40.67 

6.3770 

31.89 

38.26 

48 

16. 

4. 

16. 

20. 

24. 

123 

41. 

6.4031 

32.02 

38.42 

49 

16.33 

4.0415 

16.17 

20.21 

24.25 

124 

41.33 

6.4291 

32.15 

38.57 

50 

16.67 

4.0825 

16.33 

20.41 

24.49 

125 

41.67 

6.4550 

32.27 

38.73 

51 

17. 

4.1231 

16.49 

20.62 

24.74 

126 

42. 

6.4807 

32.40 

38.88 

52 

17.33 

4.1633 

16.65 

20.82 

24.98 

127 

42.33 

6.5064 

32.53 

39.04 

53 

17.67 

4.2032 

16.81 

21.02 

25.22 

128 

42.67 

6.5320 

32.66 

39.19 

54 

18. 

4.2426 

16.97 

21.21 

25.46 

129 

43. 

6.5574 

32.79 

39.34 

55 

18.33 

4.2817 

17.13 

21.41 

25.69 

130 

43.33 

6.5828 

32.91 

39.50 

56 

18.67 

4.3205 

17.28 

21.60 

25.92 

131 

43.67 

6.6081 

33.04 

39.65 

57 

19. 

4.3589 

17.44 

21.79 

26.15 

132 

44. 

6.6332 

33.17 

39.80 

58 

19.33 

4.3970 

17.59 

21.98 

26.38 

133 

44.33 

6.6583 

33.29 

39.95 

59 

19.67 

4.4347 

17.74 

22.17 

26.61 

134 

44.67 

6.6833 

33.42 

40.10 

60 

20. 

4.4721 

17.89 

22.36 

26.83 

135 

45. 

6.7082 

33.54 

40.25 

61 

20.33 

4.5092 

18.04 

22.55 

27.06 

136 

45.33 

6.7330 

33.67 

40.40 

62 

20.67 

4.5461 

18.18 

22.73 

27.28 

137 

45.67 

6.7577 

33.79 

40.55 

63 

21. 

4.5826 

18.33 

22.91 

27.50 

138 

46. 

6.7823 

33.91 

40.69 

64 

21.33 

4.6188 

18.48 

23.09 

27.71 

139 

46.33 

6.8069 

34.03 

40.84 

65 

21.67 

4.6547 

18.62 

23.27 

27.93 

140 

46.67 

6.8313 

34.16 

40.99 

66 

22. 

4.6904 

18.76 

23.45 

28.14 

141 

47. 

6.8557 

34.28 

41.13 

67 

22.33 

4.7258 

18.90 

23.63 

28.35 

142 

47.33 

6.8799 

34.40 

41.28 

68 

22.67 

4.7610 

19.04 

23.80 

28.57 

143 

47.67 

6.9041 

34.52 

41.42 

69 

23. 

4.7958 

19.18 

23.98 

28.77 

144 

48. 

6.9282 

34.64 

41.57 

70 

23.33 

4.8305 

19.32 

24.15 

28.98 

145 

48.33 

6.9522 

34.76 

41.71 

71 

23.67 

4.8648 

19.46 

24.32 

29.19 

146 

48.67 

6.9762 

34.88 

41.86 

72 

24. 

4.8990 

19.60 

24.49 

29.39 

147 

49. 

7. 

35. 

42. 

73 

24.33 

4.9329 

19.73 

24.66 

29.60 

148 

49.33 

7.0238 

35.12 

42.14 

74 

24.67 

4.9666 

19.87 

24.83 

29.80 

149 

49.67 

7.0475 

35.24 

42.28 

75 

25. 

5. 

20. 

25. 

30. 

150 

50. 

7.0711 

35.36 

42.43 

T  WIST  TABLES.  1 27 


FOUR  PLY. 


No.  of 

yarn 
to  be 
twist'd. 

No.  of 
twisted 
yarn. 

sq.  root 
of  No. 

twisted 
yarn. 

Square  root 
multiplied  by 

No.  of 
yarn 
to  be 
wist  d. 

No.  of  ^ 
twisted 
yarn. 

5q.  root 
of  No. 

;wisted 
yarn. 

Square  root 
multiplied  by 

4 

5 

6  t 

6 

6 

1 

.2o 

.o 

2. 

2.5 

3. 

7b 

1  Q 

ly. 

t.ooSy 

21.79  . 

26.15 

2 

.50 

.7071 

2.83 

3.54 

4.24 

77 

or; 

1.3875 

21.94 

26.32 

3 

.75 

.8660 

3.46 

4.33 

5.20 

78 

.50 

i.4159 

22.08 

26.50 

4 

1. 

1. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

79 

.  i  o 

A   A  A  A  1 

22.22 

26.66 

5 

.25 

1.1180 

4.47 

5.59 

6.71 

80 

OA 
JU. 

db.4:  /  Zl 

22.36 

26.83 

6 

.50 

1.2247 

4.90 

6.12 

7.35 

81 

of; 

1  f; 

4.0 

22.5 

27. 

7 

.75 

1.3229 

5.29 

6.61 

7.94 

.OU 

A  f;o'7'7 

4:.0  J  /  / 

22.64 

27.17 

8 

2. 

1.4142 

5.66 

7.07 

8.49 

Oo 

.  <  o 

4.5552 

22.78'27.33 

9 

.25 

1.5 

6. 

7.5 

9. 

84 

01 

A  f;qo A 
4:.0o  Jb 

22.91127.50 

10 

.50 

1.5811 

6.32 

7.91 

9.49 

85 

or; 

A  AAQft 

4:.bUyo 

23.05'27.66 

11 

.75 

1.6583 

6.63 

8.29 

9.95 

Q  A 

ob 

f;a 

.OU 

A  AQAft 
4.bobO 

23.18, 

27.82 

12 

3. 

1.7321 

6.93 

8.66 

10.39 

QT 

tf; 
.  <  o 

A  A AQT 

23.32 

27.98 

13 

.25 

1.8028 

7.21 

9.01 

10.82 

c5o 

oo 

A  AQAA 

4:.byU4: 

23.45 

28.14 

14 

.50 

1.8708 

7.48 

9.35 

11.22 

OPl 

A  Tl  TA 
4:.  /  1  /  U 

23.58 

28.30 

15 

.75 

1.9365 

7.75 

9.68 

11.62 

90 

PiA 
.OU 

4:.  1  4:04b 

23.72 

28.46 

16 

4. 

2. 

8. 

10. 

12. 

91 

1  f; 
.  I  o 

A  TAQT 

4.  /  by  / 

23.85 

28.62 

17 

2.0616 

8.25 

10.31 

12.37 

QO 

yz 

0^ 
^o. 

23.98 

28.77 

18 

•  OU 

8.49 

10.61 

12.73 

QQ 

yo 

25 

4  8218 

24.11 

28.93 

19 

.75 

2.1794 

8.72 

10.90 

13.08 

94 

PIA 
.OU 

4:. 04  /  / 

24.24 

29.09 

30 

o. 

8.94 

11.18 

13.42 

QPL 

yo 

.  1  o 

4  8734 

24.37 

29.24 

21 

.Jo 

2.2913 

9.17 

11.46 

13.75 

QA 

yb 

OA 

A  QQQA 

4:.o  yyu 

24.49 

29.39 

22 

.oU 

2.3452 

9.38 

11.73 

1 4.07 

QT 

y  / 

.^O 

4  924^4 

24.62 

29.55 

23 

.75 

9.59 

11.99 

14.39 

QQ 

yo 

PIA 
.OU 

A  QAQ7 

24.75 

29.70 

24 

D. 

2.4495 

9.80 

12.25 

14.70 

QQ 

yy 

.  1  o 

4:.y  /  ^y 

24.87 

29.85 

25 

•  JO 

2.5 

10. 

12.5 

15. 

100 

of; 

f; 
O. 

25. 

30. 

26 

.OU 

2.5495 

10.20 

12.75 

15.30 

J.U1 

or; 
.^o 

f;  aoaq 

25.12 

30.15 

27 

.  i  o 

2.5981 

10.39 

12.99 

15.59 

1  AO 
±UZ 

f;A 

.OU 

5  0498 

25.25 

30.30 

28 

rr 
/  . 

2.6458 

10.58 

13.23 

15.87 

1  AQ 
±UO 

7?; 
.  /  o 

f;  ataa 

O.U  1 

25.37 

30.45 

29 

.25 

10.77 

13.46 

16.16 

104 

OA 

r;  AQQA 
o.uyyu 

25.50 

30.59 

30 

.50 

2.7386 

10.95 

13.69 

16.43 

105 

of; 

r;  1  OQr; 
0.1  JoO 

25.62 

30.74 

31 

.75 

11.14 

13.92 

16.70 

106 

f;a 
.OU 

r;  1  ATft 
0.14  /  o 

25.74 

30.89 

32 

8. 

2.8284 

11.31 

14.14 

16.97 

107 

tf; 
.  I  o 

r;  1  TOA 
O.l  <  ^u 

25.86 

31.03 

33 

2.8723 

11.49 

14.36 

17.23 

108 

07 

r;  1  QAO 
O.iyb^ 

25.98 

31.18 

34 

.ou 

2.9155 

11.66 

14.58 

17.49 

109 

of; 

r;  OOAO 
O.  J^U^ 

26.10 

31.32 

35 

.75 

2.9580 

11.83 

14,79 

17.75 

110 

f;a 

.OU 

f;  oaaa 

O.  J4:4:U 

26.22 

31.46 

36 

o 

V. 

3. 

12. 

15. 

18. 

111 

tf; 
.  /  o 

f;  oats 
o.  Jb  /  o 

26.34 

31.61 

37 

•  ZO 

3.0414 

12.17 

15.21 

18.25 

112 

28 

f;  oqi  r; 
o.zyio 

26.46 

31.75 

38 

.OU 

3.0822 

12.33 

15.41 

18.49 

llo 

.zo 

r;  Qi  f;i 
o.oioi 

26.58 

31.89 

39 

.75 

3.1225112.49 

15.61 

18.73 

11/1 

f;a 
,ou 

r;  QQftF; 

O.OoOO 

26.69 

32.03 

40 

lU. 

3.1623 

12.65 

15.81 

18.97 

1 1 

no 

1  f; 
.  <  o 

5  3618 

26.81 

32.17 

41 

O  r; 

3.2016 

12.81 

16,01 

19.21 

1  1  A 

lib 

29 

r;  Q«r;o 

26.93 

32.31 

42 

.50 

3.2404 

12.96 

16.20 

19.44 

117 

or; 

f;  a  aqq 
0.4UOO 

27.04 

32.45 

43 

.75 

3.2787 

13.11 

16.39 

19.67 

118 

f;a 
.OU 

f;  /I  Qi  A 
O.4ol4 

27.16 

32.59 

44 

11. 

3.3166 

13.27 

16.58 

19.90 

119 

tf; 
.  /  o 

r;  /<  r;AQ 
0.4040 

27.27 

32.73 

45 

.ZO 

3.3541 

13.42 

16.77 

20.12 

120 

QA 
oU. 

f;  a  tvo 
0.4  i  t  Z 

27.39 

32.86 

46 

.OU 

3.3912 

13.56 

16.96 

20.35 

121 

of; 
.zo 

r;  r; 
o.o 

27.5 

33. 

47 

.  /  o 

3.4278 

13.71 

17.14 

20.57 

122 

r;A 
.OU 

f;  r;oo7 
o.o  J^  / 

27.61 

33.14 

48 

1  o 

3.4641 

13.86 

17.32 

20.78 

123 

Tr; 
.  /  o 

r;  r;AF;Q 

0.0400 

27.73 

33.27 

49 

.i^O 

3.5 

14. 

17.5 

21. 

1  OA 
1Z4: 

Q1 
ol. 

f;  F;A7ft 
O.Ob  /  o 

27.84 

33.41 

50 

.50 

3.5355 

14.14 

17.68 

21.21 

12o 

of; 
.JO 

f;  r;QAO 
o.oyu  J 

27.95 

33.54 

51 

.75 

3.5707 

14.28 

17.85 

21.42 

126 

r;A 
.OU 

f;  ai  of; 
O.bl  JO 

28.06 

33.67 

52 

1  Q 

lo. 

3.6056 

14.42 

18.03 

21.63 

127 

.  /  O 

f;  aQ/4 t 
O.bo4  / 

28.17 

33.81 

53 

•  JO 

3.6401 

14.56 

18.20 

21.84 

128 

QO 
o  J. 

f;  a  f; AO 
O.bOby 

28.28 

33.94 

54 

.OU 

3.6742 

14.70 

18.37 

22.05 

129 

of; 

.JO 

r;  ATQQ 
O.b  /  oy 

28.39 

34.07 

OO 

.75 

3.7081 

14.83 

18.54 

22.25 

130 

r;A 
.OU 

r;  TAAQ 
o.  /  uuy 

28.50 

34.21 

Ob 

1  A. 

3.7417 

14.97 

18.71 

22.45 

131 

tf; 
.  <  o 

O.  /  J  JO 

28.61 

34.34 

o  / 

.zo 

3.7749115.10 

18.87 

22.65 

132 

QQ 
OO. 

5.7446 

28.72 

34.47 

Oo 

Pin 

.OU 

3.8079il5.23 

19.04 

22.85 

1  QQ 

loo 

o  f; 
.JO 

5.7663 

28.83 

34.60 

59 

.75 

3.8406  15. 36 

19.20 

23.04 

134 

.50 

5.7879 

28.94 

34.73 

60 

±o. 

3.8730  15.49  19.37 

23.24 

135 

.75 

5.8095 

29.05 

34.86 

CK'\ 

.zo 

3.9051  15.62 

19.53 

23.43 

136 

Q/l 

04. 

5.8310 

29.15 

34.99 

CK.O 
K)Z 

.OU 

3.9370  15.75 

19.69 

23.62 

137 

.25 

5.8524 

29.26 

35.11 

DO 

.  /  O 

3.968e 

15.88 

19.84 

23.81 

138 

.50 

5.8737 

29.37 

35.24 

04: 

1  A 
±D. 

4. 

16. 

20. 

24. 

139 

.75 

5.8949 

29.47 

35.37 

DO 

.ZO 

4.0311116.12 

20.16 

24.ie 

140 

35. 

5.9161  29.58 

35.50 

DO 

.OU 

4.0620'il6.25 

20.31 

24.37 

141 

.25 

5.9372  29.69 

35.62 

.lo 

4.0927'l6.37 

20.46  24.56 

142 

.50 

5.9582  29.79 

35.75 

68 

17. 

4.1231il6.4£ 

20.62 124.74 

143 

.75 

5.9791  29.90 

35.87 

69 

.25 

4.1533  16.61 

20.77124.92 

144 

36. 

6. 

30. 

36. 

70 

.50 

4.1833  16.72 

20.92:25. IC 

145 

.25 

6.0208  30.10 

36.12 

71 

.75 

4.2130|16.8£ 

21.07125.28 

146 

.50 

6.0415  30.21 

36.25 

72 

18. 

4.2426  16.9'; 

'  21.21125.46 

147 

.75 

6.0622  30.31 

36.37 

73 

.25 

4.2720  17.0^ 

)  21.36  25.62 

148 

37. 

6.0828  30.41 

36.50 

74 

.50 

4.301217.20121. 51  25.8] 

149 

.25 

6.1033  30.52 

36.62 

75 

.75  I4.3301|17.32  21.65, 25.9^ 

150 

.50 

6.1237  30.62 

36.74 

128 


TWIST  TABLES. 

FIVE  PLY. 


No.  of 

No.  of 
twisted 

bq.  root 

Square  root 

No.  of 

No  of 
twisted 

Sq.  root 

Square  root 

yarn 

of  No. 

multiplied  by 

yarn 

of  No. 

multiplied  by 

to  be 
twist'd. 

twisted 
yarn. 

to  be 
twist  d. 

twisted 

yarn. 

4 

5 

6 

yarn. 

yarn. 

5 

6 

1 

1.79 

2.24 

2.68 

1  D 

JLO.Z 

3.8987  19.49 

23.39 

2 

A 
.4: 

.OOiiO 

2.53 

3.16 

3.79 

77 

.4 

3.9243  19.62  23.55 

3 

.6 

.7746 

3.10 

3.87 

4.65 

78 

.6 

3.9497 

19.75  23.70 

4 

Q 
.O 

.8944 

3.58 

4.47 

5.37 

79 

Q 
.O 

3.9749  19.87 

23.85 

5 

1. 

1- 

4. 

5. 

6. 

80 

lo. 

4. 

20. 

24. 

6 

.2 

1.0954 

4.38 

5.48 

6.57 

81 

.2 

4.0249  20.12  24.15 

7 

.4 

1.1832 

4.73 

5.92 

7.10 

82 

.4 

4.0497  20.25 

24.30 

8 

.6 

1.2649 

5.06 

6.32 

7.59 

83 

.6 

4.0743  20.37 

24.45 

9 

.8 

1.3416 

5.37 

6.71 

8.05 

84 

Q 
.O 

4.0988  20.49.24.59 

10 

1.4142 

5.66 

7.07 

8.49 

85 

1  '7 

4.1231  20.62124.74 

11 

.2 

1.4832 

5.93 

7.42 

8.90 

86 

O 

4.1473,20.74  24.88 

12 

.4 

1.5492 

6.20 

7.75 

9.30 

87 

.4 

4.1713'20.86|25.03 

13 

.6 

l.DlZO 

6.45 

8.06 

9.67 

C2Q 
OO 

.o 

4.1952,20.98125.17 

Q 

.o 

JL  .o  /  oo 

6.69 

8.37 

10.04 

QQ 

Q 

.o 

4.2190'21. 10  25.31 

15 

Q 
O. 

1  'TQOI 
1,  /  O 

6.93 

8.66 

10.39 

90 

4.2426 

21.21  25.46 

XO 

.2 

1  '7QQQ 

7.16 

8.95 

10.73 

91 

4.2661 

21.33  25.60 

17 

.4 

1    Q  -1  Q  Q 

7.38 

9.22 

11.06 

92 

.4 

4.2895 

21.45  25.74 

18 

.6 

j-.oy  /  4 

7.59 

9.49 

11.38 

93 

n 
.O 

4.3128 

21.56  25.88 

19 

.8 

7.80 

9.75 

11.70 

94 

Q 

.c5 

4.3359 

21.68 

26.02 

20 

A 

4. 

o 

^. 

8. 

10. 

12. 

95 

1  Q 

xy. 

4.3589 

21.79 

26.15 

21 

.2 

2.0494 

8.20 

10.25 

12.30 

96 

.2 

4.3818 

21.91  26.29 

22 

.4 

2.0976 

8.39 

10.49 

12.59 

97 

,4 

4.4045 

22.02  26.43 

23 

.6 

^.144o 

8.58110.72 

12.87 

98 

.6 

4.4272 

22.14126.56 

24 

.8 

2.1909 

8.76 

10.95 

13.15 

99 

Q 

4.4497 

22.25 

26.70 

25 

o. 

2.2361 

8.94 

11.18 

13.42 

100 

4.4721 

22.36 

26.83 

26 

.2 

2.2804 

9.12 

11.40 

13.68 

101 

4.4944 

22.47 

26.97 

27 

.4 

2.3238 

9.30 

11.62 

13.94 

102 

.4 

4.5166 

22.58 

27.10 

28 

.6 

2.3664 

9.47 

11.83 

14.20 

103 

.6 

4.5387 

22.69  27.23 

29 

.8 

2.4083 

9.63 

12.04 

14.45 

104 

Q 
.O 

4.5607 

22.80  27.36 

30 

D. 

2.4495 

9.80 

12.25 

14.70 

105 

^x. 

4.5826  22.91  27.50 

31 

.2 

2.4900 

9.96 

12.45 

14.94 

106 

.2 

4.6043  23.02  27.63 
4.6260  23.13  27.76 

32 

.4 

2.5298  10.12 

12.65 

15.18 

107 

.4 

33 

.6 

2.5690:10.28 

12.85 

15.41 

108 

.6 

4.6476  23. 24  27.89 

34 

.8 

2.6077 

10.43 

13.04 

15.65 

109 

Q 

.o 

4.6690  23.35  28.01 

Q  - 

oo 

/  . 

2.6458  10.58 

13.23 

15.87 

110 

4.6904 

23.45  28.14 

36 

.2 

2.6833  10.73 

13.42 

16.10 

111 

.2 

4.7117 

23.56  28.27 

37 

.4 

2.7203  10.88 

13.60 

16.32 

112 

.4 

4.7329  23.66  28.40 

38 

.6 

2.7568;11.03 

13.78 

16.54 

113 

a. 
.o 

4.7539  23.77 

28.52 

39 

.8 

2.7928  11.17 

13.96 

16.76 

114 

Q 

4.7749  23.87 

28.65 

40 

Q 
O. 

2.8284:11.31 

14.14 

16.97 

115 

9Q 

4.7958 

23.98  28.77 

41 

.2 

2.8636  11.45 

14.32 

17.18 

116 

4.8166  24.08  28.90 

42 

.4 

2.8983  11.59 

14.49 

17.39 

117 

.4 

4.8374  24.19  29.02 

43 

.6 

2.9326  11.73 

14.66 

17.60 

118 

.6 

4.8580 

24.29 

29.15 

44 

.8 

2.9665  11.87 

14.83 

17.80 

119 

.8 

4.8785 

24.39  29.27 

45 

3. 

12. 

15. 

18. 

120 

9  4 
Z4. 

4.8990  24.49,29.39 

.2 

3.0332  12.13 

15.17 

18.20 

121 

.L 

4.9193  24.60  29.52 

47 

.4 

3.0659  12.26 

15.33 

18.40 

122 

.4 

4.9396  24.70  29.64 

48 

.6 

3.0984  12.39 

15.49 

18.59 

123 

.6 

4.9598  24.80,29.76 

49 

.8 

3.1305 

12.52 

15.65 

18.78 

124 

Q 
.O 

4.9800  24.90  29.88 

50 

1  n 

-LU. 

3.1623  12.65 

15.81  18.97 

125 

9!^ 

5. 

25. 

30. 

51 

.2 

3.1937  12.77 

15.97 

19.16 

126 

5.0200  25.10,30.12 

52 

.4 

3.2249  12.90 

16.12  19.35 

127 

A 

.4 

5.0398  25.20,30.24 

53 

.6 

3.2558 

13.02 

16.28  19.53 

128 

a 

.D 

5.0596  25.30  30.36 

54 

.8 

3.2863  13.15 

16.43  19.72 

129 

.8 

5.0794  25.40  30.48 

55 

-L  J-. 

3.3166  13.27 

16.58  19.90 

130 

^o. 

5.0990  25.50  30.59 

56 

3.3466  13.39  16.73  20.08 

131 

.2 

5.1186  25.59.30.71 

57 

.4 

3.3764  13.51116.88  20.26 

132 

.4 

5.1381 

25.69,30.83 

58 

.6 

3.4059  13.62  17.03  20.44 

133 

.6 

5.1575 

25.79  30.95 

59 

.8 

3.4351  13.74  17.18  20.61 

134 

Q 
.O 

5.1769  25.88 

31.06 

60 

3.4641  13.86  17.32  20.78 

135 

97 

5.1962  25.98  31.18 

61 

3.4928  13. 97 

17.46  20.96 

136 

o 
.^1 

5.2154  26.08  31.29 

62 

.4 

3.5214  14.09  17.61  21.13 

137 

.4 

5.2345  26.17 

31.41 

63 

.6 

3.5496  14.20  17.75 

21.30 

138 

c* 
.D 

5.2536  26.27 

31.52 

64 

.8 

3.5777 

14.31  17.89  21.47 

139 

.8 

5.2726,26.36  31.64 

DO 

1  Q 

3.6056  14.42  18.03  21.63 

140 

9Q 

5.2915126.46  31.75 

DO 

.2 

3.6332  14.53  18.17  21.80 

141 

5.3104i26.55 

31.86 

67 

.4 

3.6606  14.64  18.30  21.96 

142 

.4 

5.3292, 

26.65 

31.97 

68 

.6 

3.6878  14.75 

18.44  22.13 

143 

.6 

5.3479i26.74  32.09 

69 

.8 

3.7148114.86  18.57 

22.29 

144 

.8 

5.3666  26.83 

32.20 

70 

14. 

3.7417 

14.97 

18.71  22.45 

145 

29. 

5.3852  26.93 

32.31 

71 

.2 

3.7683  15.07  18.84  22.61 

146 

.2 

5.4037 

27.02 

32.42 

72 

.4 

3.7947 

15.18  18.97 

22.77 

147 

.4 

5.4222 

27.11 

32.53 

73 

.6 

3.8210  15.28  19.10  22.93 

148 

.6 

5.4406  27.20 

32.64 

74 

,8 

3.8471il5. 38  19.24  23.08 

149 

.8    5.4589  27.29  32.7o 

75 

15. 

3.8730  15.49  19.37  23.24 

1.50 

30. 

5.4772  27.39  32.86 

TWIST  TABLES.  129 


SIX  PLY. 


No.  of 

No.  01 
twistec 

!Sq.  root 

Square  root 

No.  of 

No  of 

t  VV  IB  LtJU 

Sq.  root 

\  Square  root 

yarn 
to  be 

of  No. 
twisted 

multiplied  by 

yarn 
to  be 

of  No. 
twisted 

multiplied  by 

yarn. 

yarn. 

twist'd 

yarn. 

4 

5 

6 

twist'd 

yarn. 

5 

6 

1 

.17 

.4082 

1.63 

2.04 

2.45 

76 

12.67 

3.559C 

17.80 

21.35 

2 

.33 

.5774 

2.31 

2.89 

3.46 

77 

.83 

3.5824 

17.91 

21.49 

3 

.50 

.7071 

2.83 

3.54 

4.24 

78 

13. 

3.6056 

18.03 

21.63 

4 

.67 

.8165 

3.27 

4.08 

4.90 

79 

.17 

3.6286 

18.14 

21.77 

5 

.83 

.9129 

3.65 

4.56 

5.48 

80 

.33 

3.6515 

18.26 

21.91 

6 

1. 

1. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

81 

.50 

3.6742 

18.37 

22.05 

7 

.17 

1.0801 

4.32 

5.40 

6.48 

82 

.67 

3.6969 

18.48 

22.18 

8 

.33 

1.1547 

4.62 

5.77 

6.93 

83 

.83 

3.7192 

18.60 

22.32 

9 

.50 

1.2247 

4.90 

6.12 

7.35 

84 

14. 

3.7417 

18.71 

22.45 

10 

.67 

1.2910 

5.16 

6.45 

7.75 

85 

.17 

3.7639 

18.82 

22.58 

11 

.83 

1.3540 

5.42 

6.77 

8.12 

86 

.33 

3.7859 

18.93 

22.72 

12 

2. 

1.4142 

5.66 

7.07 

8.49 

87 

.50 

3.8079 

19.04 

22.85 

13 

.17 

1.4720 

5.89 

7.36 

8.83 

88 

.67 

3.8297 

19.15 

22.98 

14 

.33 

1.5275 

6.11 

7.64 

9.17 

89 

.83 

3.8514 

19.26 

23.11 

15 

.50 

1.5811 

6.32 

7.91 

9.49 

90 

15. 

3.8730 

19.36 

23.24 

16 

.67 

1.6330 

6.53 

8.16 

9.80 

91 

.17 

3.8944 

19.47 

23.37 

17 

.83 

1.6833 

6.73 

8.42 

10.10 

92 

.33 

3.9158 

19.58 

23.49 

18 

3. 

1.7321 

6.93 

8.66 

10.39 

93 

.50 

3.9370 

19.69 

23.62 

19 

.17 

1.7795 

7.12 

8.90 

10.68 

94 

.67 

3.9582 

19.79 

23.75 

20 

.33 

1.8257 

7.30 

9.13 

10.95 

95 

.83 

3.9791 

19.90 

23.87 

21 

.50 

1.8708 

7.48 

9.35 

11.22 

96 

16. 

4. 

20. 

24. 

22 

.67 

1.9149 

7.66 

9.57 

11.49 

97 

.17 

4.0208 

20.10 

24.12 

23 

.83 

1.9579 

7.83 

9.79 

11.75 

98 

.33 

4.0415 

20.21 

24.25 

24 

4. 

2. 

8. 

10. 

12. 

99 

.50 

4.0620 

20.31 

24.37 

25 

.17 

2.0412 

8.16 

10.21 

12.25 

100 

.67 

4.0825 

20.41 

24.49 

26 

.33 

2.0817 

8.33 

10.41 

12.49 

101 

.83 

4.1028 

20.51 

24.62 

27 

.50 

2.1213 

8.49 

10.61 

12.73 

102 

17. 

4.1231 

20.62 

24.74 

28 

.67 

2.1602 

8.64 

10.80 

12.96 

103 

.17 

4.1433 

20.72 

24.86 

29 

.83 

2.1985 

8.79 

10.99 

13.19 

104 

.33 

4.1633 

20.82 

24.98 

30 

5. 

2.2361 

8.94 

11.18 

13.42 

105 

.50 

4.1833 

20.92 

25.10 

31 

.17 

2.2730 

9.09 

11.37 

13.64 

106 

.67 

4.2032 

21.02 

25.22 

32 

.33 

2.3094 

9.24 

11.55 

13.86 

107 

.83 

4.2229 

21.11 

25.34 

33 

.50 

2.3452 

9.38 

11.73 

14.07 

108 

18. 

4.2426 

21.21 

25.46 

34 

.67 

2.3805 

9.52 

11.90 

14.28 

109 

.17 

4.2622 

21.31 

25.57 

35 

.83 

2.4152 

9.66 

12.08 

14.49 

110 

.33 

4.2817 

21.41 

25.69 

36 

6. 

2.4495 

9.80 

12.25 

14.70 

111 

.50 

4.3012 

21.51 

25.81 

37 

.17 

2.4833 

9.93 

12.42 

14.90 

112 

.67 

4.3205 

21.60 

25.92 

38 

.33 

2.5166 

10.07 

12.58 

15.10 

113 

.83 

4.3397 

21.70 

26.04 

39 

.50 

2.5495 

10.20 

12.75 

15.30 

114 

19. 

4.3589 

21.79 

26.15 

40 

.67 

2.5820 

10.53 

12.91 

15.49 

115 

.17 

4.3780 

21.89 

26.27 

41 

.83 

2.6141 

10.46 

13.07 

15.68 

116 

.33 

4.3970 

21.98 

26.38 

42 

7. 

2.6458 

10.58 

13.23 

15.87 

117 

.50 

4.4159 

22.08 

26.50 

43 

.17 

2.6771 

10.71 

13.39 

16.06 

118 

.67 

4.4347 

22.17 

26.61 

44 

.33 

2.7080 

10.83 

13.54 

16.25 

119 

.83 

4.4535 

22.27 

26.72 

45 

.50 

2.7386 

10.95 

13.69 

16.43 

120 

20. 

4.4721 

22.36 

26.83 

46 

.67 

2.7689 

11.08 

13.84 

16.61 

121 

.17 

4.4907 

22.45 

26.94 

47 

.83 

2.7988 

11.20 

13.99 

16.79 

122 

.33 

4.5092 

22.55 

27.06 

48 

8. 

2.8284 

11.31 

14.14 

16.97 

123 

.50 

4.5277 

22.64 

27.17 

49 

.17 

2.8577 

11.43 

14.29 

17.15 

124 

.67 

4.5461 

22.73 

27.28 

50 

.33 

2.8868 

11.55 

14.43 

17.32 

125 

.83 

4.5644 

22.82 

27.39 

51 

.50 

2.9155 

11.66 

14.58 

17.49 

126 

21. 

4.5826 

22.91 

27.50 

52 

.67 

2.9439 

11.78 

14.72 

17.66 

127 

.17 

4.6007 

23.00 

27.60 

53 

.83 

2.9721 

11.89 

14.86 

17.83 

128 

^3 

4.6188 

23.09 

27.71 

54 

9. 

3. 

12. 

15. 

18. 

129 

.50 

4.6368 

23.18 

27.82 

55 

.17 

3.0277 

12.11 

15.14 

18.17 

130 

.67 

4.6547 

23.27 

27.93 

56 

.33 

3.0551 

12.22 

15.28 

18.33 

131 

.83 

4.6726 

23.36 

28.04 

57 

.50 

3.0822 

12.33 

15.41 

18.49 

132 

22. 

4.6904 

23.45 

28.14 

58 

.67 

3.1091 

12.44 

15.55 

18.65 

133 

.17 

4.7081 

23.54 

28.25 

59 

.83 

3.1358 

12.54 

15.68 

18.81 

134 

.33 

4.7258 

23.63 

28.35 

60 

10. 

3.1623 

12.65 

15.81 

18.97 

135 

.50 

4.7434 

23.72 

28.46 

61 

.17 

3.1885 

12.75 

15.94 

19.13 

136 

.67 

4.7610 

23.80 

28.57 

62 

.33 

3.2145 

12.86 

16.07 

19.29 

137 

.83 

4.7784 

23.89 

28.67 

63 

.50 

3.2404 

12.96 

16.20 

19.44 

138 

23. 

4.7958 

23.98 

28.77 

64 

.67 

3.2659 

13.06 

16.33 

19.60 

139 

.17 

4.8132 

24.07 

28.88 

65 

.83 

3.2914 

13.17 

16.46 

19.75 

140 

.33 

4.8305 

24.15 

28.98 

66 

11. 

3.3166 

13.27 

16.58 

19.90 

141 

.50 

4.8477 

24.24 

29.09 

67 

.17 

3.3417 

13.37 

16.71 

20.05 

142 

.67 

4.8648 

24.32 

29.19 

68 

.33 

3.3665 

13.47 

16.83 

20.20 

143 

.83 

4.8819 

24.41 

29.29 

69 

.50 

3.3912 

13.56 

16.96 

20.35 

144 

24. 

4.8990 

24.49 

29.39 

70 

.67 

3.4157 

13.66 

17.08 

20.49 

145 

.17 

4.9160 

24.58 

29.50 

71 

.83 

3.4400 

13.76 

17.20 

20.64 

146 

.33 

4.9329 

24.66 

29.60 

72 

12. 

3.4641 

13.86 

17.32 

20.78 

147 

.50 

4.9497 

24.75 

29.70 

73 

.17 

3.4881 

13.95 

17.44 

20.93 

148 

.67 

4.9666 

24.83 

29.80 

74 

.33 

3.5119 

14.05 

17.56 

21.07 

149 

.83 

4,9833 

24.92 

29.90 

75 

.50 

3.5355 

14.14 

17.68 

21.21 

150 

25. 

5. 

25. 

30. 

130 


WE  A  VING. 


Our  general  comments  on  the  weave-room  will  be  found 
in  our  data  relating  to  the  Northrop  loom,  both  in  this  book 
and  in  our  loom  catalogue  entitled  ''Labor  Saving  Looms." 
The  weave-room  covers  so  many  possible  combinations  in 
machine  and  product,  that  there  are  few  general  statements 
that  may  be  made.  Looms  endeavor  to  perform  so  many 
unmechanical  operations,  that  they  do  not  fall  within  the 
ordinary  class  of  machine,  and  the  shop  trained  mechanic  or 
engineering  expert  would  find  ''fixing''  an  impossible 
immediate  task,  his  varied  experience  in  other  lines  being 
worthless  in  this  special  sphere.  We  are  doing  our  best  to 
eliminate  the  curious  make-shifts  which  have  been  on  duty 
for  so  long  a  time  that  they  receive  an  almost  superstitious 
reverence. 

The  weave-room  presents  the  most  notable  instance  of 
piece  payment  in  the  cotton  mill  system,  and  also  the  chief 
instance  of  personal  responsibility  for  defect  in  product. 
The  help  are  responsible  for  more  strikes  than  in  any  other 
department  outside  the  mule-room.  Any  invention  or 
process  that  reduces  the  number  of  laborers  employed  in  this 
section  is  worthy  of  investigation. 

The  fact  that  the  weaver  must  rely  on  the  efforts  of 
another  laborer,  to  keep  the  machinery  up  to  its  best 
efficiency,  also  complicates  the  problem  of  management. 
American  cotton  mills  are  continually  forced  into  additional 
complications  by  the  requirements  of  more  varied  weaves, 
the  insistence  of  fashion  calling  for  continual  changes  in 
patterns.  The  Jacquard  motion,  the  Dobby  and  various 
other  attachments  are  becoming  common,  and  the  skill  and 
experience  of  the  operative  must  necessarily  assume  a  higher 
plane,  in  conformity  to  new  requirements. 

We  make  no  attempt  to  touch  upon  the  various  points 
involved  in  fancy  weaves,  as  the  limits  of  the  present  volume 
are  too  narrow.  Much  of  the  necessary  education,  and  by 
far  the  better  part,  must  come  from  actual  experience. 
Reference  to  the  problemxS  introduced  by  automatic  weaving 
will  be  found  elsewhere. 


WE  A  VING. 


131 


RULES  AND  INFORMATION  FOR  WEAVERS. 

To  find  the  number  of  yards  of  cloth  to  the  pound  avoirdupois : 

Multiply  its  width  in  inches  by  the  weight  in  grains  of  a 
piece  containing  1  square  inch;  divide  194.44  by  the  product 
and  the  quotient  will  be  the  number  of  yards  to  the  pound. 

Example:    Width  of  cloth,  30  inches;  weight  of  1  square 

194.44 

inch,  1.5  grains.  =  4.32  yards  per  pound. 

30X1.5 

To  find  the  average  number  of  yarn  required  to  produce  cloth  of  aivy 
desired  iveight,  width  and  pick : 

Add  together  the  number  of  picks  per  inch  of  warp  and 
filling;  multiply  their  sum  by  the  yards  of  cloth  per  pound, 
and  this  product  by  the  width  in  inches;  divide  by  840,  and 
the  quotient  will  be  the  average  number  of  yarn  required. 
For  any  increase  in  weight  by  sizing,  proportional  allowance 
must  be  made  in  the  yarn. 

As  the  filling  is  taken  up  in  crossing  the  warp,  and  the 
amount  varies  in  different  goods  this  rule  is  not  exact,  but 
will  approximate  near  enough  to  furnish  a  basis  for  practical 
purposes. 


Weight  of  a  square  yard  of  cloth  ivhen  the  weight  of  a  square  inch  is 
given : 


Weight  of  eq,  in.  ingrains. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

Weight  of  sq.  yd.  in  lbs. 

.1851 

.3703 

.5554 

.7406 

.9257 

1.1109 

1.2960 

To  find  the  size  ofimrp  or  filling  in  any  piece  of  goods: 

Take  8  or  more  threads  of  any  known  number,  say  2  feet 
long,  and  tie  the  ends  together;  this  makes  a  link,  through 
which  draw  the  same  number  of  threads  of  the  same  length 
of  the  unknown  number,  and  twist  the  two  links  thus  made 
as  you  would  twist  a  chain.  A  keen  eye  will  detect  any 
difference  in  the  size  of  the  two  links.  By  adding  to  or 
taking  from  either  link,  they  can  be  varied  in  size  in 
proportion  to  the  number  of  threads  used,  and  brought  to 
nearly  equal  each  other.  When  as  nearly  as  possible  alike, 
the  unknown  number  can  be  approximately  determined  by 
the  proportionate  number  of  strands  in  each  link.  Thus,  if 
28  is  the  known  number,  and  if  7  strands  of  the  unknown 
make  an  equal  size  link  of  8  strands  of  the  known,  the 
number  of  the  unknown  will  be     of  28=24.5. 


132 


WE  A  VING. 


Cotton  cloth  is  sold  on  a  basis  of  a  certain  number  of 
yards  to  the  pound,  with  a  certain  number  of  picks  or 
threads  per  inch  in  warp  and  filling. 

Standard  print  cloths  weigh  seven  yards  to  the  pound, 
have  64  threads  of  warp  and  64  picks  of  filling  to  the  inch, 
and  are  called  64X64 — seven-yard  goods. 

Loom  reeds  are  numbered  by  the  number  of  dents  or 
splits  to  the  inch. 

The  number  of  threads  in  a  warp  divided  by  the  number 
of  the  reed  multiplied  by  the  width  in  inches,  will  give  the 
number  of  threads  in  a  dent. 

Linens  take  their  technical  fineness  from  the  number  of 
hundred  dents  or  splits  in  a  loom  reed  thirty-seven  inches 
wide.  There  are  two  threads  to  each  dent.  The  following 
table,  adapted  from  Barlow's  * 'History  of  Weaving,''  gives 
the  number  of  threads  to  the  inch  for  each  ''count"  of  linen 
goods. 


Hun- 
dreds. 

Threads 
per  inch. 

Hun- 
dreds. 

Threads 
per  inch. 

Hun- 
dreds. 

Threads 
per  inch. 

Hun- 
dreds. 

Threads 
per  inch 

5  00 

27.03 

12  00 

64.86 

19  00 

102.7 

26  00 

140.5 

6  00 

32.43 

13  00 

70.27 

20  00 

108.1 

27  00 

145.9 

7  00 

37.84 

14  00 

75.68 

21  00 

113.5 

28  00 

151.4 

8  00 

43.24 

15  00' 

81.08 

22  00 

118.9 

29  00 

156.8 

9  00 

48.65 

16  00 

86.49 

23  00 

124.3 

30  00 

162.2 

10  00 

54.05 

17  00 

91.89 

24  00 

129.7 

31  00 

167.6 

7  11  00 

59.46 

18  00 

97.30 

25  00 

135.1 

32  00 

173.0 

Weight  of  imrp  or  filling  in  one  square  yard : 

The  tables  on  pages  134-137  give  the  weight  in  decimal 
fractions  of  a  pound  of  the  quantity  of  common  warp  and 
weft  or  filling  in  one  square  yard  of  cloth  for  any  number  of 
yarn,  from  five  to  one  hundred,  and  for  any  number  of  picks 
per  inch  from  twenty  to  one  hundred  and  eighty.  Multiply 
the  weight  given  in  the  tables  by  .525  for  woolen,  1.5  for 
worsted,  2.8  for  linen  and  .525  for  silk,  if  the  number  of  the 
silk  represents  the  number  of  hundred  yards  per  ounce. 

Both  warp  and  filling  take  up  in  weaving,  by  passing 
over  and  under  alternate  threads;  therefore,  one  yard  of 
warp  or  filling  will  fall  a  percentage  short  of  making  a  yard 
of  cloth.  This  percentage  varies  with  each  different  size  of 
yarn  and  number  of  picks  per  inch,  and  for  other  reasons; 
consequently,  the  tables  have  been  made,  giving  the  weights 


WE  A  VING. 


133 


of  straight  yarn,  to  which  must  be  added  the  take-up  or 
shrinkage,  to  obtain  the  precise  weight  of  a  yard  of  cloth. 
It  may  be  safe  to  say  that  from  seven  to  eight  per  cent,  is  an 
average  shrinkage  on  cotton  goods.  On  some  woolen  cloths, 
the  finishing  processes  reduce  the  weight  so  that  the 
calculated  weights  are  as  near  as  may  be  to  the  weight  of 
the  finished  goods. 

Yarn  is  commonly  numbered  before  it  is  slashed  or  sized; 
and  in  estimating  the  weight  of  finished  cloth,  the  quantity 
of  sizing  added  to  the  warp  must  be  known. 

Production  in  yards  of  a  loom  running  constantly  for  ten  hours  : 

The  tables  on  pages  138-139  give  the  number  of  yards  of 
cloth  which  can  be  woven  per  loom  in  one  day  of  ten  hours, 
if  the  loom  runs  constantly.  If  the  quantity  given  in  the 
tables  is  exceeded  in  the  production  of  any  loom,  it  shows 
that  an  error  has  been  made  in  estimating  the  number  of 
picks  per  inch  or  in  the  speed  of  the  loom.  The  same  errors 
might  account  for  a  falling  short  of  the  quantities  in  the 
table;  but  as  no  loom  runs  constantly,  the  difference  between 
the  actual  production  and  the  possible  production,  represents 
the  quantity  that  might  be  woven  during  the  time  that  the 
loom  is  stopped.  The  percentage  of  time  of  stoppage  of  a 
loom  can  be  ascertained  by  dividing  this  difference  by  the 
possible  production. 

To  find  the  yards  per  pound  of  goods,  from  small  samples  of  cloth  : 

Sample  one  square  inch;  divide  5.40123  by  the  weight  in 
grains  of  one  square  inch  of  cloth. 

With  sample  four  square  inches;  divide  21,60492  by  the 
weight  in  grains  of  four  square  inches  of  cloth;  the  quotient 
in  either  case  will  be  the  yards  per  pound  of  36  inch  cloth. 
Other  widths  of  cloth  will  be  in  proportion,  and  rules  for 
samples  of  other  sizes  may  be  worked  out  from  the  rule  for 
one  inch  sample. 

To  find  the  number,  or  count,  of  yarns,  v:arp  or  filling,  from  short 
samples  ;  say  3  inch  lengths : 

Set  the  weight  of  a  delicate  grain  scale  to  .694  grains; 
place  in  pan  3  inch  lengths  of  the  yarn  in  question;  the  number 
of  3  inch  pieces  of  yarn  needed  to  balance  scale  will  be  the 
number  or  count  of  the  yarn. 


The  following  tables  were  prepared  by  Mr.  Elias  Richards 
of  Lynchburg,  Virginia,  formerly  of  New  Orleans,  La. 


134      Pounds  of  Cotton  Warp  or  Filling  in  one  square  yard. 


No.  ol 

Picks  per  inch. 

yarn. 

20 

22 

23 

24k 

AO 

4h 

87 

538 

20 

5 

1  71 
.i  /i 

,lo9 

.19  / 

1  .206 

.214 

.223 

.231 

.240 

.249 

6 

1  J-Q 

.  J-OU 

.157 

.164 

1  .171 

.179 

.186 

.193 

.200 

.207 

7 

!  1 

.135 

.141 

;  .147 

.153 

.159 

.165 

.171 

.178 

8 

i  1 
.  J-U  / 

.123 

j  .129 

.134 

.139 

.145 

.150 

.155 

9 

1  AA 
.iUU 

1  a;^ 
.  J-Uo 

.±1U 

1  .114 

.119 

.124 

.129 

.133 

.138 

10 

.uoo 

AQA 

AQ  i 

.uyi 

.099 

.103 

.107 

.111 

.116 

.120 

.124 

11 

•u  /  o 

Aft  A 
.UOO 

AQA 

.uyu 

,094 

.097 

.101 

.105 

.109 

.113 

12 

n^i 
.u  /  X 

AT^ 

.079 

.086 

.089 

.093 

.096 

.100 

.104 

13 

ARQ 

.uoy 

A7Q 
.U  /  O 

ATA 

.u  /  o 

ATQ 

.u  /  y 

.082 

.086 

.089 

.092 

.096 

14 

A^i  A 

.067 

A7A 
.U  /  U 

ATQ 

.u  /  o 

.077 

.080 

.083 

.086 

.089 

15 

.uo  / 

.UOU 

AAQ 
.UOo 

AAA 
.UOO 

AAQ 

,uoy 

ATI 
.U  /  ± 

.074 

.077 

.080 

.083 

16 

A^R 
.UOO 

.059 

.UOiS 

AAA 
.U04: 

AAT 
.UO  / 

]  .070 

.072 

.075 

.078 

17 

.uou 

,UOo 

.055 

.058 

AAA 
.UOU 

AAQ 
.UOo 

.066 

:  .068 

.071 

.073 

18 

A'^A 
.UOU 

.0o2 

.Ooo 

A^T 
.UO  / 

AAA 
.UOU 

.062 

.064 

.067 

.069 

19 

.U4  / 

.050 

A^O 

.U04: 

.056 

.059 

.061 

.063 

.065 

20 

.Utfco 

AJ.:=; 
.Utto 

.U4:  / 

AAQ 
.U4:y 

A^1 
.UO± 

.054 

.056 

.058 

.060 

.062 

21 

!  riAi 

AAQ 

A/1  n 

AAT 

A/1  Q 

.051 

A?CQ 

1  .Uoo 

.055 

.057 

.059 

22 

1  .uoy 

A/1 1 
.U4:± 

.043 

.045 

.047 

.049 

1  .051 

.053 

.055 

.056 

23 

1  .Uo  / 

AQQ 

.Uoy 

.041 

.043 

.045 

.047 

.048 

.050 

.052 

.054 

24 

'     AQ  A 
.U«30 

AQT 

.Uo  / 

.039 

All 

.043 

.045 

.046 

.048 

.050 

.052 

25 

.UO'± 

.Uoo 

.038 

AQQ 

.Uoy 

.041 

.043 

.045 

.046 

.048 

.050 

26 

.Uoo 

AQ  !^ 

.Uoo 

AQA 

.Uoo 

AQQ 

.Uoo 

.040 

.041 

.043 

.045 

.046 

.048 

27 

,UOZ 

AQQ 

.Uoo 

AQ  :^ 
•Uoo 

AQT 
•  Uo  / 

.038 

'  .040 

.041 

.043 

.044 

.046 

28 

.Uo± 

AQO 

.Uo^ 

.034 

AQ  ^ 

•  Uoo 

.037 

.038 

.040 

.041 

.043 

.044 

29 

.UoU 

AQ1 
.Uo± 

.032 

AQ  1 

.035 

.037 

.038 

.040 

.041 

.043 

30 

noQ 

AQA 
•UoU 

.031 

AQQ 

.Uoo 

.034 

.036 

.037 

.039 

.040 

.041 

31 

noQ 

•  UZo 

AOQ 

r»Q  A 
.UoU 

AQO 
.UOZ 

.033 

AQ  X 

.Uoo 

.036 

.037 

.039 

.040 

32 

.027 

.028 

.029 

.031 

.032 

.033 

1  .035 

.036 

.037 

.039 

33 

.026 

.027 

.029 

.030 

.031 

.032 

.034 

.035 

.036 

.038 

34 

.025 

.026 

.028 

.029 

.030 

.032 

.033 

.034 

.035 

.037 

35 

.024 

.026 

.027 

.028 

.029 

.031 

.032 

.033 

.034 

.036 

36 

.024 

.025 

.026 

.027 

.029 

.030 

.031 

.032 

.033 

.035 

37 

.023 

.024 

.025 

.027 

.028 

.029 

.030 

.031 

.032 

.034 

38 

.023 

.024 

.025 

.026 

.027 

.028 

.029 

.030 

.032 

.033 

39 

.022 

.023 

.024 

.025 

.026 

.027 

.029 

.030 

.031 

.032 

40 

.021 

.022 

.024 

.025 

.026 

.027 

.028 

.029 

.030 

.031 

30 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

o  i 

39 

5 

.2o7 

.Job 

.274 

OSQ 

.291 

QAA 
.OUU 

.o09 

.ol7 

.o2o 

QQ/l 
.004: 

6 

.214 

.221 

.229 

OQ  A 

.zoo 

.243 

O^A 

.Zo  / 

.264 

.271 

OTQ 

.  z  /  y 

7 

.190 

.196 

OAO 

.208 

OOA 

.227 

.233 

OQQ 

.zoy 

8 

.161 

.166 

.171 

.177 

.182 

.187 

.193 

.197 

.204 

.209 

9 

.143 

.148 

.152 

.157 

.162 

.167 

.171 

.176 

.181 

.186 

10 

.129 

.133 

.137 

.141 

.146 

.150 

.154 

.159 

.163 

.167 

11 

.117 

.121 

.125 

.129 

.132 

.136 

.140 

.144 

.148 

.152 

12 

.107 

.111 

.114 

.118 

.121 

.125 

.129 

.132 

.136 

.139 

13 

.099 

.102 

.105 

.109 

.112 

.±lo 

.119 

.122 

.125 

.129 

14 

.092 

.095 

.098 

.101 

.104 

1  AT 

.lU  / 

1  1  A 

.±1U 

.113 

.116 

.119 

15 

.086 

.089 

.091 

.094  j 

.097 

.100 

.103 

.106 

.109 

.111 

16 

.080 

.083 

.086 

AQQ  ' 
.Uc5o  ; 

.091 

.094 

.096 

.099 

.102 

.104 

17 

.076 

.078 

.081 

AQQ 

.086 

r^QQ 

.Uoo 

,091 

.093 

.096 

AQQ 

.uyo 

18 

.071 

.074 

.076 

.079 

.081 

AQQ 

.Uoo 

AQA 

.UoO 

.088 

.090 

.093 

19 

.068 

.070 

.072 

.074 

.077 

ATQ 

.u  /  y 

AQ1 

.Uo± 

.083 

AQA 

.Uoo 

AQ  Q 

.Uoo 

20 

.064 

.066 

.069 

.071 

.073 

.075 

ATT 

.U  /  / 

.079 

AQ1 

.Uo± 

AQ  4 
.Uo4: 

21 

.061 

.063 

.065 

AAT 
.UO  / 

AAQ 

.uoy 

ATI 
.U  /  X 

ATQ 
.U  /  O 

.076 

ATQ 

.U  <  o 

AQA 
.UoU 

22 

.058 

.060 

.062 

.064 

AAA 
.UOO 

AAQ 
.UOo 

.070 

.072 

.074 

ATA 
.U  /  O 

23 

.056 

.058 

.060 

.061 

AAQ 
.UOo 

AA 
.UOO 

.067 

.069 

ATI 

.u  /  ± 

ATQ 
.U  /  O 

24 

.054 

.055 

.057 

AXQ 

.Uoy 

AA1 
.UOl 

AAO 
.UO  J 

.064 

AAA 

.uoo 

AAQ 
.UOo 

ATA 
.U  /  U 

25 

.051 

.053 

A^ 
.Uoo 

.057 

AXQ 

AAA 
.UOU 

.062 

AAQ 
.UOo 

AA  :^ 
.UOO 

AAT 
.UO  / 

26 

.049 

.051 

.053 

.054 

.056 

A^^Q 
.UOo 

.059 

AA1 
.UOl 

AAQ 
.UOo 

AA.l 
.UO* 

27 

.048 

.049 

.051 

.052 

.054 

A^A 
.UOO 

.057 

Ar^Q 

.Uoy 

AAA 
.UOU 

AAO 

28 

.046 

.047 

.049 

.051 

.052 

.054 

.055 

.057 

.058 

.060 

29 

.044 

.046 

.047 

A4  Q 

.050 

.UOZ 

A^Q 
,UOO 

.055 

A.'^A 
.UOO 

A?^Q 
.UOo 

30 

.043 

.044 

.046 

.047 

.049 

A?^  A 
.UOU 

.051 

a;^q 
,uoo 

A!^  ± 

A?iA 
.UOO 

31 

.041 

.043 

.044 

.046 

.047 

.048 

.050 

.051 

.052 

nnA 

.Uo4: 

32 

.040 

.042 

.043 

.044 

.046 

.047 

.048 

,050 

.051 

.052 

33 

.039 

.040 

.042 

.043 

.044 

.045 

.047 

.048 

.049 

.051 

34 

.038 

.039 

.040 

.042 

.043 

.044 

.045 

.047 

.048 

.049 

35 

.037 

.038 

.039 

.040 

.042 

.043 

.044 

.045 

.046 

.048 

36 

.036 

.037 

.038 

.039 

.040 

.042 

.043  1 

.044 

.045 

.046 

37 

.035 

.036 

.037 

.038 

.039 

.041 

.042 

.043 

.044 

.045 

38 

.034 

.035 

.036 

.037 

.038 

.039 

.041 

.042 

.043 

.044 

39 

.033 

.034 

.035 

.036 

.037 

.038 

.040 

.041 

.042 

.043 

40 

.032 

.033 

.034 

.035 

.036 

.037 

.039 

.040 

.041  j 

.042 

Pounds  of 


Cotton  Warp  or  Filling  in  one  square 


yard. 


135 


No.  of 

Picks  per  inch. 

yarn. 

40 

41 

43 

43 

44 

45 

46 

47 

48 

49 

10 

.171 

.176 

.180 

.184 

.189 

.193 

.197 

.201 

.206 

.210 

11 

156 

.160 

!l64 

!l68 

*171 

.175 

.179 

.183 

.187 

'l91 

12 

143 

!l46 

!l50 

.154 

!l57 

!l61 

.164 

.168 

!l71 

!l75 

13 

!l32 

!l35 

!l38 

!l42 

!l45 

!l48 

.152 

.155 

!l58 

!l62 

14 

.122 

!l26 

!l29 

.132 

.135 

!l38 

.141 

.144 

.147 

.150 

15 

!ll4 

!ll7 

.120 

!l23 

!l26 

!l29 

.131 

.134 

!l37 

!l40 

16 

!l07 

!llO 

.112 

.115 

.118 

!l21 

.123 

.126 

.129 

.131 

17 

!l01 

!l03 

!l06 

.108 

.111 

!ll3 

.116 

.118 

.121 

.124 

18 

!095 

!098 

!ioo 

.102 

.105 

.107 

.110 

.112 

.114 

.117 

19 

[oob 

!092 

!095 

.097 

!099 

.102 

.104 

.106 

.108 

.110 

20 

.086 

!088 

!090 

!092 

.094 

!096 

.099 

.101 

.103 

.105 

21 

]082 

!084 

.086 

!088 

.090 

.092 

.094 

.096 

.098 

.100 

22 

.078 

.080 

!082 

!084 

.086 

]088 

.090 

.092 

.094 

.095 

23 

.075 

!076 

!078 

*080 

.082 

!084 

.086 

.088 

!o89 

.091 

24 

!071 

!073 

!075 

!077 

.079 

!080 

.082 

.084 

i086 

.087 

25 

!069 

!070 

*072 

!074 

!075 

!077 

.079 

.081 

!082 

.084 

26 

!o66 

!o68 

!069 

!071 

.073 

[074 

.076 

.077 

.079 

.081 

27 

!063 

!065 

!067 

!068 

!070 

!071 

.073 

.075 

.076 

.078 

28 

!061 

*063 

!064 

]066 

!067 

!069 

.070 

.072 

.073 

.075 

29 

*059 

.061 

.062 

.064 

!065 

!067 

.068 

.069 

!071 

.072 

30 

!057 

!059 

!060 

.061 

!063 

.064 

.066 

.067 

.069 

.070 

31 

!055 

.057 

!058 

.059 

!061 

.062 

.064 

.065 

.066 

.068 

32 

!054 

.055 

.056 

.058 

.059 

.060 

.062 

.063 

.064 

.066 

33 

.052 

.053 

.055 

.056 

.057 

.058 

.060 

.061 

.062 

.064 

34 

.050 

*052 

.053 

!054 

!o55 

!057 

.058 

.059 

!061 

.062 

35 

!049 

!050 

.051 

!053 

.054 

!055 

.056 

.058 

.059 

.060 

36 

!048 

!049 

050 

!051 

.052 

!054 

.055 

.056 

057 

.058 

37 

!046 

!047 

!049 

*.050 

!051 

!052 

.053 

.054 

.056 

.057 

38 

.045 

.046 

.047 

.048 

.050 

.051 

.052 

.053 

.054 

.055 

39 

.044 

.045 

.046 

.047 

.048 

.049 

.051 

.052 

.053 

.054 

40 

.043 

.044 

.046 

.047 

.U4:0 

049 

050 

.UOJL 

41 

.042 

.043 

.044 

.045 

.046 

.047 

'.048 

!049 

.050 

.051 

42 

.041 

.042 

.043 

.044 

.045 

.046 

.047 

.048 

.049 

,050 

43 

.040 

.041 

.042 

.043 

.044 

.045 

.046 

.047 

.048 

.049 

44 

.039 

.040 

.041 

.042 

.043 

.044 

.045 

.046 

.047 

.048 

45 

.038 

.039 

.040 

.041 

.042 

.043 

.044 

.045 

.046 

.047 

50 

51 

52 

63 

54 

65 

56 

57 

58 

69 

10 

.214 

.219 

.223 

.227 

.231 

.236 

.240 

.244 

.249 

.253 

11 

.195 

il99 

.203 

[2O6 

[210 

.214 

.218 

.222 

.226 

.230 

12 

.179 

!l82 

.186 

!l89 

.193 

.196 

.200 

.204 

[207 

.211 

13 

!l65 

.168 

.171 

.175 

!l78 

.181 

.185 

.188 

*191 

.195 

14 

!l53 

.156 

.159 

.162 

!l65 

.168 

.171 

.174 

.178 

.181 

15 

.143 

.146 

.149 

.151 

!l54 

.157 

.160 

.163 

.166 

.169 

16 

.134 

.137 

.139 

.142 

!l45 

.147 

.150 

.153 

*155 

.158 

17 

.126 

.129 

.131 

.134 

!l36 

.139 

.141 

.144 

!l46 

.149 

18 

.119 

.121 

.124 

.126 

!l29 

.131 

.133 

.136 

.138 

.140 

19 

!ll3 

!ll5 

.117 

.120 

!l22 

!l24 

.126 

.129 

!l31 

*133 

20 

*107 

.109 

.111 

.114 

!ll6 

!ll8 

.120 

!l22 

.124 

.126 

21 

.102 

!l04 

.106 

.108 

!llO 

!ll2 

.114 

.116 

.118 

.120 

22 

!097 

!099 

.101 

.103 

!l05 

!l07 

.109 

.111 

[113 

.115 

23 

.093 

.095 

.097 

.099 

!ioi 

!l02 

.104 

.106 

.108' 

.110 

24 

.089 

.091 

.093 

.095 

!096 

!098 

.100 

.102 

.104 

.105 

25 

.086 

.087 

.089 

.091 

.093 

!094 

.096 

.098 

'099 

.101 

26 

.082 

.084 

.086 

.087 

!089 

!091 

.092 

.094 

.096 

097 

27 

.079 

.081 

.083 

.084 

!086 

!087 

.089 

.090 

!092 

!094 

28 

.077 

.078 

.080 

.081 

.083 

!084 

.086 

.087 

.089 

]090 

29 

.074 

.075 

.077 

.078 

!080 

.081 

.083 

.084 

!086 

.087 

30 

.071 

.073 

.074 

.076 

.077 

.079 

.080 

.081 

.083 

084 

31 

.069 

.071 

.072 

.073 

!075 

.076 

.077 

.079 

.080 

.082 

32 

.067 

.068 

.070 

.071 

.072 

.074 

.075 

.076 

.078 

.079 

33 

.065 

.066 

.068 

.069 

!070 

.071 

.073 

.074 

.075 

.077 

34 

.063 

.064 

.066 

!067 

!068 

!o69 

!071 

.072 

.073 

!074 

35 

.061 

.062 

.064 

.065 

!066 

.067 

!069 

.070 

.071 

.072 

36 

.060 

.061 

.062 

.063 

!o64 

!o65 

.067 

.068 

069 

070 

37 

.058 

.059 

.060 

;061 

!063 

!064 

.065 

.066 

'.067 

'.068 

38 

.056 

.058  • 

.059 

.060 

.061 

.062 

.063 

.064 

065 

067 

39 

'.055 

*.056 

!057 

!058 

'.059 

!060 

.062 

'.063 

'.064 

'.065 

40 

.054 

.055 

.056 

.057 

.058 

.059 

.060 

.061 

.062 

.063 

41 

.052 

.053 

.054 

.055 

.056 

.057 

.059 

.060 

.061 

.062 

42 

.051 

.052 

.053 

.054 

.055 

.056 

.057 

.058 

.059 

.060 

43 

.050 

.051 

.052 

.053 

.054 

.055 

.056 

.057 

.058 

.059 

44 

.049 

.050 

.051 

.052 

.053 

.054 

.055 

.056 

.056 

.057 

45 

.048 

.049 

.050 

.050 

.051 

.052 

.053 

.054 

.055 

.056 

136      Pounds  of  Cotton  Warp  or  Filling  in  one  square  yard. 


No.  of 

Picks  per  inch. 

yarn. 

60 

63 

64 

66 

68 

70 

73 

74 

76 

78 

80 

.171 

.177 

.183 

.189 

.194 

.200 

.206 

.211 

.217 

.223 

.229 

16 

.161 

.166 

.171 

.177 

.182 

.187 

.193 

.197 

.204 

.209 

.214 

1  '7 

.151 

.156 

.161 

.166 

.171 

.176 

.182 

.187 

.192 

.197 

.202 

.143 

.148 

.152 

.157 

.162 

.167 

.171 

.176 

.181 

.186 

.190 

1  Q 

xa 

.135 

.140 

.144 

.149 

.153 

.158 

.162 

.167 

.171 

.176 

.180 

30 

.129 

.133 

.137 

.141 

.146 

.150 

.154 

.159 

.163 

.167 

.171 

oi 

.122 

.127 

.131 

.135 

.139 

.143 

.147 

.151 

.155 

.159 

.163 

OO 

.117 

.121 

.125 

.129 

.132 

.136 

.140 

.144 

.148 

.152 

.156 

.112 

.116 

.119 

.123 

.127 

.130 

.134 

.138 

.142 

.145 

.149 

.107 

.111 

.114 

.118 

.121 

.125 

.129 

.132 

.136 

.139 

.143 

.103 

.106 

.110 

.113 

.117 

.120 

.123 

.127 

.130 

.134 

.137 

.099 

.102 

.105 

.109 

.112 

.115 

.119 

.122 

.125 

.129 

.132 

07 
Z  / 

.095 

.098 

.102 

.105 

.108 

.111 

.114 

.117 

.121 

.124 

.127 

.092 

.095 

.098 

.101 

.104 

.107 

.110 

.113 

.116 

.119 

.122 

.089 

.092 

.095 

.098 

.100 

.103 

.106 

.109 

.112 

.115 

.118 

30 

.086 

.089 

.091 

.094 

.097 

.100 

.103 

.106 

.109 

.111 

.114 

Qi 

o± 

.083 

.086 

.088 

.091 

.094 

.097 

.100 

.102 

.105 

.108 

.111 

.080 

.083 

.086 

.088 

.091 

.094 

.096 

.099 

.102 

.104 

.107 

oO 

.078 

.081 

.083 

.086 

.088 

.091 

.094 

.096 

.099 

.101 

.104 

.076 

.078 

.081 

.083 

.086 

.088 

.091 

.093 

.096 

.098 

.101 

oO 

.073 

.076 

.078 

.081 

.083 

.086 

.088 

.091 

.093 

.096 

.098 

36 

.071 

.074 

.076 

.079 

.081 

.083 

.086 

.088 

.090 

.093 

.095 

o  / 

.069 

.072 

.074 

.076 

.079 

.081 

.083 

.086 

.088 

.090 

.093 

38 

.068 

.070 

.072 

.074 

.077 

.079 

.081 

.083 

.086 

.088 

.090 

0«7 

.066 

.068 

.070 

.073 

.075 

.077 

.079 

.081 

.084 

.086 

.088 

40 

.064 

.066 

.069 

.071 

.073 

.075 

.077 

.079 

.081 

.084 

.086 

41 

.063 

.065 

.067 

.069 

.071 

.073 

.075 

.077 

.079 

.082 

.084 

42 

061 

.063 

065 

.067 

.069 

071 

.073 

.076 

.078 

.080 

.082 

43 

;060 

.062 

;064 

;066 

!068 

!070 

!072 

!074 

!076 

!078 

!080 

44 

.058 

.060 

.062 

.064 

.066 

.068 

.070 

.072 

.074 

.076 

.078 

45 

.057 

.059 

.061 

.063 

.065 

.067 

.069 

.070 

.072 

.074 

.076 

46 

.056 

.058 

.060 

.061 

.063 

.065 

.067 

.069 

.071 

.073 

.075 

47 

.055 

.057 

.058 

.060 

.062 

.064 

.066 

.067 

.069 

.071 

.073 

48 

.054 

.055 

.057 

.059 

.061 

.062 

.064 

.066 

.068 

.070 

.071 

49 

.052 

.054 

.056 

.058 

.059 

.061 

.063 

.065 

.066 

.068 

.070 

50 

.051 

.053 

.055 

.057 

.058 

.060 

.062 

.063 

.065 

.067 

.069 

80 

83 

84 

86 

88 

90 

93 

94 

96 

98 

100 

.171 

.176 

.180 

.184 

.189 

.193 

.197 

.201 

.206 

.210 

.214 

21 

.163 

.167 

.171 

.176 

.180 

.184 

.188 

.192 

.196 

.200 

.204 

22 

.156 

.160 

.164 

.168 

.171 

.175 

.179 

.183 

.187 

.191 

.195 

23 

.149 

.153 

.157 

.160 

.164 

.168 

.171 

.175 

.179 

.183 

.186 

24 

.143 

.146 

.150 

.154 

.157 

.161 

.164 

.168 

.171 

.175 

.179 

25 

.137 

.141 

.144 

.147 

.151 

.154 

.158 

.161 

.165 

.168 

.171 

26 

.132 

.135 

.138 

.142 

.145 

.148 

.152 

.155 

.158 

.162 

.165 

27 

.127 

.130 

.133 

.137 

.140 

.143 

.146 

.149 

.152 

.156 

.159 

28 

.122 

.126 

.129 

.132 

.135 

.138 

.141 

.144 

.147 

.150 

.153 

29 

.118 

.121 

.124 

.127 

.130 

.133 

.136 

.139 

.142 

.145 

.148 

.114 

.117 

.120 

.123 

.126 

.129 

.131 

.134 

.137 

.140 

.143 

31 

.111 

.113 

.116 

.119 

.122 

.124 

.127 

.130 

.133 

.135 

.138 

32 

.107 

.110 

.112 

.115 

.118 

.121 

.123 

.126 

.129 

.131 

.134 

33 

.104 

.107 

.109 

.112 

.114 

.117 

.119 

.122 

.125 

.127 

.130 

34 

.101 

.103 

.106 

.108 

.111 

.113 

.116 

.118 

.121 

.124 

.126 

35 

.098 

.100 

.103 

.105 

.108 

.110 

.113 

.115 

.118 

.120 

.122 

36 

.095 

.098 

.100 

.102 

.105 

.107 

.110 

.112 

.114 

.117 

.119 

37 

.093 

.095 

.097 

.100 

.102 

.104 

.107 

.109 

.111 

114 

.116 

38 

.090 

.092 

.095 

.097 

.099 

.102 

.104 

.106 

.108 

.110 

.113 

39 

.088 

.090 

.092 

.095 

.097 

.099 

.101 

.103 

.105 

.107 

.110 

^rk 
*u 

.086 

.088 

.090 

.092 

.094 

.096 

.099 

.101 

.103 

.105 

.107 

41 

.084 

.086 

.088 

.090 

.092 

.094 

.096 

.098 

.100 

.102 

.105 

42 

.082 

.084 

.086 

.088 

.090 

.092 

.094 

.096 

.098 

.100 

.102 

43 

.080 

.082 

.084 

.086 

.088 

.090 

.092 

.094 

.096 

.098 

.100 

44 

.078 

.080 

.082 

.084 

.086 

.088 

.090 

.092 

.094 

.095 

.097 

45 

.076 

.078 

.080 

.082 

.084 

.086 

.088 

.090 

.091 

.093 

.095 

46 

.075 

.076 

.078 

.080 

.082 

.084 

.086 

.088 

.089 

.091 

.093 

47 

.073 

.075 

.077 

.078 

.080 

.082 

.084 

.086 

.088 

.089 

.091 

48 

.071 

.073 

.075 

.077 

.079 

.080 

.082 

.084 

.086 

.087 

.089 

49 

.070 

.072 

.073 

.075 

.077 

.079 

.080 

.082 

.084 

.086 

.087 

50 

.069 

.070 

.072 

.074 

.075 

.077 

.079 

.081 

.082 

.084 

.086 

51 

.067 

.069 

.071 

.072 

.074 

.076 

.077 

.079 

.081 

.082 

.084 

52 

.066 

.068 

.069 

.071 

.073 

.074 

.076 

.077 

.079 

.081 

.082 

53 

.065 

.066 

.068 

.070 

.071 

.073 

.074 

.076 

.078 

.079 

.081 

54 

.063 

.065 

.067 

.068 

.070 

.071 

.073 

.075 

.076 

.078 

.079 

55 

.062 

.064 

.065 

.067 

.069 

.070 

.072 

.073 

.075 

.076 

.078 

Pounds  of  Cotton  Warp  or  Filling  in  one  square  yard.  137 


No.  of 

Picks  per  inch. 

yaru. 

lOO 

102 

104 

106 

108 

110 

113 

116 

118 

130 

30 

.143 

.146 

.149 

.151 

.154 

.157 

.160 

.163 

.166 

.169 

.171 

31 

.138 

.141 

.144 

.147 

.149 

.152 

.155 

.158 

.160 

.163 

.166 

32 

.134 

137 

.139 

.142 

.145 

.147 

.150 

.153 

.155 

.158 

.161 

33 

.130 

.133 

.135 

.138 

.140 

.143 

.145 

.148 

.151 

.153 

.156 

34 

.126 

.129 

.131 

.134 

.136 

.139 

.141 

.144 

.146 

.149 

.151 

35 

!l22 

.125 

.127 

.130 

.132 

!l35 

.137 

.140 

.142 

.144 

.147 

36 

.119 

.121 

124 

.126 

.129 

.131 

.133 

.136 

.138 

.140 

.143 

37 

.116 

.118 

.120 

.123 

.125 

.127 

.130 

.132 

.134 

.137 

.139 

38 

.113 

.115 

.117 

.120 

.122 

.124 

.126 

.129 

.131 

.133 

.135 

39 

.110 

.112 

.114 

.116 

119 

.121 

.123 

.125 

.127 

.130 

.132 

40 

.107 

.109 

.111 

.114 

116 

.118 

.120 

.122 

.124 

.126 

.129 

42 

.102 

.104 

.106 

.108 

110 

.112 

.114 

.116 

.118 

.120 

.122 

44 

.097 

.099 

.101 

.103 

.105 

.107 

.109 

.111 

.113 

.115 

.117 

46 

.093 

.095 

.097 

.099 

.101 

.102 

.104 

.106 

.108 

.110 

.112 

48 

.089 

.091 

.093 

.095 

.096 

.098 

.100 

.102 

.104 

.105 

.107 

50 

.086 

.087 

.089 

.091 

.093 

.094 

.096 

.098 

.099 

.101 

.103 

52 

.082 

084 

086 

087 

089 

.091 

.092 

.094 

096 

097 

099 

54 

!079 

'.081 

!083 

;084 

!086 

!087 

!089 

*.090 

;092 

;094 

!095 

56 

.077 

.078 

.080 

.081 

.083 

.084 

.086 

.087 

.089 

.090 

.092 

58 

.074 

.075 

.077 

.078 

.080 

.081 

.083 

.084 

.086 

.087 

.089 

60 

.071 

.073 

.074 

.076 

.077 

.079 

.080 

.081 

.083 

.084 

.086 

62 

.069 

.071 

.072 

.073 

.075 

.076 

.077 

.079 

.080 

.082 

.083 

64 

.067 

.068 

.070 

.071 

.072 

.074 

.075 

.076 

.078 

.079 

.080 

66 

.065 

.066 

.068 

.069 

.070 

.071 

.073 

.074 

.075 

.077 

.078 

68 

.063 

.064 

.066 

.067 

.068 

.069 

.071 

.072 

.073 

.074 

.076 

70 

.061 

.062 

.064 

.065 

.066 

.067 

.069 

.070 

.071 

.072 

.073 

130 

122 

124 

136 

138 

130 

133 

134 

136 

138 

140 

40 

.129 

.131 

.133 

.135 

.137 

.139 

.141 

.144 

.146 

.148 

.150 

42 

.122 

.124 

.127 

.129 

.131 

.133 

.135 

.137 

.139 

.141 

143 

44 

.117 

.119 

.121 

.123 

.125 

.127 

.129 

.131 

.132 

.134 

.136 

46 

.112 

.114 

.116 

.117 

.119 

.121 

.123 

.125 

.127 

.129 

.130 

48 

.107 

.109 

.111 

.112 

.114 

.116 

.118 

.120 

.121 

.123 

.125 

50 

.103 

.105 

.106 

.108 

.110 

.111 

.113 

.115 

.117 

.118 

.120 

52 

.099 

.101 

.102 

.104 

.105 

.107 

.109 

.110 

.112 

.114 

.115 

54 

.095 

.097 

.098 

.100 

.102 

.103 

.105 

.106 

.108 

109 

.111 

56 

.092 

.093 

.095 

.096 

.098 

.099 

.101 

.103 

.104 

.106 

.107 

58 

.089 

.090 

.092 

.093 

.095 

.096 

.098 

.099 

.100 

.102 

.103 

60 

.086 

.087 

.089 

.090 

.091 

.093 

.094 

.096 

.097 

.099 

.100 

62 

.083 

084 

086 

.087 

088 

.090 

091 

.093 

.094 

095 

.097 

64 

.080 

.082 

!083 

]084 

.086 

'.087 

.'088 

;o9o 

!091 

!092 

.094 

66 

.078 

.079 

.081 

.082 

.083 

.084 

.086 

.087 

.088 

.090 

.091 

68 

.076 

.077 

.078 

.079 

.081 

.082 

.083 

.084 

.086 

.087 

.088 

70 

.073 

.075 

.076 

.077 

.078 

.080 

.081 

.082 

.083 

.084 

.086 

72 

.071 

.073 

.074 

.075 

.076 

.077 

.079 

.080 

.081 

.082 

.083 

74 

.069 

.071 

.072 

.073 

.074 

.075 

.076 

.078 

.079 

.080 

.081 

76 

.068 

.069 

.070 

.071 

.072 

.073 

.074 

.076 

.077 

.078 

.079 

78 

.066 

.067 

.068 

.069 

.070 

.071 

.073 

.074 

.075 

.076 

.077 

80 

.064 

.065 

.066 

.067 

.069 

.070 

.071 

.072 

.073 

.074 

.075 

140 

14:2 

144 

146 

148 

150 

153 

154 

156 

158 

160 

50 

.120 

.122 

.123 

.125 

.127 

.129 

.130 

.132 

.134 

.135 

.137 

52 

115 

117 

.119 

.120 

.122 

.124 

125 

.127 

.129 

130 

.132 

54 

'.111 

".113 

!ll4 

.116 

.117 

!ll9 

!l21 

.*122 

!l24 

".125 

.127 

56 

.107 

.109 

.110 

.112 

.113 

.115 

.116 

.118 

.119 

.121 

.122 

58 

.103 

.105 

.106 

.108 

.109 

.111 

.112 

.114 

.115 

.117 

.118 

60 

.100 

.101 

.103 

.104 

.106 

.107 

.109 

.110 

.111 

.113 

.114 

65 

.092 

.094 

.095 

.096 

.098 

.099 

.100 

.102 

.103 

.104 

.105 

70 

.086 

.087 

.088 

.089 

.091 

.092 

.093 

.094 

.096 

.097 

.098 

75 

.080 

.081 

.082 

.083 

.085 

.086 

.087 

.088 

.089 

.090 

.092 

80 

.075 

.076 

.077 

.078 

.079 

.080 

.081 

.083 

.084 

.085 

.086 

85 

.071 

.072 

073 

.074 

.075 

.076 

.077 

.078 

.079 

.080 

.081 

160 

162 

164 

166 

168 

170 

173 

174 

176 

178 

180 

60 

.114 

.116 

.117 

.119 

.120 

.121 

.123 

.124 

.126 

.127 

.129 

65 

.105 

.106 

.108 

.109 

.111 

.112 

.113 

.115 

.116 

.117 

.119 

70 

.098 

.099 

.100 

.102 

.103 

.104 

.105 

.107 

.108 

.109 

.110 

75 

.092 

.093 

.094 

.095 

.096 

.097 

.098 

.099 

.101 

.102 

.103 

80 

.086 

.087 

.088 

.089 

.090 

.091 

.092 

.093 

.094 

.095 

.096 

85 

.081 

.082 

.083 

.084 

.085 

.086 

.087 

.088 

.089 

090 

.091 

90 

.076 

.077 

.078 

.079 

.080 

.081 

.082 

.083 

.084 

.085 

.086 

95 

1  .072 

.073 

.074 

.075 

.076 

.076 

.077 

.078 

.079 

.080 

.081 

100 

.069 

.070 

.070 

.071 

.072 

.073 

074 

.075 

.075 

.076 

.077 

138 


Yards  of  Cloth  per  loom  per  day  of  ten  hours. 


Picks 
per 
inch 


Picks  per  minute. 


100 

105 

110 

115 

130 

135 

130 

135 

140 

145 

150 

A\J 

83.3 

87.5 

91.7 

95.8 

100.0 

104.2 

108.3 

112.51116.7 

120.8 

125.0 

22 

79^5 

83^3 

87^1 

90.9 

94.7 

98*5 

102.3 

1  AA  1 

109^8 

113*6 

24 

69^4 

72^9 

76.4 

79.9 

83.3 

86.8 

90.3 

93.7 

97.2 

ioo!7 

104^2 

26 

64!l 

67!3 

70I5 

73.7 

76.9 

80.1 

83^3 

OD.O 

89.7 

92^9 

96^2 

28 

59^5 

62^5 

65*5 

68.5 

71.4 

74.4 

77^4 

80.4 

83.3 

86^3 

89^3 

55^6 

58.3 

6l!l 

63^9 

66.7 

69.4 

72.2 

i  o.u 

77.8 

80.6 

83^3 

32 

52!l 

54.7 

57^3 

59.9 

62.5 

65!l 

67.7 

/  VJ.O 

72.9 

75.5 

78.1 

34 

49^0 

51.5 

53.9 

56.4 

58.8 

61.3 

63!7 

ftft  0 
00. 

ftQ  (X 
DO.'D 

7l!l 

73.5 

36 

46^3 

48^6 

50^9 

53^2 

55.6 

57^9 

6o!2 

ftO  K 

D4.0 

67*1 

69^4 

38 

43^9 

46^1 

48*2 

50^4 

52.6 

54.8 

57^0 

Otf.Z 

ft1  A 
D±.4: 

63.6 

65.8 

41^7 

43^7 

45.8 

47^9 

50.0 

52.1 

54^2 

OD.O 

00. 0 

60.4 

62.5 

42 

39!7 

4l!7 

43^7 

45.6 

47.6 

49.6 

51^6 

f^Q  ft 
00. D 

i^r^  ft 

00.0 

57^5 

59.5 

44 

37.9 

39.8 

41^7 

43.6 

45.5 

47^3 

49^2 

o±.± 

f;q  a 
Oo.U 

54*9 

56*.8 

46 

36^2 

38^0 

39*9 

41.7 

43.5 

45*3 

47.1 

AO.  Q 

4:0. y 

OU.  / 

52.5 

54^3 

48 

34^7 

36^5 

38^2 

39.9 

41.7 

43.4 

45^1 

Aft  Q 

AQ  ft 
4:0.0 

50^3 

52.1 

KC\ 
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33^3 

35*0 

36^7 

38.3 

40.0 

41^7 

43^3 

4:0. U 

46.7 

48.3 

50.0 

52 

32*1 

33^7 

35^3 

36.9 

38.5 

40.1 

41.7 

4:0.0 

AA  Q 

46!  5 

48^1 

54 

30*9 

32*4 

34^0 

35.5 

37.0 

38^6 

40.1 

4:1.  / 

4:0. ^ 

44.8 

46.3 

56 

29^8 

31^3 

32I7 

34.2 

35.7 

37.2 

38^7 

AC\  0 

A1  n 

4:±.  / 

43.2 

44^6 

58 

28!7 

30^2 

31.6 

33.0 

34.5 

35.9 

3714 

00.0 

AA  0 

41.7 

43.1 

OU 

27.8 

29^2 

30^6 

31.9 

33^3 

34.7 

36*1 

0  /  .0 

00. y 

40!  3 

41^7 

62 

26^9 

28^2 

29.6 

30.9 

32.3 

33.6 

34^9 

36.3 

Q'7  ft 
0  /  .0 

39.0 

40^3 

64 

26^0 

27.3 

28!6 

29.9 

31^3 

32^6 

33*9 

35.2 

Qft  R 
OD.O 

37.8 

39.1 

66 

25.3 

26.5 

27.8 

29.0 

30!3 

31.6 

32.8 

34.1 

O0.4: 

36.6 

37.9 

68 

24^5 

25.7 

27.0 

28.2 

29.4 

30.6 

3l!9 

33.1 

QA  Q 
04:..O 

35.5 

36^8 

11/ 

23^8 

25.0 

26!2 

27.4 

28.6 

29^8 

31.0 

32.1 

00  Q 
0»j.O 

34.5 

35^7 

79 

23^1 

24^3 

25^5 

26.6 

27^8 

28^9 

30.1 

31.3 

Qf>  A 

33.6 

34.7 

7il 
#  -* 

22.5 

23^6 

24*8 

25.9 

27.0 

28.2 

29.3 

30.4 

Q1 

0±.0 

32.7 

33.8 

21.9 

23^0 

24.1 

25.2 

26.3 

27.4 

28.5 

29.6 

QA  n 
oU.  / 

31.8 

32.9 

7S 

21.4 

22^4 

23^5 

24.6 

25^6 

26^7 

27.8 

28.8 

31.0 

32.1 

oU 

20.8 

21*9 

22.9 

24.0 

25^0 

26.0 

27.1 

28.1 

OQ  0 

30I2 

31.3 

82 

20.3 

21^3 

22^4 

23.4 

24^4 

25^4 

26.4 

27.4 

Oft  F^ 
ZO.O 

29*5 

30^5 

84 

19.8 

2o!8 

21^8 

22.8 

23^8 

24^8 

25.8 

26.8 

0*7  ft 

28.8 

29^8 

86 

19^4 

20^3 

21^3 

22.3 

23^3 

24*2 

25.2 

26.2 

0*7  1 

28.1 

29^1 

88 

18*9 

19^9 

2o!8 

21.8 

22^7 

23.7 

24.6 

25.6 

Oft  f; 

ZD.O 

27^5 

28^4 

18.5 

19^4 

2o!4 

21.3 

22.2 

23I1 

24.1 

25.0 

OF^  Q 

26.  £ 

27^8 

92 

18^1 

19^0 

19.9 

20.8 

21.7 

22!6 

23.6 

24.5 

•>f;  a 

26!s 

27.2 

94 

17.7 

18^6 

19^5 

20.4 

21.3 

22!2 

23.0  23.9 

OA  ft 

25*7 

26!6 

96 

17!4 

18*2 

19^1 

20.0 

20.8 

21.7 

22.6 

23.4 

OA  Q 

25.2 

26.0 

98 

lY.O 

17^9 

18^7 

19.6 

20.4 

21^3 

22.1 

23.0 

OQ  ft 

24.7 

25^5 

xoo 

16!7 

17.5 

18^3 

19.2 

20!  0 

20.8 

21.7 

22.5 

OQ  Q 
ZO.O 

24!  2 

25^0 

102 

16!3 

17.2 

18.0 

18.8 

19^6 

20^4 

21.2 

22.1 

00  Q 

23^7 

24^5 

104 

16.0 

16.8 

17^6 

18.4 

19.2 

2o!o 

20.8 

21.6 

00  A 

23.2 

24^0 

106 

15*7 

16.5 

17*3 

18.1 

18.9 

19^7 

20.4 

21.2 

00  A 

22!8 

23^6 

108 

15.4 

16^2 

17!o 

17.7 

18^5 

19^3 

20.1 

20.8 

01  A 

22.4 

23^1 

1 1  rk 

X  J.U 

15^2 

15^9 

16^7 

17.4 

18.2 

18.9 

19.7 

20.5 

01  0 

22!o 

22.7 

112 

14.9 

lo*.6 

16^4 

17.1 

17.9 

18.6 

19.3 

20.1 

OA  ft 

ZU.o 

21^6 

22.S 

114 

14^6 

15^4 

16^1 

16.8 

17.5 

18.3 

19.0 

19.7 

OA  F^ 

21.2 

21I9 

lift 

14*4 

15!l 

15^8 

16.5 

17.2 

isio 

18.7 

19.4 

20.1 

2o!8 

21^6 

1 4^1 

14^8 

15^5 

16^2 

16.9 

17.7 

18.4 

19.1 

19.8 

20^5 

21.2 

ISO 

13^9 

14*6 

15.3 

16^0 

16.7 

17.4 

18.1 

18.7 

19.4 

20.1 

2o!8 

1  99 

13^7 

14.3 

15,0 

15.7 

16.4 

17.1 

17.8 

18.4 

1  Q  1 

19^8 

20.4 

1  9A 

13^4 

14.1 

14.8 

15.5 

16*1 

16^8 

17.5 

18.1 

1  ft  ft 
±0.0 

19.5 

20.1 

126 

13^2 

13^9 

14^6 

15.2 

15^9 

16!5 

17.2 

17.9 

1  ft  f; 
JLo.O 

19^2 

19.8 

128 

13^0 

13^7 

14^3 

15.0 

15.6 

16*3 

16.9 

17.6 

18.2 

18^9 

19^5 

130 

12^8 

13^5 

14^1 

14^7 

15.4 

16^0 

16.7 

17.3 

17.9 

18^6 

19.2 

134 

12^4 

13!l 

13^7 

14.3 

14  9 

15^5 

16.2 

16.8 

17.4 

18^0 

18  7 

136 

12!3 

12!9 

13*.5 

14!l 

14^7 

15!3 

15.9 

16.5 

17.2 

17^8 

18.4 

140 

11.9 

12.5 

13.1 

13.7 

14.3 

14.9 

15.5 

16.1 

16.7 

17.3 

17.9 

144 

11.6 

12.2 

12.7 

13.3 

13.9 

14.5 

15.0 

15.6 

16.2 

16.8 

17.4 

146 

11.4 

12.0 

12.6 

13.1 

13.7 

14.3 

14.8 

15.4 

16.0 

16.6 

17.1 

150 

11.1 

11.7 

12.2 

12.8 

13.3 

13.9 

14.4 

15.0 

15.6 

16.1 

16.7 

154 

10.8 

11.4 

11.9 

12.4 

13.0 

13.5 

14.1 

14.6 

15.2 

15.7 

16.2 

156 

10.7 

11.2 

11.8 

12.3 

12.8 

13.4 

13.9 

14.4 

15.0 

15.5 

16.0 

160 

10.4 

10.9 

11.5 

12.0 

12.5 

13.0 

13.5 

14.1 

14.6 

15.1 

15.6 

164 

10.2 

10.7 

11.2 

11.7 

12.2 

12.7 

13.2 

13.7 

14.2 

14.7 

15.2 

166 

10.0 

10.5 

11.0 

11.5 

12.0 

12.6 

13.1 

13.5 

14.1 

14.6 

15.1 

170 

9.8 

10.3 

10.8 

11.3 

11.8 

12.3 

12.7 

13.2 

13.7 

14.2 

14.7 

174 

9.6 

10.1 

10.5 

11.0 

11.5 

12.0 

12.5 

12.9 

13.4 

13.9 

14.4 

176 

9.5 

9.9 

10.4 

10.9 

11.4 

11.8 

12.3 

12.8 

13.3 

13.7 

14.2 

180 

9.3 

9.7 

10.2 

10.6 

11.1 

11.6 

12.0 

12.5 

13.0 

13.4 

13.9 

Yards  of  Cloth  per  loom  per  day  of  ten  hours. 


139 


Picks 
per 
inch. 


Picks  per  minute. 


155 

160 

165 

170 

175 

180 

185 

190 

195 

200 

205 

20 

129.2 

133.3  137.5 

141.7 

1  APi  ft 
14:0.0 

1  PiA  A 
lOU.U 

1  PiA  Q 
104.Z 

1  Pift  Q 
lOO.o 

1  AQ  f; 
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loo. 7 

170.C 

22 

117.^ 

121.21125.0 

128.}; 

1  QQ  A 
lOZ.O 

1  QA  A 
100.4 

1  AA  Q 
14U.Z 

1  AQ  Q 

i4o.y 

1  A7  7 
14/.  / 

151.5 

155.3 

24 

107.6 

111  1 
±11.1 

114:. O 

llo.l 

1  Q1  Pi 
IZl.O 

1  QPi  A 
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128  5 

1  Q1  Q 

loi  .y 

1  QPi  A 
100.4 

138. £ 

142.4 

26 

99.4 

1  no  fi 

lU^.D 

105  8 

1  AQ  A 

luy.u 

1  1  Q  Q 
1  IZ.Z 

115  4 

118  € 

1  Q1  ft 
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128.2 

131.4 

28 

92.3 

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1  A1  Q 

104  2 

107  1 

110  1 

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119. C 

122. C 

30 

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97  2 

100  C 

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18.5 

19.0 

19.6 

20.2 

20.8 

21.4 

22.0 

22.6 

23.2 

23.8 

24.4 

144 

17.9 

18.5 

19.1 

19.7 

20.3 

20.8 

21.4 

22.0 

22.6 

23.1 

23.7 

146 

17.7 

18.3 

18.8 

19.4 

20.0 

20.5 

21.1 

21.7 

22.3 

22.8 

23.4 

150 

17.2 

17.8 

18.3 

18.9 

19.4 

20.0 

20.6 

21.1 

21.7 

22.2 

22.8 

154 

16.8 

17.3 

17.9 

18.4 

18.9 

19.5 

20.0 

20.6 

21.1 

21.6 

22.2 

156 

16.6 

17.1 

17.6 

18.2 

18.7 

19.2 

19.8 

20.3 

20.8 

21.4 

21.9 

160 

16.1 

16.7 

17.2 

17.7 

18.2 

18.7 

19.3 

19.8 

20.3 

20.8 

21.4 

164 

15.8 

16.3 

16.8 

17.3 

17.8 

18.3 

18.8 

19.3 

19.8 

20.3 

20.8 

166 

15.6 

16.1 

16.6 

17.1 

17.6 

18.1 

18.6 

19.1 

19.6 

20.1 

20.6 

170 

15.2 

15.7 

16.2 

16.7 

17.2 

17.6 

18.1 

18.6 

19.1 

19.6 

20.1 

174 

14.8 

15.4 

15.8 

16.3 

16.8 

17.2 

17.7 

18.2 

18.7 

19.2 

19.6 

176 

14.7 

15.2 

15.6 

16.1 

16.6 

17.0 

17.5 

18.0 

18.5 

18.9 

19.4 

180 

14.4 

14.8 

15.3 

15.7 

16.2 

16.7 

17.1 

17.6 

18.1 

18.5 

19.0 

140  CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION  TABLES. 


REED  TABLE. 


PLAIN  CLOTH. 

FOR  DRILLS. 

Ends 
Inch. 

Ends 
Cloth. 

Dents 
per 

Two 
Ends  per 
Reed 
Dent. 
Total 

Width 
of 

Spread. 

Dents 
in 

Three 
Ends  per 
Reed 

Total 

Width 
of  Reed 
or  Inches 

Spread. 

32 

1176 

14.67 

576 

39.25 

10.16 

392 

38.58 

O  A 

1248 

15.59 

612 

39.25 

10.79 

416 

38.55 

36 

1320 

16.51 

648 

39.25 

11.42 

440 

38.52 

38 

1392 

17.42 

684 

39.25 

12.06 

464 

38.47 

40 

1464 

18.34 

720 

39.25 

12.69 

488 

38.47 

42 

1536 

19.26 

756 

39.25 

13.33 

512 

38.40 

A  A 

44 

1608 

20.17 

792 

39.25 

13.96 

536 

38.37 

46 

1680 

21.09 

828 

39.25 

14.60 

560 

38.35 

48 

1752 

22.01 

864 

39.25 

15.23 

584 

38.34 

50 

1824 

22.93 

900 

39.25 

15.87 

608 

38.33 

52 

1896 

23.85 

936 

39.25 

16.50 

632 

38.32 

04 

24.77 

972 

39.25 

17.14 

656 

38.27 

56 

2040 

25.68 

1008 

39.25 

17.77 

680 

38.26 

58 

2112 

26.60 

1044 

39.25 

18.41 

704 

38.24 

60 

2184 

27.51 

1080 

39.25 

19.04 

728 

38.23 

62 

2256 

28.43 

1116 

39.25 

19.68 

752 

38.20 

d4 

29.35 

1152 

39.25 

20.32 

776 

38.19 

66 

2400 

30.22 

1188 

39.25 

20.95 

800 

38.18 

68 

2472 

31.18 

1224 

39.25 

21.58 

824 

38.18 

70 

2544 

32.10 

1260 

39.25 

22.22 

848 

38.17 

72 

2616 

33.02 

1296 

39.25 

22.85 

872 

38.16 

/4 

33.94 

1332 

39.25 

23.49 

896 

38.14 

76 

2760 

34.85 

1368 

39.25 

24.12 

920 

38.14 

78 

2832 

35.77 

1404 

39.25 

24.76 

944 

38.13 

80 

2904 

36.69 

1440 

39.25 

25.39 

968 

38.12 

82 

2976 

37.60 

1476 

39.25 

26.03 

992 

38.12 

84 

3048 

38.52 

1512 

39.25 

26.66 

1016 

38.12 

86 

3120 

39.44 

1548 

39.25 

27.30 

1040 

38.09 

88 

3192 

40.35 

1584 

39.25 

27.94 

1064 

38.08 

90 

3264 

41.27 

1620 

39.25 

28.58 

1088 

38.07 

92 

3336 

42.19 

1656 

39.25 

29.22 

1112 

38.06 

94 

3408 

43.11 

1692 

39.25 

29.86 

1136 

38.05 

96 

3480 

44.02 

1728 

39.25 

30.50 

1160 

38.03 

98 

3552 

44.92 

1764 

39.25 

31.14 

1184 

38.02 

100 

3624 

1 

45.85 

1800 

39.25 

( 

31.78 

1208 

38.00 

This  table  is  made  out  for  cloth  36''  wide — all  other  widths 
of  cloth,  proportion  must  be  made.  Twenty-four  ends  are 
allowed  in  every  case  for  selvage. 

For  two  harness  plain,  eyes  on  each  harness  =  Total  dents. 

For  three  harness  drill,  eyes  on  each  harness  =  Total  dents. 


CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION  TABLES.  141 


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142 


CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION. 


The  following  rules  and  tables  are  made  possible  by  the 
system  of  numbering  cotton  yarns  in  this  country.  This 
system  establishes  as  a  unit  : 

One  pound  of  yarn  measuring  840  yards,  or  one  hank,  is 
number  1  ;  and  further  it  provides  that  the  yarn  number,  or 
count,  is  an  indication  of  the  number  of  hanks  in  one  pound 
avoirdupois. 

The  factors  entering  into  cloth  calculations  are  six  in 
number,  viz  : 

Width; 

Sley,  or  warp  threads  per  inch; 
Picks,  or  filling  threads  per  inch; 
Number,  or  count  of  warp  yarn; 
Number,  or  count  of  filling  yarn; 

Weight  of  cloth;  this  weight  may  be  in  yards  per  pound, 
ounces  per  yard,  or  pounds  per  yard  expressed  decimally. 

The  following  tables  are  intended  to  enable  any  person 
having  given  the  width  and  four  of  the  other  elements  of  a 
piece  of  cloth,  to  find  the  sixth  by  a  simple  calculation  ;  also 
to  construct  a  piece  of  cloth  of  any  required  width,  weight, 
sley  and  picks. 

Allowance  has  been  made  in  the  tables  for  contraction  of 
warp  and  filling  in  the  process  of  weaving  and  for  the  sizing 
of  the  warp. 

The  tables  show  print  cloth  28  inches  wide,  and  sheetings, 
drills,  etc.,  32,  36,  40,  54  and  64  inches  wide.  Other  widths 
of  print  cloth  construction  may  be  figured  from  the  28  inch 
column,  and  other  widths  of  sheetings,  etc. ,  from  either  of 
the  other  columns. 

The  examples  illustrating  the  several  rules  are,  for  the 
sake  of  uniformity,  all  based  upon  standard  28  inch  print 
cloth. 

The  makeup  of  such  cloth  is. 


Having  given  the  width,  sley,  picks,  filling  number  and 
weight  in  yards  per  pound,  to  find  the  warp  number  required: 


Width 
Sley 


28  inches. 


Picks  = 
Warp  number  = 
Filling  number  = 
Weight  = 
1  yard  weighs 


64 
64 

28^ 
36^ 


7  yards  per  lb. 
.142857  lbs. 


FIRST. 


CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION. 


143 


Rule.  Divide  the  constant  for  sley  by  the  weight  of 
warp  in  one  yard  in  pounds ;  the  quotient  will  be  the  warp 
number. 

Example. 

Opposite  64,  the  number  of  picks  in  28  inch  column,  find 
constant  for  picks  —  2.25.  Divide  2.25  by  36,  the  filling 
number  =  .0625,  the  weight  of  filling  in  decimal  fraction  of 
one  pound. 

From  the  weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth         —  .142857 
Subtract  the  weight  of  filling  in  one  yard    =  .06250 

Leaves  the  weight  of  warp  in  one  yard       =  .  080357 
Opposite  the  sley  in  28  inch  column  find  the  constant  for 
sley      2.25.    Divide  2.25  by  .080357,  the  weight  of  warp, 
and  the  quotient  is  28  or  the  warp  yarn  number  required. 

SECOND. 

Having  given  the  width,  sley,  picks,  warp  number  and 
weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth,  to  find  the  filling  number 
required  : 

Rule.  Divide  the  constant  for  picks  by  the  weight  of 
filling  in  pounds  in  one  yard ;  the  quotient  will  be  the  filling 
number. 

Example. 

Opposite  64  picks  in  28  inch  column  find  constant  for  sley 
=  2.25.  Divide  2.25  by  .0625,  the  weight  of  filling  in  one 
yard  of  cloth  as  found  in  first  problem  and  the  quotient  is  36, 
the  filling  number. 

THIRD. 

Having  given  the  width,  picks,  warp  number,  filling 
number  and  weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth,  to  find  the  sley  : 

Rule.  Divide  the  constant  for  picks  by  the  filling 
number  to  find  the  weight  of  filling  in  one  yard  of  cloth. 
From  the  weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth  deduct  the  weight  of 
filling ;  the  remainder  equals  weight  of  warp  in  one  yard ; 
multiply  this  weight  by  the  warp  number  to  find  the  sley 
constant.  Opposite  the  sley  constant  in  28  inch  column  will 
be  the  sley  required. 

Example. 

Opposite  64  the  number  of  picks  in  28  inch  column  find 
pick  constant  2.25.  Divide  by  36  the  filling  number  equals 
.0625  the  weight  of  filling.    From  the  weight  of  one  yard  of 


144 


CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION. 


cloth  .142857  subtract  ,0625,  the  weight  of  filling  in  one  yard. 
The  remainder  .080357  equals  weight  of  warp  in  one  yard  ; 
multiply  by  28,  the  warp  number,  gives  the  sley  constant 
2.25.  Opposite  2.25  in  28  inch  column  is  found  64,  the  sley 
required. 

FOURTH. 

Given  the  width,  sley,  warp  number,  filling  number  and 
weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth,  to  find  the  required  picks  : 

Rule.  Divide  the  sley  constant  by  the  warp  number  to 
obtain  the  weight  of  warp  in  one  yard  of  cloth.  Substract 
weight  of  warp  from  weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth  to  obtain 
weight  of  filling  ;  multiply  weight  of  filling  by  filling  number 
to  obtain  constant  for  picks.  Opposite  constant  for  picks 
will  be  found  the  required  number  of  picks. 

Example. 

Opposite  64  the  sley  under  28  inch  find  sley  constant 
2.25.  Divided  by  28,  the  warp  number,  equals  .080357  the 
weight  of  warp  in  one  yard  of  cloth. 

From  total  weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth  .142857 
Subtract  weight  of  warp  .080357 

Leaves  weight  of  filling  .0625 

Multiply  by  the  filling  number  36  equals  2.25  the  filling 
constant.  Opposite  2.25  in  28  inch  column  is  64,  the  number 
of  picks  required. 

FIFTH. 

Given  the  width,  sley,  picks,  warp  number,  and  filling 
number,  to  find  the  w^eight  of  one  yard  of  cloth,  the  weight 
each  of  warp  and  filling  and  the  number  of  yards  in  one 
pound  of  cloth : 

Rule.  Divide  the  sley  constant  by  the  warp  number  to 
find  the  weight  of  warp. 

Divide  the  filling  constant  by  the  filling  number  to  find  the 
weight  of  filling.  Add  the  two  for  total  weight  of  one  yard. 
Divide  one  pound  by  the  fractional  weight  of  one  yard  and 
the  quotient  is  the  number  of  yards  per  pound. 

Example. 

Opposite  the  sley  64  in  28  inch  column,  find  the  sley 
constant  2.25;  divided  by  warp  number  28  gives  weight  of 
warp  .080357. 

Opposite  the  number  of  picks  64  find  pick  constant  2.25. 


CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION. 


145 


Divided  by  the  filling  number  equals  weight  of  filling  in  one 
yard  of  cloth  .0625. 

Add    .080357,  weight  of  warp  to 
.0625,     weight  of  filling 

equals   .142857,  weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth. 

One  pound  divided  by  weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth  .142857, 
equals  7,  the  number  of  yards  to  the  pound. 

To  find  the  weight  of  one  yard  in  ounces  multiply  .142857, 
the  weight  of  one  yard  in  pounds,  by  16  the  number  of  ounces 
in  one  pound,  equals  2.285712  ounces  in  one  yard,  or  divide  16 
by  7,  the  yards  per  pound,  gives  the  same  result. 

SIXTH. 

Given  the  width,  sley  and  warp  number,  to  find  the 
weight  of  warp  yarn  in  one  yard  of  cloth  : 

Rule.  Divide  the  constant  for  sley  by  the  warp  number 
and  the  quotient  will  be  the  weight  of  warp  in  one  yard  of 
cloth  expressed  in  decimal  fraction  of  one  pound. 

Example. 

Opposite  the  sley  64  find  the  sley  constant  2.25.  Divided 
by  28,  the  warp  number,  equals  .080357  lbs.,  the  weight  of 
warp  in  one  yard  of  cloth. 

SEVENTH. 

Given  the  width,  picks  and  filling  number,  to  find  the 
weight  of  filling  in  one  yard  of  cloth  : 

Rule.  Divide  the  constant  for  picks  by  the  filling 
number  and  the  quotient  will  be  the  weight  of  filling  in  one 
yard  of  cloth  expressed  in  decimal  fraction  of  one  pound. 

Example. 

Opposite  the  picks  64  find  the  constant  for  picks  2.25. 
Divided  by  36,  the  filling  number,  equals  .0625  lbs.,  the 
weight  of  filling  in  one  yard  of  cloth. 

EIGHTH. 

Given  the  weight  of  both  warp  and  filling  in  one  yard  of 
cloth  as  found  by  problems  six  and  seven,  to  find  the  weight 
of  one  yard  of  cloth  : 

Rule.  Add  the  weight  of  warp  to  the  weight  of  filling 
and  their  sum  equals  the  weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth.  One 
divided  by  this  sum  equals  the  number  of  yards  to  the  pound. 


146  CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION, 

Example. 

Weight  of  warp,  problem  six,  .080357 
Weight  of  filling,  problem  seven,  .0625 

Weight  of  one  yard  of  cloth,  .142857 

1. 

 =  7  the  number  of  yards  per  pound. 

.142857 

NINTH. 

Given  the  width,  sley  and  weight  of  warp  yarn,  to  find 
the  number  : 

Rule.  Divide  the  sley  constant  by  the  weight  of  warp 
in  one  yard  of  cloth  ;  the  quotient  will  be  the  warp  number. 

Example. 

Opposite  the  sley  64  find  sley  constant  2.25.  Divide  2.25 
by  weight  of  warp  yarn  in  one  yard,  .080357  lbs.,  equals  28, 
the  number. 

TENTH. 

Given  the  width,  picks  and  weight  of  filling  yarn,  to  find 
the  number. 

Rule.  Divide  the  constant  for  filling  by  the  weight  of 
filling  in  one  yard  of  cloth  ;  the  quotient  will  be  the  filling 
number. 

Example. 

Opposite  the  picks  64  find  constant  for  picks,  2.25. 
Divide  2.25  by  weight  of  filling  in  one  yard  of  cloth  .0625  lbs., 
equals  36,  the  number. 

ELEVENTH. 

Given  the  width,  weight  of  warp  and  warp  number,  to 
find  the  sley  required. 

Rule.  Multiply  the  weight  of  warp  yarn  in  one  yard  of 
cloth  by  the  warp  number ;  the  product  will  be  the  sley 
constant.  Opposite  the  sley  constant  the  actual  sley  required 
will  be  found  in  the  proper  column^ 

Example. 

Width  28  inches;  .080357  lbs,  the  weight  of  warp 
multiplied  by  28,  the  number  gives  2.25  the  sley  constant. 
Opposite  2.25  in  28  inch  column  is  64  the  required  sley. 

TWELFTH. 

Given  the  width,  weight  of  filling  yarn  and  filling  number, 
to  find  the  picks  per  inch. 

Rule.    Multiply  the  weight  of  filling  yarn  by  the  filling 


CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION. 


147 


number ;  the  product  will  be  the  constant  for  filling. 
Opposite  filling  constant  the  number  of  picks  required  will  be 
found  in  the  proper  column. 

Example. 

Width  28  inches ;  weight  of  filling  yarn  .0625  lbs. 
multiplied  by  36,  the  filling  number,  equals  2.25  the  filling 
constant.  Opposite  2.25  in  28  inch  column  is  64,  the  number 
of  picks  per  inch. 

THIRTEENTH. 
Given  the  width,  sley,  picks  and  weight,  to  find  the 
average  number  of  yarn. 

Rule.  Add  the  sley  constant  to  the  pick  constant  and 
multiply  by  the  number  of  yards  per  pound. 

Example. 

Opposite  sley  in  28  inch  column  find  sley  constant  2.25. 
Opposite  picks  per  inch  find  pick  constant  2.25  ;  these  added 
equal  4.50.  Multiply  by  7  the  number  of  yards  per  pound 
equals  31.5,  the  average  number  required. 

SUMMARY. 

1.  Sley  constant  means  the  figure  found  in  table  under 
the  given  width  and  opposite  the  actual  sley. 

2.  Filling  constant  means  the  figure  found  in  table 
under  the  given  width  and  opposite  the  actual  picks  per  inch. 

3.  Sley  constant  divided  by  warp  yarn  number  equals 
weight  of  warp  per  yard  in  pounds. 

4.  Pick  constant  divided  by  filling  yarn  number  equals 
weight  of  filling  per  yard  in  pounds. 

5.  Sley  constant  divided  by  weight  of  warp  in  one  yard 
of  cloth  equals  warp  yarn  number. 

6.  Pick  constant  divided  by  weight  of  filling  in  one  yard 
of  cloth  equals  filling  yarn  number. 

7.  Warp  yarn  number  multiplied  by  weight  of  warp  in 
one  yard  equals  sley  constant. 

8.  Filling  yarn  number  multiplied  by  weight  of  filling 
in  one  yard  equals  filling  constant. 

9.  Warp  constant  plus  filling  constant  multiplied  by 
yards  per  pound  equals  average  numbers  of  yarn  in  cloth. 

10.  As  stated  at  the  opening  of  this  article,  allowances 
for  contraction  of  warp  and  filling  and  for  sizing  of  the  warp 
are  covered  by  the  figures  in  the  tables  of  sley  and  pick 
constants. 


148 


CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION, 


CONSTANTS  FOR  SLEY  OR  PICKS,  WITH  ALLOWANCES  MADE 
FOR  CONTRACTION  AND  SIZING. 


Sley 

OR 

Picks. 

Print  Cloth, 
Etc. 

Sheetings,  Shirtings,  Drills,  Twills,  Etc. 

28  Inch 

32  Inch 

36  Inch 

40  Inch 

54  Inch 

64  Inch 

1 

.03516 

.04280 

.04815 

.0535 

.07222 

.08560 

2 

.07031 

.08560 

.09630 

.1070 

. 14445 

.17120 

3 

.10547 

.12840 

.14445 

.1605 

.21667 

.25680 

4 

.14062 

.17120 

.19260 

.2140 

.28890 

.34240 

5 

.17578 

.21400 

.24075 

.2675 

.36112 

.42800 

6 

.21094 

.25680 

.28890 

.3210 

.43335 

.51360 

7 

.24609 

.29960 

.33705 

.3745 

.50557 

.59920 

8 

.28125 

.34240 

.38520 

.4280 

.57780 

.68480 

9 

.31641 

.38520 

.43335 

.4815 

.65002 

.77040 

10 

.35156 

.42800 

.48150 

.5350 

.72225 

.85600 

11 

.38672 

.47080 

.52965 

.5885 

.79447 

.94160 

12 

.42187 

.51360 

.57780 

.6420 

.86670 

1.02720 

13 

.45703 

.55640 

.62595 

.6955 

.93892 

1.11280 

14 

.49219 

.59920 

.67410 

.7490 

1.01115 

1.19840 

15 

.52734 

.64200 

.72225 

.8025 

1.08337 

1.28400 

16 

.56250 

.68480 

.77040 

.8560 

1.15560 

1.36960 

17 

.59766 

.72760 

.81855 

.9095 

1.22782 

1.45520 

18 

.63281 

.77040 

.86670 

.9630 

1.30005 

1.54080 

19 

.66797 

.81320 

.91485 

1.0165 

1.37227 

1.62640 

20 

.70312 

.85600 

.96300 

1.0700 

1.44450 

1.71200 

21 

.73828 

,89880 

1.01115 

1.1235 

1.51672 

1.79760 

22 

.77344 

.94160 

1.05930 

1.1770 

1.58895 

1.88320 

23 

.80859 

.98440 

1.10745 

1.2305 

1.66117 

1.96880 

24 

.84375 

1.02720 

1.15560 

1.2840 

1.73340 

2.05440 

25 

.87890 

1.07000 

1.20375 

1.3375 

1.80562 

2. 14000 

26 

.91406 

1.11280 

1.25190 

1.3910 

1.87785 

2.22560 

27 

.94922 

1.15560 

1.30005 

1.4445 

1.95007 

2.31120 

28 

.98437 

1.19840 

1.34820 

1.4980 

2.02230 

2.39680 

29 

1.01953 

1.24120 

1.39635 

1.5515 

2.09452 

2.48240 

30 

1.05469 

1.28400 

1.44450 

1.6050 

2.16675 

2.56800 

31 

1.08984 

1.32680 

1.49265 

1.6585 

2.23897 

2.65360 

32 

1.12500 

1.36960 

1.54080 

1.7120 

2.31120 

2.73920 

33 

1.16016 

1.41240 

1.58895 

1.7655 

2.38342 

2.82480 

34 

1.19531 

1.45520 

1.63710 

1.8190 

2.45565 

2.91040 

35 

1.23047 

1.49800 

1.68525 

1.8725 

2.52787 

2.99600 

36 

1.26562 

1.54080 

1.73340 

1.9260 

2.60010 

3.08160 

37 

1.30078 

1.58360 

1.78155 

1.9795 

2.67232 

3.16720 

38 

1.33593 

1.62640 

1.82970 

2.0330 

2.74455 

3.25280 

39 

1.37109 

1.66920 

1.87785 

2  0865 

2.81677 

3.33840 

40 

1.40625 

1.71200 

1.92600 

2.1400 

2.88900 

3.42400 

41 

1.44141 

11.75480 

1.97415 

2.1935 

2.96122 

3.50960 

42 

1.47656 

1.79760 

2.02230 

2.2470 

3.03345 

3.59520 

43 

1.51172 

1.84040 

2.07045 

2.3005 

3.10567 

3.68080 

44 

1.54687 

\  1.88320 

2.11860 

2.3540 

3.17790 

3.76640 

45 

1.58203 

1.92600 

2.16675 

2.4075 

3.25012 

3.85200 

46 

1.61718 

1.96880 

2.21490 

2.4610 

3.32235 

3.93760 

47 

1.65234 

2.01160 

2.26305 

2.5145 

3.39457 

4.02320 

48 

1.68750 

2.05440 

2.31120 

2.5680 

3.46680 

4.10880 

49 

1.72265 

2.09720 

2.35935 

2.6215 

3.53902 

4.19440 

50 

1.75781 

2.14000 

2.40750 

2.6750 

3.61125 

4.28000 

CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION, 


149 


CONSTANTS  FOR  SLEY  OR  PICKS,  WITH  ALLOWANCES  MADE 
FOR  CONTRACTION  AND  SIZING. 


Sley 

i;  Priut  Cioth, 
Etc. 

Sheetings,  Shirtings,  Drills.  Twills,  Etc. 

OR 

Picks. 

28  Inch 

32  Inch 

36  Inch 

40  Inch 

54  Inch 

64  Inch 

51 

1.79^97 

i 

12.18280 

2.45565 

2.7285 

3.68347 

4.36560 

52 

1.8Z8iZ 

i  2.22560 

2.50380 

2.7820 

3.75570 

4.45120 

53 

i.8DoZ8 

2.26840 

2.55195 

2.8355 

3.82792 

4.53680 

54 

1.89843 

2.31120 

2.60010 

2.8890 

3.90015 

4.62240 

55 

1  AOOCTA 

2.35400 

2.64825 

2.9425 

3.97237 

4.70800 

56 

l.yb8 <o 

2.39680 

2.69640 

2.9960 

4.04460 

4.79360 

57 

O  AAOOA 

2.43960 

2.74455 

3.0495 

4.11682 

4.87920 

58 

O  AOOA£? 

2.48240 

2.79270 

3.1030 

4.18905 

4.96480 

59 

2.52520 

2.84085 

3.1565 

4.26127 

5.05040 

60 

2.56800 

2.88900 

3.2100 

4.33350 

5.13600 

61 

O  1  /!  /I  CO 

Z.  i44oo 

2.61080 

2.93715 

3.2635 

4.40572 

5.22160 

62 

Z.i  <yb8 

2.65360 

2.98530 

3.3170 

4.47795 

5.30720 

63 

Z.Zi484 

2.69640 

3.03345 

3.3705 

4.55017 

5.39280 

64 

O  OCAAA 

2.73920 

3.08160 

3.4240 

4.62240 

5.47840 

65 

o  ood  c 

2.78200 

3.12975 

3.4775 

4.69462 

5.56400 

66 

O  00A01 

2.82480 

3.17790 

3.5310 

4.76685 

5.64960 

O  Orf^/1'7 

Z.  ooo4 / 

2.86760 

3.22605 

3.5845 

4.83907 

5.73520 

68 

O  00A£?O 

2.91040 

3.27420 

3.6380 

4.91130 

5.82080 

by 

O  /lOFCTO 

Z.4ZDi8 

2.95320 

3.32235 

3.6915 

4.98352 

5.90640 

70 

O  /l£!AOO 

Z.  4bUyo 

2.99600 

3.37050 

3.7450 

5.05575 

5.99200 

71 

O  /10£JA0 

z.4ybuy 

3.03880 

3.41865 

a  7985 

5.12797 

6.07760 

Z.ooiZo 

3.08160 

3.46680 

3.8520 

5.20020 

6.16320 

16 

Z.obo4U 

3.12440 

3.51495 

3.9055 

5.27242 

6.24880 

74 

O  CA1  fC£J 

Z.bUiob 

3.16720 

3.56310 

3.9590 

5.34465 

6.33440 

75 

Z.bob/Z 

3.21000 

3.61125 

4.0125 

5.41687 

6.42000 

net 

7d 

Z.D/lo/ 

3.25280 

3.65940 

4.0660 

5.48910 

6.50560 

17 

O  TATAO 

Z.  /U/lfo 

3.29560 

3.70755 

4.1195 

5.56132 

6.59120 

no 

78 

z.  /4Ziy 

3.33840 

3.75570 

4.1730 

5.63355 

6.67680 

3.38120 

3.80385 

4.2265 

5.70577 

6.76240 

OA 

80 

O  01 OCA 

Z.oiZoU 

3.42400 

3.85200 

4.2800 

5.77800 

6.84800 

81 

Z.O4/O0 

3.46680 

3.90015 

4.3335 

5.85022 

6.93360 

8Z 

O  QQQQ1 

Z.  ooZ8i 

3.50960 

3.94830 

4.3870 

5.92245 

7.01920 

oo 
oo 

z.yi  i\)  ( 

3.55240 

3.99645 

4.4405 

5.99467 

7.10480 

O  A 

84 

z.yooiz 

3.59520 

4.04460 

4.4940 

6.06690 

7.19040 

OK 

8o 

z.yooZo 

3.63800 

4.09275 

4.5475 

6.13912 

7.27600 

QCi 
OD 

Q  AOQ/IO 

o.UZo4o 

3.68080 

4.14090 

4.6010 

6.21135 

7.36160 

o  / 

o.  uoooy 

3.72360 

4.18905 

4.6545 

6.28357 

7.44720 

oo 
88 

3.76640 

4.23720 

4.7080 

6.35580 

7.53280 

oo 

8y 

Q  1 OQQA 

3.80920 

4.28535 

4.7615 

6.42802 

7.61840 

OA 

yu 

Q  1<:;/1A<? 
o.io4UD 

3.85200 

4.33350 

4.8150 

6.50025 

7.70400 

91 

3.19922 

3.89480 

4.38165 

4.8685 

6.57247 

7.78960 

92 

3.23437 

3.93760 

4.42980 

4.9220 

6.64470 

7.87520 

93 

3.26953 

3.98040 

4.47795 

4.9755 

6.71692 

7.96080 

94 

3.30468 

4.02320 

4.52610 

5.0290 

6.78915 

8.04640 

95 

3.33984 

4.06600 

4.57425 

5.0825  . 

6.86137 

8.13200 

96 

3.37500 

4.10880 

4.62240 

5.1360 

6.93360 

8.21760 

97 

3.41016 

4.15160 

4.67055 

5.1895 

7.00582 

8.30320 

98 

3.44531 

4.19440 

4.71870 

5.2430 

7.07805 

8.38880 

99 

3.48047 

4.23720 

4.76685 

5.2965 

7.15027 

8.47440 

100 

3.51562 

4.28000 

4.81500 

5.3500 

7.22250 

8.56000 

150 


CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION. 


Mills  running  on  specialties  where  there  are  frequent 
changes  in  cloth  construction,  sometimes  have  parties  in 
charge  who  are  familiar  with  the  slide  rule  and  who  prefer  to 
figure  such  problems  with  this  piece  of  apparatus.  In  such 
cases  the  special  cloth  calculating  slide  rule  patented  by  Mr. 
Arnold  Schaer  of  Warren,  Rhode  Island,  will  be  found 
helpful. 


LOOM  PRODUCTION. 

To  find  the  production  of  a  loom  running  at  any  number 
of  picks  per  minute  for  a  day  of  ten  hours,  or  for  a  week  of 
sixty  hours,  weaving  cloth  of  any  number  of  picks  per  inch : 

Rule.  Multiply  the  number  of  picks  per  minute  by  100 
and  divide  by  the  number  of  picks  per  inch  multiplied  by  6; 
the  quotient  will  be  the  yards  per  ten  hours  theoretical 
product,  without  any  allowance  for  stops. 

Example. 

Print  cloth  loom  190  picks  per  minute,  64  picks  per  inch. 
95  25 

m  X  2375 

 =  =  49.47  —  yards  per  10  hours. 

X    ^  48 

n  3 

16 

For  a  week  of  60  hours. 

Rule.  Multiply  the  number  of  picks  per  minute  by  100 
and  divide  by  the  number  of  picks  per  inch. 

Example. 

Conditions  as  before. 
95  25 
m  X  m  2375 

  =  296.875  =  yards  per  60  hours. 

H  8 

8 

With  Northrop  Automatic  Looms  the  product  is  much 
nearer  the  theoretical  or  one  hundred  per  cent,  efficiency  than 
with  common  looms,  which  must  stop  every  time  the  filling 
runs  out  or  breaks.  By  operating  Northrop  looms  without 
weavers  through  the  noon  hour  and  a  certain  amount  of  time 
at  morning  or  night,  the  percentage  of  product  may  be 


CLOTH  CONSTRUCTION, 


151 


increased  to  considerably  more  than  one  hundred,  the  basis  of 
one  hundred  per  cent,  being  in  all  cases  the  schedule  mill 
hours  ;  1.  e.  bell  hours. 

After  establishing  a  standard  as  a  proper  percentage  to 
attain,  the  rule  can  be  changed  in  both  the  above  cases  to 
conform  to  the  individual  mill  requirements  by  using  the 
standard  percentage,  as  a  whole  number,  instead  of  100,  in 
the  numerator. 

Example. 
Print  cloth  as 
95 

m  X  85 

64  X  ^ 
3 

Proof. 

Yards  based  on  100  per  cent  =  49.47 
Less  15  per  cent  —  7.42 

85  per  cent  =  42.05 

Rule.  Multiply  the  number  of  picks  per  minute  by  the 
standard  percentage  required  and  divide  by  the  number  of 
picks  per  inch  multiplied  by  6.  The  quotient  will  be  the 
production  in  yards  per  day  of  ten  hours,  with  allowance 
made  for  loss  by  stops  or  gain  by  running  automatic  looms 
more  than  bell  hours  without  weavers. 

For  weekly  production: 

Multiply  the  number  of  picks  per  minute  by  the  standard 
percentage  required  and  divide  by  the  number  of  picks  per 
inch. 

Example. 

Print   cloth  as   before ;    Northrop    automatic  looms 

standard,  say  106  per  cent.  ^ 
95  53 

m  X  m  5035 

 =  =  314.68  =  yards  in  60  hours. 

H  16 

16 
Proof. 

Yards  per  60  hours  100  per  cent,  basis  ^  296.87 
Add  6  per  cent.  =  17.81 


before  ;  standard,  say  85  per  cent. 
8075 

 =  42.05  =  yards  per  10  hours. 

192 


106  per  cent,  as  before 


=  314.68 


152 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE. 


CLOTH  STRUCTURAL  TABLES. 

To  make  a  cloth  of  heavier  or  lighter  weight,  coarser  or 
finer  pick  or  sley,  or  coarser  or  finer  yarns  than  a  given  cloth, 
while  retaining  all  the  essential  qualities  of  the  given  cloth  ; 
or,  to  make  a  range  of  cloths  of  various  sleys,  picks,  warp 
and  filling  numbers,  all  of  which  shall  have  the  same  essential 
structural  qualities  as  the  given  cloth  and  appear  as  the 
given  cloth  would  if  magnified  or  diminished. 

These  tables  are  based  upon  the  fact  that  yarns  are  in 
proportion  to  each  other  as  the  squares  of  their  diameters. 

Murphy  in  'The  Art  of  Weaving,''  7th  edition,  1842, 
page  428,  says  :    *'If  a  piece  of  cloth  is  woven  in  any  sett  of 
reed,  as  for  instance,  a  1200  on  37  inches,  and  that  the 
diameters  of  the  warp  threads  and  the  small  spaces  between 
them  are  of  exactly  the  same  size.    Then  if  we  have  another 
piece  of  cloth  of  the  same  texture,  woven,  for  example,  in  an 
1800  reed,  the  diameters  of  the  warp  threads  being  also  equal 
to  the  intervening  spaces,  then  these  two  sizes  of  cloth  are 
said  to  be  of  the  same  fabric,  although  the  one  is  a  third 
fi^ner  than  the  other ;  so  that  when  the  diameters  of  the 
threads    are    greater    than    the    spaces,    the    fabric  is 
proportionally  stouter,   and  the  reverse  when   they  are 
smaller.    Now  the  method  of  determining  the  several  grists 
of  yarn  that  will  preserve  this  uniformity  of  fabric  through 
the  different  setts  of  reed  depends  on  the  following  analogy  : 
As  the  square  of  any  given  reed  is 
To  the  grists  of  yarn  that  suits  that  reed. 
So  is  the  square  of  any  other  sett  of  reed 
To  its  respective  grist  for  the  same  fabric. 

The  reason  of  this  rule  will  evidently  appear  by 
considering  the  threads  of  warp  as  so  many  cylinders  of 
equal  length  or  altitude  and  the  reed  as  the  scale  which 
measures  the  space  in  which  a  given  number  of  these  threads 
are  contained ;  therefore  the  solidities  of  the  threads  in  one 
sett  of  reed  will  be  to  those  in  any  other  sett  of  reed  as  their 
bases  or  as  the  squares  of  their  diameters,  by  problem  11, 
book  12  of  Euclid.'' 

HOW  TO  USE. 

In  the  first  colum  of  these  tables  are  the  yarn  numbers, 
warp  or  filling  proceeding  from  1  to  40  by  half  numbers. 

The  other  columns  headed  ''Sley  or  Picks,"  contain  a 
tabular  number,  the  use  of  which  is  shown  in  the 
accompanying  examples. 

First— Warp  and  filling  alike,  sley  and  picks  alike  in  a 
given  cloth,  to  make  a  similar  cloth,  the  warp  and  filling 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE. 


153 


numbers  of  the  required  cloth  being  given.  To  find  sley  and 
picks. 


Opposite  16,  the  warp  and  filling  number  of  the  given 
cloth,  under  48  sley  and  picks,  find  the  tabular  number  21.5836. 

Opposite  20,  warp  and  filling  number  of  required  cloth, 
find  the  nearest  tabular  number  to  above,  viz.,  21.6376. 

At  the  top  of  the  column  containing  this  tabular  number 
is  54,  the  required  sley  and  picks. 

Second— Warp  and  filling  alike,  sley  and  picks  alike  in  a 
given  cloth,  to  make  a  similar  cloth,  the  sley  and  picks  of  the 
required  cloth  being  given.  To  find  the  required  warp  and 
filling  numbers. 

Example.  Sley.     Warp  No.   Picks.    Filling  No. 

Given  cloth,       48  16  48  16 

Required  cloth,  56  56 

Opposite  16,  the  warp  and  filling  number  of  the  given 
cloth,  under  48,  the  given  sley  and  picks,  find  21.5836,  the 
tabular  number. 

Under  56,  the  reed  and  picks  of  the  required  cloth,  find 
21.6394,  the  nearest  tabular  number  to  21.5836. 

Opposite  this  tabular  number,  in  the  column  marked 
''Yarn  Nos.''  is  21.5,  the  yarn  numbers  required. 

Third — Warp  and  filling  different  numbers,  sley  and  picks 
different  in  a  given  cloth,  to  make  a  similar  cloth,  the  warp 
number  only  of  the  required  cloth  being  given.  To  find  sley, 
picks  and  filling  number  for  required  cloth. 

Example.  Sley.     Warp  No.    Picks.   Filling  No. 

Given  cloth,       48  20  52  24 

Required  cloth,  25 

Opposite  20  warp,  under  48  sley,  find  20.6145,  tabular 
number. 

Opposite  25  warp,  (required  warp  number),  find  20.6685, 
(nearest  tabular  number). 

Above  this  tabular  number  is  the  required  sley,  54. 

Opposite  24  filling  number,  under  48  sley  (of  given  cloth), 
find  tabular  number  19.8227. 

Under  54  sley  (as  found)  opposite  19.8049  (nearest  tabular 
number  to  above),  find  30.5,  the  required  filling  number. 

Opposite  24,  filling  number,  under  52  picks  of  given  cloth, 
find  tabular  number  20.5180. 


Example. 

Given  cloth. 
Required  cloth. 


Sley.     Warp  No.    Picks.    Filling  No. 
48  16  48   '  16 

20  20 


154 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE, 


Opposite  30.5  find  20.5740  (the  nearest  tabular  number  to 
above). 

Above  this  tabular  number  is  59,  the  required  picks. 

Fourth — Warp  and  sley  different,  filling  and  warp 
numbers  different  in  a  given  cloth,  to  make  a  similar  cloth, 
having  picks  only  given.  To  find  the  required  warp,  sley  and 
filling  numbers. 

Example.  Sley.     Warp  No.   Picks.   Filling  No. 

Given  cloth,       48  20  52  24 

Required  cloth,  59 

Opposite  24  filHng  number,  under  52  picks  (of  given  cloth), 
find  20.5180,  tabular  number. 

Under  59  picks  (of  required  cloth)  find  20.5740  (nearest 
tabular  number  to  above) . 

Opposite  this  tabular  number  is  30.5,  the  required  filling 
number. 

Opposite  24  filling,  under  48  sley,  is  19.8227,  tabular 
number. 

Opposite  30.5  (filling  nun^ber  as  found)  find  19.8049, 
tabular  number. 

Above  this  is  54,  the  required  sley. 

Opposite  20  warp  number,  under  48  sley  (of  given  cloth) , 
find  20.6145,  tabular  number. 

Under  54,  the  sley  as  found,  find  20.6685  (nearest  tabular 
number) . 

Opposite  this  is  25,  the  required  warp  number. 

Fifth — Warp  and  filling  different,  sley  and  picks  different 
in  given  cloth,  to  make  a  similar  cloth,  having  sley  only  given. 
To  find  picks,  warp  and  filling  numbers. 

Example.  Sley.     Warp  No.    Picks.   Filling  No. 

Given  cloth,       48  20  52  24 

Required  cloth,  54 

Opposite  20  (given  warp  number)  under  48  (given  sley) 
find  20.6145,  tabular  number. 

Under  54,  the  required  sley,  opposite  20.6685  (nearest 
tabular  number)  find  25,  the  required  warp  number. 

Under  48  sley,  opposite  24  filling  { of  required  cloth)  find 
19.8227,  tabular  number. 

Under  54  (the  required  sley)  find  19.8049,  nearest  tabular 
number. 

Opposite  this  number  is  30.5,  the  filling  number  required. 
•    Opposite  24  filling,  under  52  picks,  find  20.5180. 

Opposite  30.5  find  20.5740,  the  nearest  tabular  number  to 
above,  and  above  this  is  59,  the  required  picks. 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE, 


155 


Sixth — To  make  a  range  of  cloths  equal  to  a  given  cloth, 
the  sley  only  for  the  required  cloth  being  given.  To  find 
warp  number,  filling  number  and  picks  per  inch. 

Example.  Sley.     Warp  No.    Picks.   Filling  No. 

Given  cloth,       48  20  52  24 

Required  cloth  to  have  sley,   50,  52,  54,  56,  58,  60 
threads  to  the  inch. 
Opposite  24  filling  and  under  48  sley  of  given  cloth  find 
tabular  number  19.8227. 

Opposite  nearest  tabular  numbers,  under  the  respective 
sley  numbers  of  the  required  cloth,  find  the  filling  numbers. 

Sley.      Nearest  Tabular  No.    Filling  No. 


50  19.8297  26 

52  19.8485  28 

54  19.8049  30.5 

56  19.8450  32.5 

58  19.8279  35 

60  19.8227  37.5 


Opposite  24  filling  number,  under  52  picks,  find  tabular 
number  20.5180. 

Opposite  respective  filling  numbers  of  required  cloth  as 
found,  find  nearest  tabular  numbers. 

Above  these  are  the  required  picks,  viz.,  54.  56,  59,  61,  63, 

65. 

Opposite  20,  warp  number,  under  48  sley  of  given  cloth, 
find  20.6145,  tabular  number. 

Under  the  various  sleys  of  given  cloth  find  nearest 
tabular  numbers. 

Sley.  Nearest  Tabular  No. 


50  20.6550 

52  20.6094 

54  20.5825 

56  20.6502 

58  20.6446 

60  20.6494 


Opposite  these  tabular  numbers  are  the  warp  numbers 
21.5,  23.5,  25.5,  27,  29,  31. 

Note — The  warp  and  filling  numbers  or  the  sley  and  picks 
in  the  table  can  be  multiplied  or  divided  by  any  number  if  the 
same  proportion  is  maintained  throughout  a  problem.  Thus 
20  yarn  number  will  answer  for  10  or  40,  that  is  20  divided  or 
multiplied  by  two.    40  sley  for  20  sley  or  80  sley. 

When  another  value  is  assigned  it  must  be  maintained 
throughout. 


156 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE. 


SLEY  OR  PICKS. 


20 


31 


33 


24.2597  24.6835  25.1 
23.0103  23.4341  23.8382 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38    I  39 


26.0206  26.4444|26.8485  27.2346  27.6042 1 27.9588 128.2995  28.6273  28.9432  29.2480 


25.4737  25.8433j26.1979  26.5386  26.8664  27,1823  27.4871 
24.2243  24.5939i24.9485!25.2892;25.6170  25.9329  26.2377 


.5  22.0412,22.4650  22.8691  23.2552|23.6248,23.9794l24.320i;24.6479  24.9638  25.2686 

3  121.2494  21.6732,22.0773  22.4634,22.8330|23.1876, 23.5283  23.8561  24.1720  24.4768 
.5  20.5799  21.0037,21.4078  21.7939,22.1635  22.5181 '22.8588  23.1866  23.5025  23.8073 

4  120.0000  20.4238  20.8279  21.2140;21.5836  21.9382  22.2789  22.6067  22.9226  23.2274 
.5  19.4885  19.9123  20.3164  20.7025,21.0721  21.4267  21.7674'22.0952;22.411l'22.7159 

5  19.0309;i9.4547|  19.8588  20.2449,20.6145,20.9691  21.3C98'2i.6376  21.9535  22.2583 
.5  18.6170  19.0408;  19.4449  19.8310,20.2006:20.5552  20.8959  21.2237  21.5396  21.8444 

6  18.2391  18.6629:19.0670  19.4531!  19.8227|20.1773  20.5180  20.8458  21.1617  21.4665 
.5  17.8915  18.3153  18.7194  19.1055  19.4751  19.8297  20.1704  20.4982  20.8141  21.1189 

7  17.5696117.9934  18.3975  18.7836,19.1532  19.5078  19.8485  20.1763  20.4922  20.7970 
.5  17.2700  17.6938' 18.0979  18.4840. 18.8536  19.2082  19.5489  19.8767  20.1926  20.4974 

■  '  Il7.4135,17.8176,18.1937|l8.5733;i8.9279,19.2686;i9.5964  19.9123  20.2171 
18.3100  18.6646  19.CC)53  19.3331  19.6490  19.9538 
18.0618  18. 4164 , 18.7571  19.0849  19.4008  19.7056 
17.8270 : 18. 1816  \  18.5223 '  18.8501 : 19.1660  19.4708 

 ,  17.6042 : 17.9588  18.2995  18.6273  18.9432  19.2480 

16.2325,16.6366  17.0227  17.3923  17.7469  18.0876 1 18.4154  18.7313  19.0361 
16.0305,16.4346'16.8207  17. 1903:17.5449, 17.8856;i8.2134  18.5293  18.8341 


.5  16.7264  17.150217.5543  17.9404 
9    16.4782  16.9020: 17.3061 1 17.6922 
.5  16.2434  16.6672,17.0713  17.4574 

10  16.020616.4444  16.8485  17.2346 
.5  15.808 

11  15.6067 


.515.4136 
12  15.2288 
.515.0515 


15.8374  16.2415!l6.6276  16.0972,17.3518  17.692518.0203  18.3362  18.6410 
15,6526  16.0567|16.4428  16.8124  17.1670  17.5077  17.8355  18.1514  18.4562 
15.4753  15.8794  16.2655  16.6351 '16.9897  17.3304  17.6582  17.9741  18.2789 


13   114.8812  15.3050  15.7091  16.095216.46481 16.8194  17.1601 17.4879  17.8038  18.1086 
15.1411:15.5452  15.9313  16.3009  16.6555!  16.9962 117.3240  17.6399  17.9447 
14.9831il5.3872,15.7733  16.1429  16.4975  16.8382  17.1660  17.4819  17.7867 
14.8307,15.2348  15.6209  15.9905  16.3451  16.6858:17.0136  17.3295  17.5343 
14.6835  15.087615.4737  15.84a3il6.1979  16.5386il6.8664  17.1823  17.4871 
14.5411  14.9452:15.3313: 15.7009  16.0555  16.3962'l6.7240  17.0399;i7.3447 
113.9794  14.5032'l4.80731519.34;i5.5630  15.9176  16.2562  16.5861  16.9020  17.2068 
5,13.8458  14  2696  14.6737,15.0598  15.4294  15.7840  16.1247  16.4425  16.7684,17.0732 
"     15.2997115.6543  15.9950  16.3228  16.6387116.9435 
15.1738  15.5284  15.8691  16.1969  16.5128  16.8176 
x.,.^...-^x-x.^uxc., 15.0515  15.4061115.7468  16.0746  16.3905  16.6953 
13.6827 , 14.0868  14. 4729  1 4. 8425  15. 1971 1 5. 5378  15.8656  16. 1815 !  16. 4863 
13.6569, 14.0610  14. 4471  14.8167 1 15. 1713  15.5120  15.8398  16.1557  j  16.4605 


.5,14.7173 

14  14.5593 
.5  14.4069 

15  14.2597 
.5  14. 1173 

16 

17'  il3.716l|l4.1399  14.5430  14.9301 
,5  13. 5902  14. 4040  14.418114. 8042 

18  13.4679  13.89171 14.29-58  14.6819 
.5  13.2589 

19  13.2331 


.5  13.1203 

20  113.0103 
.5:12.9031 

21  112.7984 
.512.6962 

22  12.5964 
.512.4988 

23  12.4033ll2.8271 
.5  12.309912.7337 

24  12.2185  12.6423 


13.5441 
13.4341 
13.3269 
13.2222 
13.1200 
13.0202 
12.9226 


13.9482,14.3343  14.7 
13.&382  14. 2243 ,14.5 
13.731014.1171  14.4 


13.626314.0124 
13.5241,13.9102 


.5  12.1289  12.5527  12.9568:  

1 12.0412  12.4650 !  12.8691  13. 2552 
.511.9552  12.3790 1 12. 7831  13. 1692 


11,15.0585  15.3992  15.7270  16.0429  16.3447 
I  14.9485  15.2892  15.6170  15.9329  16.23'"' 
14. 8413  15 . 1820  15. 5098  15.8257  16. 1305 


14. 3820  14. 7356 , 15. 0773  15.4051 , 15.7210  16.0258 
14. 2798 '  14. 6344 , 14.9751  15.3029  15.6188  15.9236 


13.4243  13.8104  14.1800  14.5346ll4.8753  15.2031  15.5190  15.8238 
13.3267  13.7128  14.0824114.4370  14.7777:15.1055  15.421415.7262 
13.2312  13.6173  13. 9869 14. 3415 14. 6822 15.0100  15.3259  15.6307 
13.1378  13.5239  13.8935  14.2481 ;  14. 58S8  14.9166  15.2325  15.5373 
13.0464  13.4325  13. 8021 1 14. 1567;  14. 4974  14.8252  15.1411  15.4459 
13.3429  13.7125  14.0671 14.4078  14.7356  15.0515 15.3563 
13. 6248  13. 9794 '  14. 3201  14.6479  14.9638  15. 2686 
13.5388  13.8934  14.2341  14.5619  14.8778  15. 1826 
111.8709  12.2947  12.6988  13.0849  13.4545,13.8091  14.1498  14.4776  14.7935  15.0983 
.5,11.7811  12.2049  12.6090  12.9951  13.3647  13.7193  14.0600  14.3878  14.7037115.0085 
27    111.7070  12.13^08  r2.5349;i2.9210;i3.2906  13.645213.985914.3137  14.6296' 14.9344 
12.4552  12. 8413  13. 2109  13.5655  13.9062  14.2340  14.5499  14.8547 


.5,11.6273  12.0511 

28  11.5490,11.9728  12.371 
.511.472211.8960  12.3001 

29  111.396611.8204  12.2245 
.511.3224  11.7462  12.1503 

30  11.2494  11.6732  12.0773 
.5'11.1776  11.6014  12.0055 

31  111.1070  11.5308  11.9349 
.511.0375  11.4613:11.8654 

32  10.9691  11.3929:11.7970 
.5,10.9018  11.3256  11.7297 

33  110.8355  11.259311.6634 
.5, 10.7702  11.194011.5981 

34  10.7058  11.1296  11.5337 
.5:10.6424  11.0662  11.4703 


12.' 
12.6862 
12.6106 
12.5364 
12.4634 
12.3916 
12.3210 


12.1831 
12.1158 
12.0495 
11.9842 


35  i  10.5799, 11.0037 
.5,10.5183  10.9421 
110.4576  10.8814 
.5  10.397710.8215 

37  10.3.386  10.7624 
.5  10.2803  10.7041 


11.8564 


12.2515  12.6211 


13.1326 
13.0558 
12.9802 
12.9060 
12.8330 
12.7612 

12.6906  13.0452 


12.552' 
12.4854 
12.4191 
12.3538 


11.9198  12.2894 


11.4078  11.7 


12.2260 


I  12.1635  12.5181 


11.3462  11.7323  12.1019 
11.2855  11.6716  12.0412 
11.2256  11.6117  11.9813 
11.1665;  11.5526  11.9222 
11.1082:11.4943  11.8639 

38  10.2288  10.646611.050711.4368  11.8064 
.5  10. 1660  10.5898110.9939  11.3800  11.7496 

39  110.1100  10.5.338  10.9379  11.3240' 11.6936 
,5 1 10.0546 : 10.4784  [  10.8825  11.2686  11.6382 

40  i  lO.OOOOj  10.4238  10.8279 1 11.2140  11.5836 


13. 4872  13.8279 , 14. 1557  14. 47 
13. 4104 '13.7511  14.0789  ^  < 
13.3348,13.6755  14.0033 


13.2606  13.6013  13.9291  14.2450!  14.5498 
13.1876  13.5283  13.8561 
13.1158,13.4565 


13.3859 

13.3164  13.&442 


16 

14.3948 
14.3192 


14.7764 
14.6996 
14.6240 


14.1720  14.4768 
13.78431 14.1002!  14.4050 
13.7137 


12.9757 

12.9073  13.2480  13.5758 
12.8400  13.1807  13.5085 
12.7737  13.1144  13.4422 
12.7084  13.0491  13.3' 
12.6440  12.9847  13.3125 
12.5806  12.9213  13.2491 
12.8588  13  1866 
12.4565  12.7972  13.1250 
12.3958  12.7365:13.0643 
12.3359 112.6766  13.0044 
12.276812.6175  12.9453  13.2612 
12.2185  12.5592  12.8870  13.2029 
12. 1610  12.5017  12.8295 !  13. 1454 
12.1042  12.4449  12.7727  13.0886 
12.0482  12.3889  12.7167  13.0326 
11.9928!  12.3335  12.66131 12.9772 
11.9382 1 12.2789  12.6067 1 12.9226 


14.0296  14.3344 
13.9601  14.2649 


13.891714.1965 
13.8244  14.1292 
13.7581,14.0629 
13.6928  13.9976 
13.6284|  13.93.32 
13.5650!  13.8698 
13.5025:13.8073 
13.4409,13.7457 
13.3802  13.6850 
13.3203  13.6251 
13.5660 
13.5077 
13.4502 
13.3934 
13.3374 
13.2820 
13.2274 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE, 


157 


o  b 


.5 


.5 


SLEY  OR  PICKS. 


30 


31 


10 

.5 

11 
12' 
13* 
14* 
15* 
16* 
17* 
18* 
19*' 


20 

.5 

21 
22* 
28* 
24* 
25* 
26* 
27* 
28* 
29* 
80* 
31* 
32* 
33* 
34* 
35 
36* 
37* 


39 
40* 


.5 


29.5424 
27.7815 
26.5821 
25.5630 
24.7712 
24.1017 
23.5218 
23.0103 
22.5527 
22.1388 
21.7609 
21.4133 
21.0914 
20.7918 
20.5115 
20.2482 
20.0000 
19.7652 
19.5424 
19.3305 
19.1285 
18.9354 
18.7506 
18.5733 
18.4030 
18.2391 
18.0811 
17.9287 
17.7815 
17.6391 
17.5012 
17.3676 
17.2379 
17.1120 
16.9897 
16.7807 
16.7549 
16.6421 
16.5321 
16.4249 
16.8202 
16.2180 
16.1182 
16.0206 
15.9251 
15.8317 
15.7403 
15.6507 
15.5630 
15.4770 
15.3927 
15.3029 
15.2288 
15.1491 
15.0708 
14.9940 
14.9184 
14.8442 
14.7712 
14.6994 
14.6268 
14.5593 
14.4909 
14.4236 
14.3573 
14.2920 
14.2276 
14.1642 
14.1017 
14.0401 
13.9794 
13.9195 
13.8604 
13.8021 
13.7446 
13.6878 
13.6318 
13.5764 
13.5218 


'29.82;^ 
28.0663 
26.8169 
25.8478 
25.0560 
24.3865 
28.8066 
23.2951 
22.8375 
22.4236 
22.0457 
21.6981 
21.8762 
21.0766 
20.7963 
20.5330 
20.2848 
20.0500 
19.8272 
19.6153 
19.4133 
19.2202 
19.0854 
18.8581 
18.6878 
18.5289 
18.8659 
18.2185 
18.0668 
17.9239 
17.7860 
17.6524 
17.5227 
17.3968 
17.2745 
17.0655 
17.0397 
16.9269 
16.8169 
16.7097 
16.6050 
16.5028 
16.4030 
16.3054 
16.2099 
16.1165 
16.0251 
15.9355 
15.8478 
15.7618 
15.6775 
15.5877 
15.5136 
15.4839 
15.3556 
15.2788 
15.2082 
15.1290 
15.0560 
14.9842 
14.9136 
14.8441 
14.7757 
14.7084 
14.6421 
14.5768 
14.5124 
14.4490 
14.8865 
14.3249 
14.2642 
14.2043 
14.1452 
14.0869 
14.0294 
18.9726 
18.9166 
13.8612 
18.8066 


30.1030  80.8703 
28.8421  28.6094 
27.0927  27.8600 


33  33 


26.1326 
25.8318 
24.6628 
24.0824 
28.5709 
23.1133 
22.6994 
22.3215 
21.9789 
21.6520 
21.3524 
21.0721 
20.8088 
20.5606 
20.3258 
20.1030 
19.8911 
19.6891 
19.4960 
19.3112 
19.1389 
18.9686 
18.7997 
18.6417 
18.4893 
18.3421 
18.1997 
18.0618 
17.9282 
17.7985 
17.6726 
17.5508 
17.8413 
17.3155 
17.2027 
17.0927 
16.9855 
16.8808 
16.7786 
16.6788 
16.5812 
16.4857 
16.3928 
16.8009 
16.2113 
16.1286 
16.0376 
15.9538 
15.8685 
15.7894 
15.7097 
15.6814 
15.5546 
15.4790 
15.4048 
15.8818 
15.2600 
15.1894 
15.1199 
15.0515 
14.9842 
14.9179 
14.8526 
14.7882 
14.7248 
14.6628 
14.6007 
14.5400 
14.4801 
14.4210 
14.8627 
14.3052 
14.2484 
14.1924 
14.1870 
14.0824 


26.3909 
25.5991 
24.9296 
24.8497 
28.8382 
28.8806 
22.9667 
22.5888 
22.2412 
21.9198 
21.6197 
21.8394 
21.0761 
20.8279 
20.5931 
20.3708 
20.8584 
19.9564 
19.7638 
19.5785 
19.4012 
19.2809 
19.0670 
18.9090 
18.7566 
18.6094 
18.4670 
18.3291 
18.1955 
18.0658 
17.9899 
17.8176 
17.6086 
17.5828 
17.4700 
17.8600 
17.2528 
17.1481 
17.0459 
16.9461 
16.8485 
16.7580 
16.6596 
16.5682 
16.4786 
16.3909 
16.8049 
16.2206 
16.1308 
16.056 
15.9770 
15.8987 
15.8219 
15.7463 
15.6721 
15.5991 
15.5273 
15.4567 
15.8872 
15.3188 
15.2515 
15.1852 
15.1199 
15.0555 
14.9921 
14.9296 
14.8680 
14.8078 
14.7474 
14.6883 
14.6300 
14.5725 
14.5157 
14.4597 
14.4043 
14.3497 


34  35 


30.6296 
28.8687 
27.6193 
26.6502 
25.8584 
25.1889 
24.6090 
24.0975 
23.6899 
23.2260 
22.8481 
22.5005 
22.1786 
21.8790 
21.598 
21.3354 
21.0872 
20.8524 
20.6296 
20.4177 
20.2157 
20.0226 
19.8878 
19.6605 
19.4902 
19.8268 
19.1688 
19.0159 
18.8687 
18.7268 
18.5884 
18.4548 
18.3251 
18.1992 
18.0769 
17.8679 
17.8421 
17.7293 
17.6198 
17.5121 
17.4074 
17.8052 
17.2054 
17.1078 
17.0128 
16.9189 
16.8275 
16.7879 
16.6502 
16.5642 
16.4799 
16.3901 
16.3160 
16.2368 
16.1580 
16.0812 
16.0056 
15.9814 
15.8584 
15.7866 
15.7160 
15.6465 
15.5781 
15.5108 
15.4445 
15.8792 
15.3148 
15.2514 
15.1889 
15.1273 
15.0666 
15.0067 
14.9476 
14.8893 
14.8318 
14.7750 
14.7190 
14.6686 
14.6090 


30.8814 
29.1205 
27.8711 
..J.9020 
26.1102 
25.4407 
24.8608 
24.3493 
23.8917 
28.4778 
23.0999 
22.7523 
22.4804 
22.1808 
21.8505 
21.5872 
21.3390 
21.1042 
20.8814 
20.6695 
20.4675 
20.2744 
20.0896 
19.9128 
19.7420 
19.5781 


36 


31.1261 
29.8652 
28.1158 
27.1467 
26.3549 
25.6854 
25.1055 
24.5940 
24.1864 
28.7225 
23.3446 
22.9970 
22.6751 
22.3755 
22.C952 
21.8319 
21. '5837 
21  3489 
21.1261 
20.9142 
20.7122 
20.5191 
20.3343 
20.1517 
19.9867 


37 


19.4201 
19.2677 
19.1205 
18.9781 
18.8402 
18.7066 
18.5769 
18.4510 
18.3287 
18.1197 
18.0939 
17.9811 
17.8711 
17.7689 
17.6592 
17.5570 
17.4572 
17.3596 
17.2641 
17.1707 
17.0793 
16.9897 
16.9020 
16.8160 
16.7317 
16.6419 
16.5678 
16.4881 
16.4098 
16.3380 
16.2574 
16.1832 
16.1102 
16.0384 
15.9678 
15.8983 
15.8299 
15.7626 
15.6968 
15.6310 
15.5666 
15.5032 
15.4407 
15.3791 
15.3184 
15.2585 
15.1994 
15.1411 
15.0836 
15.0268 
14.9708 
14.9154 
14.8608 


19.8228 
19.6648 
19.5124 
19.8652 
19.2228 
19.0849 
18.9513 
18.8216 
18.6957 
18.5784 
18.3644 
18.3886 
18.2258 
18.1158 
18.0086 
17.9089 
17.8017 
17.7019 
17.6048 
17.5088 
17.4154 
17.3240 
17.2844 
17.1467 
17.0607 
16.9764 
16.8866 
16.8125 
16.7828 
16.6545 
16.5977 
16.5021 
16.4279 
16.3549 
16.2831 
16.2125 
16.1430 
16.0746 
16.0078 
15.9410 
15.8757 
15.8113 
15.7479 
15.6854 
15.6288 
15.5631 
15.5032 
15.4441 
15.3858 
15.8283 
15.2715 
15.2155 
15.1601 
15.1055 


31.3640 
29.6031 
28.8537 
27.3846 
26.5928 
25.9233 
25.3434 
24.8319 
24.8748 
28.9604 
23.5825 
28.2349 
22.9180 
22.6184 
22.3381 
22.0698 
21.8216 
21.5868 
21.3640 
21.1521 
20.9501 
20.7570 
20.5722 
20.3949 
20.2246 
20.0607 
19.9027 
19.7503 
19.6031 
19.4607 
19.3228 
19.1892 
18.9595 
18.9386 
18.8118 
18.6028 
18.5765 
18.4637 
18.3537 
18.2465 
18.1418 
18.0396 
17.9398 
17.8422 
17.7467 
17,6583 
17.5619 
17,4728 
17.3846 
17.2986 
17.2143 
17.1245 
17.0504 
16.9707 
16.8924 
16.8856 
16.7400 
16.6658 
16.5928 
16.5210 
16.4504 
16.8809 
16.3125 
16.2452 
16.1789 
16.1186 
16.0492 
15.9858 
15.9233 
15.8617 
15.8010 
15.7411 
15.6820 
15.6237 
15.5662 
15.5094 
15.4534 
15.3980 
15.3484 


38  39 


81.5957 
29.8848 
28.5854 
27.6168 
26.8245 
26.1550 
25.5751 
25.0636 
24.6060 
24.1921 
28.8142 
23.4666 
23.1447 
22.8451 
22.5648 
22.3015 
22.0533 
21.8185 
21.5957 
21.8888 
21.1818 
20.9887 
20.8039 
20.6266 
20.4568 
20.2924 
20.1344 
19.9820 
19.8348 
19.6924 
19.5545 
19.4209 
19.2912 
19.1658 
19.0480 
18.8340 
18.8082 
18.6954 
18.5854 
18.4782 
18.8785 
18.2718 
18.1715 
18.0739 
17.9784 
17.8850 
17.7936 
17.7040 
17.6163 
17.5308 
17.4460 
17.3562 
17.2821 
17.2024 
17.1241 
17.0678 
16.9717 
16.8975 
16.8245 
16.7527 
16.6821 
16.6126 
16.5442 
10.4769 
16.4106 
16.8453 
16.2809 
16.2175 
16.1550 
16.0934 
16.0327 
15.9728 
15.9187 
15.8554 
15.7979 
15.7411 
15.6851 
15.6297 
15.5751 


31.8213 
30.0504 
28.8110 
27.8449 
27.0501 
26.3806 
25.8007 
25.2892 
24.8316 
24.4177 
24.0398 
23.6922 
23.3702 
23.0707 
22.7904 
22.5271 
22.2789 
22.0441 
21.8213 
21.6094 
21.4074 
21.2148 
21.0295 
20.8522 
20.6819 
20.5180 
20.8600 
20.2076 
20.0604 
19.9180 
19.7801 
19.6465 
19.5168 
19.3909 
19.2686 
19.0596 
19.0338 
18.9210 
18.8110 
18.7038 
18.5991 
18.4969 
18.3971 
18.2995 
18.2040 
18.1106 
18.0192 
17.9296 
17.8419 
17.7559 
17.6716 
17.5818 
17.5077 
17.4280 
17.8497 
17.2929 
17.1978 
17.1281 
17.0501 
16.9783 
16.9077 


16.7698 
16.7025 
16.6862 
16.6709 
16.5065 
16.4431 
16.8806 
16.8190 
16.2588 
16.1984 
16.1893 
16.0810 
16.0285 
15.9667 
15.9107 
15.8553 
15.8007 


158 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE. 


SI.EY  OR  PICKS. 


J^>^  40 


41 


1 

2 
3 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 ' 
15" 
16' 
17' 
18" 
19' 
20' 
21* 
22* 
23' 
24' 
25' 
26' 
27" 
28" 
29' 
30' 
31 
32' 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 


32, 
.5  30. 
29, 


.5 
.5 
.5 
.5 

5 
5 
5 

5  22, 


21, 
21, 
21, 
21 
21 
20, 

,5120. 
20. 

,5  20. 
20. 

5  20. 
20. 
19. 
19. 
19. 
19. 
19. 
19, 
19, 
19j 
18: 
18. 
18, 
18.' 
18, 
18, 
18, 
18, 
18, 
18 
17, 
17, 
17, 
17, 
17, 
17, 
17, 
17, 


,0412,32.2557 
,2803  30.4948 
.0309  29.2454 
.0618  28.2763 
.2700  27.4845 
.6005  26.8150 
.0206)26.2351 
.5091 125.7236 
.0515  25.2660 
.6376:24.8501 
.2597i24.4742 
.9121124.1266 
,5902,23.8047 
.2906  23.5051 
.0103,23.2248 
,7470  22.9615 
.4988'22.7133 
.2640;  22.4785 
.0412,22.2.557 
.8293  22.0438 
.6273:21.8418 
.4:342  21.6487 
,2494121.4639 
.0721  21.2866 
.9018;21.1163 
.'379  20.9524 
.5799:20.7944 
,4275  20.6420 
,2803  20.4948 
.1379,20.3524 
.0000  20.2145 
.8664;20.0809 
.7367119.9512 
.610819.8253 
.4885  19.7030 
.2795  19.4940 
,2537119.4682 
.1409;  19.3554 
,0309119.2454 
,9237  19.1382 
,8190119.0335 
,7068  18.9313 
.6170  18.8315 
.5194118.7339 
,4239:18.6384 
,3305118.5450 
.2391  18.4536 
.1495118.3640, 
,0618  18.2763 
.9758,18.1903 
.8915  18.1060 
.8017!  13.0162 
.7276  17.9421 
.6479,17.8624 
.5696  17.7841 
.4928:17.7073 


17, 
17, 
17. 
17. 
17. 
16. 
16, 
16, 
,5  16, 
16, 
516, 
16, 
516. 

16. 
.516. 

16. 
.516. 

16. 
,516, 
16, 
,516, 
116, 


17.6317 
17.5575 
17.4845 
17.4127 
17.3421 
17.2726 
17.2042 
17.1369 
17.0706 
17.0053 
16.9409 
16.8775 
16.8150 
16.7534 
,4782  16.6927 
1183  16.6328 
.3592:16.57.37 
.3009  16.51.54 
.2434  16.4579 
.1866  16.4011 
.1306  16.3451 
.0752  16.2897 
.0206  16.2351 


.4172 
.3430 
.2700 
1982 
1276 
,0581 
,9897 
.9224 
.8581 
.7908 
.7264 
.6630 
.6005 
.5389 


43 

32.4650 
30.7041 
29.4547 
28.4856 
27.6936 
27.0243 
26.4444: 
25.9329 
25.4753 
25.0614 
24.6845 
24.3349 
24.0140 
23.7144 
23.4341 
23.  r 
22.9226 
22.6878 
22.4650 
22.2531 
22.0511 
21.8580 
21.6732 
21. 

21.3256 
21.1617 
21.0037 
20.8513 
20.7001 
20.5617 
20.4238 
20.2902 
20.1605 
20.0346 
19.9123 
19.7033 
19  6775 
19.5647 
19.4547 
19.3475 
19.2428 
19.1406 
19.0408 
18.9432 
18.8477 
18.7543 
18.6629 

;  18. 57:3:3 

18.4856 
18.3996 
18.3153 
18.2255 
18.1514 
18.0717 
17.9934 
17.9166 
17.8410 
17.7668 
17.6938 
17.6220 
17.5514 
17.4819 
17.4135 
17.3462 
17.2799 
17.2146 
17.1502 
17.0868 
17.0243 
16.9627 
16.9020 
16.8421 
16.7830 
16.72471 
16.6672 
16.6104; 
16.5344: 
16.4990 
16.4444 


43 


44 


32.6694  32, 
30.908531, 
29.6591  29, 
28.6900  28, 
27.8982  28, 
27.2287  27, 
26.6488  26, 
26.1373  26, 
25.6797:25, 
25. 2658 '25, 
24. 8879, 25, 
24.5403  24 
24. 2184!  24, 
23.9188  24 
23.6385,23. 
23.3752  23. 
23.1270  23. 
22.8922  23. 
22.6694  22. 
22.4575  22. 
22.2553  22. 
22.0624  22, 
21.8776!22. 
21.7003  21. 


45 


46 


1.8691,33.0643  33.2552 
..1082  31.3034:31.4943 
).8588  30.0540:30.2449 
.8897:29.0849  29.2758 


28.4840 
.8145 


47 


48 


.33.6248 
31.8639 
30.6145 


1.0979,28.2931 
.4284  27.6236 
1.8485  27.0437 
).3370  26.5322 
i.8794  26.0746 
i.  4655  25.6607 
)876:25.2828 

..  ;400!24.9352,_  

L4181  24.6133  24.8042 
^.1185  24.3137:24.5046 


21.5300 
21.3661 
21.2081 
21.0557 
20.9085 
20.7661 
20.6282 
20.4946 
20.3649 
20.2390,20, 
20.1167  20, 
19. 9077 1 20. 
20. 

19.7691119. 
19.6591  19. 
19.5519119. 


24.2243  24.4111 


!.8382  24.0334 
1.5749:23.7701 
,3267  23.5219 
.0919  23.2871 
.8691123.0643 
,6572:22.8524 
,4552  22.6504 
,2621:22.4573 
0773,22.2725 
.9000,22.0952 
.7297|21.9249|.....^ 
.5658,21.7610  21.9519 
.4078:21.6030  21.7939 
.2554  21.4506  21.6415 
1082  21.3034  21.4943 
.9658  21.1610  21.3519 
8279|21.0231 
6943  20.8895 
5646:20.7598 


33.4420 
31.6811 

30.4317   

29.4626  29.6454 
28.6708:28.8536 
28.0013  28.1841 
27.2346  27.4214  27.6042 
26.7231 126.9099:27.0927 
26.2655  26.4523  26.6351 
26.0384  26.2212 
25.6605 
25.3129 
24.9910 
24.6914 


25.8516 
25.4737 
25.1261 


23.9610 
23.7128 
23,4780 
23.2552 
23.0433 
22.8413 
22.6482 
22.4634 
22.2861 
22.1158 


,4387 
,3164 
,1074 


20.6339 
20.5116 
20.3026 

  20.2768 

9688  20.1640 
8588:20.0540 
7516  19.9468 


21.2140 
21.0804 
20.950; 
20.8248 


20.7025|20.8893:21.O721 
20.4935i20.6803  20.8631  21.0422 


19.44' 

19.3450 

19.2452 

19.1476 

19.0521 

18.9587 

18.8673 

18.7777 

18.6900 

18.6040 

18.5197 

18.4299 

18.3558 

18.2761 

18.1978 

18.1210 

18.0454 

17.9712 

17.8982 

17.8264 

17.7558 

17.6863 

17.6179 

17.5506 

17.4843 

17.4190 

17.3546 

17.2912 

17.2287 

17.1671 

17.1064 

17.0465 

16.9874 

16.9291 

16.8716 

16.8148 

16.7588 

16.7034 

16.6488 


.6469 
5447 
4449 
3473 
2518 
1584 
0670 
9774 


,803 
194 
6296 
5555 
4758 
,3975 
3207 
,2451 
1709 
,0979 
0261 
,9555 


.8176 
.7503 
.6840 
.6187 


19.8421 
19.7399 
19.6401 
19.5425 
19.4470 
19.3536 
19.2622 
19.1726 
19.0849 
18.9989 
18.9146 
18.8248 
18.7507 
18.6710 
18.5927 
18.5159 


24.1478 
23.8996 
23.6648 
23.4420 
23.2301 
23.0281 
22.8350 
22.6502 
22.4729 
22.3026 
22.1387 
21.9807 
21.8283 
21.6811 


25.8433 
25.495 
25.1738 
24.8742 
24.5939 
24.3306 
24.0824 
23.8476 
23.6248 
23.4129 
23.2109 
23.0178 
22.8330 
22.6557 
22.4854 


22.1635 
22.0111 

...   21.8639 

21.5387  21.7215  21.9006 
21.4008:21.5836  21.7627 
21.2672  21.4500  21.6291 
21.1375:21.3203  21.4994 
21.0116  21.1944  21.3735 
21.2512 


20.467 
20.3549 
20.2449 
20.1377 
20.0330 
19.9308 
19.8310 
19.7334 
19.6379 
19.5445 
19.4531 
19.3635 
19.2758 
19.1898, 


49 


33.8039 
32.0430 
30.7936 
29.8245 
29.0327 
28.3632 
27.7833 
„..2718 
26.8142 
26.4003 
26.0224 
25.6748 
25.3529 
25.0533 
24.7730 
24.5097 
24.2615 
24.0267 
23.8039 
23.5920 
23.3900 
23.196.9 
23.0121 
22.8348 
22.6645 


22.3215  22.5006 


22.3426 
22.1902 
22.0430 


20.6545  20.8373  21.0164 
20.5417 120.7245  20.9036 
20.4317:20.6145  20.7936 
20.3245  20.5073  20.6864 


20.2198  20.4026 
20.1176  20.3004 
20.0178  20.2006 
19.9202  20.1030 
19.8247  20.0075 
19.731319.9141 
19.6399  19.8227 
19.550319.7331 


19.1055 
19.0157 
18.9416 
18.8619 
18.7836 
18.7068, 
18.4403  18.6312  18.8180 
18.3661  18.5570  18.7438 
18.2931  18.4840 
18.2213;18.4122 
18.150718.3416 
18.0812,18.2721 
18.0128118.2037 
17.9455,18.1364 
17.8792  18.0701 

  17.8139,18.0048 

.5543  17.7495  17.9404 
17.6861  17.8770 


19.2923 
19.2025 
19.1284 
19.0487 
18.9704 
18. 


18.6708 
18.5990 
18.5284 
18.4589 


20.5817 
20.4795 
20.3797 
20.2821 
20.1866 
20.0932 
20.0018 
19.9122 
19.8245 
19.7385 
19.6542 
19.5644 
19.4903 
19.4406 
19.3323 
19.2555 
19.1799 
19.1057 
19.0327 
18.9609 


19.4626  19.6454 
19.3766  19.5594 
19.4751 
19.3853 
19.3112 
19.2315 
19.1532 
19.0764 
19.0008 
18.9266 
18.8536 

18.7818   

18.7112  18.8903 

  18.6417  18.8208 

18.3905  18.5733  18.7524 
18.3232  18.5060  18.6851 
18.2569  18.4397  18.6188 
18.1916  18.374418.5537 
18.1272,18.3100  18.4891 
.-.czw  x,.uou.  ...oi.v  18.0638  18.2466  18.4257 
.4284  17.6236'17.8145,18.001318.1841!18.3632 
.3668  17.5620' 17.7529  17.939718.122518.3016 
.3061  17.5013  17.6922 : 17.8790|  18.0618  18.2409 
,2462  17.4414  17.6323  17.8191  18.0019  18.1810 
1871  17.3823  17.5732  17.7600  17.9428  18.1219 
.1288  17.3240  17.5149  17.7017  17.884518.0636 
.071317.2665  17.4574  17.6442  17.8270  18.0061 
.0145i  17.2097  17.4006  17.5874  17.7702  17.9493 
.958517.1537  17.3446  17.5.314  17.7142  17.89.33 
.90.311 17.0983  17.2892  17.4760  17.8588  17.8.379 
.8485  17.0437  17.2346  17.4214  17.6042  17.7833 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE. 


159 


.5 


.5 


SLEY  OR  PICKS. 


60 


12 

is' 


14 
15' 


16 

17' 


18 
19* 


20 
21  ■ 


22 
23* 


24 
25* 


26 
27* 


.5 


.5 


28 
29" 
30* 
31* 
32* 
33* 
34* 
35* 
86*' 
37*" 


39 
40*' 


61 


33.9794 
32.2186 
30.9691 
30.0000 
29.2082 
28.5387 
27.9588 
27.4473 
26,9897 
26.5758 
26.1979 
25.8503 
25.5284 
25.2288 
24.9485 
24.6852 
24.4390 
24.2022 
23.9794 
23.7675 
23.5655 
23.3724 
23  1876 
23.0103 
22.8400 
22.6761 
22.5181 
22.3657 
22.2185 
22.0761 
21.9382 
21.8046 
21.6749 
21.5490 
21.4267 
21.2177 
21.1919 
21.0791 
20.9691 
20.8619 
20.7572 
20.6550 
20.5552 
20.4576 
20.3621 
20.2687 
20.1773 
20.0877 
20.0000 
19.9140 
19.8297 
19.7399 
19.6658 
19.5861 
19.5078 


34.1514 
32.3905 
31.1411 
30.1720 
29.3802 
28.7107 
28.1308 
27.6193 
27.1617 
26.7478 
26.3699 
26.0223 
25.7004 
25.4008 
25.1205 
24.8572 
24.6090 
24.3742 
24.1514 
23.9395 
23.7375 
23.6444 
23.3596 
23.1823 
23.0120 
22.8481 
22.6901 
22.5377 
22.3905 
22.2481 
22.1102 
21.9766 
21.8469 
21.7210 
21.6987 
21.3897 
21.3639 
21.2511 
21.1411 
21.0339 
20.9292 
20.8270 
20.7272 
20.6296 
20.5341 
20.4407 
20.3493 
20.2597 
20.1720 
20.0860 
20.0017 
19.9119 
19.8378 
19.7581 
19.6798 


34.3201  34.4855 
32.5592  32.7246 


62 


53 


31.3098 
30.3407 
29.5489 
28.8794 
28.2995 
27.7880 
27.3304 
26.9165 
26.5386 
26.1910 
25.8691 
25.5695 
25.2892 
25.0259 
24.7777 
24.5429 
24.8201 
24.1082 
23.9062 
23.7131 
23.5283 
23.3510 
23.1807 
23.0168 
22.8588 
22.7064 
22.5592 
22.4168 
22.2789 
22.1453 
22.0156 
21.8897 
21.7674 
21.5584 
21.5326 
21.4198 
21.3098 
21.2026 


19.4310  19.6030 


19.3554 
19.2812 
19.2082 
19.1364 
19.0658 
18.9963 
18.9279 
18.8606 
18.7943 
18.7290 
18.6646 
18.6012 
18.5387 
18.4771 
18.4164 
18.8565 
18.2974 
18.2391 
18.1816 
18.1248 
18.0688 
18.0184 
17.9588 


19.6274 
19.4532 
19.3802 
19.3084 
19.2378 
19.1683 
19.0999 
19.0326 
18.9663 
18.9010 
18.8366 
18.7732 
18.7107 
18.6491 
18.5884 
18.6285 
18.4694 
18.4111 
18.3536 
18.2968 
18.2408 
18.1854 
18.1308 


31.4752 
30.6061 
29.7143 
29.0448 
28.4649 
27.9534 
27.4958 
27.0819 
26.7040 
26.8564 
26.0345 
25.7349 
25.4646 
25.1913 
24.9431 
24.7083 
24.4855 
24.2736 
24.0716 
23.8785 
23.6937 
23.6164 
23.3461 
23.1822 
23.0242 
22.8718 
22.7246 
22.5822 
22.4443 
22.3107 
22.1810 
22.0551 
21.9828 
21.7288 
21.6980 
21.6852 
21.4762 
21.3680 


54 


34.6479 
32.8870 
31.6376 
30.6685 
29.876. 
29.2072 
28.6273 
28.1158 
27.6682 
27.2443 
26.8664 
26.6188 
26.1969 
25.8978 
25.6170 
25.3537 
25.1065 
24.8707 
24.6479 
24.4360 
24.2840 
24.0409 
23.8561 
23.6788 
23.5086 
23.3446 
28.1866 
23.0342 
22.8870 
22.7446 
22.6067 
22.4731 
22.3434 
22.2176 
22.0962 
21.8862 
21.8604 


21*.0979  2L2633 


20.9957 
20.8959 
20.7983 
20.7028 
20.6094 
20.5180 
20.4284 
20.3407 
20.2647 
20.1704 
20.0806 
20.0066 
19.9268 
19.8485 
19.7717 
19.6961 
19.6219 
19.6489 
19.4771 
19.4065 
19.8370 
19.2686 
19.2013 
19.1350 
19.0697 
19.0058 
18.9419 
18.8794 
18.8178 
18.7571 
18.6972 
18.6381 
18.6798 
18.5223 
18.4655 
18.4095 
18.3541 
18.2995 


211611 
21.0618 
20.9637 
20.8682 
20.7748 
20.6884 
20.6938 
20.6061 
20.4201 
^0.3868 
20.2460 
20.1719 
20.0922 
20.0139 
19.9371 
19.8615 
19.7873 
19.7148 
19.6426 
19.5719 
19.5024 
19.4340 
19.8667 
19.3004 
19.2351 
19.1707 
19.1073 
19.0448 
18.9832 
18.9225 
18.8626 
18.8035 
18.7452 
18.6877 
18.6809 
18.6749 
18.6195 
18.4649 


65 


34.8078 
33.0464 
31.7970 
30.8279 
30.0361 
29.3666 
28.7867 
28.2752 
27.8176 
27.4087 
27.0258 
26.6782 
26.8568 
26.0567 
25.7764 
25.6131 
26.2649 
25.0801 
24.8073 
24.6954 
24.3934 
24.2003 
24.0166 
23.8382 
23.6679 
23.6040 
23.3460 
23.1986 
23.0464 
22.9040 
22.7661 
22.6326 
22.6028 
22.3769 
22.2646 
22.0466 
22.0198 


56 


2L7476  2L9070 


21.6376 
21.5304 
21.4267 
21.3236 
21.2237 
21.1261 
21.0306 
20.9872 
20.8458 
20.7562 
20.6686 
20.6825 
20.4982 
20.4084 
20.8348 
20.2546 
20.1763 
20.0995 
20.0239 
19.9497 
19.8767 
19.8049 
19-7348 
19.6648 
19.5964 
19.5291 
19.4628 
19.3975 
19.3381 
19.2697 
19.2072 
19.1466 
19.0849 
19.0250 
18.9659 
18.9076 
18.8501 
18.7933 
18.7373 
18.6819 
18.6273 


21.7970 
21.6898 
21.5861 
21.4829 
21.3881 
21.2866 
21.1900 
21.0966 
21.0062 
20.9166 
20.8279 
20.7419 
20.6676 
20.5678 
20.4987 
20.4140 
20.3357 
20.2689 
20.1833 
20.1091 
20.0361 
19.9643 
19.8937 
19.8242 
19.7558 
19.6885 
19.6222 
19.6569 
19.4925 
19.4291 
19.3666 
19.8060 
19.2443 
19.1844 
19.1253 
19.0670 
19.0095 
18.9527 
18.8967 
18.8418 
18.7867 


84.9638 
83.2029 
31.9535 
30.9844 
30.1926 
29.5231 
28.9432 
28.4317 
27.9741 
27.5602 
27.1823 
26.8847 
26.6128 
26.2132 
25.9329 
25.6696 
26.4214 
26.1866 
24.9638 
24.7619 
24.5499 
24.3568 
24.1720 
23.9947 
23.8244 
23.6605 
23.5025 
23.8501 
23.2029 
23.0605 
22.9226 
22.7890 
22.6593 
22.5834 
22.4111 
22.2021 
22.1768 
22.0636 
21.9535 
21.8463 
21.7416 
21.6394 
21.5396 
21.4420 
21.8466 
21.2631 
21.1617 
21.0721 
20.9844 
20.8984 
20.8141 
20.7243 
20.6502 
20.6706 
20.4922 
20.4154 
20.8898 
20.2656 
20.1926 
20.1208 
20.0502 
19.9807 
19.9128 
19.8450 
19.7787 
19.7134 
19.6490 
19.5856 
19.5231 
19.4616 
19.4008 
19.3409 
19.2818 
19.2235 
19.1660 
19.1092 
19.0532 
18.9978 
18.9432 


57 


58  69 


35.1175 
38.3566 
32.1072 
81.1381 
30.8468 
29.6768 
29.0969 
28.6854 
28.1278 
27.7139 
27.3360 
26.9884 
26.6665 
26.3669 
26.0866 
26.8288 
25.5751 
25.3403 
26.1175 
24.9056 
24.7036 
24.5105 
24.3257 
24.1484 
23.9781 
23.8142 
28.6662 
23.5038 
28.3666 
28.2142 
28.0763 
22.9427 
22.8130 
22.6871 
22.5648 
22.3568 
22.3300 
22.2172 
22.1072 
22.0000 
21.8953 
21.7981 
21.6933 
21.5957 
21.6002 
21.4068 
21.3154 
21.2268 
21.1881 
21.0521 
20.9678 
20.8780 
20.8089 
20.7242 
20.6459 
20.5691 
20.4935 
20.4198 
20.8463 
20.2745 
20.2039 
20.1344 
20.0660 
19.9987 
19.9324 
19.8671 
19.8027 
19.7393 
19.6768 
19.6152 
19.5545 
19.4946 
19.4855 
19.3772 
19.8197 
19.2629 
19.2069 
19.1515 
19.0969 


35.2686 
33.5077 
32.2588 
31.2892 
30.4974 
29.8279 
29.2480 
28.7365 
28.2789 
27.8650 
27.4871 
27.1395 
26.8176 
26.6180 
26.2377 
26.9744 
25.7262 
26.4914 
26.2686 
26.0567 
24.8647 
24.6616 
24.4768 
24.2995 
24.1292 
23.9663 
23.8073 
23.6549 
23.5077 
23.3653 
23.2274 
23.0988 
22.9641 
22.8382 
22.7159 
22.5069 
22.4811 
22.3688 
22.2683 
22.1611 
22.0464 
21.9442 
21.8444 
21.7468 
21.6518 
21.6579 
21.4665 
21.3769 
21.2892 
21.2032 
21.1189 
21.0291 
20.9550 
20.8753 
20.7970 
20.7202 
20.6446 
20.5704 
20.4974 
20.4256 
20.3550 
20.2855 
20.2171 
20.1498 
20.0835 
20.0182 
19.9588 
19.8904 
19.8279 
19.7668 
19.7056 
19.6457 
19.6866 
19.5283 
19.4708 
19.4140 
19.3680 
19.3026 
19.2480 


35.4170 
83.6661 
32.4067 
31.4376 
30.6458 
29  9768 
29.3964 
28.8849 
28.4273 
28.0084 
27.6855 
27.2879 
26.9660 
26.6664 
26.3861 
26.1228 
25.8746 
25.6398 
25.4170 
25.2051 
26.0081 
24.8100 
24.6262 
24.4479 
24.2776 
24.1137 
28.9567 
23.8083 
23.6561 
23.5137 
23.8768 
23.2422 
23.1125 
22.9866 
22.8643 
22.6663 
22.6295 
22.6167 
22.4067 
22.2995 
22.1948 
22.0926 
21.9928 
21.8962 
21.7997 
21.7063 
21.6149 
21.5253 
21.4376 
21.8516 
21.2673 
21.1775 
21.1084 
21.0237 
20.9454 
20.8686 
20.7980 
20.7188 
20.6458 
20.5740 
20.5084 
20.4389 
20.3655 
20.1 
20.2319 
20.1666 
20.1022 
20.0388 
19.9768 
19.9147 
19.8540 
19.7941 
19.7850 
19.6767 
19.6192 
19.5624 
19.6064 
19.4510 
19.3964 


160 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE. 


75  C 


SLEY  OR  PICKS. 


.5 


.5 


.5 


10 
11* 


12 
13* 


14 

15" 


16 


60 


17 

.5 

18 
19' 
20* 
21* 
22* 
23* 
24* 
25" 


.5 


27 
28* 
29* 
30* 
31* 
32* 
33* 
34* 
35* 
36* 

I 

37*" 


39 
40  " 


35.5630 
33.8021 
32.5527 
31.5836 
30.7918 
30.1223 
29.5424 
29.0309 
28.5733 
28.1594 
27.7815 
27.4339 
27.1120 
26.8124 
26.5321 
26.2688 
26.0206 
25.7858 
25.5630 
25.3511 
25.1491 
24.9560 
24.7712 
24.5939 
24.4236 
24.2597 
24.1017 
23.9493 
23.8021 
23.6597 
23.5218 
23.3882 
23.2585 
23.1326 
23.0103 
22.8013 
22.7755 
22.6627 
22.5527 
22.4455 
22.3408 
22.2386 
22.1388 
22.0412 
21.9457 
21.8523 
21.7609 
21.6713 
21.5836 
21.4976 
21.4133 
21.3235 
21.2494 
21.1697 
21.0914 
21.0146 
20.9390 
20.8648 
20.7918 
20.7200 
20.6494 
20.5799 
20.5115 
20.4442 
20.3779 
20.3126 
20.2482 
20.1848 
20.1223 
20.0607 
20.0000 
19.9401 
19.8810 
19.8227 
19.7652 
19.7084 
19.6524 
19.5970 
19.5424 


61 


35.7066 
33.9457 
32.6963 
31,7272 
30.9354 
30.2659 
29.6860 
29.1745 
28.7169 
28.3030 
27.9251 
27.5775 
27.2556 
26.9560 
26.6757 
26.4124 
26.1642 
26.0294 
25.7066 
25.4947 
25.2927 
25.0996 
24.9148 
24.7375 
24.5672 
24.4033 
24.2453 
24.0929 
23.9457 
23.8033 
23.6654 
23.5316 
23.4021 
23.2762 
23.1539 
22.9449 
22.9191 
22.8063 
22.6963 
22.5891 
22.4844 
22.3822 
22.2824 
22.1848 
22.0893 
21.9959 
21.9045 
21.8149 
21.7272 
21.6412 
21.5569 
21.4671 
21.3930 
21.3133 
21.2350 
21.1582 
21.0826 
21.0084 
20.9354 
20.8636 
20.7930 
20.7235 
20.6551 
20.5878 
20.5215 
20.4562 
20.3918 
20.3284 
20.2659 
20.2043 
20.1436 
20.0837 
20.0246 
19.9663 
19.9088 
19.8520 
19.7960 
19.7406 
19.6860 


63 


63 


35.9868 
34.2259 
32.9765 
32.0084 
31.2156 
30.5461 
29.9662 
29.4547 
28.9971 
28.6832 
28.2053 
27.8577 
27.5357 
27.2362 
26.9559 
26.6926 
26.4444 
26.1796 
25.9868 
25.7749 
25.5729 
25.3798 
25.1950 
25.0177 
24.8474 
24.5835 
24.5255 
24.3731 
24.2259 
24.0835 
23.9466 
23.8118 
23.6823 
23.5564 
23.4341 
23.2251 
23.1993 
23.0865 
22.9765 
22.8693 
22.7646 
22.6624 
22.5626 
22.4650 
22.3695 
22.2761 
22.1847 
22.0951 
22.0074 
21.9214 
21.8371 
21.7473 
21.6732 
21.5985 
21.5152 
21.4384 
21.3628 
21.2886 
21.2156 
21,1438 
21.0732 
21.0037 
20.9353 
20.8680 
20.8017 
20.7364 
20.6720 
20.6086 
20.5461 
20.4845 
20.4238 
20.3639 
20.3048 
20.2465 
20.1890 
20.1322 


35.8478 
34.0869 
32.8375 
31.8694 
31.0766 
30.4071 
29.8272 
29.3157 
28.8581 
28.4442 
28.0663 
27.7187 
27.3968 
27.0972 
26.8169 
26.5536 
26.3054 
26.1706 
25.8478 
25.6359 
25.4339 
25.2408 
25.0560 
24.8787 
24.7084 
24.5445 
24.3865 
24.2341 
24.1 

23.9445 
23.8066 
23.6728 
23.5433 
23.4174 
23.2951 
23.0861 
23.0603 
22.9475 
22.8375 
22.7303 
22.6256 
22.5234 
22.4236 
22.3260 
22.2305 
22.1371 
22.0457 
21.9551 
21.8684 
21.7824 
21.6981 
21.6083 
21.5342 
21.4545 
21.3762 
21.2994 
21.2238 
21.1496 
21.0766 
21.0048 
20.9342 
20.8647 
20.7963 
20.7290 
20.6627 
20.5974 
20.5330 
20.4696 
20.4071 
20.3455 
20.2848 
20.2249 
20.1558 
20.1075 
20.0500 

19.9932   

19.9372  20.0762 
19.8818  20.0208 
19.8272  19.9662 


64 


65 


36.1236 
34.3627 
33.1133 
32.1442 
31.3524 
30.6829 
30.1030 
29.6915 
29.1339 
28.7200 
28.3421 
27.9945 
27.6726 
27.3730 
27.0927 
26.8294 
26.6812 
26.3464 
26.1236 
25.9117 
25.7097 
25.5166 
25.3318 
25.1545 
24.9842 
24.8203 
24.6623 
24.5099 
24.3627 
24.2203 
24.0824 
23.9488 
23.8291 
23.6932 
23.5709 
23.3619 
23.3361 
23.2232 
23.1133 
23.0061 
22.9014 
22.7992 
22.6994 
22.6018 
22.6063 
22.4129 
22.3215 
22»2319 
22.1442 
22.0582 
21.9739 
21.8841 
21.8100 
21.7303 
21.6520 
21.5752 
21.4996 
21.4254 
21.3524 
21.2806 
21.2100 
21.1405 
21.0721 
21.0048 
20.9385 
20.8732 
20.8088 
20.7454 
20.6829 
20.6213 
20.5606 
20.6007 
20.4416 
20.3833 
20.3258 
20.2690 
20.2130 
20.1576 
20.1030 


36.2583 
34.9774 
33.2480 
32.2789 
31.4871 
30.8176 
30.2377 
29.7272 
29.2686 
28.854 
28.4768 
28.1292 
27.8073 
27.6077 
27.2274 
26.9641 
26.7159 
26.4811 
26.2583 
26.0464 
25.8344 
25.6513 
25. 4665 
25.2892 
25. 1189 
24.9550 
24.7970 
24.6446 
24.4974 
24.3550 
24.2071 
24.0835 
23.9538 
23.8279 
23.7058 
23.4966 
23.4708 
23.3570 
23.2470 
23.1408 
23.0361 
22.9339 
22.8341 
22.7365 
22.6410 
22.5476 
22.4562 
22.3566 
22.2789 
22.1929 
22.1086 
22.0188 
21.9447 
21.8650 
21.7867 
21.7099 
21.6343 
21.6601 
21.4871 
21.4163 
21.3447 
21.2752 
21.2068 
21.1395 
21.0732 
21.0079 
20.9435 
20.8801 
20.8176 
20.7560 
20.6953 
20.6354 
20.5763 
20.5180 
20.4605 
20.4037 
20.3477 
20.2923 


36.8909  36.6216 
34.6300  34.7606 
33.3806  33.6112 


66 


32.4115 
31.6197 
30.9502 
30.3703 
29.8588 
29.4012 
28.9873 
28.6094 
28.2618 
27.9399 
27.6403 
27.3600 
27.0967 
26.8485 
26.6137 
26.8909 
26. 1790 
25.9770 
25.7839 
25.6991 
25.4218 
25.2515 
26.0876 
24.9296 
24.7772 
24.6300 
24.4876 
24.3497 
24.2161 
24.0864 
23.9606 
23.8382 
23.6292 
23.6034 
23.4906 
23.3806 
23.2734 
23.1687 
23.0665 
22.9667 
22.8691 
22.7736 
22.6802 
22.6888 
22.4992 
22.4115 
22.8265 
22.2412 
22.1614 
22.0778 
21.9976 


67 


32.5421 
31.7603 
31.0808 
_..50G9 
29.9894 
29.6318 
29.1183 
28.7400 
28.3924 
28.0705 
27.7709 
27.4906 
27.2273 
26.9791 
26.7443 
26.6215 
26.3096 
26.1076 
25.9146 
25.7297 
25.6624 
26.3821 
25.2182 
25.0602 
24.9078 
24.7606 
24.6182 
24.4803 
24.3467 
24.2170 
24.0911 
23.9688 
23.7598 
23.7340 
23.6212 
23.6112 
23.4040 
23.2993 
23.1971 
23.0978 
22.9997 
22.9042 
22.81C8 
22.7194 
22.6298 
22.6421 
22.4661 
22.8718 
22.2820 
22.2079 
22.1282 


36.6502 
34.7 
33.6399 
32.6708 
31.8790 
31.2095 
30.6296 
30.1171 
29.6605 
29.2470 


21.9193,22.0499 


21.8425 
21.7669 
21.6Q27 
21.6197 
21.6479 
21.4773 
21.4078 
21.8394 
21.2721 
21.2058 
21.1405 
21.0761 
21.0127 
20.9502 
20.8886 
20.8279 
20.7680 
20.7089 
20.6506 
20.6981 
20.6363 
20.4803 
20.4249 


21.9731 
21.8976 
21.8233 
21.7603 
21.6785 
21.6079 
21.6384 
21.4700 
21.4027 
21.3364 
21.2711 
21.2067 
21.1438 
21.0808 
21.0192 
20.9585 
20.8986 
20.8395 
20.7812 
20.7237 
20.6669 
20.6109 
20.5555 


68 


20.'2377  20.*3703  20.5009 


28.6211 
28.1992 
27.8996 
27.6193 
27.3660 
27.1078 
26.8730 
26.6602 
26.4383 
26.2363 
26.0432 
25.8684 
25.6811 
25.6108 
25.3469 
25.1889 
25.0366 
24.8893 
24.7469 
24.6090 
24.4764 
24.3457 
24.2198 
24.0975 
23.8885 
23.8627 
23.7499 
23.6899 
23.6327 
23.4280 
28.8258 
23.2260 
23.1284 
23.0329 
22.9825 
22.8481 
22.7585 
22.6708 
22.5848 
22.6006 
22.4107 
22.8366 
22.2569 
22.1786 
22.1018 
22.0262 
21.9520 
21.8790 
21.8072 
21.7866 
21.6671 
21.5987 
21.5314 
21.4661 
21.3998 
21.8354 
21.2720 
21.2095 
21.1479 
21.0872 
21.0273 
20.9682 
20.9099 
20.8524 
20.7956 
20,7896 
20.6842 
20.6296 


69 


__.7770 
85.0161 
33.7667 
32.7976 
32.0058 
31.3363 
80.7564 
80.2489 
29.7873 
29.8788 
28.9955 
28.6479 
28.8260 
28.0264 
27.7461 
27.4828 
27.2346 
26.9998 
26.7770 
26.5661 
26.3631 
26.1700 
25.9852 
25.8079 
25.6376 
26.4737 
25.3157 
26.1633 
25.0161 
24.8737 
24.7858 
24.6022 
24.4725 
24.3466 
24.2243 
24.0153 
23.9895 
28.8767 
23.7667 
23.6695 
23.6548 
28.4526 
28.3528 
23.2552 
23.1597 
23.0663 
22.9749 
22.8853 
22.7976 
22.7116 
22.6273 
22.5875 
22.4634 
22.8887 
22.8054 
22.2286 
22.1530 
22.0788 
22.0058 
21.9340 
21.8634 
21.7939 
21.7255 
21.6582 
21.6919 
21.5266 
21.4622 
21.8988 
21.8363 
21.2747 
21.2140 
21.1541 
21.0950 
21.0367 
20.9792 
20.9224 
20.8664 
20.8110 
20.7564 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE. 


161 


SLEY  OR  PICKS. 


70 


71 


36.9020 
.5  35.1411 
;33.8917 
.5,32.9226 
32.1308 
.5  31.4613 
'30.8814 
.5:30.3699 

29.9123,_- 
.5^29.4984  29 
,29. 1205 '29 
.5,28.7729'28, 
■  28.4510128 
.5  28.1514'28 
1  127.871112. 
.5  27.6078 '27 
I  27.3596'27 
.5  27.1248'2 


.0252 

n2643 
L0149 
.0458 
1.2540 
.5845 
..0046 
1.4931 
.0355 
1.6216  29 
.2437 

29. 


26.9020  27 
.5126.6901  26 
126.4881  26, 
.5,26.2950  26, 
126.1102  26. 


.5  25.9329 
125.7626 
5,25.5987 
125.4407 
.5125.2883,25. 

125.1411  25 
5  24.9987|25 
1 24.8608 '24 
.5  24.7272'24 
124.5975  24, 
.5  24.4716  24. 

I24..3493  24. 
.5  24.1403  24 
1 24. 1145  24. 
,5,24.0017,24. 

23.8917i24. 
.5i23.7845i23, 
23.6798'23. 
.5.23.5776  23. 

23.4778'2a 
.5  23.38<02'23. 

23.2847123. 
,5  23.1913  23. 

23.0999  23. 
.5  23.0103,  23. 

22.9226i23. 
5  22.8366' 22 
22.7523  22. 
5  22.6625122. 

22.5884  22. 
5  22.5087,22. 

l22.4304!22. 
.5122.3536  22. 

22.27_ 
.5!22.2038j22. 

,22.1308,22. 
.5  22.0590:22 
121.9884  22 
.5  21.9189  22. 
121.8505  21. 
,21.7832,21. 
121.7169  21 
.5  21.6516  21 
121.5872,21 
.5  21.5238,21 
21.461321 
.5,21.3997  21 
21.3390;21 
.5,21.2791121 
|21.2200  21 
.5;21.161721 
,21.1042  21 
.5, 21.0474  21 
120.9914  21 
.5  20.9360  21 
20.8814  21 


!.5742 
.2746 
.9943 
.7310 
.4828 
'.2480  27 
'.0252  27 
.8133  26 
.6113'26 
.4182 
.2334 
i.0561 


.1466 

.3857 
,1363 
.1672 
.3754 
.'059 
J260 
.6145 
1569 
.7430 
3651 
.0175 


73 


74 


37.2665 


37 


75 


.3960 
.1157 
.8524 
.6042 
.3694 


.7219 
.5639 
.4115 
.2643 
.1219 
.9840 
.8504 
.720. 
.5948 
.4725 
.2635 
,23. . 
-1249 
.0149 
.907 
.8031 
-7008 
.6010 
.5034 


35.5056 
34.2562 
33.2871 
32.4953 
31.8252 
31.2459 
30.7344 
30.2768 '30, 
29.8629  29 
29.4850129 
29.1374  29, 
28.8155  28, 
28.5159 '28 
28.2356128 
27.9723  28 
27.7241  27 

  27.4893  27 

1466  27.2665  27, 
27.0546'27, 
26.8526 '26. 
26.6595^26, 
26.4747,26, 
26.2974 '26 
26.1271126, 
25.9632:26, 

  25.8052  25. 

.5329  25.6528  25, 
.3857|25.5056  25 
,2433  25.3632  25, 
.1054  25.2253  25 
,9718  25.0917125, 
.8421  24.9620  25, 
.7162'24.836r24. 
.5939124.7138  24 
.3849'24.5048  24, 
3591124.4790  24 
2463  24.3662  24 
13a3  24.2562  24. 


,934 
,7327 
5396 
.3548 
1775 
.0072 
.8433 


.3846  37. 

.6237:35, 
.3743134. 
,4052  33 
.6134  32. 
.9439  32. 
.3640 '31 
.8525  30, 
.3949  30, 
,9810:30, 
,6031129, 
.2555  29, 
.9336:29 
.6340^8, 
.3537  28, 
.0904 '28, 
.8422  27, 
.6074 '27. 
.3446  27 
.1727  27 
.9707  27 


.5012'37.6 
.7403  35.7 
.4909  34.6 
.5218  33.6 
7300  32.8 
.0605  32.1 
.4806 I 31.5 
.9691  31.0 
.511530.6 
.0976  30.2 
,7197,29.8 
.3721|29.4 
.0502129 
.7506128 
.4703  28 
.2070  28 


^.7298 


i.7195 
3.7504 
2.9586 
2.2891 
L.7092 
L.1977 
).7401 
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78 


.4079  23. 
,3145  23. 
.2231123. 
.1335  23. 
.0458  23. 

 23. 

,8755  i  22. 
.785. 
.7116  22. 
.6319  22. 
.5536  22.1 
,4768  22. 
.4012  22. 
.3270:22. 
.2540122. 
.1822122. 
.1116122. 
,0421  22. 
.9737:22. 
.9064  22. 
.8401  21. 
748  21. 


.0291 
.9244 
,8222 
.7224 
.6248 


24.1490  24, 
24.0443  24, 
23.9421! 24 
23.8423  23 
23.7447  23, 
5293  23.6492  23 
.4359123.5558  23, 
,3445  23. 4644 '23, 


.2549 
1672 
0812 


22.9071 


,7333 
.6750 


.7104 
.6470 
.5845 

.5229,.^ 
.4622  21 
,4023  21 


23,8748123 
23.2871123 
23.2011  23, 
23.1168  23, 
23.0270  23, 
22.9529  23. 
22.8732  22. 
22.7949  22. 
22.7181122 
22.6425,22 
22.5683122 
22.4953  22. 
22.4235  22. 
22.3529122 
22,2834122, 
22.2150  22 
22. 1477 1 22, 
22.0814'22, 
22.0161122. 
,8318  21.9517  22 
.7684  21.8823  22, 
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.6443121.7642  21 
.5836121.7035121 


,5226 
.4484 
.3754 


1635 
.0951 
.0278 
.9615 


.5928  26, 
.4155 
.2452  26 
.0813  26 
.9233  26 
,7709  25, 
.6237  25. 
,4813  25. 
.3434  25, 
.2098  25, 
,0801125, 
.9542125, 
.8319  24 
.6229  24 
,5971 '24 
.4843  24, 
.3743  24, 
.2671!24 
.1624  24 
.0602  24, 
.9604124. 
.8628123, 
'673 '23 
.6739123 
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.4052  23, 
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,0710  23. 
.9913  23. 
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.8362  22 

 22 

.6134 
.5416 
,4710 
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,2658 
1995 
1342 


.7240:27, 
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.3893  27 
.0873,27, 
.8942127, 
1.7094 '26, 
.5321126 
.3618  26 
.1979126 
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.8875  26 
.7403,25 
.5979,25 
.4600  25 
.3264  25 
.1967125. 
.0708  25. 
.9485125 
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.7137:24 
.6009  24 
.4909  24, 
.3837  24 
.2790,24 
.1768  24 
.0770  24 
.9794124 
.8839  23 
'905  23 


,6991 


.0064 
.9439 
.8823 


..34.32 
.2849 
.2274 
.1706 
,1146 
.0592 


.5237|21.6436!21 
.4646  21.5845121 


.4063  21.5262  =  21 
.3488:21.4687121 
.2920  21.4119  21 
.2.360.21.3.559i21 

 1806121.3005^21 

..0046,21.1260  21.2459  21 


.8216 
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.5218,.-.,. 
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1864  22 
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.5854 
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 24. 

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1.8142:23 
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1.4666,23, 
1.3768:23, 
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1.0679  23 
1.9923  23 
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.63321 22 
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1756:22 
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.05.33  22, 
,9934  22, 
.9343  22, 
.8760  21, 
.8185  21 
.7617  21 
,7057  21, 
,6503  21, 
,59.57  21. 


79 


37.9525 
36.191C 
34.943:. 
33.9731 
.33.181 
.32.5118 
31.9319 
31.4204 
30.9628 
30.5489 
.30.1710 
29.8234 
29.6015 
29.2019 
28  9216 
28.6583 
28.4101 
28.1753 
27.9525 
27.7406 
27.5 
27.3455 
27.1607 
26.9834 
26.8131 
26.6492 
26.4912 
26.3388 


37.8419 
36.0810 
34.8306 
33.8625 
33.070'. 
32.4012 
31.8213 
31.3098 
30.8522 
30.4383 
.9483!30.0604 
1.6007129.7128 
'.2788  29.3909 
1.9792  29.0913 
.6989,28.8110 
.4356128.5477 
i.l874l28.2995 
.9526  28.0647 
.7298  27.8419 
.5179127.6300 
.3159  27.4280 
.1228  27.2349 
.9.380  27.0501 
.7607126.8728 
.5904 126.7025 
.4265  26.5386 
.2685  26.3806 

.1161:26.2282   

.9689  26.0810  26.1916 
.8265  25.9386  26.0492 
.6886,25.8007)25.9113 
.5550125.5671  25.7777 
.4253,25.5374  25.6480 
.2994*25.4115  25.5221 
.1771125.2892  25.3998 
.9681125.0802  25.1908 
.9423'25.C544  25.1650 
.8295l24.9416i25.0422 
.7195  24.8316  24.9422 
,6123  24.7244  24.8350 
24.6192  24.7303 
24.5175  24.6281 
24.4177  24.5283 
24.3201  24.4307 

  24.2246*24.3852 

.019li24.1312l24.2418 
.9277l24.0398;24.1504 
,8381  28  9502,24.0606 
.7504,23.8625  23.9731 
.6644128.7765,23.8871 
.5801123.6922  28.8028 
.4908  23.6024  28.7180 
.4152  23.5283'28.6889 
,3365  23.4486128.5592 
1.2582l23.3703l23.48C9 
J814|28.2935  23.4041 
.1058,23.2179  23.3285 
.0816l23.1437i23.2543 
.9586,23.0707,23.1813 
.8868  22.9989  23.1095 
1.8162  22.9283  28.0389 
.7467122,8588  22.9694 
.6783,22.7904  22.9010 
.6110'22.7281  22.88.37 
5447 122.6568 '22.7674 
.4794  22.5915122.7021 
.4150  22.5271 '22.6377 
.8516,22.4637 '22.5743 
.2881 '22.4012  22.5118 
.2275,22.8396  22.4502 
,1658:22.2789122.3895 
.1069122.2190  22.8296 
.0478122.1599:22.2705 
.9895l22.1016l22.2122 
.9.320  22.0441 '22.1547 
.8752:21.9873  22.0979 
.8192:21.9813  22.0419 
.7638  21.8759  21.9865 
'092  21.8213  21.9819 


,59 
.4054 
.8056 
,2080 
1125 


162 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE. 


.5 


SLEY  OR  PICKS. 


80 


38.0618 
36.3009 
35.0515 
34.0824 
33.2906 
32.6211 
32.0412 
31.5297 
31.0721 
30.6582 
30.2803 
29.9327 
29.6108 
29.3112 


.5 


.5 


81 


38.1697 
36.4088 
35.1594 
34.1903 
33.3985 
32.7290 
32.1491 
31.6376 
31.1800 
30.7661 
30.3882 
30.0406 
29.7187 
29.4191 
29.1388 


83 


38.2763 
36.5154 
35.2660 
34.2969 
33.5051 
32.8356 
32.2557 
31.7442 
31.2866 
30.8727 
30.4948 
30.1472 
29.8253 
29.5267 
29.2454 


17 

18 
19 

.5  25.1615  25.2694 

20  25.0515  25.1594 
„  24.9443  25.0522 

21  24.8396  24.9475 
24.7374  24.8453 
24.6376  24.7455 
24.5400  24.6479 
24.4445  24.5524 
24.3511  24.4590 
24.2597 
24.1701 
24.0824 
23.9964 

26  23.9121 
.5  23.8223 

27  23.7482 
.5  23.6685 

28  23.5902 
.5  23.5134 

29  23.4378 
.5  23.3636 

30  23.2906 
.5  23.2188 


24.3676 
24.2780 
24.1903 


83 


38.3816 
36,6207 
35.3713 
34.4022 
33.6104 
32.9409 
32.3610 
31.8495 
31.3919 
30.9780 
30.6001 
30.2525 
29.9306 
29.6310 
29.3507 
29.0874 
28.8392 
28.6044 
28.3876 
28.1697 
27.9677 


84 


38.4856 
36.7247 
35.4753 
34.5062 
33.7144 
33.0449 
32.4650 
31.9535 
31.4959 
31.0820 
30.7041 
30.3565 
30.0346 
29.7350 
29.4547 
29.1914 
28.9432 
28.7084 
28.4856 
28.2737 
28.0717 


85 


 ^y.lOOO  OiJ.tZ'kD'ii 

.5  28.7676  28.8755  28.9821 
9    28.5194  28.6273  28.7339 
.5  28.2846  28.3925  28.4991 

10  28.0618  28.1697  28.2763 
.5  27.8499  27.9578  28-0644 

11  27.6479  27.7558  27.8624  ^, .au, .  ^o.v<  xi 
.5  27.4548  27.5627  27.6693  27.7746  27.8786 

12  27.2700  27.3779  27.4845  27.5898  27.6938 
.5  27.0927  27.2006  27.3072  27.4125  27.5165 

13  26.9224  27.0303  27.1369  27.2422  27.3462 
.5  26.7585  26.8664  26.9730  27.0783  27.1823 

14  26.6005  26.7084  26.8150  26.9203  27.0243 
.5  26.4481  26.5560  26.6626  26.7679  26.8719 

15  26.3009  26.4088  26.5154  26.6207  26.7247 
.5  26.1585  26.2664  26.3730  26.4783  26.5823 

16  26.0206  26.1285  26.2351  26.3404  26.4444 
25.8870  25.9949  26.1028  26.2068  26.3108 
25.7573  25.8652  25.9731  26.0771  26.1811 
25.6314  25.7393  25.8472  25.9512 
25.5091  25.6170  25.7249  23.8289 
25.3001  25.4080  25.5159  25.6199 
25.2743  25.3822  25.4901  25.5941 

25.3773  25.4813 
25.2673  25.3713 
25.1588  25.2641 
25.0541  25.1594 
24.9519 
24.8521 
24.7545 
24.6590 
24.5656 
24.4742 
24.3846 

  24.2969   

24.1043  24.2109  24.3162 
24.0200  24.1266  24.2319 
23.9302  24.0368  24.1421 
23.9627  24.0680 
23.8830  23.9883 

23.8047  23.9100   

23.7279  23.8332  23.9372 
23.6523  23.7576  23.8616 
23.5781 
23.5051 
23.4333 


24.4899 
24.4022 


23.8561 
23.7764 
23.6981 
23.6213 

23.5457  

23.4715  23.5781  23.6834  23.7874 
23.3985  23.5051  23.6104  23.7144 
  23.3267  23.4333  23.5386  23.6426 

31  23.1482  23.2561  23.3627  23.4680  23 .5720 
.5  23.0787  23.1866  23.2932  23.3985  23 .5025 

32  23.0103  23.1182  23.2248  23.3301  23 .4341 
.5  22.9430  23.0509  23.1575  23.2628  23.3668 

33  22.8767  22.9846  23.0912  23.1965  23 .3005 
.5  22.8114  22.9193  23.0259  23.1312  23.2352 

34  22.7470  22.8549  22.9615  23.0668  23. 1708 
.5  22.6836  22.7915  22.8981  23.0034  23.1074 

35  22.6211  22.7290  22.8356  22.9409  23.0449 
.5  22.5595  22.6674  22.7740  22.8793  22.9833 

36  22.4988  22.6067  22.7133  22.8186  22.9226 
.5  22.4389  22.5468  22.6534  22.7587  22.8627 

37  22.3798  22.4877  22.5943  22.6996  22.8036 
.5  22.3215  22.4294  22.5360  22.6413  22.7453 

22.2640  22.3719  22.4785  22.5838  22.6878 
•5  22.2072  22.3151  22.4217  22.5227  22.6310 

39  22.1512  22.2591  22.3657  22.4710  22  5750 
.5  22.0958  22.2037  22.3103  22.4156  22.5196 

40  22.0412  22.1491  22.2557  22.3610  22.4650 


26.0552 
25.9329 
25.7239 
25.6981 
25.5853 
25.4753 
25.3681 

  25.2634 

25.0572  25.1612 
24.9574  25.0614 
24.8598  24.9638 
24.7643  24.8683 
24.6709  24.7749 
24.5795  24.6835 
24.5939 
24.5062 
24.4202 
24.3359 
24.246- 
24.1720 
24.0923 
24.0140 


38.5884 
36.8275 
35.5781 
34.6090 
33.8172 
33.1477 
32.5678 
32.0563 
31.5987 
31.1848 
30.8069 
30.4593 
30.1374 
29.8378 
29.5575 
29.2942 
29.0460 
28.8112 
28.8497 
28.3765 
28.1745 
27.9814 
27.7966 
27.6193 
27.3490 
27.2851 
27.1271 
26.9747 
26.8275 
26.6851 
26.5472 
26.4136 
26.2839 
26.1580 
26.0357 
25.8267 
25.8009 
25.6881 
25  5781 
25.4709 
25.8662 
25.2640 
25.1642 
25.0666 
24.9711 
24.8777 
24.7863 
24.6967 
24.6090 
24.5230 
24.4387 
24.3489 
24.2948 
24.1951 
24.1168 
24.0400 
23.9644 
23.8902 
23.8172 
23.7454 
23.6748 
23.6053 
23.5369 
23.4696 
23.4033 
23.3380 
23.2736 
23.2102 
23.1477 
23.0861 
23.0254 
22.9655 
22.9064 
22.8481 
22.7906 
22.7338 
22.6778 
22.6224 
22.5678 


86 


87 


38.6900 
36.9294 
35.6797 
34.7186 
33.9188 
33.2493 
32.6694 
32.1579 
31.7003 
31.2864 
30.9085,__ 
30.5609  30 
30.2390  30, 
29.9394  30 
29.6591  29 
29.3958  29 
29.1476  29 
28.9128  29 
28.6900  28 
28.4781  28. 
28.2761  28 
28.0830  28 
27.8982  27 
27.7209  27, 
27.4506  27 
27.3867  27. 
27.2287  27 
27.0763 
26.9291 
26.7867 
26.6488 
26.5152 
26.3855 
26.2596 
26.1373 
25.9283 
25.9025 
25.7897 
25.6797 
25.5725 
25.4678 
25.3656 
25.2658 
25.1682 
25.0727 
24.9793 
24.8879 
24.7983 
24.7106 
24.6246 
24.5403 
24.4505 
24.3764 
24.2967 
24.2184 
24.1416 
24.C660 
23.9918 
23.9188  .._ 
23.8470  23. 
23.7764  23. 
23.7069  23. 
23.6385  23. 
23.5712  23. 
23.5049  23. 
23.4396  23. 
23.3752  23. 
23.3118  23. 
23.2493  23. 
23.1877  23. 
23.1270  23. 
23.0671  23. 
23.0080  23. 
22.9497  23 
22.8922  22 
22.8354  22. 
22.7794  22. 
22.7240  22 
22.6694  22, 


,7904 
.0295 
,7801 
8110 
0192 
,3497 
7698 
.2583 
,8007 
.3869 
.0089 
.6613 
1.3394 
1.0398 
1.7695 
1.4962 
1.2480 
L0132 
'904 
.5705 
i.3765 
.1834 
.9986 
.8213 
,5510 
.4871 
.3291 
.1767 
.0295 
.8871 
.7492 
.6156 
.4859 
,3600 
.2378 
,0287 
.0029 
.8901 
.7801 
.6729 
5682 
4660 
.3662 
.2686 
.1731 
.0797 
,9883 
,8987 
,8110 
,7250 
,6407 
,5509 
,4768 
.3971 
.3188 
,2420 
,1664 
,0922 
,0192 
,9474 
,8768 
,8073 
,7389 
6716 
6053 
5400 
4756 
4122 
3497 
2881 
2274 
1675 
1084 
0501 
9926 
9358 
8798 
8244 


88 


1288 
,8794 
,9103 
,1185 
,4490 
.8691 
,3576 
.9000 
,4861 
,1082 
,7606 
,4387 
,1391 
,8588 
,5955 
,3473 
,1125 
,8897 
.6778 
.4758 
.2827 
0979 
.9206 
.6503 
.5864 
.4284 
.2760 
1288 
9864 
,8485 
7149 
,5852 
,4593 
,3370 
1280 
1022 
9894 
8794 
,7722 
6675 
5653 
4655 
3679 
2724 
1790 


37.2269 
35.9775 
35.0086 
34.2166 
33.5471 
32.9672 
32.4557 
31.9981 
31.5842 
31.2063 
30.8587 
30.6368 
30.2372 
29.9569 
29.6936 
29.4454 
29.2106 


,9103 
,8243 
,7400 
,6502 
5761 
4964 
4181 
3413 
2657 
1915 
1185 
,0467 
,9761 


,7709 
,7046 
6393 
5749 
,5115 
4490 
,887 


2077 
1494 
0919 
0351 
9791 
9237 


28.1960 
28.0187 
27.7484 
27.6845 
27.5265 
27.3741 
27.2269 
27.0845 
26.9466 
26.8130 
26.6833 
26.5574 
26.4351 
26.2261 
26.2003 
26.0876 
25.9775 
25.8703 
25.7656 
25.6634 
25.5636 
25.4660 
25.3705 
25.2771 
25.1857 
25.0961 
25.0084 
24.9224 
24.8381 
24.7483 
24.6742 
24.5945 
24.5162 
24.4394 
24.8638 
24.2896 
24.2166 
24.1448 
24.0742 
24.0047 
23.9863 
23.8690 
23.8027 
23.7874 
23.6730 
23.6096 
23.5471 
23.4855 
23.4248 
23.3649 
23.3058 
23.2475 
23.1900 
23.1332 
23.0772 
23.0218 
22.9672 


CLOTH  STRUCTURE. 


163 


o  i: 


.5 


.5 


SLEY  OR  PICKS. 


90 


91 


.5 


6 


.5 


.5 


.5 


28.2931 
28.1158 
27.9455 
27.7816 
27.6236 
27.4712 
27.3240 
27.1816 
27.0437 
26.9101 


27.2775  27.3725 
27.1396,27.2346 

  27.0060  27.1010 

26.7804  26.8763  26.9713 
26.6545  26.7504  26.8454 
26.7231 


26.5322  26.6281 
26.3232  26.4191 
26.2974  26.3933 
26.1846  26.2805 


.5 


.5 


.5 


39.0849  39.1808  39.2758 
37.5149 
36.2655 
35.2964 
34.5046 
33.8351 
33.2552 
32.7437 
32.2861 
31.8722 
31.4943 
31.1467 
30.8248 
30.5252 
30.2449 
29.9816 
29.7334 
29.4986 
29.2758 
29.0639 


37.3240  37.4199 
36.0746,36.1705 
35.1055  35.2014 
34.3137  34.4096 
33.6442  33.7401 
33.1602 
32.6487 
32.1911 
31.7772 
31.3993 
31.0517 
30.7298 
30.4302 
30-1499 
29.8866 
29.6384 
29.4036 
29.1808 


33.0643 
32.5528 
32.0952 
31.6813 
31.3034 
30.9558 
30.6339 
30.3346 
30.0540 
29.7907 
29.5425 
29.3077 
29.0849 
.5  28.8730 
28.6710 
.5  28.4779 


28.7669 
28.5738 
28.3890 
28.2117 
28.0414 
27.8775 
27.7195 


27.5671  27.6621 
27.4199  27.5149 


93 


93 


28.4840 
28.3067 
28.1364 
27.9725 
27.8145 


26.0746 
25.9674 
25.8627 
25.7605 
25.6607 
25.5631 
25.4676 
25.3742 
25.2828 
25.1932 
25.1055 
25.0195 


26.5141 
26.4883 

  26.3755 

26.1705  26.2655 


26.0624 
25.9577 
25.8555 
25.7557 
25.6581 
25.5626 
25.4692 
25.3778 
25.2882 
25.2005 
25.1145 


24.9352  25.0302 
24.8454  24.9404 
24.7713  24.8663 


24.6916 
24.6133 
24.5365 
24.4609 
24.3867 
,  24.3137 
.5  24.2419 
24.1713 


.5 


24.1018 
24.0334 
23.9661 
23.8998 


.5 


24.7866 
24.7083 
24.6315 
24.5559 
24.4817 
24.4087 
24.3369 
24.2663 
24.1968 
24.1284 
24.0611 
23.9948 


23.9295 
23.8651 
23.8017 
23.7392 


23.8345 
23.7701 
23.7067 

_  23.6442,  

.5123.5826  23.6776 

36  23.5219  23.6169 
.5  23.4620!23.5570 

37  |23.4029i23.4979 
.5  23.3446  23.4396 


38  23.2871 
.5  23.2303 

39  123.1743 
.5123.1189 


23.3821 
23.3253 
23.2693 


26.1583 
26.0536 
25.9514 
25.8516 
25.7540 
25.6585 
25.5651 
25.4737 
25.3841 
25.2964 
25.2104 
25.1261 
25.0363 
24.9622 
24.8825 
24.8042 
24,7274 
24.6518 
24.5776 
24.5046 
24.4328 
24.3622 
24.2927 
24.2243 
24.1570 
24.0907 
24.0254 
23.9610 
23.8976 
23.8351 
23.7735 
23.7128 
23.6529 
23.5938 
23.5355 
23.4780 
23.4212 
23.3652 


23.2139  23.3098 


40    1  23.0643  23.1593  23.2552 


39.369'  , 
37.6088 j 
36.3594 
35.3903 
34.5985 
33.9290 
33.3491 
32.837- 
32.3800 
31.9661 
31.5882 
31.2406 
30.9187 
30.6191 
30.3388 
30.0755 
29.8273 
29.5925 
29.3697 
29.1578 
28.9558 
28.7627 
28.5779 
28.4006 
28.2303 
28.0664 
27.9084 
27.7560 
27.6088 
27.4664 
27.3285 
27.1949 
27.0652 
26.9393 
26.8170 
26.6080 
26.5822 
26.4694 
26.3594 
26.2522 
26.1475 
26.0453 
25.9455 
25.8479 
25.7524 
25.6590 
25.5676 
25.4780 
25.3903 
25.3043 
25.2200 
25.1302 
25.0561 
24.9764 
24.8981 
24.8213 
24.7457 
24.6715 
24.5985 
24.5267 
24.4561 
24.3866 
24.3182 
24.2509 
24.1846 
24.1193 
24.0549 
23.9915 
23.9290 
23.8674 
23.8067 
23.7468 
23.6877 
23.6294 
23.5719 
23.5151 
23.4591 
23.4037 
23.3491 


94 


39.4626 
37.7017 
'36.4523 
35.4832 
34.6914 
34.0219 
33.4420 
32.9305 
32.4729 
32.0590 
31.6811 
31.3335 
31.0116 
30.7120 
30.4317 
30.1684 
29.9202 
29.6854 
29.4626 
29.2507 
29.0487 
28.8556 
28.67 
28.4935 
28.3232 
28.1593 
28.0013 
27.8489 
27.7017 
27.5593 
27.4214 
27.2878 
27.1581 
27.0322 
26.9099 
26.7009 
26.6751 
26.5623 
26.4523 
26.3451 
26.2404 
26.1382 
26.0384 
25.9408 
25.8453 
25.7519 
25.6605 
25.5709 
25.4832 
25.3972 
25.3129 
25.2231 
25.1490 
25.0693 
24.9910 
24.9142 
24.8386 
24.7644 
24.6914 
24.6196 
24.5490 
24.4795 
24.4111 
24.3438 
24.2775 
24.2122 
24.1478 
24.0844 
24.0219 
23.9603 
23.8996 
23.8397 
23.7806 
23.7223 
23.6648 
23.6080 
23.5520 
23.4966 
23.4420 


95 


39.5545 
37.' 

36.5442 
35.6751 
34.7833 
34.1138 
33.5339 
33.0224 
32.5648 
32.1509 
31.7730 
31.4254 
31.1035 
30.8039 
30.5236 
30.2603 
30.0121 
29.7773 
29.5545 
29.3426 
29.1406 
28.9475 
28.7627 
28.5854 
28.4161 
28.2612 
28.0932 
27.9408 
27.7936 
27.6512 
27.5133 
27.3797 
27.2500 
27.1241 
27.0018 
26.7928 
26.7670 
26.6542 
26.5442 
26.4370 
26.3323 
26.2301 
26.1303 
26.0327 
25.9372 
25.8438 
25.7524 
25.6628 
25.5751 
25.4891 
,i5.4048 
25.3150 
25.2409 
25.1612 
25.0829 
25.0061 
24.9305 
24.8563 
24.7833 
24.7115 
24.6409 
24.5714 
24.5030 
24.4357 
24.3694 
24.3041 
24.2397 
24.1763 
24.1138 
24.0522 
23.9915 
23.9316 
23.8725 
23.8142 
23.7567 
123.6999 
123.6439 
23.5885 
23.5.839 


96 


39.6454 
37.8845 
36.6351 
35.6660 
34.8742 
34.2047 
33.6248 
33.1133 
32.6557 
32.2418 
31.8639 
31.5163 
31.1944 
30.8948 
30.6145 
30.351! 
30.1030 
29.8682 
29.6454 
29.4335 
29.2315 
29.0384 
)36 

 '63 

28.5060 
28.3421 
28.1841 
28.0317 
27.8845 
27.7421 
27.6042 
27.4706 
27.3409 
27.2160 
27.0927 
26.8837 
26.8579 
26.7451 
26.6351 
26.5279 
26.4232 
26.3210 
26.2212 
26.1236 
26.0281 
25.9347 
25.8433 
25.7537 
25.6660 
25.5800 
25.4957 
26.4059 
25.3318 
25.2521 
25.1738 
25.0970 
25.0214 
24.9472 
24.8742 
24.8024 
24.7318 
24.6623 
24.5939 
24.5266 
24.4603 
24.3950 
24.3306 
24.2672 
24.2047 
24.1431 
24.0824 
24.0225 
23.9634 
23.9051 
23.8476 
23.7908 
'23.7348 
23.6794 
'23.6248 


97 


98 


99  100 


'354 
,9745 
'251 
'560; 
,9642 
,2947 
7148 
2033 
7457 
3318 
,9539 
.6063 
,2844 
'.9848 
70451 
1.4412 
'.1930 
,95821 
'.7354 
.5235 
3215, 
'.1284, 
,9436' 
,7663 
.5960 
.4321 
.2741 
.1217 
,9745 
,8321 
,6942 
,5606 
,4309 
.3050 
1827 
,9737 
9479 
.8351 
.7261 
6179 
6132 
4110 
3112 
2136 
1181 
,0247 
,9333 
,8437 
,7560 
00 
585' 
4959 
4218 
3421 
2638 
1870 
1114 
,0372 
,9642 
,8924 
,8218 
7523 
,6839 
,6166 
,5503 
4850 
4206 
3572 
2947 
2331 
1724 
1125 
0534 
9951 
,9376 
8808 
8248 
'694 
'148 


39.8245  39.9127  40.0000 
'38.0636  38.1518138.2391 
|36.8142;36.9024,36.9897 
35.8451135.9333  36.0206 
35.0533  35.1415  35.2288 
34.38.38  34.4720134.5593 
33.8039  33.892r33.9794 
.33.2924  33.3806  33.4679 
32.8348  32.9230  33.0103 
32.4209  32.5091  32.5964 


32.0430 
,31.6954 
31.3735 
(31.0739 
130.7936 
30.5303 
30.2821 
30.0473 
29.8245 
29.6126 
29.4106 
29.2175 
29.0327 
28.8564 
28.6851 
28.5212 
28.3632 
28.2108 
28.0636 
27.9212 
27.7833 
27.6497 
27.5200 
27.3941 


32.1312*32.2185 


31.7836 
31.4617 
31.1621 
30.8818 
30.6185 
30.3703 
30.1365 
29.9127 
29.7008 
29.4988 
29.3057 
29.1209 
28.9436 
28.7733 
28.6094 
28.4614 
28.2990 
28.1518 
28.0094 
27.8715 
27.7379 
27.6082 
27.4823 


31.8709 
31.6490 
31.2494 
30.9691 
30.7058 
30.4576 
30.2228 
30.0000 
29.7881 
29.6861 
29.3930 
29.2082 
29.0309 
28.8606 
28.6967 
28.6387 
28.3863 
28.2391 
28.0967 
27.9588 
27.8252 
27.6955 
27.6696 
27.4473 
27.2383 
27.2126 
27.0997 
26.9897 
26.8826 
26.7778 
26.6756 
26.5758 
26.4782 
26.3827 


27.2718  27.3600 
27.0628  27.1510 
27.0370  27.1262 
26.9242  27.0124 
26.8142  26.9024 
26.7070  26.7952 
26.6023  26.6905 
26.5001  26.6883 
26.4003  26.4885 
26.3027  26.3909 

26.2072  26.2954  

26.1138  26.2020  26.2893 
26.0224  26.1106  26.1979 
25.9328  26.0210  26.1083 
25.8451  25.9333  26.0206 
25.7691  25.8473  25.9346 
25.6748  25.7630  25.8503 
25.6850  25.6732  25.7605 
25.6100  25.5992  25.6864 
25.4312  26.5194  25.6067 
25.3629  25.4411  25.5284 
25.2761  25.3643  25.4516 
25.2005  25.2887  25.3760 
25.1263  25.2145  25.3018 
25.0533  25.1415  25.2288 
24.9815  25.0697  25.1570 
24.9109  24.9991  25.0864 
24.8414  24.9296  25.0169 
24.7730  24.8612  24.9486 
24.7057  24.7939  24.8812 
24.6394  24.7276  24.8149 
24.6741  24.6623  24.7496 
24.6097  24.5979  24.6852 
24.4463  24.6345  24.6218 
24.3838  24.4720  24.5593 
24.3222  24.4104  24.4977 
24.2615  24.3497  24.4370 
24.2016  24.2898  24.3771 
24.1425  24.2307  24.3180 
24.0842  24.1724  24.2597 
24.0267  24.1149  24.2022 
•23.9699  24.0581  24.1454 
23.91.39  24.0021  24.0894 
23.8585  23.9467  24.0340 
23.80.39  23.8921  23.9794 


164 


MULTIPLICATION  TABLES. 


The  multiplication  tables  on  the  next  two  pages  show  at 
a  glance  products  of  numbers  1  to  100  multiplied  by  numbers 
1  to  12  inclusive.  To  use  the  tables,  find  the  number  to 
be  multiplied  in  the  left  hand  column  and  follow  its  horizontal 
line  until  the  product  is  reached  in  column  directly  under  the 
multiplier. 

Example:  To  multiply  46  by  9. 

Find  46  in  left  hand  column  and  under  the  column  headed 
by  9  will  be  found  the  product  414,  which  is  the  answer. 

For  products  of  numbers  not  covered  by  the  tables, 
subdivide  the  numbers  into  divisions  that  are  found  in  the 
tables  and  multiply  by  sections  as  shown  in  the  tables. 


I.    Example :    To  multiply  4326  by  97. 

Note  that  4326  is  made  up  as  follows  4000 


300 
20 
6 


Find  97X4  in  table  and  add  three  ciphers=388,000 
97X3  two  ^  29,100 

97X2  one  ^  1,940 

97X6  =  582 


added  together 


=419,622  answer 


II.    Example:    To  multiply  1257  by  6709 


Subdivide  1257== 


1200 
57 


Subdivide  6709= 


6700 
9 


6000 
700 
9 


1200X6700 
1200  X  9 
57X6000 
57 X  700 
57X  9 


=  8,040,000 
=  10,800 
=  342,000 
=  39,900 


513 


added  together 


MULTIPLICATION  TABLES. 


165 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

1 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

2 

4 

6 

8 

10 

12 

14 

16 

18 

20 

22 

24 

3 

6 

9 

12 

15 

18 

21 

24 

27 

30 

33 

36 

4 

8 

12 

16 

20 

24 

28 

32 

36 

40 

44 

48 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

35 

40 

45 

50 

55 

60 

6 

12 

18 

24 

30 

36 

42 

48 

54 

60 

66 

72 

7 

14 

21 

28 

35 

42 

49 

56 

63 

70 

77 

84 

8 

16 

24 

32 

40 

48 

56 

64 

72 

80 

88 

96 

9 

18 

27 

36 

45 

54 

63 

72 

81 

90 

99 

108 

10 

20 

30 

40 

50 

60 

70 

80 

90 

100 

110 

120 

11 

22 

33 

44 

55 

66 

77 

88 

99 

110 

121 

132 

12 

24 

36 

48 

60 

72 

84 

96 

108 

120 

132 

144 

13 

26 

39 

52 

65 

78 

91 

104 

117 

130 

143 

156 

14 

28 

42 

56 

70 

84 

98 

112 

126 

140 

154 

168 

15 

30 

45 

60 

75 

90 

105 

120 

135 

150 

165 

180 

16 

32 

48 

64 

80 

96 

112 

128 

144 

160 

176 

192 

17 

34 

51 

68 

85 

102 

119 

136 

153 

170 

187 

204 

18 

36 

54 

72 

90 

108 

126 

144 

162 

180 

198 

216 

19 

38 

57 

76 

95 

114 

133 

152 

171 

190 

209 

228 

20 

40 

60 

80 

100 

120 

140 

160 

180 

200 

220 

240 

21 

42 

63 

84 

105 

126 

147 

168 

189 

210 

231 

252 

22 

44 

66 

88 

110 

132 

154 

176 

198 

220 

242 

264 

23 

46 

69 

92 

115 

138 

161 

184 

207 

230 

253 

276 

24 

48 

72 

96 

120 

144 

168 

192 

216 

240 

264 

288 

25 

50 

75 

100 

125 

150 

175 

200 

225 

250 

275 

300 

26 

52 

78 

104 

130 

156 

182 

208 

234 

260  i  286 

312 

27 

54 

81 

108 

135 

162 

189 

216 

243 

270 

297 

324 

28 

56 

84 

112 

140 

168 

196 

224 

252 

280 

308 

336 

29 

58 

87 

116 

145 

174 

203 

232 

261 

290 

319 

348 

30 

60 

90 

120 

150 

180 

210 

240 

270 

300 

330 

360 

31 

62 

93 

124 

155 

186 

217 

248 

279 

310 

341 

372 

32 

64 

96 

128 

160 

192 

224 

256 

288 

320 

352 

384 

33 

66 

99 

132 

165 

198 

231 

264 

297 

330 

363 

396 

34 

68 

102 

136 

170 

204 

238 

272 

306 

340 

374 

408 

35 

70 

105 

140 

175 

210 

245 

280 

315 

350 

385 

420 

36 

72 

108 

144 

180 

216 

252 

288 

324 

360 

396 

432 

37 

74 

111 

148 

185 

222 

259 

296 

333 

370 

407 

444 

38 

76 

114 

152 

190 

228 

266 

304 

342 

380 

418 

456 

39 

78 

117 

156 

195 

234 

273 

312 

351 

390 

429 

468 

40 

80 

120 

160 

200 

240 

280 

320 

360 

400 

440 

480 

41 

82 

123 

164 

205 

246 

287 

328 

369 

410 

451 

492 

42 

84 

126 

168 

210 

252 

294 

336 

378 

420 

462 

504 

43 

86 

129 

172 

215 

258 

301 

344 

387 

430 

473 

516 

44 

88 

132 

176 

220 

264 

308 

352 

396 

440 

484 

528 

Loo 

loV/ 

£i^O 

970 

O  LO 

^fiO 

OOl/ 

40^ 

450 

495 

46 

92 

138 

184 

230 

276 

322 

368 

414 

460 

506 

552 

47 

94 

141 

188 

235 

282 

329 

376 

423 

470 

517 

564 

48 

96 

144 

192 

240 

288 

336 

384 

432 

480 

528 

576 

49 

98 

147 

196 

245 

294 

343 

392 

441 

490 

539 

588 

50 

100 

150 

200 

250 

300 

350 

400 

450 

500 

550 

600 

166 


MULTIPLICATION  TABLES. 


1 

1  ! 

2 

3 

4 



5 

6 

7 

— 

8 



9 

10 



11 



12 

51 

102 

153 

204 

255 

306 

357 

408 

459 

510 

561 

612 

52 

104 

156 

208 

260 

312 

364 

416 

468 

520 

572 

624 

106 

159 

212 

265 

318 

371 

424 

477 

530 

583 

636 

54  i 

108 

162 

216 

270 

324 

378 

432 

486 

540 

594 

648 

55  [ 

110 

165 

220 

275 

330 

385 

440 

495 

550 

605 

660 

56  1 

112 

168 

224 

280 

336 

392 

448 

504 

560 

616 

672 

X  ^7  i 

114 

171 

228 

285 

342 

399 

456 

513 

570 

627 

684 

o8 

116 

174 

232 

290 

348 

406 

464 

522 

580 

638 

696 

59 

118 

177 

236 

295 

354 

413 

472 

531 

590 

619 

708 

60  ! 

120 

180 

240 

300 

360 

420 

480 

540 

600 

660 

720 

d1 

122 

183 

244 

305 

366 

427 

488 

549 

610 

671 

732 

62 

124 

186 

248 

310 

372 

434 

496 

558 

620 

682 

744 

63 

126 

189 

252 

315 

378 

441 

504 

567 

630 

693 

756 

64 

128 

192 

256 

320 

384 

448 

512 

576 

640 

704 

768 

65 

130 

195 

260 

325 

390 

455 

520 

585 

650 

715 

780 

Ob 

132 

198 

264 

330 

396 

462 

528 

594 

660 

726 

792 

67 

134 

201 

268 

335 

402 

469 

536 

603 

670 

737 

804 

68 

136 

204 

272 

340 

408 

476 

544 

612 

680 

748 

816 

69 

138 

207 

276 

345 

414 

483 

552 

621 

690 

759 

828 

70 

140 

210 

280 

350 

420 

490 

560 

630 

700 

770 

840 

71 

142 

213 

284 

355 

426 

497 

568 

639 

710 

781 

852 

72 

144 

216 

288 

360 

432 

504 

576 

648 

720 

792 

864 

73 

146 

219 

292 

365 

438 

511 

584 

657 

730 

803 

876 

74 

148 

222 

296 

370 

444 

518 

592 

666 

740 

814 

888 

75 

150 

225 

300 

375 

450 

525 

600 

675 

750 

825 

900 

76 

152 

228 

304 

380 

456 

532 

608 

684 

760 

836 

912 

77 

154 

231 

308 

385 

462 

539 

616 

693 

770 

847 

924 

78 

156 

234 

312 

390 

468 

o46 

624 

702 

780 

858 

936 

79 

158 

237 

316 

395 

474 

553 

632 

711 

790 

869 

948 

80 

160 

240 

320 

400 

480 

560 

640 

720 

800 

880 

960 

81 

162 

243 

324 

405 

486 

567 

648 

729 

810 

891 

972 

82 

164 

246 

328 

410 

492 

574 

656 

738 

820 

902 

984 

83 

166 

249 

332 

415 

498 

581 

664 

747 

830 

913 

996 

84 

168 

252 

336 

420 

504 

588 

672 

756 

840 

924 

1008 

85 

170 

255 

340 

425 

510 

595 

680 

765 

850 

935 

1020 

86 

172 

258 

344 

430 

516 

602 

688 

774 

860 

946 

1032 

87 

174 

261 

348 

435 

522 

609 

696 

783 

870 

957 

1044 

88 

176 

264 

352 

440 

528 

616 

704 

792 

880 

968 

1056 

89 

178 

267 

356 

445 

534 

623 

712 

801 

890 

979 

1068 

90 

180 

270 

360 

450 

540 

630 

720 

810 

900 

990 

1080 

91 

i  182 

273 

364 

455 

546 

637 

728 

819 

910 

1001 

1092 

92 ; 

184 

276 

368 

460 

552 

644 

736 

828 

920 

1012 

1104 

93 

'  186 

279 

372 

465 

558 

651 

744 

837 

930 

1023 

1116 

94 

i  188 

282 

376 

470 

564 

658 

752 

846 

940 

1034 

1128 

95 

1  190 

285 

380 

475 

570 

665 

760 

855 

950 

1045 

1140 

96 

'  192 

288 

384 

480 

576 

672 

768 

864 

960 

1056 

1152 

97 

194 

291 

388 

485 

582 

679 

776 

873 

970 

1067 

1164 

98 

'  196 

294 

392 

490 

588 

686 

784 

882 

980 

1078 

1176 

99 

'  198 

297 

396 

495 

594 

693 

792 

891 

990 

1089 

1188 

100 

200 

300 

i 

400 

500 

600 

700 

800 

900 

1000 

1100 

1200 

FRA  CriONS. 


167 


COMMON  FRACTIONS  WRITTEN 
DECIMALLY. 


1-  64  =  .01563 

2-  64  =    1-32  =  .03125 

3-  64  =  .04688 

4-  64  =    2-32  =  1-16  =  .0625 

5-  64  =  .07813 

6-  64  =    3-32  =  .09375 

7-  64  =  .10938 

8-  64  =   4-32  =  2-16  =  1-8  =  ,125 

9-  64  =  .14063 

10-  64  =    5-32  =  .15625 

11-  64  =  .17188 

12-  64  =    6-32  =  3-16    =  .1875 

13-  64  =  .20313 

14-  64  =    7-32  =  .21875 

15-  64  =  .23438 

16-  64  =    8-32  =  4-16  =  2-8  =  1-4  =  .25 

17-  64  =  .26563 

18-  64  =    9-32  .  .28125 

19-  64  =  .29688 

20-  64  =  10-32  5-16  =  .3125 

21-  64  --=  .32813 

22-  64  =  11-32  =  .34375 

23-  64  =  .35938 

24-  64  =  12-32  =  6-16  =  3-8  =  .375 

25-  64  =  .39063 

26-  64  =  13-32  =  .40625 

27-  64  =  .42188 

28-  64  =  14-32  =  7-16  =  .4375 

29-  64  =  .45313 

30-  64  =  15-32  =  .46875 

31-  64  =  .48438 

32-  64  =  16-32  8-16  =  4-8  =  2-4  =  1-2  =  .5 

33-  64  =  .51563 

34-  64  =  17-32  =  .53125 

35-  64  =  .54688 

36-  64  =  18-32  =  9-16  =  .5625 

37-  64  =  .57813 

38-  64  =  19-32  =-  .59375 

39-  64  =  .60938 

40-  64  =  20-32  =  10-16  =  5-8  =  .625 


168  FRACTIONS. 

41-  64  =  .64063 

42-  64      21-32  =  .65625 

43-  64  .67188 

44-  64  -  22-32  =  11-16  =  .6875 

45-  64  =  .7013 

46-  64      23-32  =  .71875 

47-  64  =  .73438 

48-  64  =  24-32  =  12-16  =  6-8  =  3-4  =  .75 

49-  64  -  .76563 

50-  64  =  25-32  =  .78125 

51-  64  =  .79688 

52-  64  =  26-32  =  13-16  =  .8125 

53-  64  =  .82813 

54-  64  =  27-32  =  .84375 

55-  64  =  .85938 

56-  64  =  28-32  =  14-16  =  7-8  =  .875 

57-  64  =  .89063 

58-  64  =  29-32  =  .90625 

59-  64  =  .92188 

60-  64  =  30-32  -  15-16  =  .9375 

61-  64  =  .95313 

62-  64  =  31-32  =  .96875 

63-  64  =  .98438 

64-  64  =  32-32  =  16-16  =  8-8  =  4-4  =  2-2  =  1.00000 


1-12 

.0833+ 

2-12 

1-6 

.1666+ 

3-12 

1-4 

.25 

4-12 

2-6 

=  1-3  = 

.3333+ 

5-12 

.4166+ 

6-12 

3-6 

=  1-2  = 

.5 

7-12 

.5833+ 

8-12 

4-6 

=  2-3  = 

.6666+ 

9-12 

3-4 

.75 

10-12 

5-6 

.8333+ 

11-12 

.9166+ 

12-12 

1.0000 

SPINDLES.  169 


OVR  TYPES  OF  SPINDLES, 

Since  the  publication  of  the  last  edition  of  our  Textile 
Texts  there  have  been  no  radical  changes  in  the  several  types 
of  our  spinning  spindles.  Improvements  in  processes  of 
manufacture  and  in  tools  and  machinery  are  always  under 
way  and  it  is  a  safe  statement  that  we  make  spindles  that 
are  more  uniform,  and  superior  in  every  respect  to  those 
made  a  few  years  ago. 

All  spindles  now  on  the  market  are  based  upon  inventions 
of  Francis  J.  Rabbeth.  He  was  the  pioneer  inventor  of  the 
self  centering  spindle  which  has  now  come  into  general  use 
both  in  this  country  and  abroad.  His  latest  spindle  with  the 
centrifugal  clutch  drive  has  been  well  received  and  is  being 
more  and  more  generally  adopted.  We  manufacture  the 
well  known  Draper  type  of  spindle  and  have  steadily  and 
continuously  recommended  it  to  the  trade.  We  also 
manufacture  the  McMullan  and  the  Whitin  or  gravity  spindle 
whenever  ordered  by  our  customers  and  can  recommend  our 
products  in  this  line  as  second  to  none  in  the  quality  of 
material  and  care  in  workmanship. 

A  spinning  frame  spindle  is  a  shaft  revolving  at  high 
speed  to  carry  a  bobbin.  This  shaft,  acting  under  the 
influence  of  its  driving  band,  rotates  in  a  position  determined 
by  its  bearings.  In  practice  the  center  of  gravity  of  the 
spindle  and  its  load  is  not  coincident  with  the  geometric 
center.  The  centrifugal  force  of  the  offset  center  of  gravity 
tends  to  cause  the  spindle  to  gyrate.  An  unbalanced  load 
will  cause  this  offset  and  may  be  6arried  to  such  an  extent 
that  the  spindle  cannot  be  run  properly,  thereby  limiting  its 
practical  range  of  speed.  Well  made  and  well  used  bobbins 
will  help  very  much  to  obviate  this  result.  Within  the 
control  of  the  spindle  maker  are  a  number  of  factors  that 
will  keep  the  center  of  gravity  where  it  should  be.  A 
straight,  true  spindle  blade  that  will  continue  to  remain 
straight  and  true  is  of  great  importance.  Accurately  built 
spindle  bolsters  and  round  whorls  contribute  to  the  smooth 
running  and  long  life  of  a  spindle.  All  these  factors  are 
determined  by  the  quality  of  the  material  and  workmanship 
put  into  a  spindle  by  its  maker. 

The  Draper  Company  has  been  most  prominently 
identified  with  the  development  of  the  modern  high  speed 
spindle,  and  throughout  its  history  has  been  its  advocate  and 
leading  introducer.    Years  of  use  and  millions  of  spindles  in 


170 


SPINDLES. 


active  operation  have  endorsed  our  well  known  Draper 
spindles,  known  in  the  trade  as  the  D  2,  D  5  and  D  4. 

The  most  important  recent  development  in  spindles  is 
the  Rabbeth  centrifugal  bobbin  clutch.  This  device  has 
segments  above  the  whorl  so  mounted  that  they  are  free  to 
move  outwardly  under  the  influence  of  centrifugal  force  to 
grip  the  bobbin  when  the  spindle  is  running  at  speed.  The 
force  so  developed  is  enough  to  prevent  the  bobbin  from 
slipping  on  the  spindle.  The  great  advantage  of  this  device 
is  that  the  bobbins  will  all  stand  at  a  uniform  level  on  the 
spindles,  giving  completely  filled  bobbins,  and  on  filling 
bobbins  used  on  feeler  looms  a  properly  located  feeler 
bunch.  With  the  bobbins  easily  removable  there  is  no 
excuse  for  the  doifer  bending  spindle  blades  in  doflfing. 
In  fact,  blades  under  these  circumstances  can  only 
be  bent  by  inexcusable  carelessness,  while  with  the 
ordinary  whorl  and  cup,  the  boy  in  his  hurry  can  easily 
bend  the  spindle  blade  when  the  bobbin  binds.  The  Rabbeth 
centrifugal  clutch  spindle  used  in  conjunction  with  the 
Hastings  bushed  bobbin,  gives  the  maximum  of  efficiency 
in  spinning  and  weaving,  and  in  the  life  of  the  bobbin. 
There  is  less  slack  yarn  and  less  waste  yarn.  All  bobbins 
shrink  and  swell  more  or  less,  especially  those  used  for 
filling;  but  the  clutch  allows  so  loose  a  fit  as  to  give 
more  leeway  in  the  dimension  of  the  bobbin  bore  before 
reaming  is  necessary  and  there  is  no  tendency  whatever  to 
split  bobbins.  We  have  over  three  millions  of  these 
spindles  running,  and  from  our  present  experience  and 
observation  we  believe  their  merits  will  be  universally 
recognized.  A  longer  traverse  means  less  frequent  doffing, 
less  work  at  the  spooler  with  warp  yarn,  and  less  knots  in 
the  warp.  With  filling  yarn  it  means  less  frequent  changing 
of  shuttles  on  common  looms,  less  bobbins  to  place  in  the 
hoppers  on  Northrop  looms  and  less  defects  in  the  cloth 
from  changes  of  filling  with  either  type  of  loom. 

One  important  advantage  of  the  Rabbeth  patent 
centrifugal  clutch  spindle  is  readily  seen  in  the  contrast 
between  the  two  sets  of  bobbins  and  spindles  shown 
herewith. 

The  bobbins  on  the  centrifugal  clutch  spindles  were  all 
taken  from  the  same  frame;  those  on  the  spindles  without  the 
clutch  were  all  from  another  frame;  both  frames  are  in  the 
same  mill;  spinning  the  same  numbers  of  yarn;  and  in  good 
condition. 

The  centrifugal  clutch  bobbins  stand  at  an  absolutely 
uniform  level  on  the  spindles;  the  other  bobbins  vary  in 


SPIXDLES. 


171 


height,  as  is  always  the  case,  thereby  reducing  the  available 
length  of  traverse  and  consequently  the  amount  of  yarn  that 
can  be  carried. 

The  centrifugal  clutch  bobbins  of  same  length  average 
to  contain  fully  ten  per  cent,  more  yarn  than  the  bobbins  on 
spindles  without  the  centrifugal  clutch,  the  spinning  frames 
in  each  case  being  in  good  condition. 


Ten  bobbins  spun  under  average  mill  conditions  on  a 
frame  equipped  with  centrifugal  clutch  spindles. 

Note  that  all  bobbins  rest  on  the  top  of  spindle  whorl  at 
a  uniform  level. 


172 


SPINDLES. 


Ten  bobbins  spun  under  average  mill  conditions  on  a 
frame  equipped  with  solid  whorl  spindles. 

Note  the  variation  in  height  of  bobbins  on  the  spindles. 


SPINDLES. 


173 


While  we  show  several  illustrations  of  our  spindles,  we 
do  not  attempt  to  illustrate  all  the  known  modifications. 
There  are  so  many  different  patterns  of  blades  and  bases 
that  the  combinations  are  almost  endless.  The  blades  are  of 
different  designs  and  different  lengths.  The  whorls  are 
furnished  with  different  cups,  with  no  cup  at  all,  and  with 
the  centrifugal  clutch.  The  bases  are  made  with  the  old 
style  snout,  with  brass  oil-cap  and  steel  retaining  hook;  also 
in  the  Draper  spindle  with  Woodmancy  base,  and  in  the 
Model  E  base.  The  Model  E  base  is  in  two  patterns,  one 
with  round  seat,  the  other  with  a  double  slabbed  seat  to 
avoid  lifting  rods. 

Many  customers  prefer  to  have  all  of  their  spindles  of 
this  double  slabbed  pattern,  although  they  are  not  so  easily 
levelled  by  papering  under  the  rim.  The  Model  E,  made 
under  patent  of  Charles  E.  Lovejoy,  is  more  convenient  for 
oiling;  it  gives  freedom  for  band  knots  to  pass  and  is 
strengthened  at  former  weak  sections;  the  doffer  guards  will 
not  break  as  easily  as  on  the  old  base. 

The  bases  for  the  centrifugal  clutch  spindle  vary  from 
the  regular  standard,  since  with  the  centrifugal  clutch  the 
bolster  is  set  lower  in  the  base,  and  the  base  is  shortened  at 
the  top.  On  account  of  variations  in  patterns,  care  must 
be  taken  in  ordering,  to  specify  accurately  just  what  is 
wanted,  and  if  spindles  are  to  duplicate  old  lots  it  is 
necessary  to  send  a  sample  with  the  order. 


Model  E  Base. 
Double  slabbed  pattern,  viewed  from  above. 

We  furnish  repair  parts  for  all  types  of  spindle,  whether 
originating  in  our  works  or  not.  As  we  have  special  tools  for 
assembling,  it  is  best  to  let  us  do  as  much  of  the  assembling 
as  possible. 


174 


SPINDLES. 


THE  49  D  SPINDLE. 

The  parts  of  the  49  D  spindle,  as  illustrated,  are  not 
wholly  sub-divided,  since  we  do  not  sub-divide  them  in  repairs; 
for  instance,  we  sell  the  spindle  blade  with  the  whorl  and  cup 
attached,  for  these  parts  must  be  assembled  on  special 
machinery  in  order  to  have  them  concentric.  The  blade,  as 
shown,  is  really  in  four  parts,  as  it  has  blade,  whorl,  cup  and 
also  a  brass  collar  forced  on  under  the  whorl,  to  prevent  the 
throwing  out  of  oil.  The  blade  of  the  49  D  spindle  differs 
somewhat  in  section  from  that  of  the  Draper  spindle,  and  we 
recommend  our  customers  to  order  the  regular  Draper  blade, 
as  it  will  fit  in  the  49  D  bolster  and  is  of  stronger  section. 
Note  that  blades  are  made  in  two  regular  lengths,  and  with- 
two  patterns  of  top;  that  is,  the  longer  traverse  blade  has  a 
cylindrical  top,  and  the  shorter  traverse  blade  has  a  tapering 
top.  The  short  traverse  blade  is  shown  in  the  illustration. 
The  cups  are  also  made  in  two  sizes,  one  for  warp  bobbins 
and  the  other  for  filling  bobbins,  the  filling  bobbins  taking  the 
larger  cup. 

The  filling  spindle  with  large  cup  is  designated  as  the 

48  D  spindle  and  it  is  a  duplicate  of  the  49  D  except  in  size 
of  cup. 

The  whorls  are  made  in  several  sizes,  being  usually  either 
%,  ^%6,  or  78  inches  in  diameter  at  the  band  groove. 
The  %  inch  whorl  is  shown  in  the  illustration.  Since  the 
taper  on  the  whorls  of  the  spindles  made  by  different  shops 
varies  slightly,  this  introduces  a  variation  which  necessitates 
accurate  knowledge  of  the  spindle  to  be  duplicated. 

The  49  D  base  is  usually  supplied  with  the  hook,  although 
we  sell  the  hooks  separately;  also  the  brass  oil  caps.  Bases 
are  always  supplied  with  their  retaining  hooks  in  place. 
Nuts  and  washers  are  furnished  separately.  The  bolster  is 
usually  supplied  with  the  packing  attached,  though  we 
can  furnish  packing  in  quantity  desired.  Steps  sometimes 
wear  sufficiently  to  need  replacement,  although  they  are 
carefully  hardened. 

Note  that  our  spindle  whorls  and  bases  are  now  all 
marked  with  the  word  "DRAPER"  enclosed  in  a  rectangle 
with  rounded  corners.  This  mark  signifies  that  the  piece  so 
marked  is  made  by  Draper  Company. 

The  49  D  type  of  spindle  is  made  in  three  sizes,  viz: 

49  D,  the  small;  D  91,  the  medium;  and  D  81,  the  large  size. 


SPINDLES.  175 


SPINDLES.  i 

1 


SPINDLE  BASES. 

In  the  illustrations  on  the  opposite  page  may  be  seen  the 
earlier  form  of  Woodmancy  doffer  guard  in  the  Draper 
No.  2  base  at  left,  and  the  round  Model  E  base  at  right. 


\ 


SPINDLES. 


177 


178 


SPINDLES. 


THE  DRAPER  SPINDLE. 

The  Draper  spindle  differs  from  the  49  D  in  the  following 
particulars: 

The  blade  is  of  a  different  design,  giving  greater  stiffness 
and  strength.  The  illustration  on  page  179  shows  the  long 
traverse. 

The  base  has  the  Woodmaney  doffer  guard  and  oil  cover. 
The  illustration  shows  the  round  Model  E  style. 

The  bolster  and  step  are  united  by  a  spring,  the  step 
being  held  by  a  single  pin  in  the  base.  The  spring  lock 
between  the  bolster  and  step  allows  them  to  be  removed, 
carefully  adjusted  by  hand  and  replaced  in  the  base  without 
danger  of  changing  the  adjustment. 

The  Rabbeth  centrifugal  bobbin  clutch  is  seen  on  this 
illustration.  When  the  clutch  is  used  the  base  is  slightly 
different  since  the  base  top  is  shortened. 

The  Draper  spindle  is  made  in  three  sizes,  viz:  D  2,  the 
small;  D  5,  the  medium;  and  D  4,  the  large  size. 


LARGE  SIZES. 

On  pages  180  and  181  are  seen  large  sizes  of  spinning 
spindles  of  various  forms.    They  are  in  order  as  follows : 

1  D  81  which  is  a  large  size  49  D. 

2  D  4  which  is  a  large  size  D  2. 

3  D  4  in  round  Model  E  base. 

4  D  4  centrifugal  clutch  type  in  round  Model  E  base. 


SPIAWLES.  179 


180 


SPINDLES. 


1 


2 


182 


SPINDLES. 


THE  WHITIN,  OR  GRAVITY 
SPINDLE. 

The  Whitin  spindle  is  one  of  the  well  known  types  which 
is  largely  ordered.  It  has  the  Woodmancy  Doffer  Guard 
and  the  general  dimensions  are  similar  to  those  of  the 
Draper  spindle.  Its  main  points  of  difference  are  in  the 
bobbin  seat,  which  is  usually  made  without  the  cup;  the 
bearing,  which  is  in  one  piece  and  cylindrical  in  bore;  and  in 
the  absence  of  packing  and  means  for  adjustment. 

The  illustration  on  next  page  shows  the  Whitin  spindle 
with  centrifugal  clutch  in  round  Model  E  base.  We  also 
furnish  it  with  or  without  centrifugal  clutch  in  regular  base. 

The  Whitin  spindle  is  made  in  three  sizes,  viz:  small, 
medium  and  large. 


SPINDLES. 


183 


-BLADE 


-  BOLSTER 


184 


SPINDLES, 


THE  McMULLAN  SPINDLE. 

On  page  185  is  shown  the  McMullan  spindle  in  round 
Model  E  base.  We  can  furnish  it  with  centrifugal  clutch 
when  desired.  The  McMullan  spindle  is  made  by  us  to 
duplicate  those  furnished  by  the  Saco-Lowell  shops,  and  we 
can  furnish  any  pattern  of  base. 

The  McMullan  spindle  is  made  in  two  sizes,  viz:  small 
and  large. 


SPINDLES. 


-BLADE 


186 


SPINDLES. 


DRAPER 

SPINDLES. 

The  three  following  cuts  show 
Draper  spindles  in  the  three  sizes 
drawn  in  proportional  scale. 
They  are  the  construction  that  we 
recommend,  and  are  provided 
with  centrifugal  clutch  and  round 
E  model  base  with  Lovejoy  patent 
oil  snout  with  blades  for  long 
traverse. 


SPINDLES. 


188 


SEPARA  TORS. 


THE  SEPARATOR. 

The  development  of  high  speed  spindles  and  the 
ballooning  of  the  yarn  due  to  increased  spindle-speed  led  to 
the  invention  of  the  separator  to  keep  the  yarn  on  adjacent 
spindles  from  coming  in  contact  and  breaking  down. 

We  have  been  closely  identified  with  the  introduction 
and  adoption  of  the  separator  and  are  its  largest 
manufacturer.  The  Rhoades-Chandler  Separator  brought 
out  by  us  superseded  our  earlier  Doyle  type  and  is  now 
the  recognized  standard.  We  recommend  and  furnish  this 
separator  for  changing  over  old  frames  and  also  supply  it  to 
builders  of  new  frames. 

This  separator  can  be  turned  either  up  or  down  for 
doffing.  Our  experience  in  supplying  the  trade  has 
determined  the  shape  and  size  of  separator  to  use  for  the 
varying  speed  of  spindle,  gauge  of  ring,  and  number  of  yarn, 
and  we  have  patterns  to  meet  all  conditions. 


Figure  1. 


The  cuts  show  the  position  the  blades  occupy  with  the 
rail  at  the  lower  part  of  the  traverse,  Figure  1  showing  the 
separators  in  normal  position  with  the  bobbins  removed  from 
the  spindle.  Figure  2  the  blades  turned  down,  and  Figure  3 
the  blades  turned  up  for  doffing.    In  Figure  2  it  will  be 


SEPARATORS. 


189 


noticed  that  one  separator  blade  contacts  with  the  samson 
of  the  frame.    Such  blades  are  provided  with  a  special 


Figure  3. 


190 


RINGS. 


THE  MIRROR  SPINNING  RING. 

trade  mark. 
Reg.  U.  S.  Pat.  Off. 

The  double  flanged  spinning  ring  patented  in  1869  by 
William  T.  Carroll  was  introduced  by  our  predecessors  and 
has  been  manufactured  by  us  in  increasing  quantities  for 
many  years.  While  single  flanged  rings  have  a  limited  sale, 
the  great  majority  of  the  spindles  in  this  country  are  spinning 
yarn  upon  one  of  the  two  flanges  of  a  Draper  Company 
double  ring. 

In  recent  years  the  finish  of  our  rings  has  been  greatly 
improved  by  the  use  of  machines  and  processes  invented  and 
patented  by  one  of  our  superintendents,  Mr.  Frank  H. 
Thompson  and  owned  by  our  Company.  Rings  finished  by 
this  process  make  no  trouble  in  starting. 

In  view  of  the  mirror-like  appearance  of  these  rings  we 
adopted  as  a  trade  mark  the  word  Mirror  and  have 
registered  this  trade  mark  in  the  United  States  Patent  office 
and  also  in  Canada. 

Customers  purchasing  Mirror  spinning  rings  may  rest 
assured  that  they  will  obtain  the  best  that  can  be  furnished 
in  shape,  finish  and  durability. 


Ring  Without  Holder. 


Ring  With  Plate  Holder. 


Ring  With  Cast  Iron  Holder 
AND  Knight's  Patent  Traveler  Clearer. 


SPINNING  RING  FLANGES. 

It  has  been  customary  ever  since  ring  spinning  was  first 
introduced,  to  use  the  standard  or  number  2  width  of  flange 
for  all  classes  of  spinning,  whether  the  ring  was  one  and 
one-quarter  inches  in  diameter,  or  two  and  one-quarter 
inches.  This  system  worked  well  so  long  as  ring  spinning 
was  confined  to  coarse  and  medium  numbers  of  yarn,  but 
with  the  introduction  of  finer  ring-spun  yarn,  it  has  been 
found  advisable  to  reduce  the  width  of  the  flange  so  that  the 
traveler  can  also  be  reduced  in  circle,  and  therefore  use  a 
wire  with  greater  diameter  without  increasing  the  weight. 
A  small  circle  traveler  cannot  be  used  on  the  ordinary  width 
flange,  as  it  will  not  stretch  over  without  breaking.  We 
have  been  selling  the  small  or  number  1  flange  ring  for 
years,  our  sales  having  increased  rapidly.  We  recommend 
it  especially  for  fine  and  medium  numbers,  and  it  is  being 
used  successfully  for  as  large  as  two  inch  rings. 


192 


RINGS. 


Figure  1  Figure  2 


The  above  cuts  are  self-explanatory,  being  drawn  on 
enlarged  scale.  The  number  1  flange  is  shown  in  Figure  1 
and  is  the  narrow  width  to  which  we  refer.  The  number  2 
flange  is  shown  in  Figure  2  and  is  the  old  standard  width. 
We  sell  the  number  1  flange  and  number  2  flange  rings  at 
the  same  price. 


Ring  With  Number  1  Flange 


RINGS. 


193 


PRICES  OF 
MIRROR  SPINNING  RINGS. 

Trade  Mark  Registered  in  U.  S.  Patent  Office  and 
Also  Registered  In  Canada. 


DIAMETER 
IN  INCHES. 

PRICES  OF 
DOUBLE  RINGS. 

With  either  Cast  Iron  or 
Plate  Holder. 

Without  Holder. 

1 

14  cents. 

10  cents. 

1  1-16 

14 

10 

1  1-8 

14 

10 

1  1-4 

14 

10  " 

1  3-8 

14 

10 

1  1-2 

14 

10 

1  9-16 

14 

10 

1  5-8 

14  " 

10 

1  11-16 

15 

11 

1  3-4 

16 

12 

1  13-16 

17 

13 

1  7-8 

18 

14 

1  15-16 

19 

15 

2 

20 

16 

2  1-8 

22 

18 

2  1-4 

24  " 

20 

In  lots  of  5000  or  more,  taken  in  any  one  year,  a  discount 
of  10  per  cent,  will  be  allowed  from  the  above  prices. 

For  guaranteed  round  rings,  add  two  cents  each. 

For  burnished  rings,  add  two  cents  each. 

For  traveler  clearers  with  cast  iron  holders  add  one  cent 
per  ring. 


194 


LIFTING  ROD  CLEANERS. 


SHAW  &  FLINN'S 
LIFTING  ROD  CLBANFR. 

This  simple  and  practical  invention,  which  is  shown  in 
cut  on  opposite  side  full  size  for  three-quarter  inch  lifting 
•  rod,  is  the  result  of  a  necessity  for  something  that  will 
prevent  the  frequent  sticking  of  lifting  rods. 

Everyone  familiar  with  the  details  of  spinning  cotton 
yarn  knows  that  dirt  and  lint  will  adhere  to  the  lifting  rods 
and  be  carried  into  the  bushings  or  guides  set  in  the  frames 
for  the  rods  to  work  in;  this  accumulation  of  dirt  will  wear 
the  rods,  and  sooner  or  later  is  liable  to  stop  one  or  more  on  a 
frame. 

This  attachment  is  made  of  wire,  covered  where  it  passes 
around  the  lifting  rod  with  a  twisted  and  braided  cord,  which 
fits  the  rod  closely,  but  not  tight  enough  to  cause  undue 
friction;  the  elasticity  of  the  wire  and  its  covering  prevents 
any  liability  of  sticking  on  account  of  collection  of  dirt. 
The  two  parts  or  covered  rings  are  formed  at  the  ends  of  one 
piece  of  wire,  which  is  bent  to  pass  over  the  back  side  of  the 
rail  holding  the  bushing  through  which  the  rods  run.  In 
forming  the  cleaner,  sufficient  spring  is  given  to  the  wire  to 
cause  the  rings  to  fit  closely  to  the  top  and  bottom  of  the 
bushing. 

The  lifting  rod  cleaner  has  been  in  successful  use  for 
years.  We  recommend  it  as  a  cheap  and  convenient 
attachment,  requiring  but  a  moment  to  put  on,  effectually 
preventing  wear  and  sticking  of  lifting  rods,  adding  to  the 
neatness  of  frames,  and  reducing  the  amount  of  oil  required 
for  lubricating  the  rods  to  the  least  possible  quantity.  With 
this  device  the  rods  will  not  require  oiling  more  than  once 
in  two  or  three  weeks. 


LIFTING  ROD  CLEANERS. 


195 


Shaw  &  Flinn's  Lifting  Rod  Cleaner. 


196 


LEVER  SCREWS. 


THM  SPEAKMAN  LEVER  SCREW 


has  been  on  the  market  so  long 
that  no  explanation  of  its  working 
or  dissertation  on  its  superiority 
is  needed.  The  illustrations 
herewith  are  self  explanatory. 
Without  interfering  with  the 
operation  of  the  frame  it  can  be 
adjusted  to  any  degree  of 
accuracy.  We  have  sold  over 
4,000,000  of  these  screws  since 
placing  them  on  sale.  We  can 
furnish  them  with  screw  thread  to 
duplicate  old  screws  when 
changing  old  frames.  All  makers 
of  new  frames  include  these  lever 
screws  if  specified  on  the  order. 


f 


SPEED  COUNTERS. 


We  are  prepared  to  sell  speed  counters  like  the  above. 
Connected  with  a  piece  of  rubber  tubing  they  are  of  great 
assistance  in  taking  spindle  speeds. 


BAND  SCALES. 


197 


THn  BAND  TENSION 
SCALB. 

This  device  is  to  the  spinning  room 
what  an  indicator  is  to  the  engine  room. 
It  multiplies  the  efficiency  of  the 
overseer,  or  second  hand,  although  the 
results  are  shown  at  the  coal  pile,  rather 
than  in  their  immediate  departments. 
It  is  important  to  the  spinning  room  to 
have  its  bands  adjusted  to  a  uniform 
scale  of  tension,  so  that  they  will  wear 
longer,  and  protect  the  weave  room 
against  slack  yarn.  The  band  scale 
absolutely  determines  the  exact  tension 
of  any  band,  or  number  of  bands. 

To  use  the  scale,  the  frame  must  be 
stopped,  and  if  the  spindle  is  of  the  old 
type  with  a  hook,  the  hook  must  be 
turned.  The  whorl  of  the  scale  is  then 
applied  by  its  slot,  under  the  whorl  of 
the  spindle,  which  will  thereby  be 
raised,  and  the  band  is  slipped  off  the 
spindle  whorl  onto  the  band  scale  whorl. 
By  drawing  the  lower  whorl  even  with 
the  spindle  whorl,  the  tension  is  shown 
on  the  scale.  New  bands  should  pull 
from  three  to  four  pounds.  It  is  a 
mistake  to  put  them  on  at  any  higher 
tension.  A  spindle  should  run  with  a 
pull  of  one  pound  and  if  it  does  not  turn 
freely  with  this  tension,  it  either  needs 
oiling  or  is  too  tight  in  its  bearings. 

The  band  tension  scale  can  be  made 
to  earn  its  cost  many  times  over  in  a 
very  short  time,  by  intelligent  use. 
Send  sample  spindle  with  order.  This 
is  absolutely  necessary  as  the  whorl  on 
the  scale  must  be  an  exact  duplicate  of 
the  whorl  on  the  spindle. 


198 


BANDING  MACHINE. 


RHOADES  PATENT 
BANDING  MACHINE. 

Our  banding  machine  as  now  manufactured  includes  all 
the  good  features  of  the  original  Weeks  machine  combined 
with  the  Watters  marking  attachment,  Rhoades  patent 
improvement  to  prevent  spattering  the  ink  in  marking,  and 
Rhoades  patent  arrangement  for  making  bands  with  reverse 
twist. 

It  is  semi-automatic  in  action,  changing  from  twisting  to 
doubling,  and  stopping  when  the  band  is  done.  It  can  be  set 
to  obtain  any  desired  amount  of  twist,  making  either  a  hard 
or  a  soft  band.  A  marking  attachment  marks  the  bands  at  a 
uniform  length  to  indicate  where  they  are  to  be  tied;  the 
band  hook  slide  has  a  graduated  scale  so  that  bands  may  be 
made  to  a  predetermined  length;  by  changing  the  position  of 
the  belt  shipper,  bands  can  readily  be  made  with  reverse 
twist. 

At  a  speed  of  about  2000  revolutions  per  minute  an 
operative  can  produce  as  high  as  1500  bands  per  day. 

For  years  our  machines  have  been  the  standard  for 
making  bands  for  spinning  frames,  spoolers  and  twisters. 
We  carry  them  in  stock  both  in  Hopedale  and  Atlanta,  and 
can  fill  orders  promptly. 


Rhoades    Patent    Banding    Machine  Adjusted  for 
Regular  Twist. 


Rhoades    Patent    Banding    Machine    Adjusted  for 
Reverse  Twist. 


METAL  BUSHED  BOBBINS. 


201 


HASTINGS  PATENT 
METAL  BUSHED  BOBBIN. 


For  years  the  injury  to  filling  bobbins  by  the  various 
processes  of  conditioning  yarn  has  been  a  source  of 
annoyance  to  spinners  and  weavers  and  of  expense  to  the 
mills.  In  the  process  of  conditioning,  the  bobbins  swell, 
reducing  the  size  of  the  hole  at  the  bottom,  and  causing 
them  to  stand  at  various  heights  on  the  spindles  in  the 
spinning  frame;  this  calls  for  reaming  to  fit  the  spindles; 
after  repeated  reaming  the  wood  is  so  reduced  that  on 
Northrop  bobbins  the  heads  contract  in  outside  diameter  and 
the  rings  following  the  surface  of  the  wood  become  loose,  or 
fail  to  fit  the  shuttle  springs,  thus  ruining  the  bobbins. 


202 


METAL  BUSHED  BOBBINS. 


The  bobbins  shown  on  page  201  were  patented  by 
Mr.  Walter  M.  Hastings  of  Methuen,  Mass.  and  the  patent  is 
owned  by  our  Company.  The  important  feature  of  its 
construction  is  the  insertion  of  a  metal  bushing  in  the  base 
of  the  bobbin,  opposite  the  rings  on  the  exterior.  This 
bushing  co-operates  with  the  rings  to  hold  the  wood  in  place 
when  subjected  to  extremes  of  heat  or  moisture  and  thus 
secures  much  greater  durability. 

Our  illustrations  show  bobbins  made  for  the  Rabbeth 
Centrifugal  Clutch  spindle  and  for  the  Draper  No.  2  spindle 
with  solid  whorl.  Where  the  centrifugal  clutch  spindle  is 
used  the  bobbins  stand  at  absolutely  uniform  height  on  the 
spinning  frame,  as  the  bottom  of  bobbin  rests  on  the  top  of 
whorl.  With  the  spindle  having  solid  whorl  the  height  of 
bobbins  on  the  frame  is  nearly  the  same,  subject  to  the 
variations  in  shape  of  spindle  whorls  and  bobbins. 

We  began  to  introduce  these  bobbins  about  five  years 
ago.  The  result  of  the  early  sample  orders  was  so 
encouraging  that  several  mills  adopted  this  form  of  bobbin 
as  their  standard.  There  are  now  over  22,000,000  of  such 
bobbins  in  daily  use,  demonstrating  in  a  practical  way  our 
claim  that  this  is  the  best  Northrop  loom  bobbin  on  the 
market  when  viewed  from  the  points  of  eflficiency  and 
economy. 

We  are  prepared  to  furnish  this  bobbin  with  either 
feeler  or  cone  for  Northrop  Looms,  with  any  desired  form  of 
outside  shape,  and  to  fit  centrifugal  clutch  or  other 
standard  patterns  of  spindles. 

In  ordering  these  bobbins  for  solid  whorl  spindles  we  call 
special  attention  to  the  following:  As  above  stated,  the 
whorls  of  spindles  vary  in  size,  and  bobbins  should  be  fitted 
to  samples  having  the  smallest  size  of  whorl.  In  this  case 
the  only  disadvantage  is  that  they  stand  a  little  higher  on 
the  larger  whorls;  whereas  if  bobbins  are  fitted  to  the 
largest  whorls  they  may  ride  loosely  on  the  smaller  whorls 
and  thus  make  slack  yarn. 

Customers  ordering  bobbins  for  solid  whorl  spindles  are 
requested  to  send  a  sample  spindle  with  a  file  mark  on  whorl 
to  locate  bottom  of  bobbin. 


TRAVELER  MAGAZINES. 


•203 


DUCKWORTH'S  PATENT 
TRAVELER  MAGAZINE. 


One  of  the  regular  expenses  of  operating  ring  spinning 
frames  is  the  replacement  of  travelers.  This  expense, 
which  amiounts  to  a  large  sum  in  the  aggregate,  is  due  to  two 
causes.  First,  the  actual  wear,  and  second,  the  loss  of 
travelers  which  are  never  used  at  all.  The  number  lost  or 
thrown  away  is  estimated  by  spinners  to  be  fully  as  great  as 
the  number  actually  used.  Observations  in  spinning  rooms 
sho'w  travelers  distributed  the  entire  length  of  creel  boards, 
also  in  the  pockets  of  doffers  and  spinners  and  other 
convenient  places  from  which  they  are  later  dropped  to 
the  floor  or  throw^n  away. 


204 


TRAVELER  MAGAZINES. 


Travelers  have  a  faculty  of  bunching  together  as  shown 
in  illustration,  so  that  it  is  difficult,  if  not  impossible,  to 
separate  them  without  loss. 

The  Duckworth  Traveler  Magazine  takes  a  bunch  of  the 
travelers,  and  in  regular  operation  drops  them  singly  so  that 
there  is  no  excuse  for  losing  travelers  in  handling. 

An  opening  is  provided  for  a  label  to  indicate  the  size  in 

use. 


A  comparison  of  the  two  illustrations  tells  the  whole 
story.    The  magazine  will  pay  for  itself  in  a  very  short  time. 


YARN-TESTING  MACHINE. 


205 


THB  MOSCROP  PATENT  SINGLE 
THREAD  YARN-TESTING 
MACHINE. 


The  Moscrop  Patent   Single  Thread  Yarn-Testing 
Machine  Arranged  for  Belt  Drive. 

Notwithstanding  the  development  in  textile 
manufacturing  during  the  past  few  years  and  the 
improvements  in  various  machines  used  in  cotton  mills,  one 
process  of  vital  importance  has  been  practically  at  a 
standstill,  namely,  the  accurate  testing  of  yarns. 

In  England,  where  mills  are  divided  between  spinners, 
and  weavers  or  purchasers  of  yarn,  tests  to  determine  the 


206 


YARN-  TESTING  MA  CHINE. 


standard  of  product  are  a  recognized  part  of  doing  business, 
and  the  Moscrop  Single  Thread  Testing  Machine  is  used  to 
settle  the  basis  of  buying  and  selling. 

In  this  country  it  is  equally  important  to  ascertain  the 
quality  of  the  product  even  if  yarns  are  both  spun  and  woven 
in  the  same  mill.  The  weaving  value  of  warp  yarn  does  not 
consist  in  the  joint  strength  of  a  combined  number  of  threads 
but  in  the  regularity  of  the  strength,  and  the  weaveability 
of  the  single  individual  threads.  Therefore  a  completely 
satisfactory  test  must  take  cognizance  of  the  single  individual 
threads. 

The  Moscrop  testing  machine,  for  which  we  have  the 
agency  for  the  United  States,  can  be  used  to  determine  the 
relative  value  of  different  lots  of  cotton,  as  well  as  the 
strength  and  regularity  of  the  yarn  as  influenced  by  the 
spinning  and  other  processes  of  manufacture.  The  fact  that 
some  threads  may  be  very  strong,  and  the  average  strength 
high,  does  not  relieve  the  mill  from  the  consequences  of  loss 
of  production  caused  by  frequent  breakage  of  the  weaker 
threads.  Put  in  concrete  form :  if  in  a  warp  of  2000  threads, 
1500  are  of  superior  working  quality  while  one  in  four,  or  500 
threads,  are  weak  and  irregular,  the  superiority  of  the  three- 
fourths  is  of  little  consequence,  as  the  production  will  be  so 
seriously  hindered  by  the  stoppages  to  piece  up  the  breaks  in 
the  faulty  one-fourth. 

The  Moscrop  machine  is  driven  by  power,  either  motor 
or  belt  as  preferred,  and  takes  six  bobbins  or  cops  of  yarn  at 
one  time,  seizes  the  yarn  ends,  winds  off  a  certain  length, 
and  then  breaks  it  through  spring  pull;  the  breaking  strength 
being  registered  on  a  diagram  paper. 

The  machine  is  provided  with  weights  for  testing  the 
accuracy  of  the  springs. 

Hundreds  of  these  machines  have  been  sold  in  Great 
Britain  and  on  the  continent. 

We  shall  be  pleased  to  make  tests  of  samples  of  yarns 
for  our  customers  if  desired. 


SPOOLING. 


207 


E  Model  Spooler  with  Side  Boxes. 

Since  entering  the  field  in  the  early  seventies,  our 
spooler  has  fixed  the  standard  of  quality  in  general  design, 
effectiveness  in  operation  and  patented  attachments 
furnished.  We  introduced  the  original  Wade  bobbin  holder 
and  the  adjustable  thread  guide,  both  of  which  have  been 
greatly  improved  by  our  own  inventors  in  recent  years.  We 
made  the  first  steel  side  boxes  and  top  creels;  the  first  all 
metal  spooler;  the  first  machine  with  adjustable  feet  for  ends 
and  Sampsons,  and  the  first  single  rail  spooler. 

The  spooling  of  yarn  involves  a  large  amount  of  labor 
per  machine,  or  in  other  words  is  an  expensive  process,  and  it 
is  therefore  important  to  adopt  such  construction  as  will 
improve  the  quality  of  the  output  or  reduce  its 
cost.  Regularity  of  spindle  speed  is  essential  to  obtaining  a 
maximum  product;  slack  bands  are  responsible  for  a  large 
loss  in  production. 


208 


SPOOLING. 


The  operations  of  the  spooler  tender,  when  a  bobbin  is 
empty,  call  for  removal  of  the  empty  bobbin;  introduction 
of  full  bobbin;  and  piecing  up  the  end.  Our  Rhoades 
patent  self  ejecting  bobbin  holder  provides  for  throwing 
out  the  empty  bobbins  without  loss  of  time  and  materially 
increases  the  possible  amount  of  yarn  spooled  per  day.  Our 
patent  traverse  motion  is  convenient  in  changing  the 
traverse  and  our  patent  thread  guides  of  either  the 
Lawrence,  MacColl  or  Improved  Northrop  type  remove 
imperfections  from  the  yarn  to  the  greatest  possible  degree. 

We  offer  our  customers  four  distinct  models  of  spooler, 
namely: 

E  MODEL, 
the  pioneer  single  rail  spooler. 

H  MODEL, 

with  Rhoades  patent  Traverse  motion,  Bobbin  Chutes  and 
side  ejecting  bobbin  holders. 

I  MODEL, 

with  separate  traveling  belts  for  empty  bobbins,  side 
ejecting  bobbin  holders,  and  Rhoades  patent  traverse 
motion. 

L  MODEL, 

with  tape  driven  spindles,  otherwise  with  improvements 
similar  to  I  model. 


SPOOLING, 


209 


E  Model  Spooler  with  Side  Shelves. 


Our  E  Model  Spooler  is  made  entirely  of  metal;  it  is 
equipped  either  with  side  boxes  as  shown  on  page  207  or  with 
side  shelves  for  removable  boxes  as  illustrated  above;  it  may 
be  provided  with  skewers  and  side  friction  strips  for  spooling 
from  cops  or  bobbins  with  filling  wind. 


210 


SPOOLING, 


E  Model  Spooler 
With  Side  Boxes  and  Friction  Strips. 

The  traverse  motion  is  of  the  lifting  rod  type;  a  change 
gear  governs  the  speed  to  produce  a  faster  or  slower 
traverse;  another  gear  determines  the  length  of  traverse. 
A  patented  compound  rocker  arm  prevents  breakage  in  case 
a  spool  gets  under  the  traveling  rocker. 


SPOOLING, 


211 


The  spindle  is  of  single  rail 
pattern  with  Woodmancy 
retaining  lock  and  oil  cap.  In 
banding  the  spindles,  one  band 
drives  two  spindles,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  machine. 


212 


SPOOLING, 


The  Lawrence  Patent  Bobbin  Holder. 
Standard  Pattern. 


Lawrence  Patent  Bobbin  Holder. 
Centre  Draw  Pattern. 


This  spooler  is  equipped  with  the  Lawrence  patent 
bobbin  holder  of  either  the  standard  or  centre  draw  pattern 
as  the  size  of  yarn  may  require. 


SPOOLING. 


213 


We  also  furnish  side  spindles  instead  of  bobbin  holders 
if  desired.  An  end  spindle  for  tangled  yarn  replaces  one 
bobbin  holder  on  each  side  of  every  machine. 


214 


SPOOLING. 


Improved  Northrop  Guide. 


In  thread  guides  we  furnish  several  patterns.  The 
Improved  Northrop  Guide  has  the  lower  jaw  mounted  on  an 
eccentric  bolt  which  provides  an  accurate  adjustment 
without  loosening  on  the  rod.  If  the  slot  becomes  clogged 
the  lower  jaw  may  be  slightly  tipped  thus  exposing  the  edge 
so  that  lint  may  be  removed.  With  all  our  spooler  thread 
guides  the  rod  may  be  turned  to  present  a  new  wearing 
surface  without  changing  adjustment  of  the  guide  jaws. 


Lawrence  Guide. 


The  Lawrence  guide  has  the  lower  blade  held  in 
operative  position  by  a  concealed  spring  which  is  easily 
compressed  when  the  jaw  is  opened  for  removal  of  lint.  A 
separate  screw  adjustment  provides  for  setting  the  jaw  to 
give  the  right  opening  for  the  size  of  yarn  to  be  spooled. 


SPOOLING. 


215 


MacColl  Guide. 


The  MacColl  Guide  works  on  a  different  principle  from 
any  other  guide  on  the  market.  It  does  not  scrape  the  yarn 
but  the  points  of  the  teeth  in  the  comb  on  the  adjustable  jaw 
catch  loose  slubs,  bunches  or  imperfections  that  would  pass 
through  other  guides;  as  it  allows  a  larger  opening  in  the 
setting,  it  will  allow  small  piecings  and  knots  which  are 
unobjectionable  to  pass  through.  The  teeth  in  the  comb 
of  the  MacColl  guide  are  usually  25  per  inch  for  yarns  up  to 
40^;  and  40  per  inch  for  40^  and  finer.  By  the  use  of  gauges 
similar  to  the  illustration  the  guide  can  readily  be  adjusted 
to  the  size  of  yarn. 

The  standard  lengths  of  jaws  in  our  thread  guides  for 
upright  spoolers  are  IJ^  inches  and  2  inches;  all  are  made 
with  longer  jaws  when  desired  for  use  on  winders. 


216 


SPOOLING. 


Gauge  for  Setting 
MacColl  Thread  Guides. 


The  following  table  shows  the  thickness  of  gauges  in 
thousandths  of  an  inch  which  we  recommend  for  different 
numbers  of  yarn. 


GAUGES  FOR    MacCOLL  SPOOLER  GUIDES. 


Yarn 

Yarn 

No. 

Gauge. 

No. 

Gauge. 

10 

.044 

60 

.018 

15 

.040 

65 

.018 

20 

.036 

70 

.016 

25 

.032 

75 

.016 

30 

.028 

80 

.015 

35 

.024 

85 

.015 

40 

.022 

90 

.014 

45 

.022 

95 

.013 

50 

.020 

100 

.012 

55 

.020 

SPOOLING, 


217 


H  Model  Spooler. 

Our  H  Model  spooler  allows  the  empty  bobbins  to  be 
dropped  back  of  the  side  boxes  where  they  pass  into 
chutes  from  which  by  opening  a  slide  they  may  be  dropped 
into  a  box  placed  below.  The  construction  is  made  clear  by 
the  sectional  illustration. 

The  H  Model  spooler  is  made  with  Rhoades  patent 
traverse  motion  which  does  away  with  lifting  rods  and  their 
attendant  troubles. 


218 


SPOOLING, 


Detail  of  Patent  Traverse  Motion. 


By  imparting  a  lengthwise  motion  to  the  rods  carrying 
the  spooler  thread  guides,  wear  and  clogging  of  the  guides  is 
reduced  and  there  is  less  breakage  of  yarn.  This  motion 
is  so  arranged  that  changes  in  length  of  traverse  of  yarn  on 
the  spool  may  easily  be  made;  a  change  of  one  tooth  on 
the  change  gear  varies  the  traverse  inch. 


H  Model  Spooler. 
Sectional  View. 


220 


SPOOLING, 


We  furnish  Rhoades  patent  side-ejecting  bobbin 
holder  which  is  used  only  on  our  chute,  or  belt  spoolers. 
This  bobbin  holder  saves  time  of  the  spooler  tender  in 
changing  bobbins;  a  slight  motion  of  the  hand  will  empty 
several  holders  at  the  same  time. 


Rhoades  Patent  Side-Ejecting  Bobbin  Holder. 


This  bobbin  holder  is  made  with  either  standard  or 
center  draw  as  the  size  of  yarn  may  require. 


SPOOLING,  221 


Rhoades  Patent  Bobbin  Holder. 
Side  Draw. 


Rhoades  Patent  Bobbin  Holder. 
Center  Draw. 

With  coarse  yarn  this  bobbin  holder  is  threaded  in  the 
usual  way,  under  the  wire.  With  fine  yarns  it  is  threaded 
through  the  slot  so  as  to  reduce  the  strain  on  the  yarn  from 
the  bobbin  to  the  spool. 


I  Model  Spooler. 


SPOOLING. 


223 


I  Model  Spooler. 
Sectional  View. 

The  I  Model  Spooler  has  traveling  belts  which  collect 
the  empty  bobbins  in  boxes  at  one  end  of  the  machine. 
Having  two  belts  which  keep  the  bobbins  from  each  side  of 
the  machine  separated,  the  responsibility  for  bad  work  may 
be  readily  placed  where  it  belongs. 


224 


SPOOLING. 


The  bobbin  holders  and  thread  guides  used  on  the  I 
Model  Spooler  are  the  same  as  for  the  H  model.  The 
traverse  motion  is  also  the  same. 


SPOOLING. 


225 


L  Model  Spooler. 

Our  L  Model  Spooler  is  the  latest  construction  on  the 
market  and  has  been  newly  designed  from  the  start  to  meet 
the  requirements  of  our  customers. 

Recognizing  the  fact  that  spooler  spindles  driven  by 
bands  in  the  usual  way  vary  greatly  in  speed  and  that  the 
bands  are  seldom,  if  ever,  replaced  until  they  come  off,  we 
have  made  a  spooler  spindle  to  be  driven  by  a  tape  on  the 
same  general  system  as  our  tape-driven  twister  spindle. 


226 


SPOOLING, 


n 


Each  tape  drives  four  spindles; 
our  patent  equalizing  device 
takes  up  the  slack  and  a 
compensating  weight  regulates 
the  tension  on  each  group  of  four 
spindles. 

By  changing  the  location  of  the 
cylinder  on  the  L  Model  Spooler 
we  are  able  to  keep  the  width 
of  the  machine  at  the  old  limit 
of  four  feet;  at  the  same  time  we 
provide  wider  boxes  and  shelves 
on  the  top  of  the  spooler,  giving 
more  room  for  both  full  and 
empty  spools,  an  important 
consideration  on  coarse  work. 

The  spindles  in  the  machine 
stand  two  inches  nearer  the 
operative  than  in  our  other 
spoolers,  making  that  distance 
less  to  reach  in  piecing  up  the 
ends;  this  renders  the  work  of 
the  spooler  tender  less  tiresome 
and  incidentally  increases  her 
efficiency. 


Tape-driven 
Spooler  Spindle. 


SPOOLING. 


PRODUCTION  OF  SPOOLERS. 


Dimensions 
of  Spool. 

Number 
of 
Yarn. 

Kevolutions  per  minute  of  the 

Number  of 

Rabbeth 
spindles  to 
1  spooler 
spindle, 
running 
at  82.5 
revolutions 
per  minute. 

Cylinder,  200. 
Spindle,  T'SO. 

Cylinder,  220.]  Cvlinder,  S-^O. 
Spindle,    ©2S.  Spindle,  300. 

Length 
between 
heads. 

Diam. 

of 
heads. 

Pounds  per  spindle  per  week  of  GO  hours. 

r  8 

64.3 

70.7 

77.1 

6 

10 

51.4 

56.6 

61.7  [  

 12 

5 

12 

42.9 

47.1 

51.4) 

14 

36.7 

40.4 

44.1  ) 

16 

32.1 

35.3 

38.6  [  .... 

 13 

ri8 

28.6 

31.4 

34.3) 

20 

25.7 

28.3 

30.9) 

22 

23.4 

25.7 

28.1  [  ... 

 14 

24 

21.4 

23.6 

25.7) 

5 

4  

26 

19.8 

21.8 

23.7) 

28 

18.4 

20.2 

22.0  [  

 15 

29 

17.7 

19.5 

21.3  ) 

30 

17.1 

18.9 

20.6  ) 

32 

16.1 

17.7 

19.3  [  

 16 

34 

15.1 

16.6 

18.1 ) 

[36 

14.3 

15.7 

17.1  ) 

 17 

38 

13.5 

14.9 

16.2  i 

3i 

40 

12.9 

14.1 

15.4 

18 

44 

11.7 

12.9 

14.0 

19 

,50 

10.3 

11.3 

12.3 

20 

60 

8.6 

9.4 

10.3 

21 

70 

7.3 

8.1 

8.8 

23 

80 

6.4 

7.1 

7.8 

25 

This  table  applies  to  spoolers  with  6  inch  cylinders  and 
band  driven  spindles  with  1^4  inch  whorls. 


While  our  spoolers  may  be  operated  at  as  high  speeds  as 
those  of  any  other  make,  we  advise  low  speeds  as  they  give 
less  strain  on  the  yarn. 


228 


SPOOLING. 


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1—1 

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05 

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1— t 

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1—1 

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T— 1 

00 
rH 

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1—1 

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1— 1 

05 
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05 

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1— 1 

CO 

(M 

O 
1— 1 

CO 
rH 

CD 
rH 

Gauge 

Diam. 
head  of 
spool. 

No.  of 
spindles. 

o 

CD 

o 

00 

O 
O 
rH 

o 

rH 

O 
lO 

1— 1 

.£  o 

-^      73  . 

5  o  2 

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03—  s-^  ^  o 
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0)  <D 


5  M  o  ^  o 

;g  cs  c^«+H 

o3.5«C 


SPOOLING. 


229 


THE  BOURNB  AND  JOHNSON 
SPOOLER  TENDERS'  KNOT 
TRIMMER. 

As  a  large  share  of  the  warp  breaks  at  the  loom  are 
due  to  bad  knots  at  the  spooler,  the  making  of  perfect 
knots  is  important.  A  spooler's  knot  is  usually  so  tied  that 
the  body  of  the  knot  is  at  one  side  of  the  yarn,  whereas  a 
weaver's  knot  is  smaller  in  diameter  and  is  central  with  the 
yarn;  if  the  spooler's  knot  is  slightly  loose  it  projects  still 
more,  and  if  the  ends  are  not  cut  short  the  protruding  ends 
may  cause  warp  breakage  in  the  loom. 

It  is  a  matter  of  economy  to  educate  the  spooler 
tenders  to  make  small  knots  with  closely  trimmed  ends;  in 
the  knot  tying  process  at  the  spooler  there  is  but  one 
thread  of  yarn  involved  and  the  labor  of  a  cheap  operative, 
while  at  the  loom  every  warp  break  means  the  labor  of  a 
weaver  at  high  wages  and  the  stoppage  of  the  entire  loom 
product  with  perhaps  several  thousand  warp  threads. 

Spooler  knot  tyers,  partially  automatic,  are  used  by 
many  cotton  mills,  but  until  they  are  made  to  tie  weavers' 
knots  and  cut  the  yarn  with  short  ends,  there  is  still  room 
for  invention. 

Meantime  in  mills  where  the  knots  are  tied  by  hand,  the 
Bourne  and  Johnson  cutter  which  we  have  sold  for  years  will 
be  found  a  convenience  to  the  spooler  tender  and  to  reduce 
warp  breakage  in  the  weave  room. 


230 


WARPING. 


WARPERS. 

The  warper  occupies  a  position  between  the  spooler  and 
the  slasher.  The  function  of  the  machine  is  to  wind  a  beam 
of  yarn  from  a  creel  supplied  with  the  number  of  spools  that 
will  give  the  desired  number  of  ends  of  yarn  on  the  beam. 
We  began  the  manufacture  of  warpers  some  forty-five 
years  ago,  soon  after  the  invention  of  the  slasher.  We 
have  introduced  practically  all  the  improvem^ents  which  are 
found  on  modern  warpers,  including  the  rise  roll;  the  slow 
motion  for  starting;  the  small  cylinder,  which  made  possible 
a  reduction  in  both  height  and  width  of  the  machine;  the 
Hicks'  cone  drive  which  increased  the  production;  the 
Walmsley  stop  motion;  the  Rhoades  beam  doffer;  the  best 
expansion  combs;  the  glass  creel  step;  the  Straw  breakage 
recorder,  etc. 

As  warping  is  a  relatively  inexpensive  process  and  an 
equipment  of  warpers  for  a  mill  represents  but  a  small 
proportion  of  the  total  cost  of  its  machinery,  no  mill  can 
afford  to  operate  warpers  that  do  not  contain  the  most 
improved  devices.  It  is  also  important  to  purchase  a 
sufficient  number  of  warpers  to  handle  the  entire  output 
with  the  machines  running  at  moderate  speed.  In  warping, 
as  in  spooling,  high  speeds  increase  the  breakage  of  the 
yarn,  thereby  multiplying  the  number  of  knots;  also  the 
increased  strain  on  the  yarn  due  to  high  speeds  reduces  its 
elasticity. 

Among  the  improvements  which  we  strongly  recommend 
are  the'follovdng: 

The  Hicks'  Cone  Motion  ;  this  cone  drive  compensates 
for  the  difference  in  tension  between  the  full  and  nearly 
empty  spools;  by  increasing  the  speed  of  the  warper  when 
the  spools  are  full  and  gradually  reducing  as  they  are 
emptied,  the  cone-motion  without  adding  to  the  strain  on 
the  yarn  will  increase  the  net  product  of  the  warper  about 
one-third.  In  equipping  a  new  mill  the  reduced  number 
of  machines  and  saving  in  floor  space  is  an  important 
consideration.  It  is  safe  to  figure  that  four  cone  warpers 
will  do  the  work  of  five  warpers  without  the  cone  drive. 


WARPING. 


231 


The  Rhoades  Beam  Doffer;  the  use  of  this  device 
makes  it  easy  for  one  man  to  remove  the  full  beam  of  warp 
and  put  in  a  new  beam  where,  without  the  beam  doffer,  two 
men  would  be  a  necessity. 


Beam  Doffer. 


The  Small  Cylinder;  by  using  an  eccentric  drive  we 
can  allow  the  beam  head  to  overlap  the  centre  of  the 
cylinder  enabling  us  to  use  much  larger  beam  heads.  This 
feature  as  well  as  the  beam  doffer  is  shown  in  the  above 
cut.  By  the  use  of  the  small  cylinder  the  warper  is  made 
both  lower  and  narrower  so  that  the  ends  may  be  tied  in 
with  greater  ease. 

The  Walmsley  Stop  Motion;  this  stop  motion  uses 
a  hinged  wire  which  relieves  the  yarn  from  weight  as 
compared  v/ith  the  old  drop  wire  system;  our  warper  stop 
motions  are  provided  with  a  locking  bar  and  eccentric 
release  which  enable  the  removal  of  a  group  of  wires  at 
any  point;  the  illustrations  show  the  locking  bar  in  position 
and  also  raised  for  removal  of  a  section  of  drop-wires.  The 
stop  motion  is  furnished  with  two  banks  of  drop  wires  for 
450  ends  or  less;  for  more  than  450  ends  we  recommend  three 
banks. 


WARPING. 


Locking  Bar  Raised  for  Removal  of  wires. 


WARPING, 


233 


In  Creel  Steps  we 
furnish  the  patent  glass 
steps  which  we  recommend 
for  yarns  No.  40s  and  finer 
and  for  coarser  numbers  if 
tender  or  with  large  spools 
carrying  a  heavy  load. 


Our  Iron  Creel  Steps 
are  standard  for  ordinary 
numbers  and  conditions;  the 
projection  on  the  side  of  the 
step  keeps  the  head  of  spool 
from  rubbing  against  the 
creel. 


234 


WARPING. 


For  Measuring  we  have  substituted  seamless  drawn 
brass  tubing  for  the  tin  rolls  formerly  used,  as  the  tubing  is 
much  more  uniform  in  circumference  and  more  nearly  round. 

The  Straw  Breakage  Recorder  is  furnished  at  a 
small  additional  charge  w^hen  ordered  and  is  a  valuable 
attachment  for  detecting  and  recording  the  number  of  times 
a  warper  stops  for  broken  threads;  a  dial  with  pointer  shows 
this  breakage  at  a  glance. 

Our  Slow  Motion  reduces  the  strain  on  the  yarn  in 
starting  the  warper. 

Our  Improved  Expansion  Reeds  and  Combs  are  so 
arranged  as  to  allow  freedom  of  movement;  the  round  wires 
in  our  front  combs  present  a  smoother  surface  to  the  yarn 
than  flat  wires  and  the  regular  spacing  winds  the  yarn  so  as 
to  make  a  smoother  beam. 

We  make  several  varieties  of  warper  reeds  and  combs. 

1st.  The  front  comb,  or  comb  next  the  beam.  This  is 
open  on  the  top. 

2nd.  The  lease  comb.  This  is  used  when  leasing 
motion  is  ordered. 

3rd.  The  back  comb.  This  is  similar  to  the  front  comb, 
but  has  in  addition  a  V  rod  placed  about  3  inches  behind  it  to 
hold  the  ends  from  the  upper  half  of  the  creel  down  between 
the  wires. 

4th.  The  back  reed,  which  has  a  hand-rail  directly  over 
and  covering  the  tops  of  the  wires.  We  make  two  kinds  of 
back  reeds,  the  high  and  the  low. 

The  maximum  number  of  ends  in  a  standard  comb  can  be 
reduced  20  per  cent,  by  the  expansion  apparatus. 


WARPING.  235 


High  and  Low  Back  Reeds,      Front  and  Back  Combs. 


236 


WARPING. 


No.  1  Warper  Clock  without  Register. 

For  clocks  we  illustrate  those  most  frequently  called  for. 

The  No.  1  Clock  is  usually  furnished  to  stop  the  warper 
at  10  wraps  or  less  of  3,000  yards  each.  It  may  be  built  for 
wraps  as  low  as  252  yards  and  as  high  as  5,000  yards. 


No.  1  Warper  Clock  with  Register. 


The  Register  has  a  dial  reading  the  total  yards  up  to  the 
maximum,  which  may  be  as  low  as  1,200  or  as  high  as  12,000 
yards. 


WARPING, 


237 


The  No.  3  or 
Change  Gear  Clock 
may  be  arranged  for  as 
low  as  20  yards  and  as 
high  as  750  yards.  This 
is  used  mostly  on  ball 
warpers  and  is  more 
expensive  than  the 
simple  wrap  clock.  It 
can  be  furnished  with 
or  without  register. 


No.  3  Change  Gear  Warper 
Clock  with  Register. 


The  No.  5  Clock  is 
used  with  warpers 
measuring  from  the 
cylinder. 

It  is  usually  furnished 
to  stop  the  warper  at  10 
wraps  or  less  of  3,000  yards 
each.  It  may  be  built  for 
wraps  as  low  as  1,000  yards 
each  and  to  any  practical 
maximum  requirement. 


No.  5  Warper  Clock. 


238 


WARPING, 


For  fine  yarns  we  make  special  warpers  which  measure 
from  the  cylinder  and  provided  with  roller  bearings,  thus 
reducing  the  strain  on  the  yarn.  For  coarse  yarns  and  mills 
where  the  maximum  length  on  beam  is  important  we  make 
warpers  which  will  take  beams  with  as  large  as  32  inch 
heads. 

Our  standard  warpers  are  as  follows: 


C  Model  Warper. 


The  C  Model  Warper  can  be  furnished  with  18  inch 
cylinder  using  beams  with  24  inch  heads  or  with  20  inch 
cylinder  using  beams  with  26  inch  heads;  with  or  without 
cone  motion;  with  or  without  beam  doffer;  measures  from 
measuring  roll;  with  plain  or  change  gear  clock;  with  or 
without  register;  with  lease  motion  if  so  ordered. 


WARPING. 


239 


E  Model  Warper. 


E  MODEL  WARPER. 

See  illustrations  on  this  page  and  next.  Has  12  inch  low 
cylinder;  measures  from  measuring  roll;  uses- beams  up  to  26 
inch  heads  with  two  banks  of  drop  wires  but  is  limited  to  25 
inch  heads  if  stop  motion  with  three  banks  of  wires  and  lease 
motion  are  used;  with  or  without  cone  motion  and  beam 
doffer;  with  plain  or  change  gear  clock;  with  or  without 
register;  with  lease  motion  if  so  ordered. 


240 


WARPING, 


WARPING. 


241 


F  Model  Warper. 


Special  machine  for  fine  yarns;  measures  from  cylinder 
32  inches  in  circumference;  roller  bearings  for  carrier  rolls; 
takes  beams  with  24  inch  heads  if  they  have  9  inch  or  12  inch 
barrels  and  drop  wires  in  two  banks;  with  three  banks  of 
drop  wires  and  lease  motion  limited  to  23  inch  heads. 
Specially  light  beams  and  beam  heads  may  be  furnished  with 
this  warper;  built  with  or  without  cone  motion  and  beam 
doffer;  lease  motion  if  so  ordered;  has  plain  clock;  may  be 
constructed  to  measure  from  a  measuring  roll  if  desired  in 
which  case  it  is  furnished  with  plain  or  change  gear  clock, 
and  with  or  without  register. 


242 


WARPING. 


G  Model  Warper. 


This  model  is  similar  to  the  F  Model,  but  made  for 
coarser  yarns;  measures  from  cylinder  41  Vi  inches  in 
circumference;  takes  beams  with  heads  up  to  28  inches 
having  9  inch  barrels;  built  with  or  without  cone  motion  and 
beam  doffer;  lease  motion  if  so  ordered;  has  plain  clock. 


K  Model  Warper. 

For  same  numbers  of  yarns  as  G  Model;  has  low  cylinder 
measuring  411/7  inches;  measures  from  measuring  roll;  takes 
beams  with  heads  up  to  28  inches  having  9  inch  barrels;  built 
with  or  without  cone  motion  and  beam  doffer;  lease  motion  if 
so  ordered;  with  plain  or  change  gear  clock;  and  with  or 
without  register. 


WARPING. 


243 


Special  machine  for  coarse  yarns;  low  cylinder,  48  inches 
in  circumference;  measures  from  measuring  roll;  takes  beams 
up  to  32  inch  heads  with  9  inch  barrels  if  with  two  banks  of 
drop  wires;  with  three  banks  of  drop  wires  and  lease  motion 
limited  to  30  inch  beam  heads;  furnished  with  or  without 
cone  motion  and  beam  doffer;  with  plain  or  change  gear 
clock;  with  or  without  register;  lease  motion  if  so  ordered. 


244 


WARPING. 


L  Model  Warper. 


For  very  heavy  yarn;  measures  from  measuring  roll 
which  roll  also  acts  as  a  drawing  roll  to  draw  the  yarn 
through  the  warper;  uses  same  size  of  beam  heads  as  I  model; 
with  or  without  beam  doffer;  no  cone  motion;  with  plain  or 
change  gear  clock;  with  or  without  register;  with  lease 
motion  if  so  ordered. 


WARPING, 


245 


While  we  expect  to  furnish  warpers  such  as  our 
customers  may  order,  we  emphasize  the  importance  of  the 
machine  measuring  from  cylinder  on  yarns  40s  and  finer;  of  the 
cone  motion  for  all  numbers;  of  the  beam  doffer  for  all 
warpers;  and  of  the  machines  taking  large  beam  heads  for 
coarse  yarns;  also  all  of  the  warpers  having  low  cylinders 
compared  with  the  old  style  high  cylinders  which  are  not  as 
convenient  for  the  help. 

The  following  will  be  found  approximately  correct,  and 
convenient  for  reference. 

Weight  of  yarn  on  a  spool  with  barrel  IJ^  inches  in 
diameter. 

With  5  inch  head  and  6  inch  traverse  1.9  lbs. 
With  5  inch  head  and  5  inch  traverse  1.6  lbs. 
With  4  inch  head  and  5  inch  traverse  1.0  lbs. 
With  33^  inch  head  and       inch  traverse  0.7  lbs. 

Weight  of  yarn  on  a  beam  5434  inches  between  heads 
and  with  a  9  inch  barrel. 

With  32  inch  heads  670  lbs. 
With  30  inch  heads  580  lbs. 
With  28  inch  heads  500  lbs. 
With  26  inch  heads  420  lbs. 
With  24  inch  heads  350  lbs. 
With  22  inch  heads  285  lbs. 
With  21  inch  heads  255  lbs. 

To  find  the  number  oj  pounds  of  yarn  on  a  beam. 

Rule:  Multiply  the  sum  of  the  diameters  of  the  barrel 
and  beam  heads  by  the  difference  of  their  diameters,  then 
multiply  by  .7854,  and  then  multiply  by  the  length  between 
the  heads,  giving  the  cubic  inches  of  yarn  on  the  beam  when 
full. 

Example:   With  a  beam  9"  barrel  and  24"  head,  and 

between  heads: 
9 +24  X 15  X .  7854  X  54^  =21090. 935+ cubic  inches 

yarn  in  full  beam. 

21090.935-^-60  =  351+(pounds). 

To  obtain  the  length  of  the  ijarn  on  beam. 

Rule:  Multiply  number  of  yarn  by  840,  which  gives  the 
number  of  yards  in  one  pound,  then  multiply  by  number  of 
pounds  of  yarn  in  beam.  Divide  the  product  by  number  of 
ends  run  in  warper  to  find  the  length  of  warp.  Where 
weights  are  used  on  the  beam  arms  about  20  per  cent,  more 
yarn  can  be  wound  on. 


246 


WARPING. 


Pulleys  are  ahnxys  10  inches  in  diameter. 
Outer  pulleys  2  inches  face  each. 
Center  pulley  1  1-8  inches  face. 
3-16"  allowed  for  spaces  between  pulleys. 


Pulley  on  counter  shaft  should  be  6  in.  face  to  cover 
loose  and  slow  motion  pulleys  on  Warper. 


V  Creel. 


REGULAR 

SIZES  OF  V 

WARPER 

CREELS. 

360  Spools, 

12x  15 

512  Spool 

s,   16  X  16 

364 

13  X  14 

532 

14  X  19 

384 

12  X  16 

540 

15  X  18 

390 

13  X  15 

544 

16x17 

392 

14  X  14 

570 

15  X  19 

416 

13  X  16 

576 

16x18 

420 

14  X  15 

600 

15  X  20 

448 

14  X  16 

608 

16x  19 

450 

15  X  15 

640 

16x20 

476 

14  X  17 

680 

17x  20 

480 

15  X  16 

720 

18  X  20 

504 

14  X  18 

750 

15x25 

510 

15  X  17 

800 

16  X  25 

lA 

I 


<  5  5-16' 


WARPING. 


247 


WARPER  PRODUCTION. 

The  tables  of  warper  production  printed  in  our  former 
catalogues  have  been  based  on  the  old  standard  18-inch 
cylinder  warper,  requiring  much  figuring  to  adapt  the  tables 
to  our  later  machines.  We  now  not  only  build  warpers  with 
various  sizes  of  cylinder,  but  we  complicate  the  problem  by 
adapting  our  cone  drive  to  most  of  them;  in  fact  we  sell 
more  with  the  cone  drive  than  without.  To  present  tables 
that  would  meet  every  possible  variation  in  practice  would 
require  a  book  by  itself,  and  we  think  it  will  be  more 
convenient  to  have  one  theoretical  table  and  give  rules  by 
which  to  determine  any  individual  requirement.  Since  the 
hours  of  labor  vary  in  different  mill  sections,  our  table  is 
worked  out  on  an  hour  basis.  Our  former  table  was 
based  on  the  assumption  that  the  warper  would  be  stopped 
one-third  of  the  time.  Such  an  assumption  cannot  be 
generally  applicable,  however,  since  the  time  lost  in  running 
not  only  depends  on  the  kind  and  quality  of  yarn  warped, 
but  also  9n  the  amount  of  help  used  in  tying  in  ends,  and  the 
number  of  warpers  given  each  operative.  Our  table  is  now 
based  on  a  supposedly  continuous  run,  allowing  each  to  figure 
out  the  time  actually  lost  in  his  own  regular  practice.  If  the 
speed  of  the  mill  is  variable,  allowance  must  be  made  and  a 
proper  average  speed  used  in  the  calculations. 

The  following  rules  show  how  the  table  itself  was 
prepared,  and  how  to  figure  results  without  table. 

To  find  the  production  of  a  warper  at  any  given  speed  without 
the  use  of  tables. 

Rule:  Multiply  the  number  of  the  yarn  warped  by  840 
to  find  the  number  of  yards  per  pound.  Divide  the 
number  of  yards  per  hour  at  speed  chosen  by  the  number  of 
yards  per  pound  and  the  quotient  equals  the  pounds  per  hour 
warped  of  one  strand  of  yarn;  multiply  the  pounds  per  hour 
of  one  strand  by  the  number  of  ends  in  the  warp  to  give  the 
pounds  per  hour  of  the  full  warp  based  on  continuous 
production. 

Multiply  the  pounds  per  hour  full  product  by  the  working 
hours  per  week  making  such  allowance  as  may  be 
determined  for  stops;  this  final  product  will  be  the  actual 
pounds  per  week. 


248  WARPING. 

Example:  Speed,  50  yards  per  minute,  No.  20  yarn; 
410  ends  on  beam;  what  is  product  per  week  of  58  hours 
assuming  warper  to  run  two-thirds  of  the  time? 

20  X  840  =  16,800  =  number  of  yards  of  No.  20  yarn 
in  one  pound. 

50  X  60  =  3,000  =  yards  per  hour  at  speed  of  50 
yards  per  minute. 

3,000     16,800  =  .1786  =  pounds  per  hour  warped  of 

one  strand  of  yarn. 

.1786  X  410  =  73.226  =  pounds  per  hour  of  full  warp. 

58  X  2  =  116     3  =  38.66  +  =  hours  per  week  of 

warper  run. 

73.226  X  38.66     2830.9  +  =  pounds  per  week. 

Answer. 


WARPING. 


249 


TABLES  OF  WARPER  PRODUCTION. 
In  pounds  per  hour  for  different  numbers  of  yarn. 
The  figures  given  are  for  one  strand. 


Num- 

YARDS 

PER  MINUTE. 

ber  of 

yarn. 

30 

35 

40 

45 

50 

oo 

60 

6 

.3571 

.4167 

.4762 

.OoO< 

.6548 

.7143 

7 

.3061 

.3571 

.4082 

p\i  no 

.5612 

.6122 

8 

.2679 

.3125 

.3571 

AA(\A 

.4911 

.5357 

9 

.2381 

.2778 

.3175 

.oO<  1 

.OvOo 

.4365 

.4762 

10 

.2143 

.2500 

.2857 

.OOt  1 

.3929 

.4286 

12 

.1786 

.2083 

.2381 

9AI7Q 

9Q7ft 

.3274 

.3571 

14 

.1531 

.1786 

.2041 

90QA 

.tiOOL 

.2806 

.3061 

16 

.1339 

.1563 

.1786 

99Q9 

.2455 

.2679 

18 

.1190 

.1389 

.1587 

.1  ( oD 

.iyo4 

.2183 

.2381 

20 

.1071 

.1250 

.1429 

.iOU< 

.1  ( oD 

.1964 

.2143 

22 

.0974 

.1136 

.1299 

.1401 

1 A9Q 

.1786 

.1948 

24 

.0893 

.1042 

.1190 

1  QQQ 

1 1QQ 
.i4oo 

.1637 

.1786 

26 

.0824 

.0962 

.1099 

1  9QA 

1  Q7/4 
.10<  4 

.1511 

.1649 

28 

.0765 

.0893 

.1020 

1 1  /IQ 

.1403 

.1531 

30 

.0714 

,0833 

.0952 

.  WJi  1 

1 1  on 
.iiyu 

.1310 

.1429 

32 

.0670 

.0781 

.0893 

.1004 

.1116 

.1228 

.1339 

34 

.0630 

.0735 

.0840 

.0945 

.1050 

.1155 

.1261 

36 

.0595 

.0694 

.0794 

.0893 

0992 

.1091 

.1190 

38 

.0564 

.0658 

.0752 

!0846 

10940 

.1034 

.1128 

40 

.0536 

.0625 

.0714 

.0804 

.0893 

.0982 

.1071 

42 

.0510 

.0595 

.0680 

.0765 

.0850 

.0935 

.1020 

44 

.0487 

.0568 

.0649 

.0731 

.0812 

.0893 

.0974 

46 

.0466 

.0543 

.0621 

.0699 

.0776 

.0854 

.0932 

48 

.0446 

.0521 

.0595 

.0670 

.0744 

.0818 

.0893 

50 

.0429 

.0500 

.0571 

.0643 

.0714 

.0786 

.0857 

54 

.0397 

.0463 

.0529 

.0595 

.0661 

.0728 

.0794 

60 

.0357 

.0417 

.0476 

.0536 

.0595 

.0655 

.0714 

66 

.0325 

.0379 

.0433 

.0487 

.0541 

.0595 

.0649 

70 

.0306 

.0357 

.0408 

.0459 

.0510 

.0561 

.0612 

80 

.0268 

.0313 

.0357 

.0402 

.0446 

.0491 

.0536 

90 

.0238 

.0278 

.0317 

.0357 

.0397 

.0437 

.0476 

100 

.0214 

.0250 

.0286 

.0321 

.0357 

.0393 

.0429 

To  use  table  apply  the  following  rules. 

To  determine  the  product  at  another  speed. 

Rule:  Look  at  table  for  answer  given  for  the  same  yarn 
under  first  column.  Divide  by  30  and  multiply  by  speed 
known. 

Example:  If  speed  is  52  yards  per  minute  to  ascertain 
the  product  of  a  single  strand  of  No.  18  yarn. 

Answer  for  No.  18  yarn  under  first  column  is  .1190. 

.  1190-^  30  =  .003966  + 

.003966  X  52  =  .2062  +  Answer. 

To  determine  the  product  with  any  given  number  of  ends  on 
beam. 

Rule:  Multiply  the  product  of  single  strand  at  known 
speed  by  number  of  ends. 

Example:  Given  410  ends  on  beam  find  the  product  per 
hour  of  continuous  running  with  No.  18  yarn  warped  at  speed 
of  52  yards  per  minute. 


250 


WARPING, 


Find  answer  for  single  strand  as  before  =  .2062. 

.2062  X  410  =  84.542  Answer. 
For  week  of  60  hours  with  warper  running  two-thirds  of 
the  time  the  product  would  be: 

60  X  2  =  120     3  =  40 

40  X  84.542  =  3381.68  Answer. 

To  find  the  speed  of  driving  pulley  on  imrper  to  give  any  desired 
speed  of  imnding. 

First:    For  warper  without  cone  drive. 

Rule:  Take  assumed  speed  of  winding  and  reduce  it  to 
inches  per  minute;  divide  this  by  circumference  of  warper 
cylinder  in  inches;  multiply  by  known  relation  of  cylinder 
speed  to  pulley  speed. 

Draper  warpers  have  the  following  dimensions  and 
pulley  relations. 

When  without  Cone  Drive. 

Turns  of  pulley 
to  one  turn 
of  cylinder. 


C  model  18  inch  cylinder 

=  56.549  in.  circumference 

5.44 

C  model  20  inch  cylinder 

=  62.832  in.  circumference 

5.44 

E  model  12  inch  cylinder 

=  37.7  in.  circumference 

3.94 

F  model  32  in.  circumference 

5. 

G  and  K  models  41.143  in.  circumference 

4.63 

I  and  L  models  48  in.  circumference 

6.25 

Example: 

Assume  55  yards  per  minute  as  desired  speed  on  an  E 
model  warper  with  12  inch  cylinder;  what  is  speed  of  driving 
pulley? 

55  X  36  =  1980  =  inches  in  55  yards. 
12  X  3.1416  =  37.7  =  inches  in  circumference  of 
cylinder. 

1980  ^  37.7  =  52.52. 

Note  relation  of  speeds  gives  3.94  between  cylinder  and 
pulley  on  E  model. 

52.52  X  3.94  =  206.93  =  turns  per  minute  of  pulley. 

Answer. 

To  find  driving  pidley  speed  ivhen  Warper  is  driven  by  Cone 
Fidleys, 

Rule :  Take  assumed  speed  of  winding  and  reduce  it  to 
inches  per  minute  as  before. 


WARPING.  251 

Divide  this  by  circumference  of  warper  cylinder  in 
inches;  multiply  by  known  relation  of  cylinder  speed  to 
pulley  speed  at  the  position  determined  by  the  belt  on  the 
cone.  As  usually  run  the  average  relation  would  be  properly 
used. 

Draper  warpers  have  the  following  relation  of  cones  to 
cylinder. 

i  High  8.9 

C  model,  18  and  20  inch  cylinders       \  Average  6.675 
18  inch  circumference  =  56.549  in.      (  Low  4.45 
20  inch  circumference  =  62.832  in. 

(  High  5.89 

E  model,  -j  Average  4.40 

37.7  circumference  (Low  2.91 

(  High  8. 

F  model  •      \  Average  6. 

32  in.  circumference  (  Low  4. 

G  and  K  models  {  High  6.66 

41.143  circumference  \  Average  5. 

(  Low  3.33 

I  model  (  High  8. 

48  in.  circumference  \  Average  6. 

( Low  4. 

Example : 

Assume  55  yards  per  minute  as  desired  speed  and  E 
model  warper  as  before. 

55  X  36  =  1980  inches  in  55  yards. 
Circumference  E  model  cylinder  =  37.7  in. 
1980  -^-  37.7  =  52.52. 

If  warper  is  run  with  belt  traveling  equally  on  each  side 
of  the  center  of  the  cone  the  driving  pulley  will  average  to 
turn  4.40  times  the  cylinder  rotations. 

52.52  X  4.40  =  231.09  =  speed  of  driving  pulley  on 
warper.  Answer. 

To  find  size  of  shaft  pulley  for  given  speed  of  tvarper  pulley. 

Rule :  Take  speed  of  rotation  of  warper  pulley,  multiply 
it  by  10  (since  warper  pulley  is  10  inches  in  diameter)  and 
divide  product  by  speed  of  shaft. 

Example: 

Suppose  shaft  rotates  200  times  per  minute. 
Suppose  speed  of  warper  pulley  is  231.09  as  in  above 
example;  what  is  size  of  pulley  needed  on  shaft  ? 

231.09  X  10  =  2310.9  -^  200  =  11.5  +  Answer. 
Pulley  on  shaft  should  be  11.5 -f  inches  in  diameter. 
(It  ought  never  to  be  less  than  6  inches.) 


Walcott  Chain  Warper. 


WARPING. 


253 


THB   WALCOTT  CHAIN 
WARPER. 

This  machine  has  for  years  been  the  acknowledged 
standard  for  producing  long  chains  of  500  to  1,200  ends. 
Our  experience  has  shown  that  the  disadvantages  in  handling 
more  than  1,200  ends  in  one  creel  due  to  the  loss  of  product 
caused  by  the  stops  for  piecing  up  ends,  etc.,  more  than 
offset  the  advantages,  and  we  consider  1,200  ends  the 
maximum  limit  for  economy. 

Our  illustrations  show  a  full  view  of  the  machine 
followed  by  detailed  illustrations  of  each  end.  The  machine 
shown  is  provided  with  the  well  known  Walmsley  stop 
motion. 

We  furnish  a  linking  motion  when  ordered. 
One  of  these  warpers  will  do  more  and  better  work  than 
three  circular  or  upright  warpers. 


Walcott  Warper.    Head  End. 


254 


WARPING. 


Walcott  Warper.    Delivery  End. 


See  table  on  page  255  for  arrangement  of  spools  in 
creels  for  different  numbers  of  ends  and  floor  space  required 
for  creels  with  different  sizes  and  numbers  of  spools. 

The  length  of  Walcott  warper  frame  without  stop  motion 
is  10  feet;  with  stop  m.otion  12  feet. 

The  space  between  holey  board  and  creel  is  about  2  feet 
and  6  inches. 

If  skewers  are  used  they  should  be  l^io  inches  longer 
than  spools. 

Driving  pulley  is  10  inches  diameter  for  a  2  inch  belt. 


WARPING. 


255 


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256 


WARPING. 


Rhoades  Patent  Cylindrical  Ball  of  Yarn. 


BALL  WARPERS 
AND 

BALLING  MACHINES. 

For  mills  that  desire  to  use  the  chain  warping  process 
rather  than  beam  warping,  we  furnish  machines  that  wind 
the  warps  in  a  cylindrical  ball  with  square  ends  as  shown  in 
the  above  illustration.  Where  the  warps  are  shipped  in  a 
ball  it  is  of  advantage  to  the  shipper  to  put  up  the  yarn  in  an 
attractive  form  with  ends  that  do  not  bulge  and  with 
carefully  laid  courses.  Our  Mr.  Rhoades  by  a  modification 
of  the  thread  of  the  balling  machine  traverse-screw  has 
succeeded  in  laying  the  courses  so  as  to  make  such  a  package 
and  we  have  patented  the  cylindrical  ball  of  yarn  as  so 
wound. 


WARPING. 


257 


Our  Balling  Machine  is  provided  with  a  patent 
measuring  arrangement  with  the  clock  and  register  on  the 
floor  stand  which  measures  direct  from  the  pulley;  this 
pulley  has  large  contact  surface  with  the  chain  of  yarn 
which  is  less  liable  to  slip  and  the  measuring  is  more  accurate 
and  the  balls  therefore  more  uniform  in  length  than  when 
measured  by  a  measuring  roll.  The  clock  is  arranged  to  stop 
the  warper  so  that  a  thread  lease  can  be  taken  at  any  point 
in  the  chain  that  may  be  desired.  Two  short  balls  may  be 
wound  at  one  time  in  place  of  one  large  ball  by  a  modification 
of  the  worm  and  connecting  parts. 


258 


WARPIXG. 


Our  arrangement  on  the  warper  for  holding  bitting 
spools  enables  the  ready  insertion  or  removal  of  a  spool  on 
the  same  size  of  skewer  that  is  used  in  the  creel. 

The  ball  is  wound  by  contact  with  two  rolls  directly 
connected  with  the  warper  which  give  ample  driving  power. 

Straw's  Leasing  Motion  is  more  simple  and  effective 
than  any  other  of  which  we  have  knowledge.  We  can  equip 
the  warper  with  a  pin  leasing  motion  if  desired. 

We  furnish  either  Iron  or  Glass  Creel  Steps  in  the 
warper  creels  as  may  best  meet  the  requirements  of  the 
mills. 

We  use  the  Walmsley  Stop  Motion  on  our  ball  warpers 
same  as  shown  and  described  in  the  article  on  beam  warpers; 
also  the  same  range  of  Reeds  and  Combs  and  with  the  same 
limits  as  to  numbers  of  ends,  expansion  and  contraction. 

Our  Leasing  Combs  are  made  with  open  tops  the  same 
as  our  other  expansion  combs. 

For  illustrations  and  description  of  ball  warper  devices 
which  are  the  same  as  used  on  our  beam  warpers  refer  to 
preceding  pages,  viz:— 

Iron  and  Glass  Creel  Steps,  page  233. 

Walmsley  Stop  Motion  and  Drop  Wires,  pages  231 
and  232. 

Reeds  and  Combs,  pages  234  and  235. 

Warper  Clocks  and  Registers,  pages  236  and  237. 

W^e  make  two  distinct  types  of  ball  warper. 

In  one  the  balling  machine  is  applied  to  a  beam  warper 
and  constitutes  an  alternative  arrangement;  in  the  other  the 
warper  has  no  cylinder  and  the  balling  mechanism  is  an 
integral  part  of  the  machine  with  no  provision  for  beam 
warping. 

We  can,  if  desired,  furnish  balling  machines  arranged  to 
run  the  yarn  up  over  a  pulley,  where  it  is  important  to  save 
floor  space  but  we  do  not  consider  this  as  desirable  as  the 
standard  construction  shown  and  described  in  the  following 
pages. 


WARPING, 


259 


E  Model  Warper  with  E  Model  Balling  Machine. 


This  balling  machine  can  only  be  applied  to  our  *'E*' 
model  warper;  it  is  bolted  to  the  warper;  it  has  but  one 
driving  roll  and  the  cylinder  of  the  warper  takes  the  place 
of  the  second  roll;  it  cannot  be  used  in  a  warper  without  a 
cylinder;  has  change  gear  clock  and  register  located  on  floor 
stand;  also  has  a  measuring  roll  with  plain  clock  on  warper 
side  for  beam  warping  for  which  the  machine  is  adapted. 
Can  be  furnished  with  change  gear  clock  and  register  on 
warper  side  as  shown,  and  in  this  case  a  plain  floor  stand 
without  clock  is  used;  can  be  arranged  to  wind  either  one 
or  two  balls,  and  for  any  regular  length  of  traverse. 


260 


WARPING. 


This  machine  is  adapted  for  ball  warping  only,  the 
cylinder  being  omitted  from  the  warper;  clock  and  register 
are  located  on  floor  stand.  This  is  our  standard  ball  warper, 
and  can  be  built  to  wind  one  or  two  balls  as  preferred,  and  of 
any  regular  length  of  traverse. 

This  balling  arrangement  can  also  be  applied  to  our 
standard  C,  E,  F,  I  and  K  model  warpers. 


262 


WARPING. 


G  MODEL  WARPER 
WITH 

G  MODEL  BALLING  MACHINE. 

The  G  Model  Balling  Machine  is  shown  on  page  261 
applied  to  our  G  model  warper  with  cylinder,  making  it 
adaptable  to  either  ball  or  beam  warping.  When  used  for 
ball  warping  the  measurements  are  obtained  from  clock  and 
register  on  floor  stand;  for  beam  warping  a  clock  is  furnished 
on  warper  side  measuring  from  cylinder.  This  balling 
machine  can  be  applied  to  our  C,  E,  F,  I,  K  and  L  models 
in  similar  manner.  Can  be  arranged  to  wind  one  or  two  balls 
as  ordered,  and  for  any  regular  length  of  traverse. 


WEIGHT  OF  CHAIN  WARPS. 

To  find  the  v:eiglit  of  a  vmrp  chain,  the  number  of  ends,  the 
length  in  ijards  and  the  mimber  of  the  yarn  being  kiioicn. 

Rule:  Point  off  decimally  two  places  in  the  number  of 
ends  and  two  places  in  the  number  of  yards  (or  four  places  in 
the  number  of  yards);  multiply  one  by  the  other  and  the 
product  by  the  constant  for  the  given  number  of  yarn;  the 
result  will  be  the  number  of  pounds  in  the  chain. 

Example:  Given  a  chain  of  5000  yards  containing  400 
ends  of  No.  24  yarn. 

50. 00 X 4. 00=200.  X . 496=99. 2  lbs.  =  Answer. 

Proof. 

840X24=20160=yards  per  lb. -1-400=50. 4=yds.  per  lb.  of 
400  ends. 

5000-f-50.4=99.2=ibs.  in  5000  yards  as  before. 
To  figure  constant,  divide  11.904762  by  the  number  of  the 
yarn. 


WARPING. 


263 


TABLE    OF    CONSTANTS    FOR   FIGURING  THE 
WEIGHT  OF  NUMBERS  1  TO  100  WARP  YARNS 
IN  THE  CHAIN. 

No.  Yarn.     Constant.     No.  Yarn.      Constant.  No.  Yarn.  Constant. 

1  11.904762  35  34  69  1725 

2            5.952  36  3307  70  17 

3            3.968  37  3218  71  1677 

4            2.976  38  3133  72  1654 

5            2.3808  39  3053  73  1631 

6            1.984  40  2976  74  1609 

7            1.7006  41  2904  75  1587 

8            1.488  42  2835  76  1567 

9            1.3228  43  2769  77  1546 

10            1.19  44  2706  78  1526 

11            1.0822  45  2645  79  1507 

12  992  46  2588  80  1488 

13  9158  47  2533  81  147 

14  8503            48             .248  -82  1452 

15  7936  49  2429  83  1434 

16  744  50  238  84  1417 

17  7003  51  2334  85  14 

18  6614  52   229  86   1384 

19  6265  53  2246  87  1368 

20  5952  54  2205  88  1353 

21  5669  55  21^4  89  1338 

22  5411  56  2126  90  1323 

23  5176  57  2089  91  1308 

24   496  58  2053  92  1294 

25  4761  59  2018  93  128 

26  4579  60...  1984  94  1267 

27  4409  61  1951  95  1253 

28  4252  62  192  96  124 

29  4105  63  189  97  1227 

30  3968  64  186  98  1215 

31  384  65  1832  99  1203 

32  372  66  1804  100  119 

33  3608  67  1777 

34  3501  68  1751 


264 


WARPING, 


Change  Gears  for  Balling  Machine  Clock. 

This  table  to  be  used  with  Rhoades'  Clocks  on  all  models  of 
Warpers. 


0) 

<u 

0 

6 

m 

in 

CO 

m 

CO 

% 

u 

03 

% 

m 

05 

a> 

u 

C4 

(y 

u 

w 

C4 

(U 

u 

05 

CO* 

<A 

ft 

<A 

ft 

ft 

2 

M 

53 

0) 

ft 

\A 

CS 

<u 

ft 

ft 

2 

u 

a 

c 

u 
v 

i 

1 

% 

u 

U 

u 

0 

0 

u 

0 

u 

> 

ft 
n 

i 

1 

ft 

tn 

0 

1 

I 

0 

ft 

03 

-H 

0) 

S 

ft 

xn 

03 
0) 

i 

0 

ft 

\ 
0 

2 

0 

0 

irds  p 

cS 

B 
S 

d 

ft 

cS 

ft 

d 

1 

-l-> 

d 

0. 

d 

& 

d 

0 

« 

iS 

0 

M 

0 

"A 

0 
« 

\  1 

20  100  20 

74'l00 

74' 1 

141 '100  47 

8 

220 

1 

30  66 

1 

308 

25 

1 

408' 100 

68 

6 

21  100  21 

75  100 

75 

142  50 

71 

990 

100  37 

6 

310 

30 

93 

1 

410 

20 

82 

1 

22  100  22 

76  100  76 

144 

50 

72 

224 

50  56 

2 

312 

25 

78 

1 

413  100 

59 

7 

23  100  23 

77 

100 

77 

145 

40 

58 

225 

32 

72 

1 

315 

100  63 

5 

414 

100 

69 

6 

24  100  24 

78  100 

78 

146 

50 

73 

228 

50  57 

2 

316 

25 

79 

1 

415 

20 

83 

1 

25  100  25 

79  100 

79 

147 

100 

49 

230 

30  69 

1 

318 

100  53 

6 

416 

100 

52 

8 

26  100  26 

80 

100  80 

148 

50 

74 

231 

100 

<  7 

3 

320 

25  80 

1 

420 

20 

84 

1 

27 

100  27 

81  100  81 

150 

40 

60 

232 

50  58 

2 

322 

100  46 

7 

423 

100 

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< 

SLASHING. 


265 


SLASHER  COMBS. 

In  the  process  of  slashing  warp  yarns  it  has  been 
customary  to  use  a  single  comb  with  upright  teeth  to  divide 
the  warp  sheet  evenly  so  that  an  even  beam  may  be  wound. 
This  comb  separates  the  threads  into  a  series  of  groups;  the 
threads  of  each  group  take  a  position  one  above  another,  so 
that  each  group  is  traveling  in  a  vertical  plane  towards  the 
beam. 

As  the  beam  and  press  rolls  are  in  a  horizontal  position, 
the  several  groups  of  threads  must  change  from  a  vertical  to 
a  horizontal  plane  when  wound  upon  the  beam. 

In  the  old  way  this  change  is  accomplished  at  random; 
some  groups  turn  to  one  side,  and  some  to  the  other;  often 
they  reverse.  As  a  result  of  this  lack  of  regularity,  ''slasher 
rolls,''  so-called,  form  in  the  beam  of  yarn  which  make 
trouble  in  the  weave  room.  These  slasher  rolls  cause 
''hitch-backs"  and  warp  breakage  which  reduce  the  quantity 
and  injure  the  quality  of  the  cloth  woven. 

To  obviate  these  troubles  we  offer  the  Morrill  patent 
slasher  comb,  which  is  of  greatest  value  on  high  sley  and 
plain  goods,  and  yarns  with  high  twist;  also  the  Rhoades' 
patent  slasher  comb  which  we  recommend  for  low  sley 
goods,  stripes,  colored  work  and  for  general  use. 


The  Morrill  Slasher  Comb. 

The  Morrill  Slasher  Comb  is  so  constructed  that  the 
threads  are  laid  on  the  warp  beam  in  regular  sequence. 

The  improvement  consists  in  placing  a  second  comb 
having  slanting  teeth  in  front  of  the  regular  comb;  this 
second  comb  also  has  its  teeth  offset  horizontally  with 
relation  to  the  teeth  in  the  back  comb.  The  slanting  of  the 
teeth  in  the  front  comb  and  their  offset  with  relation  to  the 


266 


SLASHING. 


vertical  teeth  in  the  back  comb  give  the  groups  of  threads  a 
quarter  turn  and  hold  them  firmly  so  they  will  not  change 
their  relation  either  to  adjacent  threads,  or  to  adjacent 
groups  of  threads. 

As  the  warp  threads  cannot  roll  or  turn  over  upon  each 
other,  '^slasher  rolls"  and  ''draws"  are  eliminated.  By 
their  use  the  operator  can  strike  in  the  warps  and  thus  save 
time  over  counting  in  the  ends. 

The  combs  are  made  adjustable  in  the  usual  manner; 
the  application  to  the  slasher  is  simple;  the  device  is  easy  to 
operate  and  does  not  interfere  with  the  working  of  the 
slasher.  The  two  combs  are  so  connected  that  both  may  be 
operated  as  one,  or  each  adjusted  separately,  as  may  be 
required. 

These  combs  have  been  in  use  for  several  years;  the}^ 
have  shown  an  improvement  in  the  preparation  of  the  warps 
in  all  cases;  in  a  test  at  one  mill  ten  per  cent,  more  cloth  was 
produced  in  the  weave  room. 


Detailed  View  of  Morrill  Comb. 


SLASHING. 


267 


The  Rhoades  Slasher  Comb,  the  teeth 
of  which  have  two  prongs  each  where  the 
warps  run,  doubles  the  number  of  separations 
in  the  warp  and  largely  prevents  the  threads 
from  sticking,  rolling  over  and  crossing; 
beams  slashed  where  this  comb  is  used  run 
much  better  in  the  weave  room  and  show  an 
improvement  in  the  quality  of  the  cloth 
produced. 


Rhoades  Patent  Double-Dent  Slasher  Comb. 


268 


CHAIN  D  YE  IMG. 


Straw's  Winding  Machine. 


The  Straw  system  and  machines  for  applying  and 
removing  the  binding  yarn  used  on  long  chains  in  the 
bleachery  or  dye-house  are  among  the  most  important 
improvements  in  their  field  that  we  have  introduced. 

By  this  system  the  yarns  are  kept  in  proper  relative 
position  in  passing  through  the  boiling-box  and  dyeing 
process  and  until  ready  to  be  beamed  or  quilled.  In  the 
unwinding  machine  the  binding  yarn  is  removed  and  wound 
upon  a  spool  in  condition  to  be  used  again  for  the  same 
purpose,    or   to   be   utilized   with    similar   yarn    in  the 


CHAIN  DYEING. 


269 


manufactured  goods.  The  use  of  this  system  will  make  a 
saving  of  at  least  one-half  the  cost  of  beaming,  while  in 
the  weave-room  the  improvement  in  the  condition  of  the 
yarn  will  make  an  additional  saving  of  as  much  more, 
besides  insuring  a  better  quality  of  product. 

The  illustration  shows  a  winding  machine  of  four 
spindles,  but  this  number  may  be  more  or  less  to  meet  the 
conditions  in  each  individual  case.  The  binding  yarn  is  seen 
in  cones  from  which  it  is  led  to  the  point  where  it  is  wrapped 
around  the  chains  of  passing  yarn. 

The  illustration  of  unwinding  machine  on  page  270  shows 
its  simplest  form.  After  the  wrapped  chains  have  been 
bleached  or  colored  and  dried,  the  thread  coiled  around  the 
chain  must  be  unwrapped  before  the  chains  are  rewound 
either  onto  beams  for  warp  yarns  or  onto  bobbins,  if  for 
filling. 

The  unwinding  machine  as  shown  unwinds  the  wrapping 
yarn  from  the  chain  and  winds  it  upon  a  large  spool  as  seen 
in  the  centre  of  the  machine.  In  case  the  ratio  of  the  linear 
speed  of  the  chain  and  the  rotary  speed  of  the  flier  becomes 
out  of  proportion  the  operative  must  change  the  relative 
speed  so  as  to  prevent  breakage  of  the  yarn,  etc. 

To  avoid  bad  work  and  reduce  the  cost  of  operation  the 
unwinding  machine  may  be  provided  with  an  automatic 
regulating  device  as  shown  in  illustration  on  page  271.  The 
use  of  this  device  enables  an  operative  to  care  for  more 
miachines  and  at  the  same  time  do  better  work  and  with  less 
labor. 

The  winding  and  unwinding  machines  are  in  general  use 
in  nearly  all  the  important  colored  goods  mills  of  the 
country. 


270 


CHAIN  D  YEING, 


Unwinding  Machine 
Without  Patent  Regulating  Device. 


CHAIN  D  YEING. 


271 


Unwinding  Machine 
With  Connelly  Patent  Regulating  Device. 


272 


TWISTING, 


G  Model  Twister. 


TWISTING. 


273 


TWISTIB^RS. 

Soon  after  the  introduction  of  the  Sawyer  spindle,  about 
forty  years  ago,  recognizing  the  call  for  an  improved 
machine,  our  predecessors  designed  and  placed  upon  the 
market  the  first  twister  containing  high  speed  spindles. 
This  machine  was  in  advance  of  the  times  in  twister 
construction;  the  spindles  weighed  but  one-half  the  weight  of 
the  old  common  spindles  previously  in  use,  and  they  turned 
off  a  greater  product  per  spindle  at  a  large  saving  in 
power.    Since  that  time  we  have  brought  out  many  other 


Twister.    Geared  End  with  Covers  Removed. 


274 


TWISTING. 


improvements,  including  the  Rabbeth  spindle;  the  box  rail 
construction  for  twister  frame;  the  Hetherington  spindle 
brake;  the  all-metal  top  and  creel;  the  Smith  stop  motion; 
Rhoades'  novelty  yarn  attachments;  adjustable  feet  for 
Sampsons;  etc. 

In  the  process  of  twisting  it  is  desirable  to  use  spindles 
adapted  to  as  high  speed  as  consistent  with  the  character  of 
the  yarn  to  be  twisted.  This  in  turn  calls  for  machines  with 
plenty  of  material  and  designed  with  view  of  carrying  the 
load  with  the  least  possible  vibration. 

Our  twisters  are  very  heavy;  all  joints  in  the  frames  are 
machined  together;  the  sampsons  have  adjustable  feet  to 
accommodate  variations  in  floor  level;  the  gears  in  head  end 
are  all  protected  by  covers  held  in  place  by  automatic  locking 
devices;  the  spindle  rails  are  of  heavy  box  pattern;  the 
ring  rails  are  provided  with  deep  flanges  making  them  rigid 
and  are  made  in  short  sections  with  two  lifting  rods 
each;  all  gears  on  our  twisters  are  machine  cut,  have  wide 
faces  and  are  interchangeable;  we  arrange  our  twist  gears 
directly  on  the  end  of  cylinder  shaft,  thereby  securing  a 
greater  range  with  less  changes,  and  the  gears  make  less 
noise  when  in  motion;  the  traverse  motion  is  fitted  for 
change  gears  so  that  the  speed  of  the  ring  rail  can  be 
adjusted  without  changing  the  twist;  by  use  of  a  lever 
clutch  the  worm  of  traverse  motion  can  be  thrown  out  of 
gear  so  that  the  ring  rail  may  be  lowered  at  any  time  when 
necessary;  the  spindles  used  in  our  twisters  are  of  the 
Rabbeth  type  and  are  made  in  our  own  works,  by  machines 
of  our  special  design  which  insure  accuracy  and  uniformity 
in  all  particulars. 

The  illustrations  of  our  number  105  spindle  show  details 
as  usually  made.  The  bolster  is  locked  by  a  spline  which 
enters  a  slot,  and  the  step  is  held  in  place  by  a  spring 
connection  which  can  be  readily  changed  in  position  when 
adjustment  is  necessary.  These  spindles  are  made  in  four 
sizes:— 

Number  105,  used  with  rings  up  to  and  including  23^  inch. 
Number  106,  used  with  rings  2%  to  334  inch. 
Number  107,  used  with  rings  3><  to  4  inch. 
Number  108,  used  with  rings  434  and  434  inch. 
We  can  furnish  the  number  105  spindle  with  centrifugal 
clutch  bobbin  drive,  if  desired. 


TWISTING. 


Number  105  Spindle. 


With  Patent 
Centrifugal 
Clutch. 


TWISTING. 


Draper 


With  Solid 
Whorl. 


TWISTING, 


277 


Our  twister  rings  have  the  benefit  of  over  forty  years' 
experience  in  the  manufacture  of  rings  and  in  hardness, 
finish,  uniformity  and  roundness  are  the  best  that  can  be 
produced.  We  illustrate  the  several  types  of  rings  used  on 
our  twisters.  With  vertical  twister  rings  3  inch  diameter  or 
more  we  recommend  the  Carter  oiling  device  which 
lubricates  the  traveler  below  its  contact  with  the  yarn 
thereby  allowing  a  material  increase  in  speed. 


Narrow  Vertical  Ring  in  Plate  Holder. 


Double  Ring  with  Flat  Top  in  Cast  Iron  Holder. 


278 


TWISTING. 


Single  Ring  with  Flat  Top. 


Wide  Vertical  Ring. 


C'"' Oiling  Devi' 

Tor  Vertical  Ivvister  Rings. 


Oil  hole 


PLUG- 


TWISTING, 


279 


The  Smith  Tv/ister  Stop  Motion  is  the  only  practical 
device  for  the  purpose  that  has  ever  been  placed  on  the 
market.  Its  use  on  two-ply  work  eliminates  waste;  prevents 
roller  laps;  enables  the  help  to  tend  more  spindles;  and  in 
some  cases  allows  the  speed  to  be  increased.  If  a  band 
breaks  on  a  spindle  the  stop  motion  will  hold  the  end  until 
the  new  band  is  applied. 

Broken  ends  are  held  in  place  and  do  not  lash  around  to 
break  others.  The  stop  motion  does  not  unthread  during 
the  process  of  doffing. 

With  more  than  two  ply,  it  stops  only  when  the  entire 
thread  breaks  in  front  of  the  rolls. 

The  extension  of  sheet  metal  at  the  back  makes  a  signal 
which  indicates  to  the  operator  when  an  end  is  broken. 

This  stop  motion  is  not  recommended  for  wet  twisting 
and  can  only  be  applied  where  a  single  line  of  top  and  bottom 
rolls  is  used,  with  the  yarn  delivered  from  the  under  side  of 
the  bottom  roll,  as  shown  in  illustration. 

The  device  is  of  much  more  value  on  worsted  than  on 
cotton  yarn  owing  to  the  greater  value  of  the  waste  saved. 

We  are  prepared  to  furnish  these  stop  motions  for 
twisters  of  other  make. 


280  TWISTING 

n 


Heavy  Twister  Spindle  with  Brake. 

Our  twister  spindles  may  be  provided  with  spindle 
brakes,  which  are  important  on  the  heavy  spindles.  We 
illustrate  the  number  108  spindle  with  brake  as  it  would 
be  mounted  on  the  rail  of  the  twister;  the  friction  pad  is 
lined  with  leather  and  pressure  of  the  knee  against  the 


TWISTING. 


281 


overhanging  part  of  the  brake  quickly  stops  the  spindle. 
The  brake  can  be  readily  disconnected  if  desired.  A  guard 
rail  is  applied  to  the  front  of  the  twister  to  protect  the 
brakes  from  injury  by  passing  trucks. 

We  usually  build  twisters  to  twist  from  horizontal 
spools  located  in  creels  at  the  top  of  the  machines.  We  can 
make  them  to  twist  from  beams  if  desired;  also  to  twist 
from  upright  tubes  or  bobbins;  in  the  last  named 
arrangement  Rhoades'  patent  combination  step  or  bearing 
gives  a  choice  between  a  glass  step  which  reduces  the 
friction  and  a  cast  iron  step  with  more  contact  surface  when 
more  friction  is  needed. 

For  the  novelty  yarns  which  can  be  made  on  ring 
twisters  we  recommend  Rhoades'  patent  attachments.  By 
the  use  of  change  gears  and  cams  a  wide  range  of  patterns 
may  be  produced  in  as  many  as  four  colors.  They  can  be 
applied  to  outstanding  twisters  of  our  make.  Our  special 
circular  in  colors  illustrates  many  of  the  designs  which 
may  be  easily  produced. 

On  wet  twisters  we  provide  brass  water  pans  containing 
glass  rods  under  which  the  yarn  is  drawn  in  the  process  of 
twisting.  These  glass  rods  are  raised  from  the  pan  and 
thrown  back  out  of  the  way  by  use  of  a  lever,  as  shown  in 
the  illustrations.  The  water  may  be  drawn  from  the  pans 
through  an  outlet  provided  for  that  purpose. 


282 


TWISTING. 


Water  Pan  with  Glass  Rods  Thrown  Back. 


TWISTING. 
We  offer  two  models  of  twister. 

G  MODEL 

with  spindles  driven  by  round  bands. 

H  MODEL 

with  spindles  driven  in  groups  of  four  each  by  fiat  tape 


G  Model  Twister  for  Heavy  Work. 


284 


TWISTING. 


Our  G  Model  Twister  is  the  standard  machine  which 
has  been  on  the  market  for  several  years.  The  illustration 
on  page  285  shows  a  machine  with  small  rings  and  that 
on  page  283  the  machine  for  heavy  work. 

This  model  has  8  inch  cylinders;  with  outrigger  bearing 
near  pulleys;  it  measures  38  inches  across  the  frame;  it  may 
be  adapted  for  either  wet  or  dry  twisting;  the  rolls  are 
either  single  line  top  and  bottom,  single  line  top  and  double 
line  bottom,  or  both  top  and  bottom  double;  we  use  the  well 
known  Rabbeth  type  of  spindle  illustrated  on  pages  275-6; 
knee  brakes  are  recommended  on  the  heavy  spindle  twisters, 
and  may  be  furnished  if  desired  on  the  lighter  spindle 
machines;  machines  are  usually  arranged  to  twist  from 
creels  but  may  be  built  to  twist  from  beams,  or  from 
vertical  spools,  if  preferred;  in  the  latter  case  Rhoades' 
patent  friction  arrangement  is  desirable  with  alternative 
glass  steps  for  tender  yarns;  flat  top  rings  of  2)A  inches 
diameter  or  less  are  usually  double  rings  in  cast  iron  holders; 
larger  than  23^  inch  flat  top  are  solid  single  rings;  for 
vertical  rings  2><  inches  diameter  or  less  the  narrow  vertical 
pattern  in  plate  holder  is  used;  larger  sizes  than  2>^  inches 
diameter  are  in  the  wide  vertical  pattern  without  holder; 
band  rings  are  also  preferred  in  some  cases  on  wet  twisting; 
see  ring  illustrations  on  pages  277-8;  the  usual  traverse  is  six 
inches,  but  may  be  longer  or  shorter  if  desired;  the  building 
motion  may  be  for  warp  wind,  two  headed  bobbins,  warp 
wind  single  head  bobbin,  filling  wind,  or  a  combination 
motion  that  will  build  either;  the  number  of  ply  may  be  as 
desired  from  two-ply  up;  the  Smith  stop  motion,  for  which  a 
small  additional  charge  is  made,  is  recommended  on  two-ply 
dry  twisting;  machines  are  equipped  with  wire-board  lifters. 

Machines  are  usually  geared  to  drive  both  sides  together, 
but  may  be  geared  independently  if  so  ordered;  the  twister 
may  have  Rhoades'  patent  measuring  device;  all  of  our 
twisters  may  be  equipped  for  making  a  wide  range  of 
novelty  yarns  in  as  high  as  four  colors;  an  additional  charge 
is  made  for  these  last  two  attachments;  a  special  yarn 
traverse  motion  may  also  be  furnished  to  traverse  the 
yarn  on  the  rolls. 

The  cuts  on  page  282  show  our  arrangement  of  water 
pan  for  wet  twisting  and  the  means  for  raising  the  rods 
from  the  water  pan. 


H  Model  Twister. 


286 


TWISTING, 


H  Model  Twister. 

Our  H  Model  Twister  was  designed  primarily  to 
meet  the  requirements  of  the  worsted  trade.  For  years 
worsted  twisters  had  been  equipped  with  spindles  driven  by 
flat  bands  or  tapes;  users  of  such  machines  claimed  that  they 
produced  yarns  of  more  uniform  twist;  that  the  tapes 
lasted  much  longer  than  round  bands  and  that  there  was  a 
saving  of  power  in  tape  driven  machines  as  compared  with 
the  band  drive. 

The  machines  previously  constructed  were  so  arranged 
in  conveying  the  power  from  cylinder  to  spindles  that  it  was 
necessary  to  have  the  machine  much  wider  than  with  a  band 
drive.  As  floor  space  is  expensive  we  determined  to  build  a 
twister  that  would  at  least  be  no  wider  than  our  standard 
machine.  Our  special  arrangement  includes  a  ten  inch 
cylinder  located  away  from  the  center  of  machine,  and 
connected  with  the  spindles  in  groups  of  four  spindles 
each.  A  patented  idler  pulley  in  self  oiling  floating 
bearings  is  mounted  between  cylinder  and  spindles  to  take 
up  the  slack  of  the  tape  and  with  an  adjustable  weight  to 
regulate  the  amount  of  tension. 

The  H  Model  twister  measures  the  same  in  width  and 
admits  of  the  same  options,  range  of  sizes,  etc.,  as  on  G 
Model  twister;  for  details  see  page  284. 


T  WIST  IN  G, 


287 


Draper 

105 
Twister 
Spindles 

WITH 

Whorls 

FOR 

Tape 
Drive. 


With  Patent 
Centrifugal 
Clutch. 


With  Solid 
Whorl. 


288 


TWISTING, 


TABLE  OF  TWIST  GEARS  FOR  DRAPER  COMPANY^S 
TWISTER. 


This  table  gives  the  number  of  teeth  required  in  cylinder  gears  with  a  given 
stud  gear  to  produce  a  theoretical  twist  ivith  8-inch  cylinder  and 
^s-inch  band.    N'o  allowance  is  made  for  contraction. 


Diameter  of 
whorl  .  .  . 

W2 

314 

1% 

IV4 

IVs 

1 

78 

Teeth  in  stud 
gear   .  .  . 

36 

32 

36 

38 

32 

28 

26 

Teeth  in  cyl- 

TWIST. 

inder  gear. 

18 

10.95 

13.61 

15.33 

19.80 

25.86 

32.85 

39.79 

19 

10.37 

12.90 

14.52 

18.77 

24.50 

31.12 

37.54 

30 

9.85 

12.25 

13.79 

17.82 

23.28 

29.56 

35.81 

21 

9.38 

11.67 

13.14 

16.97 

22.17 

28.15 

34.11 

22 

8.95 

11.14 

12.54 

16.20 

21.16 

26.87 

32.55 

23 

8.57 

10.65 

11.99 

15.50 

20.24 

25.70 

31.14 

24 

8.21 

10.21 

11.49 

14.85 

19.40 

24.63 

29.84 

25 

7.88 

9.80 

11.03 

14.25 

18.62 

23.65 

28.65 

26 

7.58 

9.42 

10.61 

13.70 

17.90 

22.74 

27.55 

27 

7.30 

9.07 

10.22 

13.19 

17.24 

21.90 

26.53 

28 

7.04 

8.75 

9.85 

12.71 

16.63 

21.12 

25.58 

29 

6.79 

8.45 

9.52 

12.29 

16.05 

20.39 

24.70 

30 

6.57 

8.17 

9.20 

11.88 

15.52 

19.70 

23.87 

31 

6.36 

7.90 

8.90 

11.50 

15.02 

19.06 

23.10 

32 

6.16 

7.66 

8.62 

11.14 

14.55 

18.47 

22.38 

33 

5.97 

7.42 

8.36 

10.80 

14.11 

17.91 

21.70 

34 

5.80 

7.21 

8.11 

10.48 

13.69 

17.38 

21.06 

35 

5.63 

7.00 

7.88 

10.18 

13.30 

16.89 

20.46 

36 

5.47 

6.81 

7.66 

9.90 

12.93 

16.42 

19.89 

37 

5.33 

6.62 

7.45 

9.63 

12.58 

15.98 

19.36 

38 

5.19 

6.45 

7.26 

9.38 

12.25 

15.56 

18.85 

39 

5.06 

6.28 

7.08 

9.14 

11.94 

15.16 

18.36 

40 

4.93 

6.13 

6.90 

8.91 

11.64 

14.78 

17.90 

41 

4.81 

5.98 

6.73 

8.69 

f  11.35 

14.42 

17.47 

42 

4.69 

5.83 

6.57 

8.48 

11.08 

14.07 

17.05 

43 

4.58 

5.70 

6.42 

8.29 

10.83 

13.75 

16.66 

44 

4.48 

5.57 

6.27 

8.10 

10.58 

13.44 

16.28 

45 

4.38 

5.44 

6.13 

7.94 

10.35 

13.14 

15.92 

46 

4.29 

5.33 

6.00 

7.75 

10.12 

12.86 

15.57 

47 

4.20 

5.21 

5.87 

7.58 

9.90 

12.58 

15.24 

48 

4.11 

r^.io 

5.75 

7.42 

9.70 

12.32 

14.92 

49 

4.02 

5.00 

5.63 

7.28 

9.50 

12.07 

14.62 

50 

3.94 

4.90 

5.52 

7.13 

9.31 

11.82 

14.32 

51 

3.87 

4.80 

5.41 

6.98 

9.13 

11.59 

14.04 

52 

3.79 

4.71 

5.31 

6.85 

8.95 

11.37 

13.77 

This  table  is  figured  for  G  model  Twister  with  1%  inch 
bottom  roll,  with  a  90  tooth  gear  on  the  front  roll  and  a  120 
tooth  jack  gear. 

The  ordinary  ranges  of  twist  required  are  given  in  the 
table.  If  any  twist  not  given  is  necessary  it  can  be  obtained 
within  a  small  fraction  of  a  turn  by  changing  both  stud  and 
cylinder  gears.  All  gears  are  interchangeable  and  have  same 
size  nut,  requiring  but  one  size  of  wrench  to  make  any  change. 


TWISTING. 


289 


TABLE  OF  TWIST  GEARS  FOR  DRAPER  COMPANY'S 
H  MODEL  TWISTER. 


T%is  table  gives  the  number  of  teeth  required  in  cylinder  gears  vnth  a  given 
stud  gear  to  produce  a  theoretical  twist  ivith  10-inch  cylinder  and  icith 
tape  1-11  inch  thick;  noalloioance  is  made  for  contraction. 


■       .  r 

JLlianieter  oi 

1% 

iVs 

1 

1  eecn  in  sluci 
gear    .  .  . 

36 

32 

36 

38 

32 

28 

26 

Teeth  in  cyl- 

TWIST. 

inder  gear 

18 

18.76 

17.16 

19.40 

25.20 

33.04 

42.08 

51.16 

19 

13.02 

16.24 

18.36 

23.88 

31.28 

39.84 

48.47 

20 

12.42 

15.44 

17^46 

22.68 

29.72 

37.87 

46.04 

21 

11.82 

14.70 

16.62 

21.60 

28.29 

36.06 

43.85 

22 

11.28 

14.04 

15  88 

20.64 

27.03 

34.41 

41.86 

23 

10.77 

13.41 

15.18 

19*.74 

25.83 

32.91 

40.04 

24 

10.32 

12.87 

14.55 

18.90 

24.78 

31.56 

38.37 

25 

9.94 

12.36 

13.96 

18.15 

23.79 

30.27 

36.84 

26 

9.53 

11.88 

13.44 

17.45 

22.85 

29.12 

35.42 

27 

9.19 

11.43 

12.92 

16.80 

22.00 

28.04 

34.11 

28 

8.85 

11.03 

12.48 

16.20 

21.23 

27.05 

32.89 

29 

8.55 

10.65 

12.03 

15.65 

20.50 

26.11 

31.75 

30 

8.28 

10.30- 

11.63 

15.13 

19.83 

25.23 

30.70 

31 

8.00 

9.98 

11.26 

14.64 

19.18 

24.20 

29.71 

32 

7.74 

9  64 

10.90 

14.18 

18  58 

23  66 

28  78 

33 

7.52 

9.36 

10.58 

13.76 

18.02 

22^94 

27.91 

34 

7.30 

9.08 

10.26 

13.34 

17.48 

22.26 

27.08 

35 

7.08 

8.82 

9.98 

12.96 

16.98 

21.64 

26.31 

36 

6.88 

8.58 

9.70 

12.60 

16.52 

21.04 

25.58 

37 

6.70 

8.34 

9.-^4 

12.26 

16.06 

20.46 

24.89 

38 

6.52 

8.12 

9.18 

11.94 

15.64 

19.92 

24.23 

39 

6.36 

7.92 

8.96 

11.64 

15.24 

19.41 

23.61 

40 

6.21 

7.72 

8.73 

11.34 

14.86 

18.94 

23.02 

41 

6.05 

7.53 

8.51 

11.07 

14.50 

18.47 

22.46 

42 

5.91 

7.35 

8.31 

10.80 

14.15 

18.03 

21.93 

43 

5.77 

7.18 

8.12 

10.55 

13.82 

17.61 

21.42 

44 

5.64 

7.02 

7.94 

10.32 

13.52 

17.21 

20.93 

45 

5.52 

6.87 

7.76 

10.09 

13.23 

16.82 

20.46 

46 

5.39 

6.71 

7.59 

9.87 

12.92 

16.46 

20.02 

47 

5.28 

6.57 

7.42 

9.66 

12.65 

16.11 

19.59 

48 

5.16 

6.44 

7.28 

9.46 

12.39 

15.78 

19.19 

49 

5.06 

6.30 

7.12 

9.26 

12.13 

15.45 

18.79 

50 

4.97 

6.18 

6.98 

9.08 

11.90 

15.13 

18.42 

51 

4.87 

6.05 

6.84 

8.89 

11.65 

14.85 

18.06 

52 

4.77 

5.94 

6.72 

8.73 

11.43 

14.56 

17.71 

The  above  table  is  for  H  model  twister  only  provided 
with  V/y,  inch  bottom  roll,  with  a  90  tooth  gear  on  the  front 
roll  and  a  120  tooth  jack  gear.  The  table  includes  the 
ordinary  ranges  of  twist.  If  any  twist  not  given  is 
necessary  it  can  be  obtained  within  a  small  fraction  of  a  turn 
by  changing  both  stud  and  cylinder  gears.  All  gears  are 
interchangeable  and  have  the  same  size  nut,  requiring  but 
one  size  of  wrench  to  make  any  change. 


290 


T  WISTING. 


TWIST  FORMULA 
For  Our  G  Model  Twister  of  Regular  Construction. 
See  Opposite  Page  for  Tables. 

Roll  Gear=90  Teeth.    Jack  Gear=120  Teeth. 
Diameter  of  Cylinder=8  inches. 

Diameter  of  Round  Band=3^  inch  or  .125.  (usual  size.) 
Bottom  Roll  Diam.=l><  inches.    Circum.=4.7124  inches. 

Formulae  for  Stud  Gear  Constants. 

T.  in  Roll  (Jear  X  T.  in  Jack  Gear  X  (dia.  of  Cyl.  +  dia.  of  Band)    g^^^j  q^^^, 
Circum.  of  Bottom  Roll  X  T.  in  Stud  Gear  ~  Constant 

Stud  Gear  Constant 

 =Twist  per  inch. 

(dia.  of  Whorl  +  \")  X  T.  in  Cyl.  Gear 

Stud  Gear  Constant 

 =T.  in  Cyl.  Gear. 

(dia.  of  Whorl  +  1^0  X  Twist  per  inch 

Examples,  based  on  Stud  Gear  of  30  teeth,  Cylinder 
Gear  of  32  teeth  and  IJ^''  diam.  Whorl  on  Twister: 

90  X  120  X  8  125 

 =620.703  Stud  Gear  Constant  as  per  table. 

4.7124  X  30 

620.703 


1.25  X  32 
620.703 


=15.52  Turns  Twist  per  inch. 
=32  Teeth  in  Cyl.  Gear. 


1.25  X  15.5 

Formulae  for  Whorl  Constants. 

T.  in  Roll  Gear  X  T.  in  Jack  Gear  X  (dia.  of  Cyl.  +  dia.  of  Band)  ^j^qj-j 

Circum.  of  Bottom  Roll  X  (dia.  of  Whorl  +  dia.  of  Band)  Constant 

Whorl  Constant 

 =Twist  per  inch. 

T.  in  Cyl.  Gear  X  T.  in  Stud  Gear 

Whorl  Constant 


— =T.  in  Cyl.  Gear. 
T.  in  Stud  Gear  X  Twist  per  inch 

Examples,  assuming  IJ^''  dia.  Whorl  on  Twister: 

90  X  120  X  8.125 

=14897  Whorl  Constant  as  per  table. 


4.7124  X  1.25 
14897 


32  X  30 
14897 


30  X  15.5 


=15.52  Turns  Twist  per  inch. 
52  Teeth  in  Cyl.  Gear. 


T  WI STING. 


291 


TABLE   OF  CONSTANTS  FOR  G  MODEL 

TWISTER  FOR  USE 

WITH    FORMULA  TO 

DETERMINE 

THEORETICAL 

TWIST    PER    INCH    OR    NUMBER  OF 

TEETH  IN 

CYLINDER  GEAR. 

Teeth 

! 

Teeth 

WHORL 

IN 

IN 

CONSTANTS. 

Stud 

Constants. 

Stud 

Constants. 

Gear. 

Gear. 

DiAM. 

OF 

Whorl 

18 

1034.504 

61 

305.264 

Whorl 

19 

980.057 

62 

300.340 

IN 

Constants. 

20 

931.054 

63 

295.573 

Inches 

21 

886.718  I 

64 

290.954 

22 

846.413 

65 

286.478 

23 

809.612 

66 

282.138 

% 

18621 

24 

775.879 

67 

277.927 

1 

16550 

25 

744.843 

68 

273.840 

w% 

14897 

26 

716.196 

69 

269.871 

1^ 

13542 

27 

689.670  ' 

70 

266.016 

1% 

12414 

28 

665.039 

71 

262.269 

11459 

29 

642.106 

72 

258.626 

10641 

30 

620.703  1 

73 

255.083 

9931 

31 

600.680 

74 

251.636 

2 

8763 

32 

581.911 

75 

248.281 

2M 

7840 

33 

564.275 

76 

245.014 

7094 

34 

547.679  ! 

77 

241.832 

2% 

6477 

35 

532.031 

78 

238.732 

3 

5959 

36 

517.252 

79 

235.710 

37 

503.273 

80 

232.764 

- 

38 

490.028 

81 

229.890 

39 

477.464 

82 

227.086 

40 

465.527 

83 

224.350 

41 

454.173 

84 

221.680 

42 

443.359 

85 

219.072 

43 

433.048 

86 

216.524 

44 

423.206 

87 

214.035 

45 

413.802 

88 

211.603 

46 

404.806 

89 

209.226 

47 

396.193 

90 

206.901 

48 

387.939 

91 

204.627 

49 

QSrt  099 
ooU.  yjLiCt 

Q9 

50 

372.422 

93 

200.227 

51 

365.119 

94 

198.097 

oz 

358.098 

95 

196.011 

53 

351.341 

96 

193.970 

54 

344.835 

97 

191.970 

55 

338.565 

98 

190.011 

56 

332.519 

99 

188.092 

57 

326.686 

100 

186.211 

58 

321.053 

59 

315.612 

60 

310.351 

TWISTING, 


TWIST  FORMULAE 

For  Our  H  Model  Twister  of  Regular  Construction. 
See  Opposite  Page  for  Tables. 

Roll  Gear=90  Teeth.    Jack  Gear=120  Teeth. 
Diameter  of  Cylinder=10  inches. 

Thickness  of  Flat  Tape=Vii  inch  or  .09091.  (usual  thickness.) 
Bottom  Roll  Diam.=l>^  inches.  Circum.=4.7124. 

Formula  for  Stud  Gear  Constants. 

T.  in  Roll  Gear  X  T  in  Jack  Gear  X  (dia.  of  Cyl.  +  th'k.  of  Tape)  g^^^  q^^^ 

Circum.  of  Bottom  Roll  X  T.  in  Stud  Gear  Constant 
Stud  Gear  Constant 

-=T\vist  per  inch. 


(dia.  of  Whorl  +  1-11^0  X  T.  in  Cyl.  Gear 
Stud  Gear  Constant 


 =T.  in  Cyl.  Gear. 

(dia.  of  Whorl  +  1-11^0   X  Twist  per  inch 

Examples,  based  on  Stud  Gear  of  30  teeth,  Cylinder 
Gear  of  32  teeth  and  13/8 diam.  Whorl  on  Twister: 

90  X  120  X  10.09091 

-=770.887  Stud  Gear  Constant  as  per  table. 


4.7124  X  30 
770.887 


1.21591  X  32 
770.887 


n9.81  Turns  Twist  per  inch. 
=32  Teeth  in  Cyl.  Gear. 


1.21591  X  19.81 

Formula  for  Whorl  Constants. 

T.  in  Roll  Gear  X  T.  in  Jack  Gear  X  (dia.  of  Cyl.  +  th'k.  of  Tape)_^j^^j.j 
Circum.  of  Bottom  Roll  X  (dia.  of  Whorl  +  th'k.  of  Tape)  Constant 
Whorl  Constant 

=Twist  per  inch. 


T.  in  Cyl.  Gear  X  T.  in  Stud  Gear 
Whorl  Constant 


— =T.  in  Cyl.  Gear. 
T.  in  Stud  Gear  X  Twist  per  inch 

Examples,  assuming  13^"  dia.  Whorl  on  Twister: 

90  X  120  X  10.09091 


4.7124  X  1.21591 


^=19020  Whorl  Constant  as  per  table. 


19020 

 =19.81  Turns  Twist  per  inch. 

32  X  30 

19020 

 =32  Teeth  in  Cyl.  Gear. 

30  X  19.81 

TWISTING, 


•293 


TABLE 

OF  CONSTANTS  FOR  H  MODEL 

TWISTER  FOR  USE 

WITH   FORMULA  TO 

DETERMINE 

THEORETICAL 

TWIST   PER   INCH.  OR   NUMBER  OF 

TEETH  IN   CYLINDER  GEAR. 

Teeth 

1 

Teeth 

WHORL 

Stud  Gear  j 

Stud  Gear 

IN 

CONSTANTS. 

Stud 

i 

Constants,  i 

Stud 

Constants. 

Gear. 

 ' 

Gear. 



DiAM. 

Whorl 



OF 

18 

1  9Q/1  SI  1 

Ol 

070  -[OA 

19 

1 91 7  1  on 

ft9 

Q7^  OOQ 
0  i  0.  uuy 

IN 

Constants. 

20 

iiOO. ooU  ! 

Do 

0A7  08Q 
OD 1 .  uoy 

Inches 

21 

D4 

001. 000 

 _  

22 

oo 

qcc  700 
000.  <yo 



23 

DO 

QCO  40^ 

7/ 
'as 

Zoy4o 

24 

i^Do.DUo 

0  1 

Q4C  170 

04:0.  X  <  0 

i 

Ziiyy 

25 

Do 

QzlO  0Q7 

o4u.  uy  1 

1 1  / 

1>8 

1  QA9A 

lyUZU 

26 

QQQ    AQA  \ 
00^7.404  I 

AQ 

oy 

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oi 

98R  Pil  q 

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89 
oz 

989  oqi 

ZoZ.  Uoi 

40 

Oio. 100 

8Q 
oo 

978  PSK'^ 
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41 

0D4.  UOo 

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^ 10. oiD 

4z 

CCA  aoo 
OOU. DOo 

8f; 

oO 

979  077 
Z  4  Z.  U  (  < 

r^Q7  S9Q 
OOI.O^O 

8A 
oO 

9A8  Q14 
ZDo. yi4 

A  A 

44 

OZO.  DU4 

87 
o  ( 

9A?^  89q 
ZOO. oZo 

45 

CI  Q  CkOA 
Oio.  yzi4 

88 
oo 

9fi9  809 
ZOZ. oUZ 

A  C 

4b 

=;n9  7r;9 

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8Q 

oy 

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4yz.uoo 

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yu 

QA9 

ZOO. yoz 

A  O 

48 

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91 

254. 138 

A(\ 

49 

471.971 

92 

251.376 

50 

462.532 

93 

248.673 

51 

453.462 

94 

246.027 

52 

444.742 

95 

243.437 

53 

436.351 

96 

240.902 

54 

428.270 

97 

238.418 

55 

420.483 

98 

235.985 

56 

412.975 

99 

233.602 

57 

405.729 

100 

231.266 

58 

398.734 

59 

391.976 

60 

385.443 

1 
1 

294 


TWISTING. 


Production  of  Twisters. 

In  preparing  tables  of  production  we  have  assumed  the 
number  of  yarn  after  twisting  to  be  one-half  for  2-ply, 
one-fourth  for  4-ply,  etc.,  of  the  number  before  twisting; 
the  twist  is  indicated  by  the  number  at  the  head  of  table  by 
which  the  square  root  of  the  twisted  yarn  is  multiplied.  (See 
twist  tables  pages  125-129.)  The  figures  given  cover  the 
usual  sizes  of  ring  and  numbers  of  yarn.  What  we  consider 
a  fair  allowance  for  loss  from  the  theoretical  production  has 
been  made. 

In  accordance  with  modern  practice  we  have  assumed 
the  following  conditions : 
Traverse:— 6  inches. 

Bobbin  head  diameter: — Top  \i  inch  less  than  ring 
diameter  for  rings  larger  than  2)^  inches,  and  inch  less 
than  ring  diameter  for  rings  V/i  and  less.  Bottom  head  34 
inch  less  than  diameter  of  ring  in  all  cases. 

Gauge  of  frame  : — 1  inch  more  than  diameter  of  ring. 

Roll  speed  is  figured  in  proportion  to  the  spindle  speed 
and  twist,  on  the  basis  that  contraction  in  length  due  to  twist 
is  offset  by  the  additional  turns  of  the  spindle  that  are 
necessary  to  wind  the  yarn  on  the  bobbin. 

Example:  To  find  the  roll  speed,  divide  the  spindle 
speed  by  the  circumference  of  the  bottom  roll  and  then 
divide  the  result  by  the  twist  per  inch. 

As  bottom  roll  is  13^  inches  in  diameter  the 
circumf  erence=3. 1416  X 1. 5=4. 7124. 

Spindle  speed  for  No.  6  yarn  is  4500-^4.7124=954.92. 

If  twist  with  multiplier  4  is  used  consult  the  twist  table 
which  gives  6.93  for  the  square  root  of  6  multiplied  by  4. 

954.92-^6.93=137.8  number  of  revolutions.  The  tables 
give  138  as  the  nearest  equivalent. 

Production  is  figured  directly  from  the  delivery  of  the 
front  roll. 

Taking  the  example  of  No,  6  yarn  above,  multiply  the 
circumference — 4.7124  inches  by  138  the  turns  per  minute 
=650.3112  inches  of  delivery  per  minute.  650.3112X600= 
390186.72  inches  of  delivery  per  day.  As  there  are  30,240 
inches  in  a  hank,  390186.72-^-30,240=12.9  hanks  per  day -4-3 
(the  number  of  6  two-ply)  =4. 3  pounds  per  day,  the 
theoretical  production  of  continuous  running. 


) 


TWISTING.  295 


Per  Cent,  of  Allowance  for  Stops  in  Twisting. 


Number 
of  Yarn. 

2  Ply. 

3  Ply. 

4  Ply. 

6  Ply. 

6 

14 

15 

17 

20 

7 

14 

15 

16 

18 

8 

13 

14 

15 

17 

9 

13 

14 

15 

16 

10 

12 

13 

14 

15 

12 

12 

13 

14 

15 

14 

11 

12 

13 

14 

16 

11 

12 

13 

14 

18 

10 

11 

12 

13 

20 

10 

11 

12 

13 

22 

9 

10 

11 

12 

24 

9 

10 

11 

12 

26 

9 

9 

10 

11 

28 

8 

9 

10 

11 

30 

8 

9 

9 

10 

32 

8 

8 

9 

10 

34 

7 

8 

9 

9 

36 

7 

8 

8 

9 

38 

7 

7 

8 

9 

40 

6 

7 

8 

8 

42 

o 

7 

7 

8 

44 

6 

6 

7 

8 

46 

5 

6 

7 

7 

48 

5 

6 

6 

7 

50 

5 

5 

6 

7 

60 

5 

5 

6 

6 

70 

4 

5 

5 

6 

80 

4 

5 

5 

6 

In  order  to  make  a  proper  allowance  for  loss  of  time  due 
to  doffing,  etc.,  it  is  necessary  to  find  out  what  results  are 
actually  obtained  and  work  out  a  systematic  table.  The 
above  basis  has  been  assumed  for  our  own  figures.  The 
percentage  varies  with  the  ply  and  number  of  yarn,  but  not 
with  the  twist. 

Taking  the  same  problem  as  before,  with  the  theoretical 
product  of  4.3  pounds,  the  table  would  recommend  a 
percentage  reduction  of  14  per  cent.  4. 3 X.  14=. 602 

4. 3—.  602=3. 69— Answer 

Same  as  given  in  the  Production  tables. 


296 


T  W I  STING, 


Table  Showing  Number  of  Pounds  of  Twisted  Yarn 
Produced  in  10  Hours— 2  Ply. 
Front  Roll  \y<i  In.  in  Diameter  in  all  Cases. 


Multiplier  6.  1 

Pounds 

per 
Spindle. 

tr^iCOCCt^--1^C0C/DXOO000i'-frH00OG0CD'fC0'-HCiC5O'^<NO 
'^CiC^^:)l-HOGCO»0O»0'^C0?0C0C<^(7^C<^ClC^'r^(7^^rH^-H^HrHrH^ 

Rev.  per 
Minute 
of  Roll. 

(NiooorH<:DOO(ric:)'<-tH»— QOO'-Hcoi-H(xcoiO'+cii— locoxt^-^ 

1 

L-^!  '+-t^CO^tOlC^-H(^^O^HOiCqOCql^-^rH-r^^,— iOI>-lOCO«N<?lt^lO<?l 

3  CicoC5cC'T'rlOGOl:^cDlc»C'^^cocooocococl(r^clClcqr^^^^I— 1 

C  ^'S^l  c4  c4  rH        r-.  r-t 

1  Multip 

t>  _w  —  j 

~ H 5  '  0(^^»cOiOrHlCo:>liO(^^<XlCoooo^tccor-lOooco^<^^^-^ocoQOt^co 

c  1 

Multiplier  4. 

Pounds 

per 
Spindle. 

C0C0'r^Ol>.i0(?lOC»t^t^O»0OTt^^C0^C0C0C0C0C0C^Cl(?Qi--<rH 
CO(M<MC^r-HT-lT-(T-l 

Rev.  per 
Minute 
of  Roll. 

ocl>•Oi(^^^^ocoo5foo5co<^lGO»oc^OicDt^»ccorHCi^>.lOOi(?qr--ll>. 

CO<?li-HrHOi-H005C5GOC5C5COOOCCt^l:^QOGOOOQOI>-t^l:^t^t^t^CD 

Multiplier  3.  1] 

Pounds 

per 
Spindle. 

C10C10COOl>.«-^t^OCi^t>.0:>!T^i>.(?10C^C5iO<^10b^GCO't'0 

oc5Cl^>•o^rHcz;^or^ocioo^*cDCDlOlC»ao^Ttlrt^'^cococ^c^(^^ 

'>:fCOCO'?^(M'5^i— li— <rH 

u      __.  I 

^i-'^OOOiyiCOrHCqiOGOQOC^OOCOOOCOOTiHrHcXCD-^^t— ICOt^lCCi 
.  0Ct^4C»O'*iO^C0C^rHCq(MrHi— lOOOrHi— IrHOOOOOCiCiOO 

Weioht  of 
Yarn  in 

Pounds  on 
Bobbin. 

.42 
.331 
.247 

.180 

.117 

Dia. 
of 
Bobbin 
Barrel. 

r-l                        rH  i-H 

1  CO                      (N                      (N                                <M  r-H 

Rev.  of 
Spindle 

per 
Minute. 

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo 
■  oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo 
»r5icic»c»ocococococooooooooooooooo>o>coo 

No.  of 
Yarn 
to  be 
Twisted. 

COt^OOOO'M^OOOO'M'^CCCOO'T<l-fOGOO<M^':DGOOOOO 
^^^rHi—  C<l(r^C<IC^(?qCOCOCOCOCO^^^^^lOCDI>.GO 

1 

TWISTING, 


297 


Table  Showing  Number  of  Pounds  of  Twisted  Yarn 
Produced  in  10  Hours— 3  Ply. 
Front  Roll  Ij^  In.  in  Diameter  in  all  Cases. 


i       Multiplier  6.  1 

Pounds 

per 
Spindle. 

Oioo^-i'^o^cor-lOOl:^c»Oicocooo<^^rt^^H^>.ocoo^cl'^^^^oo 

COc4G^<NrHrHrHrH 

Rev.  per 
i  Minute 
of  Roll. 

(XCOOCDrHO'!tC5lOClC5CO'-t^C<lCil>.OrHOG0  1>-CDCO'rir-HlO<^lO 

Multiplier  5.  1 

Pounds 

per 
Spindle. 

Or-l:D1-HO»0^>.OOGO^-HO--H»0^-O^OrH(XlC5^C10'^H,-^Ci05t>.^ 

Rev.  per 
Minute 
of  Roll. 

T-HCOOOCOCOOiCV5GO^COOCDTtlT-^C5l>-'^C^OCCt^COTtiCOCOrHCD 
rH  T-H 

1       Multiplier  4. 

Pounds 

per 
Spindle. 

Rev.  per 
Minute 
of  Roll. 

COC^C^i—iO-Hi-HOCiCSOOOCSGOCOGOCSOOGOGOOOCiCiCiOOOOGO 
rHi-Hr-HrHr— IrHrHrH  r-li— ( 

Multiplier  3.  | 

Pounds 

per 
Spindle. 

Rev.  per 
Minute 
of  Roll,  j 

»O<r^i-HrH-tlO00(XJO^CiC0G0C0Cii0ClC0Ot--^i-Ht:^rt^(TqrHt^O 

Weijj:ht  of  1 
Yarn  in 

Pounds  on 
Bobbin. 

.645 
.420 
.331 

.247 

.180 
.117 

Dia. 
of 
Bobbin 
Barrel. 

T-K  rH 

Dia.  of 
Ring 
in 
Inches. 

CO                     CO                                                       (?q                     (M  rH 

Rev.  of 
Spindle 

per 
Minute. 

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo 
oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo 

l:^r--t^l--l^»0i0iO»0»CC0C0C0C0C0C0C0OOOOOOOOOOO 
COCOCO?OCO-^'«*'^rt<-^JiO»OOU5lOOlO<;DCOCOCOCOI^-t^t^l>.QC 

No.  of 
Yarn 
to  be 
Twisted. 

C0t--Q00:>O<t<lTt<<:D00OCl'?^C000OG<l'rtHC0a0OC=l^CD00OOOO 
rHt-^rH^Hr--l(^^C^(^^C<^(?^C0C000COC0'^'^^r^<Tt<^O<X>l>.Q0 

298 


TWISTING. 


Table  Showing  Number  of  Pounds  of  Twisted  Yarn 
Produced  in  10  Hours— 4  Ply. 
Front  Roll  V/^  In.  in  Diameter  in  all  Cases. 


T3  X 
3  *^  C 


5  CX.g^   TjHCO<N(?q(yi(?irHrHrH  'rH 


lO-*COCC<MG9rHrHrHrHrHi-H 


ti 


|4 2l35Sls2§322S§^^^^^^^^^"^^^" 


T— IrHrHr— IrHi— irH  r- 1  rHrHi— Ir-i 


*S,   05l^^kCO'<!tlr^^?0<?^C^^H(^^rHT-H^-lrHT--I^HrH^H^H  rHt-Hr- 1 


i-ipHrHrHr-ii-HrHrHrHrHi-Hi-Hr-^rHrHrHrHrHrHi-HrHr-HrHrHrHr— ifHi— I 


III 


i       S       S  i 


7A 


TWISTING, 


299 


Table  Showing  Number  of  Pounds  of  Twisted  Yarn 
Produced  in  10  Hours— 6  Ply. 
Front  Roll  1^  In.  in  Diameter  in  all  Cases. 


Her  6.  | 

Pounds 
Spindle. 

€D(^^05t^OQOQOt^»0(^^oo'<*^HCDOiOcc(^^^>•occ<3I»^^-<^loo<^^oc<^ 

1  Multip 

Rev.  per 
Minute 
of  Roll. 

licr  5. 

Pounds 

per 
Spindle. 

CO            CO  CO 

1  Multip 

Rev.  per 
Minute 
of  Roll. 

CDQO<?li>.G<10COQOTj^OGSa5CDCOOaOCOGO<:0'^(?^OrHOOOrHrH^ 
OC5C5GOOCOS(X)t>.t-^t>«QOt>-t>.|>.|>.COCDt>.r>.|>.t>.|>-QOOOl>.l>-QOI>» 

lier  4. 

Pounds 

per 
Spindle. 

IOCCrHrH0CC:iG<lC0O<?lClCqC0C0G0-*iO0iG0G0r-H00JO05(?qG0CD(ri 
OirHt^l>.Oi'^CD050rHCOOaOCD'^CO(>ICOC^lrHr-lOrHOOt>.l>-<:D 

1  Multip 

Rev.  per 
Minute 
of  Roll. 

C0C0OCiC0C0lCQ0'^^^^C0Q0»0^HQ0l000Q0»C)^HO00C<^OQ005rH^0 
CO(Mr-iOOrHOCiC5GOOC5C50:iQOGOCOOi050ia5COOOOiQ0005 
r-lrHr— Ir- Ii—It— Ir-i  i— 1  i— IrH  rH 

Her  3. 

Pounds 

per 
Spindle. 

'^^OOOCDOOCO-:t^CCQOO(y?CDt^05lO'^rH00505Tt<U5<:D40Gqr*< 
rH  rH 

1  Multip 

Rev.  per 
Minute 
of  Roll. 

l>.'<tCC»Ot^OC:iO?OCDlr^rHCDrHt:^-rt<OOt:^^rHCOCDC0005»OCD 
l>.CDOTtlCOOCOCCC^rHCOCOC^<^^fHr-^rHCOC^C^ClrHJOOOCOrHCO<^^ 

Weight  of 
Yarn  in 

Pounds  on 
Bobbin. 

1.160 
.855 
.645 

.420 

.331 
.180 

Dia. 
of 
Bobbin 
Barrel. 

:^           :^  ^ 

y-^                                                       rH  rH 

Dia.  of 
Ring 
in 
Inches. 

\^                                                    \N  \« 

^               CO                      CO               Si  iM 

Rev.  of 
Spindle 

per 
Minute. 

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo 
oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo 

(?q(M(M<M(?qCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCOCO^^^-^^SSSSoCD 

No.  of 
Yarn 
to  be 
Twisted. 

rH  T-H  I— 1  1—1  T-t  f?^  (71  Cq            00  CO  CO  CO  00 ^  M<  ^  ^  O  CD  t>.  00 

300 


TWISTING. 


.2 

.s  .s  s- 

-  «  c 


i  .s  % 


«  -  d 


i 


a 

a  a 


REELING, 


301 


Our  Standard  Reel. 


We  took  up  the  manufacture  of  reels  years  ago  as  they 
naturally  belonged  in  the  group  of  machines  comprising 
warpers,  spoolers  and  twisters.  Reels  have  been  sold  at 
such  low  prices  that  we  have  confined  our  efforts  to  making 
a  superior  machine  without  any  attempt  to  compete  with  the 
low  prices  offered  on  an  inferior  article. 

In  construction,  our  machine  is  heavy  and  designed  to  be 
operated  without  excessive  vibration.  The  shaft  in  the 
swift  is  of  wood  which  is  the  best  material  for  the  purpose; 
truss  rods  give  the  swift  added  stiffness;  the  bearing  on  the 
driven  end  is  hung  in  a  ball  and  socket  joint  so  that  it  cannot 
be  strained  in  lifting  the  swift  for  removal  of  the  yarn;  the 
bearing  on  the  opposite  end  is  so  protected  as  to  prevent 
oiling  the  skeins  while  being  removed;  the  releasing  arms 
have  metal  bearings  fitted  in  metal  boxes. 

Our  traverse  motion  is  geared  and  positive  and  may  be 
arranged  either  for  winding  plain  skeins  or  for  the 
so-called  Grant  cross-wind. 


302 


REELING, 


The  bobbin  box  has  a  waste  box  at  each  end. 

We  build  the  reels  with  dead  spindles  for  cops  or  for 
bobbins  with  filling  wind;  with  live  spindles  for  warp 
wind  bobbins;  or  for  twister  bobbins;  each  spindle  is 
removable  independent  of  the  others. 

We  furnish  a  clock  with  gong  to  strike  at  each  840 
yards;  or  at  such  other  specified  length  as  may  be  desired. 

We  also  furnish  a  change  gear  clock  with  stop  motion 
similar  to  that  used  on  our  ball  warpers  where  it  is 
important  to  measure  a  variety  of  lengths  of  skein;  an 
additional  charge  is  made  for  this  clock. 

We  furnish  swifts  either  54,  60  or  72  inch.  We  do  not 
make  adjustable  swifts,  having  found  them  unsatisfactory. 

The  gauge  of  our  reels  may  be  from  2  inch  to  5  inch  as 
desired. 


REEL  PRODUCTION. 

Our  reel  production  table  is  based  upon  the  theoretical 
product  if  in  continuous  operation.  As  reels  are  stopped  a 
very  large  percentage  of  the  possible  running  time  a 
deduction  must  be  made  to  cover  what  is  found  to  be  the 
average  loss  from  stoppage  in  each  mill. 

The  table  represents  in  pounds  per  spindle  of  single 
yarn,  ten  hours  continuous  product  in  the  various  numbers 
specified.  The  table  starts  with  number  10  as  the  coarsest. 
For  numbers  1  to  9  inclusive,  take  the  products  for  10  to  90 
and  multiply  by  10. 

Example:  The  product  of  a  reel  with  54  inch  swift  at 
120  revolutions  per  minute  on  number  5  yarn  would  be  the 
product  of  number  50  yarn  (2.57  pounds)  multiplied  by  10= 
25.7  pounds. 


REELING. 


303 


Reel    Production   Tables— Theoretical  Continuous 
Result  in  Pounds  per  Spindle 
PER  Day  of  Ten  Hours. 


1 

72  Inch  Reel. 

i 

i 

g 

1 

1 

8 

16.07 
14.60 
13.39 
12.36 
11.47 
10.71 
10.04 
9.45 
8.93 
8.46 
8.04 
7.65 
730 
6.99 
6.70 
0.43 
6.18 
5.95 
5.74 
5.54 
5.35 
4.01 
3.21 
2.68 
2.29 
2.01 
1.78 
1.60 

54  Inch  Reel. 

\\ 

i  " 

13.92 
12.65 
11.60 
10.70 
9.94 
9.28 
8.70 
8.19 
7.74 
7.33 
6.96 
6.63 
6.33 
6.05 
5.30 
5.57 
5.36 
5.16 
4.97 
4.80 
4.64 
3.48 
2.78 
2.32 
1.99 
1.74 
1.55 
1.39 

'  § 

No. 
Yarn. 

304 


REELING. 


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r-i  05 
rH 

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»!0  O  UO  O  KO  o  >c  o  o 
cqcoco^Tt^iJOiocDco 


WE  A  VING. 


305 


THE  NORTHROP  LOOM. 


The  Northrop  loom,  invented  and  developed  by  us,  has 
been  for  a  number  of  years  our  main  product.  Its  inception, 
rapid  development  and  manifest  advantages  are  matters  of 
common  knowledge  to  the  textile  trade.  In  cotton  we  are 
prepared  to  furnish  our  automatic  loom  for  everything  woven 
with  one  shuttle  except  the  heavier  grades  of  duck,  and  in 
worsted  and  woolen  we  cover  a  large  field  of  one  shuttle 
weaves.  Within  its  range  the  Northrop  loom  has  reached  the 
position  of  determining  weaving  costs.  This  cost  averages 
one-half  the  cost  on  common  looms.  The  controlling  interests 
of  a  mill  using  common  looms  where  the  goods  are  in 
direct  competition  with  Northrop  Loom  woven  goods  have 
to  face  the  fact  that  they  are  asking  their  manufacturing 
department  to  carry  the  burden  of  a  weaving  cost  double 
that  of  better  equipped  competitors;  and  weaving  is  by  far 
the  most  expensive  labor  item  in  a  cotton  mill.  Our 
contribution  to  the  art  of  weaving — The  Northrop  Loom- 
has  cut  in  half  the  cost  of  weaving. 

Within  the  last  few  years  a  large  number  of  important 
patented  devices  have  been  added  to  the  loom  which  have 
materially  enhanced  its  value.  We  are  constantly  adding  to 
our  knowledge  by  experiments  which  result  in  patented 
devices,  a  number  of  which  have  passed  the  practical  test  of 
mill  conditions  and  have  been  adopted  for  our  commercial 
product.  The  aggregate  of  these  patents  is  large  in  number 
and  added  refinements  keep  us  seventeen  years  ahead  of  the 
open  art.  A  comparison  of  the  loom  we  put  out  today  with 
that  of  seventeen  years  ago  furnishes  evidence  that  during 
this  period  we  have  been  active. 

There  has  been  an  increase  in  the  effectiveness  of  our 
loom  by  such  improvements  as  cut  gears,  grinding  the  take-up 
roll  and  the  use  of  lock  washers.  We  now  cut  by  machinery 
the  gears  on  our  looms.  It  adds  to  the  cost  and  also  adds  to 
the  value  of  the  loom  in  smooth  running  and  especially  in  the 
evenness  of  the  take-up  motion.  This  gives  a  better  product 
as  the  cloth  comes  true  to  count  in  picks  per  inch.  Grinding 
the  take-up  roll  to  a  certain  size  is  another  contribution  to 
better  cloth.  All  of  our  loom-frames  and  girts  are  milled, 
the  girts  being  milled  to  exact  length  so  that  the  looms  are 


306 


IVEA  VING. 


uniform  and  the  frames  set  up  in  correct  alignment.  Lock 
washers  are  another  important  improvement,  in  that  the 
various  parts  of  the  loom,  subject  as  it  is  to  constant  vibration 
caused  by  the  beat-up  of  the  lay  and  the  picking  of  the 
shuttle,  are  securely  locked  in  place. 

Our  three  great  additions  to  the  art  of  weaving  in  the 
Northrop  Loom  are  the  changing  of  filling  by  changing  the 
bobbin  in  the  running  shuttle  to  take  care  of  the  problem  of 
replenishing  the  filling;  the  first  practical  and  successful  warp 
stop-motion  to  stop  the  loom  upon  the  failure  of  a  warp 
thread,  and  the  filling  feeler.  The  filling  feeler  is  a  natural 
result  of  perfecting  the  first  two  elements  where  the  quality 
of  goods  permits  no  partial  or  double  picks.  It  changes  the 
filling  in  the  running  shuttle  before  the  supply  is  completely 
exhausted,  thus  making  perfect  cloth. 


Number  3  Battery. 


Taking  up  the  first  of  our  great  improvements,  the 
changing  of  the  bobbin,  the  cut  represents  our  standard  No.  3 
battery  a  number  of  features  of  which  we  control  by  patents. 
This  is  the  same  type  25-bobbin  battery  we  have  been  using, 
having  found  it  thoroughly  satisfactory. 


WE  A  VING, 


307 


Number  3  Battery  Feeding  Mechanism. 


The  feeding  mechanism  of  our  No.  3  battery  shown  is 
representative  of  the  larger  part  of  our  battery  feeds;  the 
transferrer,  transferrer-fork,  top  holder,  and  bobbin  support 
are  all  of  the  usual  type. 


308 


WE  A  VING. 


Number  14  Battery  for  Worsteds. 


Our  No.  14  battery  for  worsteds  is  designed  to  give  a  short 
filling  end  and  is  used  on  looms  where  the  value  of  the  filling 
is  very  high  per  pound. 

The  second  great  advance  in  the  art  of  weaving  we  made 
on  warp  stop-motions;  a  motion  on  a  loom  which  we  were  the 
first  to  reduce  to  practical  conditions  and  introduce  to  the 
trade.  We  have  a  line  of  motions  for  the  various  conditions 
met  in  weaving.  Highness  of  sley,  breaking  strength  of 
w^arp  and  the  capacity  to  stand  relatively  harsh  usage  by  the 
harness  motion  all  have  to  be  considered.  A  certain  number 
of  ends  per  inch  of  60s  and  of  8s  present  different  warp  stop 
problems,  just  as  60s  and  8s  are  different  yarns  in  the  harness 
motion. 


WE  A  VING. 


309 


Number  2  Single-Thread  Warp  Stop-Motion. 


Our  No.  2  single  thread  warp  stop-motion  is  used  on  low  or 
medium  sley  and  has  the  advantage  of  being  a  motion  where 
it  is  easy  to  find  the  broken  end.  The  No.  8  is  like  the  No.  2 
except  it  has  three  banks  of  drop  wires  to  handle  a  slightly 
higher  sley.  We  also  make  four-bank  stop-motions  of  this 
type. 


IVEA  V/JVG. 


Number  7  Single-Thread  Warp-Stop. 


The  cut  shows  our  No.  7  single  thread  warp  stop-motion. 
This  stop-motion  has  the  advantage  of  reducing  chafing  of 
the  warp  threads  because  its  short  drop  wires  are  hung  on 
the  under  shed  of  the  leased  warp.  The  drop  wires  are 
short  enough  to  prevent  their  coming  in  contact  with  any  of 
the  threads  in  the  upper  lease,  and  consequently  while  an  end 
has  to  pass  through  its  own  drop  wire  in  one  bank  it  does  not 
have  to  come  in  contact  with  any  drop  wire  in  the  other 
bank.  Thus  the  chafing  coming  from  passing  through 
another  bank  of  drop  wires  is  entirely  avoided  and  at  the 
same  time  the  number  of  ends  per  inch  while  each  end  is 
passing  through  its  drop  wire  is  cut  in  two.  This  results  in  a 
material  reduction  of  warp  breakage. 


WE  A  VING. 


311 


Twine  Harness  1898  Warp  Stop-Motion. 


Certain  weaves  are  so  organized  that  more  than  one  end 
can  be  drawn  in  one  drop  wire.  This  is  shown  in  our 
single-bank  '98  twine  harness  stop-motion.  Where  this 
occurs  the  mill  gets  the  advantage  of  less  drop  wires  to  buy 
and  handle.  The  mill  has,  however,  to  keep  the  looms  on 
cloth  so  organized  as  to  use  this  type  of  motion. 


312 


WE  A  VING. 


Double  Steel  Harness. 
2  Shades. 

In  some  cases  where  the  strength  of  warp  and  the  ease  of 
weave  warrants,  we  use  our  double  steel  harness  stop-motion. 
Its  advantages  are  the  combining  of  harness  and  stop-motion, 
giving  but  one  drawing  in  for  a  broken  end,  and  one  set  of 
parts  to  handle  for  redrawing  a  new  warp.  We  also  build 
this  motion  to  take  as  high  as  five  harnesses. 

The  third  great  field  developed  by  us  arose  from  the  fact 
that  we  had  successfully  solved  the  problem  of  making 
practical  a  filling  changer  and  a  warp  stop-motion.  On  some 
qualities  of  goods  mis-picks  are  a  blemish  so  that  we  have  to 
avoid  them  and  this  resulted  in  our  perfecting  a  filling  feeler 


313 


WE  A  VING, 


which  calls  for  a  change  of  filling  while  there  is  a  perfect 
pick  in  the  cloth  and  before  complete  exhaustion  of  filling  in 
the  running  shuttle. 


Number  8  Feeler. 

From  time  to  time  we  have  introduced  to  the  trade  a 
number  of  types  of  feelers  and  after  years  of  experience 
have  reached  a  point  where  the  greater  part  of  our  customers 
use  our  No.  8  finished  feeler  which  measures  between  the 
disappearing  yarn  mass  on  the  bobbin  and  the  outside  wall  of 
the  shuttle. 


Shuttle  for  the  Straw  System. 


314 


WE  A  VING. 


We  have  recently  introduced  to 
the  trade  the  Straw  feeler  system 
which  operates  through  the  agency 
of  a  slotted  bobbin.  The  feeler 
finger  enters  the  shuttle  and  is 
driven  back  by  coming  in  contact  with 
filling.  When  the  predetermined 
period  of  exhaustion  is  reached  the 
feeler  finger  enters  a  slot  in  the 
bobbin  uncovered  by  filling  winding 
off  during  the  weaving  operation, 
remains  quiescent  and  causes  a 
change  of  filling.  This  system  has 
given  very  satisfactory  results  in  a 
number  of  mills. 

We  are  also  using  in  a  number 
of  mills  our  No.  15  needle  feeler. 
This  feeler  operates  on  the  principle 
of  relative  penetrability.  It  has 
protruding  beyond  its  larger  contact 
surface  a  needle  point  backed  by  a 
spring  strong  enough  to  maintain  the 
point  in  its  forward  position  as  long 
as  this  point  comes  in  contact  with 
filling.  The  filling  being  relatively 
easily  penetrated  by  the  needle  point 
allows  the  point  to  sink  into  its 
mass  and  does  not  overcome  the 
strength  of  the  spring.  When, 
is  woven  off  enough  to  allow  the 
in  contact  with  the  hard  surface  of  the 
bobbin  the  resistance  of  the  spring  is  overcome  and  a  change 
of  filling  caused  before  its  complete  exhaustion.  This  device 
has  gone  into  use  in  some  mills. 

In  connection  with  our  feeler  we  recommend  the  use  on 
the  spinning  frame  of  one  of  our  patented  devices  to  produce 
a  preliminary  winding  or  reserve  supply  of  filling  of  short 
traverse.  Of  necessity  some  yarn  must  be  ejected  with  the 
out-going  bobbin  and  this  quantity  will  be  smallest  if  the 
traverse  at  the  time  of  transfer  be  as  short  as  practical. 
We  build  these  devices  for  all  spinning  frames  in  use  in  our 
customers'  mills. 


■ 


Straw  Bobbin. 

however,  the  filling 
needle  point  to  come 


WE  A  VING. 


315 


High  Roll  Take-up. 
Spur  Gear. 


316 


WE  A  VING, 


High  Roll  Take-up. 
Worm  and  Worm  Gear. 

Our  take-up  motions  are  of  two  types,  spur  gear  and 
worm.  With  the  introduction  of  cut  gears  and  the 
advantages  that  come  from  the  perfected  action  of  these 
gears,  the  tendency  is  more  and  more  towards  the  worm 
take-up,  although  on  certain  grades  of  goods  the  spur  gear 
take-up  is  still  used.  The  high  roll  take-up  introduced  by  us 
and  generally  used  on  our  looms  has  the  advantage  of 
enabling  a  much  larger  quantity  of  cloth  to  be  wound  on  the 
take-up  cloth  roll  shaft  than  was  possible  on  the  low  roll 
take-up. 

On  some  types  of  goods  where  heavy  pick  goods  are 
used  and  where  the  goods  are  full,  it  is  advisable  to  interpose 
some  means  to  take  up  the  oscillating  pull  on  the  cloth 
between  the  fell  and  the  take-up  roll.  This  pull  results  in 
chafing  the  cloth  on  the  take-up  roll  and  putting  a  strain 
through  it  on  the  train  of  gears  in  the  take-up  motion. 


IVEA  VING. 


317 


Nutting  Take-Up. 
Various  Methods  of  Operating. 


Nutting  High  Roll  Worm  Take-up. 


For  this  purpose  we  use  our  patent  Nutting  Take-up  and 
the  cloth  is  drawn  in  various  ways  over  and  around  the  cloth 
guides  as  the  grade  of  cloth  demands.  We  also  have  a 
corduroy  take-up  which  handles  very  high  pick  goods,  and  is 
a  combination  between  the  high  and  low  roll  take-up. 


318 


WE  A  VING. 


Draper-Roper  Let-off. 


Our  Draper-Roper  let-off  has  gone  into  extensive  use 
and  for  the  majority  of  looms  is  the  best  let-off.  For 
evenness  of  let-off,  through  its  capacity  to  let  off  at  each 
pick  and  at  the  same  time  to  increase  its  amount  on  any  pick 
where  the  strain  on  the  whip  roll  has  become  great,  it  is 
unexcelled.  It  is  also  so  designed  that  with  the  diminishing 
diameter  of  the  yarn  mass  on  the  yarn  beam,  the  normal 
length  of  stroke  of  the  pick  pawl  is  gradually  increased,  thus 
automatically  keeping  the  tension  of  yarn  from  full  to  empty 
beam  uniform.  Where  the  character  of  the  goods  requires  it 
we  use  other  types  of  let  off. 


WE  A  VING. 


Draper-Roper  Let-off  with  Vibrating  Whip  Roll. 


There  is  a  large  use  of  this  let-off  in  combination  with  the 
vibrating  whip  roll.  This  predetermined  motion  of  the  whip 
roll  is  an  aid  to  some  kinds  of  weaving  in  that  it  tightens  the 
warp  between  the  whip  roll  and  fell  of  the  cloth  and  is 
timed  to  meet  the  requirements  of  various  weaves. 

The  goods  woven  on  the  Northrop  Loom  are  now  so 
diversified  that  a  great  variety  of  harness-motions  are  in  use 
on  our  looms,  side  cams,  dobby,  jacquard,  roll  and  shaft,  in 
fact  all  the  harness  motions  used  in  single-shuttle  weaving. 


320 


WE  A  VING, 


Lacey  Top. 

This  cut  and  the  following  one  represent  two  types  of 
harness-motion  patented  and  introduced  by  us.  The  Lacey 
top  harness-motion  can  be  used  either  for  2,  3,  4,  5  or  6 
harnesses,  where  there  are  multiple  shades  of  even  sequence. 


DwiGHT  Spring  Top. 

We  have  developed  our  Dwight  Top  to  take  care  of  cases 
where  it  is  desired  to  set  each  harness  independently  and 
where  the  sequence  is  irregular  and  can  be  made  for  as  high 
as  eight  harnesses. 


WE  A  VI NG, 


321 


The  two  main  accessories  necessary  for  the  operation  of 
a  Northrop  loom  are  bobbins  and  shuttles.  These  two 
adjuncts  are  bought  at  the  same  time  as  the  loom  and  being 
made  of  wood  wear  out  much  faster  than  the  loom  itself,  in 
the  case  of  the  shuttle  the  usuage  being  both  violent  and 
constant.  Our  customers  know  this  and  we  know  it.  We 
manufacture  these  two  articles  with  quality  our  first 
consideration.  We  realize  that  they  are  relatively 
perishable  elements,  and  the  better  we  can  make  them  the 
better  for  the  running  of  the  loom,  and  the  better  for  our 
customers. 


Northrop  Loom  Bobbins  and  Cop  Skewers. 


As  to  bobbins,  we  have  for  some  years  manufactured 
our  own  bobbins  from  tree  to  loom.  Our  complete  bobbin 
blank  plant,  our  specially  designed  machinery  and  our 
personal  interest  in  the  success  of  the  Northrop  Loom  all 
contribute  to  our  making  bobbins  of  the  first  quality.  We 
furnish  cop  skewers  and  the  same  care  and  interest  go  into 
their  make-up  as  is  put  into  our  bobbins. 


322 


WE  A  VING, 


V 


Northrop  Loom  Shuttles. 


Northrop  Loom  Shuttles. 


324 


IVEA  VING. 


Our  shuttles  are  manufactured  with  the  same  end  in 
view,  the  best  possible  product.  We  want  Northrop  loom 
users  to  buy  their  most  important  supply  from  us  because  we 
know  how  essential  a  properly  made  shuttle  is  to  the  loom. 
Our  best  types  of  shuttles  can  be  secured  nowhere  else;  they 
are  a  patented  product  and  are  sold  only  for  use  in  looms 
made  by  us  or  our  licensees. 

The  illustrations  show  the  more  commonly  used  types  of 
springs  and  eyes  and  cover  the  great  majority  of  all 
outstanding  shuttles. 


LOOM  REPAIRS. 

On  the  permanent  parts  of  the  looms  we  advocate 
persistently  that  Northrop  Loom  repairs  be  bought  from  us 
as  Northrop  Loom  Builders.  Our  service  is  unequalled.  We 
make  it  a  point  to  give  first  attention  to  repair  orders.  The 
best  way  to  cultivate  the  field  for  orders  for  new  looms  is  to 
keep  such  looms  as  we  have  in  the  mills  in  the  best  of  running 
order  and  making  cloth.  Local  foundries  cannot  have  the 
same  interest  that  we  do  nor  can  they  make  as  good  castings 
from  our  castings  as  patterns  as  we  can  from  the  original 
patterns.  Even  assuming  the  use  of  patterns,  they  do  not 
appreciate  the  importance  of  correct  sizes  and  shapes  of  parts 
for  they  cannot  realize  the  relation  of  one  part  to  another  or 
to  the  whole  as  we  must,  nor  can  they  get  the  necessary 
information.  They  have  no  access  to  the  drawings  from 
which  we  make  our  patterns  and  it  is  impossible  to  take  a 
finished  casting  with  its  variation  from  its  pattern  and  make 
a  pattern  to  duplicate  the  original.  Where  machining  is 
necessary  the  machine  shop  in  the  mill  has  not  our  fixtures 
and  cannot  give  duplicate  results.  Where  trouble  is  to  be 
looked  up  in  the  operation  of  a  particular  loom,  past 
experience  is  of  no  aid  if  a  repair  casting  has  been  put 
into  the  mechanism  that  is  not  from  the  same  pattern  as  the 
broken  piece.  This  means  a  return  to  fundamentals  and  a 
long  delay  in  clearing  the  ground  that  would  be  entirely 
unnecessary  if  our  castings  be  used  throughout.  Service  is 
another  consideration  that  should  weigh  very  heavily  with  a 
mill.  An  idle  loom  is  making  no  money  and  a  constant  worry 
to  ambitious  wide-awake  overseers.  The  mill,  because  its 
order  is  so  small  in  proportion  to  the  total  output  of  a  local 
foundry,  cannot  be  its  first  consideration.  With  us,  service 
for  the  mill  is  the  first  consideration. 


WE  A  VING. 


325 


Speeds     Recommended    for    Northrop    Looms  for 
Medium  Weight  Goods. 


28" 

'  ■■  ■ 

185  to  190 

! 

1  64" 

■ 

1 24  to  1 28 

:^0" 

180  to  185 

'  6S" 

120  to  124 

32" 

175  to  ISO 

1  72" 

116  to  120 

34" 

170  to  175 

1  76" 

112  to  116 

36" 

165  to  170 

1  80" 

108  to  112 

3S" 

163  to  168 

1  84" 

104  to  108 

40" 

160  to  165 

1  88" 

100  to  104 

42" 

154  to  158 

90" 

100  to  104 

44" 

148  to  152 

1  96" 

96  to  100 

46" 

144  to  148 

1  100" 

92  to  96 

48" 

140  to  144 

1  104" 

90  to  94 

52" 

136  to  140 

1  108" 

88  to  92 

56" 

132  to  136 

\  110" 

86  to  90 

60" 

128  to  132 

The  following  cuts  illustrate  our  leading  models  of 
loom.  They  are  designed  to  meet  various  cloth  conditions, 
varying  weaves.  It  would  be  impossible  to  divide  and  assign 
to  each  class  of  goods  a  particular  loom  to  be  invariably 
used. 

In  settling  this  question  our  customers  have  the  benefit 
of  our  long  experience  and  careful  consideration  of  the  cloth 
desired  to  be  produced.  Our  various  models  cover  however 
a  range  which  among  other  goods  includes: — 

Broad  and  narrow  sheetings,  pillow  tubing,  seamless 
bags,  chambrays,  blankets,  flannels,  ginghams,  coutils, 
wide  and  narrow  convertible  goods,  Jacquard  woven 
bedspreads,  worsted  dress  goods,  standard  print  cloths, 
turkish  towels,  book  cloths,  corduroys,  hollands,  domets, 
velvets,  drills,  **Red  Cross''  bandages  and  surgeons' 
specialties,  warp  and  filling  sateens,  automobile  cloths, 
cottonades,  saxony  cloth,  flannelettes,  osnaburgs,  shirtings, 
tickings,  coarse  specialties,  fine  silk  and  cotton  goods,  oil 
cloth  goods,  crash  towels,  cambrics,  flat  duck,  stripes, 
denims,  lawns,  jeans,  Jacquard  woven  specialties,  khaki 
goods  for  United  States  and  other  governments,  table  cloths 
and  damasks,  worsted  linings,  curtain  fabrics,  Marseilles 
quilts,  asbestos  goods,  seersuckers,  skirtings,  organdies, 
percales,  mosquito  nettings,  very  fine  fancy  goods,  awnings, 
twills,  Marquisettes,  wide  print  cloths,  outing  cloths,  shade 
cloths,  fancy  dobby  weaves,  covert  cloths,  percales, 
dimities,  cheviots,  alpacas,  crepes,  silesias,  etc. 


326 


IVEA  VING. 


Modified  D  Model  Worsted  Loom. 


The  loom  shown  in  this  cut  is  equipped  with  20  harness 
Crompton  &  Knowles  Intermediate  head,  Center  fork 
stop-motion,  Side  fork  at  Battery  end.  No.  8  Finished  Feeler, 
No.  14  Battery,  Low  Roll  Spur  Gear  Take-up,  extra  heavy 
Friction  Let-off,  Yielding  Whip  Roll. 


IVEA  VING.  327 


The  loom  shown  in  this  cut  has  Roll  and  Shaft  Top, 
String  Harness,  Cams  on  Cam  Shaft,  High  Roll  Spur  Gear 
Take-up,  Single  Fork,  No.  3  Battery,  Tight  and  Loose 
Pulleys,  No.  2  Single  Thread  Warp  Stop-Motion,  Bartlett 
and  Chain  Friction  Let-Off. 


IVEA  VING. 


36  Inch  E  Model  Loom. 


The  loom  shown  in  this  cut  is  equipped  with  Lacey  Top, 
Cams  on  Auxiliary  Shaft  (4  shade),  String  Harness,  Single 
Fork  provided  for  Feeler,  No.  15  Battery,  Tight  and  Loose 
Pulley,  High  Roll  Spur  Gear  Take-Up,  No.  8  Single  Thread 
Warp  Stop-Motion. 


IVEA  VING.  329 


E  Model  Loom. 


The  loom  shown  in  this  cut  has  for  equipment  the 
D wight  Spring  Top,  String  Harness,  5  Shade  Cams  on 
Auxiliary  Shaft,  Single  Fork,  No.  13  Battery,  High  Roll 
Worm  Take-up,  No.  5  Stimpson  Selvage  Motion,  No.  8 
Single  Thread  Warp  Stop-Motion. 


330 


IVEA  VING. 


E  Model  Side  Cam  Bag  Loom. 


The  loom  shown  in  this  cut  has  Side  Cam-motion  for 
bag  weave,  No.  26  Special  Bagging  Take-up  with  Spike 
Roll,  and  chain  for  controlling  length  of  bags.  Steel 
Harness  Warp  Stop-Motion,  Double  Fork,  No.  3  Battery  and 
Tight  and  Loose  Pulleys. 


WE  A  VING. 


3:ii 


H  Model  Loom. 


The  loom  shown  in  this  cut  has  Side  Cam  Motion, 
Semi-Low  Roll  Take-Up,  Corduroy  type,  Worm  Drive, 
No.  3  Battery,  Single  Fork  with  Feeler,  Vibrating  Whip 
Roll,  vibrating  from  Swords,  No.  2  Single  Thread  Warp 
Stop-Motion. 


332 


VING, 


K  Model  Loom. 


The  loom  shown  in  this  cut  has  20  Harness  Crompton  & 
Knowles  Stafford  type  of  Dobby;  also  cross  shaft  type  of 
Roll  and  Shaft  Top  suspended  from  Dobby  arches,  Single 
Fork,  No.  8  Finished  Feeler,  No.  5  Battery  for  Cops,  Disc 
Friction  Pulley,  High  Roll  Worm  Take-Up,  Whip  Roll  with 
Durkin  Preventer,  No.  7  Single-Thread  Warp  Stop-Motion. 


WE  A  VING, 


333 


The  loom  shown  in  this  cut  is  equipped  with  Roll  and 
Shaft  Top  String  Harness,  2  Shade  cams  on  Auxiliary 
Shafts,  High  Roll  Spur  Gear  Take-Up,  Single  Fork,  No.  3 
Battery,  Easy  Shipping  Motion,  Disc  Friction  Pulley, 
Auxiliary  Drive,  Cut  Driving  Gears,  No.  2  Single-Thread 
Warp  Stop-Motion,  Compound  Let-off  for  2-piece  Beam. 


L  Model  Loom  with  Jacquard. 


WEA  VING.  335 


P  Model  Loom. 


The  loom  shown  in  this  cut  has  the  Dwight  Spring  Top, 
5  Shade  Cams  on  Auxiliary  Shaft,  String  Harness,  No.  15 
Battery,  Single  Fork,  No.  8  Finished  Feeler,  Easy 
Shipping  Motion,  High  Roll  Spur  Gear  Take-Up,  Friction 
Let-Off,  No.  8  Single  Thread  Warp  Stop-Motion,  3  Banks 
of  Drop  Wires. 


IV  E A  VfNG, 


LOOM  TEMPLES. 


The  loom  temple  we  have  been  manufacturing  for  a  long 
time.  For  its  earliest  improvements  our  predecessors  were 
solely  responsible.  The  cylindrical  toothed  roll  reciprocating 
temple  was  introduced  to  the  trade  from  Hopedale  and  has 
been  used  universally  on  common  looms  for  sixty  years,  and 
is  a  necessary  element  in  our  Northrop  Loom. 

Our  designs  have  kept  pace  with  the  advance  of  weaving, 
and  we  have  temples  prepared  to  meet  the  requirements  of 
any  of  the  manifold  types  of  woven  goods.  Wherever  cases 
arise  that  need  special  treatment  we  are  glad  to  give  our 
trained  consideration  to  the  problem. 

Our  foundry  work  on  temple  castings  is  very  high.  Our 
equipment  in  patterns  and  molding  machines  is  complete  and 
our  standard  of  foundry  product  in  size  and  smoothness  of 
surface  is  unexcelled. 

On  temple  rolls,  we  have  the  advantage  of  long 
experience  and  the  use  of  highly  specialized  machinery  used 
in  the  various  processes  that  have  to  do  with  the  making  of 
the  teeth  and  the  drilling  and  setting  of  the  rolls.  There  is 
no  other  outfit  that  can  compare  with  ours  in  this  line.  All 
of  our  temple  rolls  are  marked  with  our  trade-marks  and  the 
rolls  are  sold  for  use  only  in  temples  made  by  us. 

With  the  advent  of  the  Northrop  loom  we  developed  the 
thread-cutting  temple.  The  later  types  of  this  device  with 
our  more  recent  improvements  we  control  by  patents  and  put 
on  all  our  Northrop  looms. 

The  following  cuts  show  a  few  representative  types  of 
temples,  bat  do  not  begin  to  comprise  the  number  of  temples 
we  carry  to  adequately  cover  our  field. 


WEA  VING. 


Heavy  Double  Roll  Temple  for  Duck  of 
Certain  Grades. 


Double  Roll  Temple.   L  Section  Bar. 


WE  A  VING. 


339 


2y2  Inch  Roll  L  Bar 
Thread  Cutting  Temple. 


340 


WE  A  vnvG. 


Rubber  Roll  Temple. 


WE  A  VING. 


341 


Hardaker  Worsted  Temple. 


Knowles  Worsted  Temple. 


Dawson  Temple  for  Worsteds. 


342 


SAMPLE  SPECIFICATIONS. 


SAMPLE  SPECIFICATIONS. 

The  following  sample  specifications  of  complete  machines 
made  by  the  Draper  Company  are  intended  to  be  of  service 
in  showing  people  connected  with  mills  what  points  have  to 
be  considered  in  ordering  machinery. 

They  give  all  the  questions  asked  in  actually  entering  an 
order,  but  are  not  intended  for  this  use  because  minor 
changes  have  sometimes  to  be  made  and  we  prefer  to  handle 
this  matter  on  prepared  specification  blanks. 


Sample  of 
SPECIFICATION  OF  WARPERS 

ORDERED  FROM 

DRAPER  COMPANY,  HOPEDALE,  MASS. 

Name  Date  19 

Place 

Ship  to  Via  what  route? 

How  many  Right  Hand  warpers  ? 
How  many  Left  Hand  warpers? 
What  model? 

Rise  or  Drop  roll  machine? 
Do  you  want  the  Hicks  Cone  Drive? 
Do  you  want  the  Beam  Doffer? 
What  len.iJ:th  of  cylinder? 

Our  usual  length  is  54  inches. 
Diameter  of  Beam  Heads? 
Diameter  of  barrel  of  Beams? 
Largest  number  of  threads  on  Section  Beam? 
Clock  for  how  many  Raps? 
No.  of  yards  per  Rap? 

Will  you  drive  the  Beam  with  threads  running  over  or  under? 
Do  you  belt  from  above  or  below?  Do  you  want  Front  Comb? 
Will  you  have  back  combs  or  high  or  low  back  reeds? 

Reeds  are  covered  on  top;  combs  are  not.    High  reed  5' 

between  top  rail  and  case,  low  reed  3''. 


SAMPLE  SPECIFICATIONS, 


343 


How  many  section  beams? 
How  many  V  Creels? 

Number  of  Spools?         How  many  high?  Long? 
What  height  is  your  room,  floor  to  ceiling? 
Will  you  have  Iron  or  Glass  Creel  Steps? 
What  number  of  Yarn? 
Number  ply  if  Twisted? 
Send  sample  spool,  also  skewer,  if  used. 
In  sending  samples  please  specify  where  from. 
Additional  specifications  furnished  when  Balling  Motion  is 
desired. 


Sample  of 

SPECIFICATIONS  OF  BALLING  MACHINES, 

ORDERED  FROM 

THE  DRAPER  COMPANY,  HOPEDALE,  MASS. 

For  Date  19 

Place 

Ship  to  Via  what  route? 

How  many  for  Right  Hand  Warper? 
How  many  for  Left  Hand  Warper? 

How  many  Balls  to  be  wound  on  one  machine,  (one  or  two)? 
What  model  of  machine? 

What  length  of  Traverse?    (Regular  size  30  inches.) 

How  many  wood  rolls?  Shell  or  Solid? 

Clock  to  stop  every  yards. 

Register  to  register  up  to  yards. 

Are  Leasing  Motions  wanted?        Are  Lease  Combs  wanted? 

How  many  ends  on  inches? 

What  make  of  Warper  is  Balling  machine  to  be  applied  to? 

Do  you  use  Machines  for  both  Ball  and  Beam  warping? 

Length  of  Cylinder? 

Diameter  of  Cylinder? 

Diameter  of  Measuring  Roll? 

Diameter  of  Measuring  Roll  Shaft  for  Clock  Worm? 
Distance  between  ribs  of  Warper  sides? 
Diameter  of  Beam  Arm  Girt? 
Diameter  of  Cylinder  Gear? 
No.  of  Teeth  in  Cyhnder  Gear? 


344 


SAMPLE  SPECIFICATIONS. 


Distance  between  Cylinder  Gear  and  Warper  Side? 

If  you  are  supplied  with  Rolls,  are  they  Shell  or  Solid  and 

what  is  the  Length? 
If  Shell  Rolls,  give  diameter  of  Shaft      Length  over  all 
Distance  between  shoulders 

Our  standard  size  for  this  shaft  at  square  part  is  l-Yie" 

diameter,  but  we  can  furnish  l^A"  if  desired.  Ends  of 

shaft  are  Hie"  diameter  (round.) 
What  number  Yarn? 
Number  Ply  if  Twisted? 

What  is  diameter  of  head  and  length  of  traverse  on  the 
spool  used  in  warper  creel? 


Sample  of 
SPECIFICATIONS  OF  SPOOLERS 

ORDERED  FROM 

DRAPER  COMPANY,  HOPEDALE,  MASS. 

Name  Date  191 

Place 

Ship  to  Via  what  route? 

How  many  Spoolers? 
How  many  Spindles  each? 
Single  or  Double  Rail? 

Pattern  of  Spooler,  *'E,''  ^'H,''  'T'  or  ^^K'^? 

'*K''  is  an  **H''  Model  without  Bobbin  Chutes. 
Send  Sample  Spindle  if  top  is  to  match  others,  or  give  exact 

diameter  of  top. 
What  length  traverse? 
What  Gauge? 

Bobbin  Holders  or  Side  Spindles? 

Rhoades  Patent  Bobbin  Holder  recommended  for  *'H" 
Model,  also  recommended  for  '1"  Model  when  Belt 
Delivery  is  used;  Lawrence  Patent  if  without  Chutes 
or  Belt.  On  *'E''  Model,  only  Lawrence  Patent  can  be 
used.  We  do  not  recommend  Bobbin  Holders  for 
spooling  Twister  Bobbins. 

Send  Bobbin  full  of  Yarn. 

Send  Sample  Spool. 

What   Style  Guide?    Improved    Northrop,    Lawrence  or 

MacColl? 
Give  size  of  Spinning  Ring  used. 
Give  number  of  Yarn  to  be  spooled. 


SAMPLE  SPE  CI  PICA  TIONS. 


345 


Will  you  have  Bobbin  Chutes? 

On  **E''  Model  Spoolers  we  charge  15  cents  per  Spindle 

extra.    We  furnish  without  extra  charge  on  ''H"  Model. 

We  do  not  use  Chutes  on  ''V  Model. 
Will  you  have  Spool  Raising  Device?     (25  cents  per  spindle 

extra.)        (Recommended  for  Heavy  Spools.) 
Will  you  have  Top  Creel? 

Will  you  have  Side  Boxes  or  Shelves?  (If  Shelves,  give 
outside  measurement  of  height  and  width  of  Doffing 
Boxes. ) 

Will  you  have  Top  Creel  and  boxes  of  Steel  or  Wood? 
We  recommend  steel. 
Belt  Above  or  Below? 

What  diameter  Pulley?  Face? 
Shall  Machine  be  Shod  or  Taken  Down  for  Shipping? 
When  Wanted? 


Sample  of 
SPECIFICATIONS  OF  TWISTERS, 

ORDERED  FROM 

DRAPER  COMPANY,  HOPEDALE,  MASS. 

Name  Date  191 

Place 

Ship  to  Via  what  route? 

How  many  Wet  Twisters? 
How  many  Dry  Twisters? 

Will  you  have  Flat  Tape,  or  Round  Band  Drive? 
How  many  Spindles  in  each? 
What  pattern  of  Spindle? 

If  matching  a  present  lot,   send  sample  bobbin  and 

spindle  to  ensure  duplication. 
Are  brakes  required  on  spindles? 
Single  or  double  Boss  Top  Rolls? 
Single  or  double  Line  Top  Rolls? 
Single  or  double  Line  Bottom  Rolls? 
What  Gauge? 
Size  of  Ring? 

Kind  of  Ring?     (Vertical  or  flat-top?) 
If  Vertical  Rings,  is  Carter  Oiling  Device  desired? 
Extra  charge  for  this. 


346 


SAMPLE  SPECIFICATIONS, 


What  length  traverse? 

Will  you  have  Warp,  Filling  or  Combination  wind  building 
motion? 

If  combination,  state  what  we  shall  send  out  the  machine 
set  up  on? 

Will  you  use  Single  or  Double-headed  Bobbin? 
What  number  yarn  will  you  twist? 
How  many  ply? 

For  how  many  turns  twist  per  inch  shall  Twisters  be  geared? 

We  furnish  three  twist  gears  and  charge  extra  if  more 

are  ordered. 
Will  you  twist  from  beams  or  spools? 

If  you  twist  from  spool,  send  samiple  that  you  twist  from? 
In  sending  Spools,  please  specify  on  same  where  they  are 
from. 

Do  you  want  T.  H.  Smith  Stop-Motion? 

Recommended    especially  for  two-ply.     Extra  charge,  Not 

recommended  for  wet  twisting. 
Do  you  want  Wire  Board  Lifters? 
Do  you  want  Traverse  Motion  for  Yarn  on  Rolls? 
Unless  otherwise  specified.  Cylinders  on  round  band  drive 

Twisters  are  8  inches  diameter;  on  flat  tape  drive  10 

inches  diameter? 
What  Diameter  Pulley?  Face  of  Pulley? 

Pulleys  run  from  8  to  20  inches,  by  half  inches,  2  to 

4^  inch  faces.  We  recommend  12  inches  or  larger  pulleys. 
How  belted,  from  Above  or  Below? 
Shall  machines  be  Shod,  or  taken  down  and  Boxed? 


Sample  of 
SPECIFICATIONS  OF  REELS 

ORDERED  FROM 

DRAPER  COMPANY,  HOPEDALE,  MASS. 

Name  Date  19 

Place 

Ship  to  Via  what  route? 

How  many  Reels  with  driving  pulleys  on  Right  hand  end? 

How  many  Reels  with  driving  pulleys  on  Left  hand  end? 

How  many  Spindles  each? 

Live  or  Dead  Spindles? 


SAMPLE  SPECIFICATIONS, 


347 


Space  between  spindles? 

Size  of  skein  desired?  (54,  60  or  72  inch)? 

Regular  or  Grant  Wind? 

Yarn  to  be  reeled  from  Spool,  Bobbin  or  Cop? 

Send  Sample  full  of  yarn? 

Gong  to  strike  at  each  (hank  or      yards)  ? 

Give  number  of  Yarn  to  be  reeled? 

Is  Change  Gear  Clock  Wanted?    (Extra  Charge). 

Belt  Above  or  Below? 

Shall  Machines  be  Shod  or  Taken  Down  for  Shipping? 


Sample  of 

SPECIFICATIONS  OF  NORTHROP  LOOMS 

ORDERED  FROM 

DRAPER  COMPANY,  HOPEDALE,  MASS. 

Make  out  separate  specifications  for  each  model  and  size  of 
loom. 

For  Date  ordered  19 

Address  Ship  to 

Number  Size  Model 

Right-Hand  Belt  from  Above? 

Left-Hand  Belt  from  Above? 

Right-Hand  Belt  from  Below? 

Left-Hand  Belt  from  Below? 
Kind  of  Cloth  to  be  woven?  Width?  Sley? 

For  what  number  of  picks  shall  we  furnish  Pick  Gears? 

Gears  in  excess  of  one  per  Loom  charged  extra. 
For  what  number  of  picks  shall  we  set  up  Looms? 
Number  of  Warp  Yarn        Number  of  filling  Yarn? 
Number  of  threads  in  Warp? 
Shall  looms  duplicate  others  in  the  mill? 
If  so,  give  date  of  previous  order? 
Is  filling  on  Bobbins  or  Cops? 
Total  length  of  Bobbins  or  Cops? 

NOTE:— It  is  necessary  to  send  several  sample  cops  with 
mule  spindle,  or  bobbin  and  spindle.  Mark  Mule 
Spindle  top  and  bottom,  where  Cop  fits.  Our  regular 
sizes  of  bobbins  take  5^^"  traverse  on  a  bobbin  6%^^ 
long;  eVs"  on  a  bobbin  7%''  long;  6%'^  traverse  on  a 


348 


SAMPLE  SPECIFICATIONS, 


bobbin  8"  long  and  7^^"  traverse  on  a  bobbin  8%'^  ; 
long.    At  least  200  per  loom  should  be  provided.  Our  } 
regular  cop  sizes  are  5^^,  BVs  and  6%  Traverse. 
When  cops  are  used  we  send  30  skewers  with  each 
loom.    These  are  charged  extra. 
Shall  we  make  Bobbin  or  Cop  Heads  Standard  Butt  ? 
"  Give  largest  diameter  of  full  filling  Bobbin  or  Cop  measured  ! 
on  the  Yarn? 

Number  of  Battery?  Diameter  of  Spinning  Ring? 

What  Take-up? 

NOTE:— Our  **High  Roll''  construction  admits  of  winding 
any  diameter  Cloth  Roll  up  to  17^'.  Embodied  with 
this  we  have  three  separate  styles  of  Take-up. 

Our  regular  pattern  takes  up  with  every  pick  and  lets 
back  to  prevent  thin  places. 

Our  Worm  Take-up  without  the  let-back  feature,  is  a 
positive  take-up,  and  is  especially  designed  for 
corduroys,  velvets  and  similar  fabrics  which  require 
200  picks  per  inch  and  above. 

Our  Worm  Take-up  with  let-back  is  designed  for  those 
who  require  a  positive  take-up  and  still  desire  the 
let-back  feature. 
What  Let-off? 

NOTE: — We  furnish  Roper;  Bartlett;  Friction;  Roper  and 
Friction;  or  Bartlett  and  Friction  combined. 
On  **L''  Model  looms  we  furnish  Compound  Let-off  and 
Compound  with   friction;  on  Corduroy  looms  we 
furnish  a  special  let-off. 

If  friction  Let-off  shall  we  order  Chain,  Fibre  or  Rope  Friction?  ; 

What  Whip  Roll  Combination? 

NOTE: — Drag  Rolls  are  used  only  for  very  heavy  weaves,  , 
heavy   denims    and   goods  of  this  character.    If  | 
wanted,  specify  whether  light  or  heavy  pipe. 
We  recommend  for  most  cloths  Plain  Pipe  Whip  Rolls; 
for  heavy  weaves,  not  taking  Drag  Rolls,  Vibrating 
Whip  Rolls;  for  very  light  weaves,  Durkin  Thick  and  | 
Thin  Place  Preventors.  Unless  Vibrating  Whip  Rolls, 
Thick  and  Thin  Place  Preventors  or  Drag  Rolls  are 
specified,  we  shall  furnish  with  Plain  Pipe  Roll. 

Will  you  have  Feeler?       What  type  shall  we  furnish? 

Will  you  have  looms  provided  to  take  Feeler  later? 

Will  you  have  Single  or  Double  Fork? 

NOTE:— Double  Fork  Looms  measure  2"  more  between  loom 
sides  than  single  fork  (except  on  **L"  Model  Looms.) 
Bunch  Builders:   Quantity?  Make  of  Spinning  Frame? 

Shall  we  get  measurements  at  Mill  or  Shop? 


SAMPLE  SPECIFICATIONS. 


34& 


NOTE: — When  feeler  is  used  an  attachment  on  spmning^ 
frames,  called  the  Bunch  Builder,  is  required  to  wind 
bunch  of  yarn  on  bobbin. 

What  Warp  Stop-Motion  is  required? 

NOTE  :— We  have  four  kinds: 

Steel  harness  using  one  steel  heddle  for  every  warp 

thread,  adapted  for  2-3-4  and  5  harness  work. 
Drop-wire    Stop-motion    for    cotton    harness,  which 
requires  one  drop  wire  for  every  two  warp  threads 
in    a  two-harness  loom;  adapted  for  2-3-4  and  5 
harness  work. 

Single  Thread  Stop-motion  for  cotton  harness,  using  one 
drop  wire  for  every  warp  thread.    This  stop-motion 
is  adapted  for  any  number  of  harnesses  from  2  up 
and  can  be  arranged  with  2-3  or  4  Banks. 
Single  thread  Lease  Rod  Stop-motions,  for  use  with  two 
banks  of  Drop  Wires. 
How  many  Steel  Heddles  or  Drop  Wires? 
Are  they  to  be  punched  for  use  in  American  Warp  Drawing 
Machine? 

Will  you  have  No.  1,  No.  6  or  No.  9  Warp  Stop-Motion 
Knock-off? 

How  many  looms  arranged  for  2  Harnesses? 

How  many  for  2  and  3  Harnesses?        How  many  up? 

How  many  down? 
How  many  for  2,  3  &  4  Harnesses?      How  many  up? 

How  many  down? 
How  many  for  2,  3,  4  &  5  Harnesses?    How  many  up? 

How  many  down? 
How  many  for  2,  3,  4,  5  and  6  Harnesses?       How  many  up? 

How  many  down? 
What  Harness  Motion? 

NOTE:— We  furnish  the  Roll  and  Shaft  Top  Harness-motion; 
the  Lacey  Top;  Stimpson  Top;  or  Dwight  Spring  Top. 
We  adapt  our  looms  to  take  Dobbies  made  by  Crompton 

&  Knowles  Loom  Works. 
We  also  furnish  Special  Side  Cam  Motion  for  Corduroy, 
Bag  and  Tubing  Looms. 
On  what  No.  of  Harnesses  shall  we  set  up  looms? 
How  many  up?  How  many  down? 

How  many  degrees  rest  shall  we  make  Harness  Cams? 
Are  Cams  on  Cam  Shaft  or  Auxiliary  Shaft? 
If  Auxiliary  Shaft,  shall  we  send  gears  to  run  2-3-4  and  5 
shade? 

Single  or  Double  Jack  Hooks?  (Not  used  with 

Steel  Harness.) 


350 


SAMPLE  SPECIFICATIONS, 


Shall  we  supply  Dobbies?         How  many  Harnesses? 
What  pattern? 

Is  Dobby  to  be  driven  from  Cam  or  Crank  Shaft? 
Pawl  or  Worm  Drive?  Single  or  Double  Index? 

Shall  we  supply  Single  or  Double  Spring  Jack;  or  Direct 
Springs? 

Is  Independent  Selvage  Motion  required?         Plain  or  Tape? 
Which  Selvage  Motion  do  you  want  the  Looms  set  up  for? 
Tight  &  Loose  or  Friction  Pulley?  Are  Cork  Inserts 

wanted  with  Friction  Pulleys? 
What  Diameter  and  Face  of  Driving  Pulley? 
What  width  of  Belt? 

NOTE:— Regular  size  for  tight  and  loose  pulleys,  12" 
diameter,  2V4"  face  for  28"  loom.  14"  diameter, 
2^/4"  face,  for  40"  loom.  We  strongly  recommend 
this  width  of  face,  as  wider  pulleys  are  much  more 
troublesome  in  shifting  belts. 

We  furnish  16%  inch,  18  inch,  and  20  inch  Beam  Heads. 
Which  do  you  require? 

NOTE:— When  20"  heads  are  used  looms  measure  3''  more 
in  depth  than  with  18''.  Regular  heads  for  our 
broad  sheeting  looms  are  16"  diameter. 

Distance  between  Heads? 

NOTE:— For  proper  width  between  Beam  Heads  we 
recommend  4"  more  than  size  of  loom.  For  those 
desiring  extra  space  we  supply  Beams  5y2"  wider 
than  the  size  of  the  loom.  For  L  Model  looms  we 
recommend  8"  wider  than  size  of  loom. 

We  furnish  5"  and  6"  diameter  Yarn  Beams.  Which  do  you 
prefer? 

NOTE:— We  recommend  6"  barrel  for  20"  Beam  Heads,  also 

with  smaller  heads  if  for  fine  yarn. 
What  width  and  type  of  Shuttle  is  required? 
How  many  extra  Shuttles?        (Only  one  per  loom  included 

without  extra  charge.) 
Will  you  have  Temples  with  1%",  2ii>",  3V2"  or  4V4"  Rolls? 
How  many  Cop  Skewers?         Are  they  to  have  plain  or 

corrugated  blades? 
We  usually  furnish  30  per  loom.    These  are  charged  extra. 
How  many  Bobbins?  Style? 
Are  tips  of  Bobbins  to  be  painted?       If  so  what  color? 
Oil  filled  or  not? 

Shall  we  supply  Bobbins  with  Brass  Bushings  in  top  or 

bottom  of  Bobbin,  or  both? 
There  is  an  extra  charge  for  applying  Brass  Bushings. 
NOTE:— Send  sample  spindle  for  use  in  fitting  Bobbins. 


SAMPLE  SPECIFICATIONS. 


351 


Will  you  have  Bolton  Loom  Seats?  (One  to  each  eight 

looms— no  charge.) 

Shall  we  supply  Loom  Trucks  for  moving  the  Looms? 

These  may  be  purchased  or  will  be  credited  upon  return. 

NOTE:— Send  us  one  complete  reed  such  as  you  intend  using 
on  these  looms.  On  orders  for  25  to  100  looms,2  reeds: 
over  this  quantity,  3.  As  the  contraction  on  our  High 
Roll  Take-Up  is  considerably  less  on  several  classes 
of  weaves  than  on  other  looms,  it  would  be  well  to 
write  us  before  ordering  new  reeds. 
Pickers  must  be  of  short  pattern  not  projecting  above 
shuttle  box. 

We  furnish  sample  sets  of  strapping  and  pickers  without 

extra  charge. 
On  Side  Cam  looms  send  us  copy  of  Chain  Draft. 
When  Wanted? 

If  more  than  one  kind  of  Looms  are  ordered,  please  state 

which  are  wanted  first? 
By  what  lines  shall  we  ship? 


352 


CONTENTS. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 

BY  PAGE  HEADINGS. 


PAGE. 

Introductory   8-11 

History   12-22 

Statistics   23-41 

Cotton   42-60 

Cotton  Bale  Shears   61 

Preparatory  Processes   62 

Belt  Hole  Guards   63-64 

Oil  Cans   65 

Carding   66-73 

Spinning  (Rules  and  Tables)   74-98 

Humidity   99-103 

Spinning   104-115 

Numbering  Yarn    116-122 

Twist  Tables   123-129 

Weaving  (Rules  and  Tables)   130-133 

Cloth  Construction  Tables   140-141 

Cloth  Construction   142-151 

Cloth  Structure   152-163 

Multiplication  Tables   164-166 

Fractions   167-168 

Spindles   169-187 

Separators   188-189 

Rings   190-193 

Lifting  Rod  Cleaners   194-195 

Lever  Screws   196 

Band  Scales   1^97 

Banding  Machine   198-200 

Metal  Bushed  Bobbins   201-202 

Traveler  Magazines   203-204 

Yarn-Testing  Machine   205-206 

Spooling   207-229 

Warping    230-264 

Slashing   265-267 

Chain  Dyeing   268-271 

Twisting   272-300 

Reeling   301-304 

Weaving   305-341 

Sample  Specifications   342-351 


INDEX.  353 

INDEX. 

PAGE. 

Balling  Machines.  (See  Warpers.) 

Banding  Machines   198-200 

Band  Tension  Scales   197 

Belt  Hole  Guards   63-64 

Bobbins    80,  321 

Metal  Bushed   201-202 

Carding   65-73 

Chain  Dyeing   268-271 

Chain  Warping.    (See  Warping.) 
Cotton 

Cotton  buying  rules,  etc.    46-56 

Gray  Goods  Contract   57-60 

Historical   42-45 

Opening  and  Picking   62 

Cotton  Bale  Shears   61 

Dimensions  of 

Chain  Warper  Creels   246 

Reels   ;   304 

Spinning  Frames   97 

Spoolers   228 

Twisters    300 

Warper  Creels   246 

Historical   12-22 

hopedale 

Location   10-11 

Tenements    26-28 

Humidity   99-103 

Inventions.  (See  Patents) 

Lever  Screws   196 

Lifting  Rod  Cleaners    77,  194-195 

Looms    305-341 

Bobbins    321 

Feelers   313-314 

Filling  Batteries   306-308 

Let-Offs     318-319 

Repairs    324 

Shuttles   322-324 

Speeds    325 

Take-Ups   315-317 

Top  Harness  Motions    320 

Warp  Stop-Motions   309-312 


354 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Oil-Cans   65-66 

Patents  18,  22,  169,  190,  200,  201,  203,  205,  208,  265,  305, 

306,  320 

Physics   25 

Reels    301-304 

Production    302-303 

Rings   76,  190-193 

Rules 

Carders   68-69 

Spinners   90-91,  110-113 

Twisters    290-292 

Warpers   245,  247-251,  262 

Weavers   90,  131-133,  142-149,  150-163 

Separators   76,  188-189 

Shuttles.  (See  Looms) 

Slasher-Combs   265-267 

Specifications  for 

Balling  Machines   343 

Looms     347 

Reels    346 

Spoolers   344 

Twisters   345 

Warpers   342 

Speed  Counters  (For  Spindles)   196 

Spindles    77 

Production  of   88-91 

Types  of   169-187 

Spinning  Frames   74-82 

Spindle  Power   82-88 

Spoolers   207-228 

Bobbin-Holders    212,  220-221 

Knot  Trimmers   229 

Spindles    211-213,  226 

Thread  Guides   214-216 

Tables 

Breaking  weights  of  yarns   109 

Card  Clothing   67 

Cloth  Construction   156-163 

Cloth  Production    138-139 

Cloth  Weight   134-137,  141 

Chain  Warp  Constants   263 

Cotton  Crops   39-41 

Cotton  Goods,  Exports   38 

Cotton  Mills,  Capital  Invested,  Products,  Etc.,  29-33 
Dimensions  of  Circles   114 


INDEX.  355 

PAGE. 

Fractions   167-168 

Holidays  :   23-25 

Humidity    101-103 

Immigrants   34-36 

Looms,  Number   37 

Long  Measure    114 

Loom  Speeds   325 

Multiplication   164-166 

Numbering  Roving   70-71 

Numbering  Yarns    115-122 

Print  Cloth  Statistics   40 

Reel  production   303 

Spindles,  Number   37 

Spinning  Production   92-96 

Spooler  Production    227 

Twist   123-129 

Twist  of  Roving   72-73 

Twister  Allowance  for  Stops   295 

Twister  Gears  for  Twisters   288-289,  291-293 

Twister  Production   296-299 

Travelers,  Numbers  and  Weight   98 

Warper  Clock  Gears   264 

Warper  Production   249 

Temples   336-341 

Traveler  Magazines   203-204 

Twisters   272-300 

Production    294 

Rings    277-278 

Spindles   275-276,  280,  287 

Stop-Motions    279 

Water  Pans   282 

Warpers   230-264 

Ball  Warpers   256-264 

Chain  Warpers    252-255 

Clocks  and  Registers   236-237,  257 

Creels   246 

Creel  Steps   233 

Drop  Wires   232 

Production   247 

Reeds  and  Combs   235 

Weaving   130 

Yarn   104-109 

Yarn  Testing  Machines   205-206 


MEMORANDA. 


MEMORANDA.  ^^57 


MEMORANDA, 


MEMORANDA, 


MEMORANDA. 


LIBRARY 

II 

\ 

r 

^  3125  00013  9606 

